Daid

Yes and no. Yes, that can happen, and then you get a ridge, but with a lower printing temperature that gets better. However, if you also print an infill or more then 1 outline, the printerhead moves from the outside line to the inside, the point where this happens you also get a sort of ridge/dent.

awesome prints. Sadly, the joris trick only works on hollow parts, like cups and vases. I haven't found any other way to make sure you never have a ridge.

Ug, monday morning ;-) I see signs of under-extrusion. Also, you could check the "steps per E" calibration. This isn't working very well in RC2, but should work now in RC3.

It might be a problem with the unsigned drivers for the Arduino Mega 2560. Maybe this page will give some insights: http://arduino.cc/en/Guide/troubleshooting#toc1 (The mentioned inf file is also included in the RepG34 installation location)Or, if that gives an error because the driver is not signed, this might help: http://www.raymond.cc/blog/loading-unsi ... 4-bit-x64/

"Cura" is an alternative to RepG, made by different people. However, mentioning it here and now is not that useful, because both Cura and RepG34 use exactly the same driver installation procedure. Which version of windows are you using? 32bit or 64bit is important in this case. Do you have administrator rights on the machine you are using? Also, if you plug in the Ultimaker, do you get a popup that it could not find the driver?

PrintRun which comes with Cura has more control options and can do manual extrusion. Also, if you select "enable experimental machine profiles" in RepG34 then you can selected "Experimental Marlin/Sprinter" from the machine selection, and then it should work with the Cura firmware. As for you extruder problems, most likely cause is that the bowden tube is creeping up, causing a gap between the tube and the peek, filament will fill up the gap, and cause the plug.

The IKEA photo wasn't mine. So I can only guess at the function of the knob. But manual X adjustment sounds logical. (If you look at some more details, you'll see it's a Rev1 machine) And my Ultimaker-IKEA bag is yellow... From the dual extrusion front:

Companion cube! I've got tons of these printed already, most of them with a fine top. I don't see any indication of over-extruding, and all indications of over-extruding. Maybe your tension knob is not tight enough or too tight? (this is pretty important, and hard to get right in the beginning, but after a while you get a feeling for the correct tension)

It could also be that your small timing belt from the motor to the axes is lose and jumps over the pulley. Make sure this belt is tight by loosening the screws of the motor a bit, push the motor down, and screw it really tight.

It's quite possible to reposition GCode. (The multiply plugin does just that in SF). I just opted for less complexity right now, especially because settings can differ between objects. But I see how GCode re-use could make slicing a lot faster. Step 1: Make it work. Step 2: Make it work better. Step 3: Make it faster. Currently at step 2.

Did you check the small belt tension?

Yes, you can! In all versions, the M109 is not added if you set the temperature to 0 in Cura. In RC3 you can add "tags" in the start/end code. If the {print_temperature} tag is found in the start code, then Cura won't add the M109 because it assumes you set the temperature in the start code yourself. The {print_temperature} tag is replaced with the configured temperature in Cura. (If you do not want the M92, then you can set the steps-per-e to 0 in the preferences, this will remove that line)

If you want to give SF a shot, you might want to try Cura: https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki Which is a user friendly interface around the Skeinforge engine. Defaults are good for the Ultimaker, so it should require no tweaking on the software side, giving you the ability to focus on hardware problems.

Quick note, before I go to bed, I tried 10mm retraction for dual extrusion, still caused oozing. So dwindle is the way to go.

What software are you using? Because it sounds like you are "over extruding"

It doesn't have buttons for it yet, but if you save a project, and open it in a text editor, then you can edit mirror settings. (Not that user friendly, I know)

It's IKEA's idea of sponsoring 3D printing: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_Car ... ag_by_IKEA However, I found it a bit hard to pack up my Ultimaker in the bag, and a bit difficult to carry around if you do not balance the weight right.

I've never used the PID autotune M303 command. But there has been a small change in it after that firmware release. You can build a newer version with: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ (defaults are the same as for the Cura firmware, except that the Cura firmware also has the UltiController enabled) Random FYI: RC2 and RC3 use the same firmware (I didn't want to risk updating it after a lot of testing, especially because that's what broke the RC2 first run wizard)

You can build a new firmware with: http://daid.eu/~daid/marlin_build/ Download the zip and run the upload.bat However, for ReplicatorG to work, you need to enter the correct baudrate before building, else it will not connect. For RepG34 I think the correct baudrate is 115200. All other settings have proper defaults, except that you also need to enable the UltiController at the bottom.

I just released Cura RC3 on https://github.com/daid/Cura/wiki Changes include (but are not limited to): * Toolbar button icons (looks a lot better then the old buttons) * Scale to maximum size button * Project planner - Which allows you to print multiple objects after each other on different printer bed locations. * Various fixed in the First Run Wizard, hopefully solving most issues with it. * Move buttons in printer interface * Saving start/end code in profile instead of seperate files. Sharing your profile ini file will now include all settings including start/end code. * Support for multiple extruders (Dual, triple or even quad extrusion) * Faster GCode preview * Support for math expressions in settings. For example, a layer height of "0.1*3/10" is a valid setting * X/Y/Z indicators on 3D preview * Information about print time and filament usage after slicing * GCode syntax checking in start/end GCode editor Have fun!

The garbage on LCD is fixed in the latest Marlin firmware. It's caused by the SDCard insertion sometimes glitching the LCD clock line. But it should not impact the functionality. It's a shame that it doesn't work for you out of the box. Did you contact Ultimaker support? Because I advice to do so if you order something from them and it does not work.

I usually just go for round holes and then I'll see what happens. There might be a bit of drooping, but nothing a bit of brute force cannot solve afterwards. Can the handle carry the whole Ultimaker with some PLA? And does it make it easier to carry then the Ikea Ultimaker carrying bag?

40W for the cartridge heater, 20W-ish for each stepper, the rest is for all the other stuff With 4 steppers, that 120W. That leaves little room with the stock 120W. Explains why you see the LEDs dim when the motors are powered and the heater is PWMed.

I usually have the cube gears around with me to show people. But I usually show them before I tell them that I printed them or that I have a 3D printer. When people ask "where did you get this?" I tell them "I downloaded it". Confuses the hell out of them, very funny the whole concept of downloading a physical thing is lost to most people. It does start the nice discussion about sharing designs with everyone. Which is good. (And, yes, I would download a car!)

The LEDs don't use a lot of power, heaters and motors use up most of the power. The stock Ultimaker power supply is 120W btw, my guess of 150W was wrong.