Daid

You could sacrifice speed for RAM. As you could just keep indexes and sort those (reading the filename every time you need it). But that wouldn't improve the experience, as it would be slow. So it's best to keep it at "it depends on the color of the left wing of a butterfly at the other end of the universe... :wacko: "

Just double checking, isn't the fan blowing on the head? This can also cause huge temperature swings. Even if the airflow is just going over the tip.

No. And no. First off, for all "top layer" suggestions. I do not know if something is the top layer. The code simply has no clue about top layers at all. It has top-skin layers, but these are multiple stacked on each other. And combined with the bottom layers. Next, I'm not a fan of messing with peoples model topology. Suddenly people are not getting what they are seeing, and that's always confusing them (see the sometimes filled holes due to wrong normals as fine example) EDIT: Finally, a proper solution for those scars would be to only follow the infill direction or edge of the model. But that's quite a bit more work to implement then what it's doing now.

Voltage rating does not matter as long as it's lower then 19V (it's current regulated) Current value, you want to be around 1.2A This would work fine: http://www.watterott.com/en/Stepper-Motor-Unipolar/Bipolar-200-Steps/Rev-42x48mm-4V-1200mA

Bit of super-glue to secure the bearing till you printed a replacement might do the trick. How old is this Ultimaker? I've never seen the happening before, and I've seen just about every problem you can imagine.

Z - 15? That's below the bed...

In all honesty, most likely some of the parts you want to buy are critical parts for our production line. (I'm guessing the display, electronics, head-parts) Anyhow, you can control the printer fine with a normal RAMPs board with basic marlin on it. You won't have the fancy OLED display. So you should look at it more as an UM-Origonal from the control side. The Ultimaker2Marlin fork is mostly a fork for the OLED display and menus on there. (The changes for the motor current levels have actually been merged into main Marlin already)

seconds and mm^3

It's also a mystery to me. As I'm 110% sure that no machines get shipped with scratches or dents. I'm sure Sander will respond here on Monday to see if something is up with your ticket. Also make sure the reply didn't end up in a spam folder somewhere. As we recently doubled in support staff which really cut on our response time. As for the scratches and dent, don't think it influences the technical working of the machine. It doesn't make it prettier, and I'm sure the support people will assist in fixing it in the best way possible. But I also know there are higher priority cases where machines actually are broken due to transport. (I do not officially represent the small group of several tens of Ultimaker people in Geldermalsen)

One at a time can be slower if you have small prints, due to minimal layer time. Note that this feature is not new, it's been possible from version... 12.08 I think. But it came more accessible in 13.06. It's one of the features I personally really like, and I think Cura is the only software that does this right now. There are a whole bunch of constrains for one-at-a-time, as explained above already.

That's magical. As there is no real difference between 14.06 and 14.07 except for firmware and some minor things.

Cura ships with a firmware for a different heated bed by default. We're getting closer to releasing our heated-bed upgrade, so the firmware for heated-beds in Cura is prepared for that. You should skip the firmware update in Cura if you have a home-build heated bed.

You have, if you turn the machine off before inserting new material ;-)

What happens, is that people that move their printers a lot, they use the change-material to remove the material. But then half-way shut off the machine, so they can transport the machine without a roll attached. However, they have to go trough the whole procedure again to load the material again. So I made a quick option which skips the first half of the change material. (Also added an option to reduce the motor current in the motion settings. Not really useful for daily use, but could be useful if you replace the extruder stepper motor with something else)

Can you try: "Expert -> switch to full settings" "File -> Save profile" (Store it somewhere, so we can look at it later to see what was wrong) "File -> Reset profile to default" Try what it says after that. It that fixes it, then some setting in your profile must have been messed up.

In all honesty, we will do our very best. But, if you are 100% sure that you need dual-extrusion in the very near future, you might want to look at other options. But I have no idea who really has 100% working dual-extrusion. As I've heard and seen bad things from the Rep2X. The Builder from 3dprinter4u.nl has dual-extrusion with 1 nozzle, which is cool, but might be problematic if you want to do 2 materials. Other then that, good people with nice machines. Leapfrog, don't even touch that one. The Orcabot-dual is actually pretty cool. Maybe that's the one you might want to look at. It's using 2 independent moving heads to do dual-extrusion. Cube-X puts you at the mercy of their software and expensive cartridges. The Ultimaker Origonal has a dual-extrusion kit upgrade option. Which also isn't perfect, but does a pretty good job. (Other then that, there are a whole bunch of Replicator clone machines which are pretty much Rep2X machines without the Makerbot name on it. So they have the same issues)

Yes, simons fixes are finally in there now.

Yes, just pushed that to address some UM2 firmware issue that I didn't fix properly. (Or, "I should have listened to Simon")

Just an FYI, on google+ a lot of 3D printing related stuff is going on.

If "type A" is checked, and the hole shows up then. Then the normals of your model are actually wrong which is why the hole goes missing.

I forgot, but we black-painted some areas first, because the reflective surfaces didn't give accurate measurements. Then I calibrated the epsilon on a black-painted heater-cartridge. I'm no longer directly involved in the whole mechanical part (finally) so there is little I can say/do more.

Exactly that. However, even with "turbo" cooling, the internal temperature is still too hot with dual-hotends. (Pretty much put the large blower-fan of the UM-Original electronics on it to test) We have an pretty awesome heat-camera that we borrowed from Daniel, makes razor sharp thermal images at close range, which is awesome to help in this aspect. However, every "quick" fix we tried didn't work. So we are looking at more invasive changes to fix this.

Like said above, we could release a broken product right now. But that's not how we do things. We adjusted the estimate as soon as we found out there was a huge issue with the dual-extrusion setup. I know it sucks. I wished we had all material super printing with a brain interface. But reality is a bitch sometimes.

https://next.youmagine.com/education That's pretty empty for a top header link...

Send you a PM about someone who I think did some research on printing and sterile environments on the UM. He might be able to provide you some extra info.