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LePaul

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Everything posted by LePaul

  1. Well it looks like the guys at Dream 3D heard us talking about pillowing....
  2. I've had good luck printing two objects at a time and was tempted to do more....but the margin of error is always there, should something go wrong, you've wasted a lot of material. Can it be done? Yes. Should you? With great caution
  3. I agree with @Labern too. I've found that many are drawn to the speed of printing and want the object done faster. However the real strength of the Ulitmaker printers are the resolution. Like @cloakfiend points out, every filament, even if the same brand/blend, make require some tweaking. I keep slowing my prints down and the added detail really looks good. These printers are no where near plug-and-play yet...so you'll wind up experimenting a little bit!
  4. Ok, how do you make a github issue?
  5. Well true but it can do resolutions higher than FDM printers. It depends on how much the user is willing to spend for it. It's cheaper than Shapeways!
  6. Not a bad idea, where do I add more passes for the skirt again? Just having the extruder prime more material made a huge difference. I just need to scale it back a little. The default setting wasn't enough
  7. Well I put my 3D Printer files on a network share drive (Seagate GoFlex) and I have everything sorted out nicely, which makes it several directories deep on the SD card. Most of the time, the pop up from below shows blank upon saving the file so I am growing tired of hunting for it @nallath I haven't checked the beta yet, but can this be a check box type of thing? Save to root by default instead of imitating the system file path? It isn't very natural to clear out that field
  8. Well 15mm was way more than I needed....but it shot out a nice pile of melted filament and the first layer went on perfect! I'll have to tinker on how much is just right...I may take it back to 10 mm and see how that is....either way, its a step in the right direction! Don't fear the GCode!
  9. I must be missing something super easy..... I want the Gcode to go to the too of my SD Card, not carrying over the file path on my computer. How do I get that to work?
  10. That's interesting. And you have the Original + (heated bed)
  11. I pre heat to 225 and then start the print. What messes things up is when the print begins, the bed autohomes, squishing the filament to the print head...and it seems to take a few seconds for the flow to resume.
  12. I've looked around the current release and don't see how to do that for the skirt....at least not thru the GUI. But looking at the Start/End-GCode I see this... G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock Would it be advisable to change E3 to E5 and see if that helps? Or greater?
  13. 1) I frequently get Error 500 when I tried to edit, then Post Reply to a posting with my iPhone 6. 2) In the User Profile, please insert a STATE or Province field. I'm not sure how it works in The Netherlands but elsewhere, we are geography aligned as City/State/Country
  14. As the subject says, it seems like I have to crank on the extruder wheel to get some additional flow at the beginning of a print. I usually start (PLA) at a temp of 215-220, while i get a good amount of flow coming out of the nozzle. But when the very start of the print, when the print head moves from the autohome, that's where it lacks the material flowing out. By the first pass, material is coming out at a normal rate and all is well. Its usually a bigger hassle on brings I do not wish to use brim or raft. I really don't want to mess with GCODE and wondered if there is a setting in Cura (latest, non-Beta) to extrude a bit extra at start?
  15. I think you are correct. Upon the second item just having finished printing, it has fewer pillowing artifacts....but they are there. Adding to the fill density did help some. But I like your idea of 1.2 mm for the top/bottom layers
  16. Fan was running. Still doing it tho not as bad... For the second item i brought the temp down to 200 C We'll see how that goes. @SandervG my fan is failing, any chance it can replaced? I don't have a lot of print time on this printer. Its running but sounds like a bad bearing, especially when it spools up after the first layer
  17. We'll try this tonight...note i start at 225 then lower it way down to 210 once i have a good flow going....i seem to have poor material flow at the very start of a print.
  18. I'm glad I kept the PDF of the manual
  19. Yes makes sense to try one item first. Like, as you suggest, the thicker layer The fan shroud is the plastic one (folded up type)
  20. False. I got burned. I bought my Ultimaker kit and the Ultimaker 2 came out 10 days later. I had inquired about buying an assembled model and opted to save the money with a kit. Well, kits are not refundable. And no...no discount was offered if I wanted to buy the Ultimaker 2. I was very frustrated with the company for many months. I was told, using Apple as an example, that they do not release the dates of when a new model comes out. Well, Apple always releases new updates on their annual meeting! Bad example. So...be very careful what you say.
  21. I'd be curious what your process is from end of print to paint.
  22. The fan shroud is the stock one from Ultimaker. (September 2013 kit)
  23. Upon reading the link....a few thoughts... I have fill at 20%. Maybe I should try 25%? The top thickness is the default value (0.6). Would 0.8 be advisable? I'm 90% sure the fan is working properly....and since the entire print isn't pillowing, I suspect options 1 and 2 would fix it. (Yes?)
  24. Well the fan was running when I left it overnight to print, so I think the fan isn't the problem. (Although the bearing has been noisy at start...a tap quiets the noisy bearing down. )
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