LePaul

http://printedsolid.com/collections/colorfabb

One thing I learned quickly with filament...and many things in life...you get what you pay for. The Ultimaker filaments have been good but I have to say, I really like the ColorFabb PLA/PHA. I'm pretty picky about what I spend money on with my 3D printing and in the past two weeks, I've bought four rolls of ColorFabb from PrintedSolid (USA Retailer). It shows up in 3 days and the four or five things I have printed over the past week look great. I tried MatterHackers PLA Pro filament and it works fine too. I've only done two small prints with it and no issues. Again, we may all be saying this in vain...but don't buy cheap filament. And if you post about a massive clog or jams by doing so....be prepared for Told You So's

I keep seeing issues with heated bed upgrades (like this) which gives me great pause! But...the heated build plate is tempting because right now, I am prying like crazy to get prints off the blue tape

I've noticed that if you scroll to the very bottom of a page, the icon on the lower right stays at 'down/scroll to bottom' If you scroll up one click, you then get the icon to scroll to top of page. Its a little touchy.

When did the rafts "improve"....about what version? Ivan, I have that same TIE fighter model but haven't printed it yet. How did it look when done?

0.01 ? Is that possible?

I wish there was a "How to properly place objects on the print bed" tutorial out there. I run into this a lot with various parts and struggle to find the best orientation to use.

MeshMixer is really difficult to move an object around in. I found just getting the object level on the bed a real pain, not to mention the support materials and sizing. As I said elsewhere, I really hope Cura keeps improving the support functions for complex prints.

I still use the original blog tutorial from time to time but find MeshMixer is extremely difficult to pan around in and move objects in. I struggle with just getting the object to show on the build plate. I've been hoping CURA would make some gains on what MeshMixer can do

Automagically...clever!

I'm really curious how your test works with 15.04.02 On my Ultimaker Original, 200-210 is the sweet spot for me, especially with ColorFabb PLA/PHA. I start out at 215 to get a good flow, then back the temp down to 210, then low 200s. Good luck with your next test.

Well I have the default nozzle from the UMO kit and usually print at 0.1 mm I have seen some print .06 or even .04 with Ultimaker 2's. I wasn't sure if the .04 was possible with the UMO

Some of this may be lost in translation, as he is advising to give users what they want even if you do not find it useful I'd value his feedback given his software development background. There seems to be a lot of resistance to the ideas suggested from the developers. I don't think that is your intention, but the way some of the replies come across, it reads that way.

0.06? Lower? Thanks!

Up top, click on your name, then Settings...the notifications are in there

I've been following along....so after the Failsafe, does he need to update the firmware again, and it works this time? I ask because I plan on doing the heated bed upgrade soon

I wouldn't think so...I know the laptops I have had in the past, if not configured to stay awake (not hibernate), one of the items it will power off is the USB ports. Which would be a disaster for a print!

Hi, So when you power on the printer, nothing happens? Is the power plug firmly inserted into the power brick? Was this a kit you assembled or purchased assembled? Double check the connections going to the print head, those wires shouldn't pop out but it could happen....also, under the printer, is everything plugged into the electronics board? More details please! If it was working but was idled for some time, it should just work. BUT...use some sewing machine oil (you can get it at Sears, WalMart, etc) and lightly lubricate the rods. I left my machine idle for a few months and when I tried to do some printing, it was VERY noisy. Cleaning and oiling the rods fixed this.

What he said... I'd also be curious what layer thickness you are trying to print with. (0.1? 0.2?) While every PLA is different, I start out warmer (210-215) for the first layer and then back off the temperature to 200 or so. While I like fast prints, I have learned that slower (35-40) produces better work results. I've used Ultimaker brand PLA, ColorFabb PHA/PLA (favorite!) and MatterHackers Pro Series PLA with good results.

If you haven't already, put in a support ticket or I can tag @SandervG so he is aware of your issue

Fan didn't spin?

If you have a 9 volt battery and apply power to the fan plug (hopefully you have some thin wire to attach to each)....does it spin?

When I was reading your initial post, my mind recalled The Palette kickstarter project. I think we have a thread in here about it, we were curious how it would bond between filaments and maintain the uniform diameter (2.85+/-) to print well.

Agree And on the list of printers, the trailing Ultimaker graphic should be removed...how many times do we need to see Ultimaker?

What an interesting and detailed write up