LePaul

@gr5 I wonder if poking the heat up a few ticks would help? The small parts do great on these settings but the bigger ones....not so much. As to the belts, well, they don't twang like a guitar string but don't appear loose. My UMO is noisy so I haven't detected anything new or problematic. I just did 18 prints in ColorFabb black in varying sizes that all came out well.

Thank you for your reply I tried another two prints last night. This is a new spool of @ColorFabb PHA/PLA Standard White. The spool is moving freely, I've rotated it 2 or 3 times so the spool is slightly unwound for easier extruding. Ulimaker Original 200 C 34 mm/sec Bottom/Top thickness 1.2 Fill Density 24% I used my caliper to measure the diameter and got a reading of 2.84 , 2.85 and 2.9 along a 6 inch stretch of filament. I stuck to 2.85 The flat piece went well. The bigger piece is showing some overhang troubles. In Cura 15.04.2 I have support "Touching Build Plate" but apparently it didn't feel it needed any. The smaller piece did need supports and those printed. I know others have had troubles with white filaments and since I have a large project in white coming up (BB-8 droid), I really want to sort out the right settings! Here's some pictures

Yeah I do too, i wish they had it as a footer. I have to go to the top of the screen via the Up arrow (top) icon then hit Forum to view the categories.

I wonder why the top came out the way it did. Even with 1.2mm top/bottom shell.

That's certainly an option...I'm just surprised it did that.

.. Just like I said!

What are the firmware changes for the UMO and UMO+ from one version to the next?

If you click on a notification, it isn't bringing you to the latest response. On a few notifications, the threads were multi-page in length. The link in the notification was bringing me to the middle of the thread (say page 3 of 5)

Everyone mentions white is tricky to get good results in. My first print with ColorFabb PLA/PHA Standard White was good. Now this second print has a few things that make me wonder what else to tweak... Note the top. I have the top/bottom thickness at 1.2mm I printed on my UMO using the following settings: Layer height 0.1 Printing Temp 200C Speed: 35 mm/sec Fill Density: 25% No tangles...spool moves freely. One thing I may have found...my caliper battery died so I couldn't measure the filament, so I left it at 2.85 I am really curious if the filament is +/- .05 And if that would make a difference?

Those Stratasys machines are impressive (I would've printed in black, this way dirt doesnt show on it)

Bob...we're learning along with you!

I'd love to see photos of these upgrades

I understand your point. I really got great results with ColorFabb's Dutch Orange and part of my thought about staying with it. Then each part could be filled, sanded and painted for this Star Wars 7 Blaster Project. But I saw others had good results just printing in the colors needed (white, black & silver). Fingers crossed these prints continue to come out nicely!

I got good results (don't you think?)...so....so far, so good

@mendells , how fast are you printing? As @gr5 suggests, for better detail, lower temp and slower speed seems to work consistently for me. I printed at 0.1 mm layers and layer lines don't look awful to me

@SanderVg Morning....no, I didn't know you enabled it again by default I recall having to do so under My Settings. Glad its back so we can get more people into the forums!

What temp did you wind up going with? I'm intrigued how one color flows more freely at a certain temp than another. But since nothing in 3D printing is plug and play, each material does require some tweaks. Here's the first of many white pieces I need to print. I really need an Ultimaker 2 Extended to print the barrel piece, which is taller than my UMO. (No, don't want to chop it down into two pieces!) Finished product will be this...

@the_schire I just started printing the ColorFabb White PHA/PLA It melts quick at 220, which is what i used to get it flowing after removing the ColorFabb Black (I let the print head cool to 100C and then yanked the old filament out) I noticed how quickly it flows/oozes and changed the temp way down to 205...I may go lower after I see how the next few layers look. EDIT: Wow this stuff goes on nice once you nail down the temp....temp is now 202 and going to let this 4 hour print run over night with the time lapse camera running

I can't find that either....I see the gcode plug-ins....but not how to edit the Start and End ones

I used this to illuminate my Ultimaker Original Thingiverse Link LED Light bars Here's my setup

Can you put the block over a candle and heat the block up? Then slowly wiggle that probe out?

I agree I had to go toggle it back on to get them since they changed the forum

I do adjust it in the Ulticontroller. In Cura I set it for 215 and then, once I have it loaded in the printer and the print has started, I go into the settings and go into the nozzle temp and bring it down to 205. Like I said, I like to let the first layer go and then bring it down. Every printer is a little different so if you are leery of going back so far, try 210...see how it looks....if good, a few ticks more. (Kind of funny to see Cat and Dog pictures in a thread. Rowr! Hiss! Woof Woof!)

Maybe a set screw was loose or a belt tooth wasn't hitting the pulley correctly?

I've had a long conversation for over a year with one of the FormLabs guys. The biggest problem for me is the size....for small stuff, its outstanding. Another thing I would advise is to read their forums. See the experiences from end users. I know there's quite a learning curve for larger models, such that they mention hollowing out parts and allowing an opening for resin to get out while printing. The improvements are very impressive and the laser woes should be much less now that it is an enclosed setup. I'm really curious how well the wiper-blade setup works in the resin pool. Another thing to keep in mind is the post-processing. There are some really good reads on their forum about using different chemicals to process the object. And of course, another thing is the cost of resin versus that of filament. Truth be told, I would love to have one! But for my immediate needs, an Ultimaker 2 Extended is going to be my next purchase