LePaul

As @ultiarjan points out, slower is better. All my Black Colorfabb printing at 0.1 has started at 215 for a good starting flow, then ticked down to 205. I'm using 35 mm/sec and while it does take longer, the results are well worth it. I printed an iPhone tripod adapter last night, using the same material but 0.2 layers. I upped the speed to 45 mm/sec and 215C and got a great result. I have one more small piece to print in ColorFabb black...then load the ColorFabb white PLA/PHA

Well the thing is....we have these printers to print hi-res...and the Kinect stuff I messed with did a lousy job (which would have lead to a lousy print)...if you guys find something or have better results, do tell!

You know I have an old iPhone 4 that would be perfect for living its life doing time lapse photos and using a system like that

Welcome aboard! Share your projects, tips and suggestions!

What nallath said...it appears to be a "dry well" in terms of using the Kinect for scanning objects well.

Yeah I had a similar problem on my iPhone 6 looking at the website. I was trying to show a friend the website click the Products then Software and trying to show the Cura download link and what version is available. That was all crammed into a single line and mashed together, making it heard to read.

Let's see if @SanderVg can chime in with some advice too Video of what is going on will help. If you upload it to YouTube, pasting the link in will play in the post.

The way I read it, and I could be getting the wrong impression, was you felt ColorFabb made gimmickly filaments. Which seemed to mean everything they make. I've been raving about their PHA/PLA stuff for weeks. I have had a great experience with this stuff after not so much luck with Ultimaker Blue PLA and MatterHacker Pro series. Now if you are narrowing down your opinion to the Fill-series stuff, I would agree those are a much more complicated filament to work with. I've ready many threads here about the Carbon Fil stuff, literally killing the print nozzles. The wood, bronze and copper filaments seem to have varying levels of success.

Have you cleaned the feeder recently? Some have mentioned doing so helps.

That's great! I frequently get asked to do talks about robotics and 3D printing to school kids. I print my full-sized R2-D2 with me and answer a lot of questions about how I built it, how it moves, makes noises and the basics. The advanced kids like seeing the 3D printed parts that are inside of R2-D2, such as the UNO Arduino controller mounts and other mounts/ductwork I have printed to help place the electronics safely inside the aluminum frame. I would really like to do more on the 3D printing side of it, since hauling an Ultimaker printer around is a lot less work than a 200 pound aluminum robot!

The way you bash them, I would expect them to bill you

@DoctorH , great comment on humidity. I've observed that in some of my prints with my UMO as well. Now that we are heading into fall and the basement isn't muggy anymore, my prints of late have been great. I need to replace my dehumidifier to maintain the low humidity more consistently.

That was a very good post, I liked the filament spool holder he had come up with and the feed system mod was interesting too.

Thanks for asking. I still have that love note from a few months ago stuck in there

I had troubles with the Bowden tube on both ends with my Ultimaker Original. This Extruder Clip made a huge difference on the end that goes to the extruder. Mine was very noisy, popping up and down but never popping off. The end that attaches to the print head would frequently pop off. It turned out that the collet was the problem, the metal pieces were not "digging" into the Bowden tube well enough to hold it in place. Here's the part as listed on fbrc8's site. Hope that helps with part of your questions

I was hoping by the weekend, when I have some free time to do the upgrade.

How long does that coating last? Right now, I have too much adhesion with the acrylic bed and blue painter's tape. I wipe it down with rubbing alcohol (otherwise things won't stick)...and after a print is done, getting the print off the build plate is a struggle. I have to remove the build plate and gently pry a scrapper under the print and tug/pry away. This rips the tape and requires a re-apply of tape, wipe with alcohol, etc. Heated kit arrives Monday. Can't wait to try

I appreciate your reply. I ordered the Heated Bed Friday morning from MakerShed and when I checked today, it now lists the item as back-ordered. (I am hoping I got the last one...or not waiting for weeks for one to ship...!) I've become a ColorFabb Snob....I love their filaments!

I finally ordered my Heated Bed Upgrade and have a few questions about having a heated bed... 1) What temperature to use for most prints? I use ColorFabb PLA/PHA and see they have a few suggestions, but I also wanted to hear from the community on what has worked for them.

I wondered how much of the 3D printing changes we would like to see might run into patent issues. Stratasys has been around for a long time and patented up a lot of stuff while the technology was little known to most. I completely agree with the screen comments. Bigger, more details, more customization too. Big build volume, please.

The feeler gauge is a great idea, I have a Harbor Freight nearby. I'll try that too

Well you helped convince me I needed it...just placed the order for the heated bed upgrade. Is there a brand PVA glue people can suggest? (USA sources please)

I'd like to see pictures of these prints to better evaluate what looks to be going wrong. I have been printing with ColurFabb Black PLA/PHA and getting very good results. I have a UMO, not the + you have I start my print at 220 and then bring it down to 210 once I have the brim printed/flowing good. I need print it down to 200 and find that 35-40 mm/sec yields very good results.

I just use wire snips, the same i use to clip the legs of LEDs for the electronics projects I work on/solder

I would really like to see what happens if you try different filaments and tweak some settings the newer Cura offers. With the ColorFabb bronzefill and others, I wonder what you could do with those?