gr5

Another possible cause is glue stick - if you put it down too thick it's like the glass is higher there and you get hills of overextrusion where the nozzle is plowing through the fields of plastic. Again, none of this should be visible when the part is completely printed.

Note that as soon as it prints the second layer this "deterioration" will be hidden. The bottom side should look much better. It's probably caused by slight overextrusion which is probably caused by the glass not 100% perfectly flat and also possibly due to active leveling being ever-so-slightly off. Or maybe not quite enough points are chosen for active leveling. It could also be caused by oils (e.g. from fingers) on the glass. Or dust on the glass. It's important to clean the glass about once per month whether you use the printer a lot or none at all. Dust accumulates slowly over several weeks. So I recommend carefully memorizing how the glass faces up/down, then removing it and washing it with soap and water and if it doesn't look clean use a metal spatula or plastic scrubber. then when it seems perfectly clean, wash it again with glass cleaner to get the final bit of finger oils off the glass. Dry with rag or paper towels.

By the way, the number of features on printrun/prontrface or repetier puts Cura to shame - Ultimaker doesn't sell printers where you can print through the USB so this feature is not as well fleshed out. Cura is mainly a slicer.

So Windows hides file extensions by default. There should be a setting somewhere in explorer to make them visible so you can change the extension as well. the extension is just the last 3 or 4 characters after the final "." in the filename. It's very annoying (to me) that Windows hides this by default. I often forget this because I only have to set thins once in explorer and then the computer remembers "forever". Or until I buy a new windows computer (haven't done this in maybe 8 years? I'm mostly linux now). Anyway, I didn't realize you didn't have SD card. So yeah once you rename the extension properly to gcode you should be (I think?) able to load it in cura and print it. If not there's much better than cura for printing through USB cable. I really love prontrface/printrun. Or repetier. Both of those are free.

In upper right of cura, select "Marketplace". Make sure "plugins" is selected and look under "E" for "Export". Install this plugin: "Export HTML Cura Settings". Restart cura. Now there is a new feature in the "file" menu?

Some versions of Marlin will let you continue a failed print. Anyway, typically you can keep the header part where it homes the print head and then delete everything up until the layer where you want it to start. The one caveat is the extruder. The extruder value is the accumulated extruder position. So an hour into the print the position might be a few meters, say it was 2 meters it would be E2000 in the gcode. If you scroll quickly through the gcode file you can see the E value keeps increasing very slowly throughout the file. So there is a simple trick: G92. This resets any axis position to be where it is now. So like this: G92 E2000 G1 E2001 The first line above tells the extruder "hey - I know you think you are at E0 but you are really at E2000 - don't extrude 2 meters of filament please." The second line tells the extruder to move to 2001mm which would extrude one mm of filament. So just fine the first E value (or even better the final E value deleted) and set the extruder there with the G92 command. Make sure you keep the header commands that home the 3 axes and turn on the heater and such. AND FINALLY TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION. Just save it as a gcode file and print it directly. Cura should not be involved in any of this.

Just above all the settings is a search box. If you enter something in there like "thin" it will show you all settings with that word in the name (and also description maybe). Even if the setting is "invisible".

Okay so I think maybe the top of your prints aren't horizontal. Does that sound correct? Is the bottom of each print also tilted? Maybe you rotated these parts in cura but rotated them by 89 degrees instead of 90 degrees? Or maybe you rotated them ever so slightly in CAD? I guess if the part just isn't squared off flat (like most cylinders and box shapes) then you'll have to make the layers thinner so the lines are less prominent.

This doesn't look familiar. Most prints shouldn't have lines like this on the top layer. I'm not sure what I'm seeing. Please post 3 things: 1) Just pick one of these 4 prints - perhaps the round one is the simplest that shows the problem? Show what it looks like in PREPARE mode. 2) Show us a screenshot also of this zoomed in more. Make sure it's really the top layer. 3) Save your project by doing "file" "save..." and posting the project file here. That will include your stl and your printer settings and your cura settings.

Nice. For other people following along, there is a 3rd way to change your printer settings and that is to edit the json file directly and restart cura: The files are in a "definitions" folder *somewhere* on your computer (no idea how to find this folder on a PC - maybe in c:/program files/ultimaker/?? Here are 10 of the files out of about 106 different printer configuration files. Find your printer. geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ geo@geo-Wild-Dog-Pro:~/cura/share/cura/resources/definitions$ grep -R -i material_diameter * 101Hero.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, 3dator.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 }, abax_pri3.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_pri5.def.json: "material_diameter": { abax_titan.def.json: "material_diameter": { anycubic_i3_mega.def.json: "material_diameter": bfb.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.7 }, bq_hephestos_2.def.json: "material_diameter": { "default_value": 1.75 },

But did you try the above suggestion? That does the same thing as the printer settings plugin.

In cura if you do "helpl" "Show Configuration Folder" and then you delete that folder tree and restart cura it will recreate a fresh copy of default profiles in there and Cura won't crash anymore. The bad thing about this is that you lose any profiles you created. There are 2 schools of thought with saving your settings. One is to save your settings in "profiles". The other is to save them in "project files" (thirdly some people use paper - not me). I do the later as it seems more dependable and I can load very old project files into much newer versions of Cura and it always works fine for me. This has the added benefit that if someone points to a 5 year old print and says "what were the settings?", I have it. Saved forever. Including orientation of STL and scale of part (if I scaled it up or down) and so on.

If they disappear, how did you manage to choose the generic profile?

Sorry, it's not called "advanced". It's called "custom". If you are in the start up default of Cura there is no way to search through all the settings.

No that's fine. I didn't notice any holes in your preview so after reading your original posting I had assumed there were no holes in preview. If I had seen them in the preview I wouldn't have suggested you print it.

Can you show a photo of the print please with the holes? You want the fan at about half power so I'd play with the menu options and listen to the fan noise and drop it until it is about half as loud and use that as your fan setting. Also what temperature are you printing the PETG? What temp do you usually print PLA?

@SailMad Did you check all the flow settings? There's flow settings for wall, infill, initial layer, and quite a few more. I see that the very last bit didn't change at all (0.186mm either way) but 3% decrease (instead of 20% decrease) means that 3/20 or about 15% of your print *did* experience less flow. Maybe it was the outer shell only? Or initial layer only?

So I just tested the import feature and couldn't get it to work. Not sure why. It showed nothing changed. I think you might also have to have the correct profile selected. It is SO MUCH EASIER (in my opinion) to do it the other way - just open the gcode file in a text editor and go to the bottom. At first it looks like gibberish but read everything there slowly and you realize it's all your settings (the profile chosen and the overrides).

After importing, make sure you are in advanced mode, and to the right where it says "profile" there is a box that says something like "0.1 fine" or many other possibilities. On the right side of that box is a drop down arrow (and a star?). The star only appears if there are any changes in settings versus the default profile that you have selected. If the star appears then click on it and check all the tabs (e.g. "global settings" tab and "extruder 1" tab and look for italics or other indication that you changed a value (e.g. if it's different in the "current" column versus the "profile" column.

Typically when it finishes one "line" or "trace" I think it usually moves to the nearest line to do next. Because lines finish far from where they start (typically), the closest line to do next might be a bad choice.

screenshot please. You can use the horizontal slider to make it obvious which section it is skipping. Keep in mind that minimizing the travels is a complicated business. Trying every combination of which lines to do in which order to see which is the fastest will usually take more computing cycles than would be possible to do in less than a minute even if you had the computing power of every computer on the planet. Even if every atom in the universe was as powerful as your computer, it would probably take longer than the age of the universe. This is common. What seems simple actually is a difficult problem. This problem actually has a name: "the travelling salesman problem" and there are many algorithms that come close to the best possible solution but none of them guarantee the best solution and as you saw yourself, some solutions seem pretty obviously *not* the fastest solution. But humans are better at some tasks than computers. This algorithm has to run 1000 times if you have 1000 layers sliced and people get upset if it takes an hour to slice their part so a compromise was made. I agree that a better algorithm could be chosen but this is not easy to do.

Note that you can delete that whole cura tree and the next time you run cura it will recreate it.

There absolutely must be a file somewhere that describes your printer. So in cura do "help" "show configuration folder". You looked in the wrong place. Here they are on linux: /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/definition_changes/Creality+Ender-3_settings.inst.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/definition_changes/creality_ender3_extruder_0+%232_settings.inst.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/extruders/creality_ender3_extruder_0+%232.extruder.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/machine_instances/Creality+Ender-3.global.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/quality_changes/creality_ender3_draft_%233.inst.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/quality_changes/creality_ender3_extruder_0_%232_draft_%233.inst.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/user/Creality+Ender-3_user.inst.cfg /home/geo/.local/share/cura/master/user/creality_ender3_extruder_0+%232_user.inst.cfg

Interesting. In general, the colder the nozzle temp, the more viscous, the less stringing. More importantly, printing slower helps as there is lower nozzle pressure when printing slower. But these are trade offs. Improving one thing may hurt another (namely speed).

By the way, sometimes someone will post a second time the word "bump" in their topic. Please don't do this until you've waited 24 hours. I think this is a reasonable thing to do as a new group of people might notice your post. It's also very helpful to have a more descriptive topic title. You can't edit it, but I can so you can message me or another moderator to edit the topic title to what might be an improvement. I suspect that the reason you got no replies was that the people who noticed your post didn't know the answer to your question.