gr5

All 3 of my um2go's have a heated bed, and olsson block. The Olsson block lets you change nozzles. 2 of my um2gos have the Meduza and iRoberti combination feeder upgrade (as it is almost free and I'm cheap). My 3rd um2go has the original black feeder. I sell heated beds for um2go but don't normally ship to Europe (but will make an exception for you if you want). I'd prefer you buy um2go heated beds from 3dsolex if they have any left (I believe he stopped buying them so not many left).

That's a bad sign. Your steps/mm is probably off by exactly 2X. The most common steppers are either 100 or 200 steps per rotation. You may have the 100 steps per rotation type of stepper. If the above issue (1/2 way down bowden) is the *only* issue then that is difficult to fix. But if your steps are off by 2X then that is easy to fix in tinkerMarlin as you can set the steps/mm for each axis separately in the menus.

Note that you can reverse servo direction in firmware as well. If that's your goal. I have 3 um2go printers and they all have the tinkerGnome version of the um2 software: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases To clarify: reversing direction in the default UM2go firmware requires changing data in Resources.h and rebuilding the firmware. Doing it in tinkerMarlin you can do it easily in the menu right on the printer.

You don't need a crimping tool. I can pop out these wires and slide them back in within seconds. You need a small screwdriver or needle - a jewelers screwdriver - flat head - works well. You push down on the metal thing in the hole and then you can slide the metal part out from the plastic part. Then you can just slide it into a different hole until it snaps in.

I've never seen this type of flood. It looks to me like the core is leaking. I'd get a new core. Normally there are 2 possible causes of head floods but this is a third cause I think: 1) Door magnets aren't working well and door flops open during print (seems to be pretty rare) 2) part comes loose from bed part way through print and the part is wider than tall. Then the part is slid around the glass bed like a hockey puck and the nozzle keeps extruding into the "puck".

There's really not much difference between 4.7.0 and 4.7.1. 4.7.0 makes you click on something at startup the very first time you run cura. A security warning. You've already done that so now the versions are the same for you. I'm still on 4.0.0 and it works great. I have encountered zero bugs. Anyway, to get help, please be more specific. Does it fail when you launch Cura or when you install? What error does it get? What behavior? I'm positive that Cura was tested on several Macs before release so the software engineers are going to need a little more information.

UM2? @Namrevoj use a tool to push down on the outer ring. Called a collet. Try maybe some needle nose pliers. You have to push down firmly on that collet while lifting out the bowden. If you still have trouble, loosen the 4 long screws in the print head about 2 full turns and try again.

Could it simply be you have a leveling issue where the nozzle is too close to the print bed and it takes 5 layers to finally come to a steady state?

I think cura will consider it still a bridge even with support (if it the support was generated by Cura and not in your CAD). Did you just try it to see what happens? It's easy to do a quick test in cura and then look at the result in layer view.

If you use the printer normally, through menus and such there is no difference in developer mode. You are fine. But if you ssh into the printer and start editing files then all bets are off. As far as sendgcode breaking something - it's almost impossible. But I suppose if you are clever enough you *might* be able to break something. I can't think of anything though. The printer has temp limits to keep you from going too hot and the steppers are not strong enough to break anything. A bigger issue for some people - if your printer is out on the internet then developer mode is very dangerous as hackers can connect. But these days, nothing is exposed directly on the internet without paying a lot of extra money or creating holes in your router. The router of your home, office, school should keep your printer from having a public IP address. Even if you purposely started deleting operating system files at random until it would not longer boot, there is an unbricking procedure that reloads all the firmware (fresh version) back into the printer. It's involved though - you have to remove the bottom of the printer and you have to be careful about the high voltages in there (in other words unplug the power while the cover is off). You also have to obtain a microSD card and use special software to load the boot software onto the microSD card. But as far as sendgcode is concerned - it's relatively safe.

If you read above - I think all you have to do is disable the 2 features mentioned above? Something like "automatically keep models apart" and "drop models to bed" and then just load the two STL files. No need to merge and ungroup. I've never had to do the merge/ungroup thing but it has been a while since I did a two color.

I had to read your post a few times to understand so I think I'll summarize your request: The current "wipe" feature is very limited. On Ultimaker printers, the head doesn't move up and down so it's easy to mount a wipe brush at a fixed Z that spans one whole side of the printer. On many other printers, including delta, the nozzle moves up and down, not the bed. So you need a Z position. PLEASE IMPROVE WIPE TO ADD: X,Y,Z POSITION (not just X)

So you have a hardware problem. One of the axes is moving. This can be a stepper losing steps (if you fight the stepper hard enough it will suddenly slip to a new position) or it could be a loose pulley. Usually it's a loose pulley. First important thing is to realize if the problem is X or Y axis. If your bed moves then it's usually that axis (Y axis). So then tighten the hell out of the pulley on that stepper. When I say "tighten pulley" I mean tighten the setscrew that is on the pulley. Very very tight. So tight you are afraid you will break something. The tool should twist a bit. Also make sure the belt isn't so loose that it can skip a tooth. Ironically, belts too tight can cause higher friction which can cause a stepper to lose steps. And having the current set too low can caused missed steps. But most printers arrive with the stepper drivers set up properly. Most likely it's a loose pulley.

Short answer is yes. Are you familiar with ssh? Put your printer into "developer" mode in the menus - probably under "settings"? This will reboot it and turn on ssh daemon. It will also show the printer ip address. Then you can ssh into the printer. If you want to look at the firmware (it's all uncompiled and visible - mostly python) log into root/ultimaker but for what you want, log into ultimaker/ultimaker (second word is password). that second account starts a nice linux utility automatically. now you can send gcodes with "sendgcode". For example: sendgcode T0 <-- select left core. T1 is right core sendgcode G92 E0 <-- this resets E position to tell that the extruder is at position zero. sendgcode G1 E10 <-- extrude 10mm You can also set steps/mm but that will get overridden. Once you know how much extra or less to extrude you can set this value in the "flow" fields in cura. e.g. set flow to 105%. if you google using the "site:" feature you can learn A LOT MORE about this: "site:ultimaker.com sendgcode" or maybe "site:ultimaker.com ultimaker 3 moving extruder" (UM3 is almost identical firmware and exact same gcodes and sendgcode utility - a lot more people "hack" the UM3 than the S5 or S3 so there is more discussion) It's possible that the extruders will not move when cold. If so there is a gcode for that: sendgcode M302 <-- allow extruder to move when nozzle is cold

ER1`5 is heater error (for people not familiar). It almost certainly means the heater in the core isn't getting any power. At all. For at least 30 seconds. When you put the core in the printer, after it's in - give the clear part an extra push. Sometimes it seems like the core is in and all is good but when you push on it you get an extra click. The cable that goes into the print head connects to a connector. I've seen where the cable pulls so hard that the connector has stretched and the pins in that connector are stretched such that they don't make good contact. This is really hard to believe as a failure mechanism, but I've seen the photos. So I'd be tempted to change out that board - I think it's pretty cheap - not sure. Alternatively it could be the solid state switch that turns the heat on and off - not the red PCB but the white one. I don't think that's the problem because those parts tend to fail 100% on or 100% off. Not intermittently. So if the heater heats up even a little then it's probably not the solid state switches on there. It could be the cable itself. That's pretty rare I think. Did you uncover the bottom of the printer and check where the cable connects to the white board? It's called "heater0" or "heater1" or something like that. There's 3 heaters for bed, core1 and core2. Intermittent errors are the hardest to fix. If it consistently failed (never heat up at all) then I could find the fault in minutes with an ohm meter.

@Warriorclub - a sketch or screenshot of what you are describing would be helpful. I read it twice and not sure what you mean. You can add support wherever you want or remove it wherever you want in cura (video above). You can also add supports in CAD especially if you are the one designing the part. There are also a huge amount of bridging features that are in an alternate version of Cura but I hesitate to tell you about those without understanding your question better.

You don't have an STL file? That's strange. What kind of file do you have?

Actually I'm really not sure how it works but cura copies a lot of these types of files to a user area as well and may only look there. Something like %appdata%/cura. In cura do "help" "show config folder" and it pops up two folders for me.

I don't know the answer but the first thing I thought of when you said you've been printing PETG and switching to PLA is "the teflon part". I don't even know if you have teflon in your hot end but when you print a lot of higher temp materials and switch to PLA one often finds that the teflon part got soft and deformed and causes lots of problems (typically underextrusion but also possibly variable extrusion: stick/slip). Cura sometimes prints slower on the lower layers and with less fan and the lower layers are closer to the heated bed so of course one would assume it's related to one of those 3 things. Fan failure would explain everything - some fans won't spin at all until you get to 100% fan which would be a few mm up from the bottom. So check that your fan spins even at 50% fan setting. PETG doesn't need as much fan.

18 million faces? in 800mb? yeah that's too big. Just glancing at the part in the photo above I'd say 10,000 faces should be enough so you can decimate by 1000X. Or just try getting it down to 200,000 faces (100X smaller file). Here's an easy, free way to reduce number of faces/triangles: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

Are you changing these in a file? Or in the Cura GUI? I don't know much about creality but the cr6 looks like the cr10 and there are definitely cr10 machine's built into cura. Maybe start with cr10? So you might want to edit the json file with your printer settings. The printer definition files are in a "definitions" folder *somewhere* on your computer (no idea how to find this folder on a PC - maybe in c:/program files/ultimaker/?? They have the extention ".json". Search for files that have "CR" in the name and end with ".json" and that are in a "definitions" folder. And finally this might be horrible advice as I've never tried this but you can edit all the settings through a plugin: Click "marketplace" in upper right of cura, make sure you are on "plugins", scroll down and alphabetically among the "P"s is "printer settings" plugin. If you edit any json files then make sure to restart cura to get the latest machine settings loaded into cura.

Note that 3dsolex sells also 0.15mm and 0.1mm nozzles for S3 (and all other UM printers and some other manufacturers).

The red area isn't anything "bad" - it's just showing areas of the part facing downwards. I'm more worried about the "manifold" part. If there is a problem with that you will see it in "preview" mode, not "prepare" mode. Anyway, back to making the model flat. You have a few options: 1) Rotate as flat as possible and then cut off a little 2) use support or raft 3) Fix the model so the bottom is flat So #1 above: rotate as flat as you possible can, looking from many angles. Get it within 1 degree. Then go to "preferences" "configure cura" and uncheck "automatically drop models to the build plate". Remember to check this again after you are done with this part. Now select the part and on the left side use the top tool (move) and adjust the Z value to be a negative value to sink the part below the surface until it is cut off flat. Then print it. Realize that the part will now be a slightly different shape. If you are lucky you can slice off less than 0.1mm which will basically not change the part significantly.

I can see by your screenshot that you have windows. It would be helpful if you posted the cura log file. I think if you do "help" "show configuration folder" it should show possibly 2 folders and one of them should have cura.log in it. Anyway, as a workaround you can click the little arrow next to the button and save the gcode file to your harddrive instead and then drag it to the removable drive.

With small parts like this the speed is limited by cooling factors as the quality will get real bad if you print this too much faster. You could print 2 at once and it will print probably just as fast as printing one and you will probably get better quality at the same time. Anyway to answer your question you need to play with this setting: Minimum Layer Time If you cut that in half it will potentially double your print speed. The color shown in cura ignores accel and jerk. It's the "requested speed" that is inserted into gcode. The printer itself decides what speed to actually print and can often/usually reach the requested speed within the limitations of jerk and accel.