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Oh. Well when I opened it, it didn't load any settings for me which is strange - it just loaded the model itself. As though you did "file export". Anyway I think I saw the problem. Did you look at your machine settings yet?

You should have no trouble keeping them on the bed. I mean I usually recommend a diameter 1/5 of height so that the part isn't likely to fall over but you can exceed that ratio. here I see 20mm diameter and 300mm tall which is a bit of 1:10 ratio. 1) Put them on the center of the bed. 2) Are these PLA? If so, make sure bed is 60C (should be) and use glue and thin&spread the glue with a wet tissue. This makes it more dilute and more even (thinner is better for getting parts to stick well). 3) Use brim (I see you are in photo) 4) MOST IMPORTANT is to squish. You want that first layer squished really well. Here's a video I made that shows what the first layer should look like (how squished you want it). If parts are coming loose you want more squish:

You can't use 1.75mm filament with Ultimaker printers. The filament sensor is ignored the first layer (or 2?). It's not turning the sensor. You can disable the sensor in the menus. But you shouldn't be using 1.75mm filament with this printer. First of all 140% is not enough. 2.85^2/1.75^2 is 2.65 so you should be using 265% for the flow. Doing those 2 things, changing flow to 265% (easier to change in cura, not on display) and turning off filament sensor will allow you to print but you will get bad quality prints and you will have to print slow. But worst, the melted filament will be sliding upwards in the core and can get up to the cool section of the core and cool down and cause a clog in your core and you will have to disassemble the core to unjam it or buy a new one). So now you have to do a 3rd thing: print very slow. Try 20mm/sec. Or even 10mm/sec. Or even 5mm/sec. You will know you are going too fast when you ruin your core. I have a youtube video that shows how to take it apart without destroying it. I guess the speed you were doing on your first layer is a good speed as you didn't wreck it yet. You have a very expensive printer. Filament is cheap in comparison. If you don't have any printers that take 1.75mm filament just throw out the spool or donate to someone who has such a printer. People often complain "I can't get this special filament I need in 3mm". Everytime they say that to me I show them where they can buy the filament they need. One part of the trouble is sometimes it's called "3mm" and sometimes "2.85mm". Don't search based on diameter - search for what you need (e.g. PC/ABS) and *then* try to find 3mm version in the same store. printedSolid.com is good source for filament in USA.

Take the glass off. Remember which side is up. Clean it well with liquid soap or detergent and water and some kind of scraper like a putty knife. Dry it and examine it. If it's perfect, then do a final cleaning with glass cleaner (meant for cleaning windows). Do not touch the surface with your greasy fingers (by now they should have interacted a lot with soap and the oils should be gone anyway). Put the glass back on the printer and start heating it to 60C. You may be able to print directly on the glass now. However... Now ideally you want elmers wood glue. Or any wood glue. Mix that 1 part with 10 to 20 parts water (it's not an exact thing). I like to use a jar with a lid so I can put the lid on and shake it up well. Use a paint brush to paint this onto the glass. Wait until it dries (that's one reason to preheat to 60C). Should take about 2 minutes. Alternatively you can use fragrance free hair spray to coat the glass (spray with glass outside printer! if you do this). Alternatively you can use glue stick but sparingly. And then use wet tissue to remove most of it and to spread it very thin. I have a video showing these 3 techniques which I think helps a lot to get an idea of how much to use. 7:54 in the video:

Alternatively, your machine could be unusual and it's supposed to have 0,0 in the center. In that case I would need to see your project file.

So I went ahead and did a quick look at your gcode file. It is for a delta printer. You have the part centered on 0,0. But you don't have a delta printer. I'm not familiar with your printer but I'm guessing the head went to the left or front edge and stopped working there? So you need to find the machine settings. They are not on the right side. They are on the left. At the top go to "PREPARE" tab then in upper left area click on your machine and it pops up a menu and choose "manage printers", then "machine settings". In there is a checkbox where you can have 0,0 be in the center of the machine (delta printers) or lower left corner (everything else as far as I know). Make it so that 0,0 is in the lower left. I think. Unless your printer is unusual.

Those are not project files. Please do "File" "Save...". Not other file options. I think maybe you did export?

Oh wait - I can see that you *do* have the black block on the rod. Instead it is twisting on the rod. So there are 2 rods that go through the print head and attach to the 4 sliding blocks. Are they properly snapped into the sliding blocks? I guess by now it may be irrelevant as it is worn?

Wow! Something is seriously wrong. The sliding block (the black block) should go on a long rod that keeps the sliding block from moving so much. Is the rod missing? Look at the other 4 blocks. They should all have a brass bearing that goes through them and a rod that goes through that.

So the information above has changed. There is now a way to do a firmware recovery yourself. Initially it was deemed too dangerous (deadly voltages under the printer) but now the consumer can do it himself if they follow specific instructions. Contact your reseller. I got the same error as above but firmware recovery did not fix it. "U-Boot" is similar to "BIOS" (e.g. "AMIBIOS"). The UM3, S3, S5 have a tiny cell-phone-like linux computer in them (dual core!) that when powered off starts with the U-Boot which then immediately boots from the Flash memory (Flash memory is the same as a solid state hard drive). Anyway the U-Boot searches the partitions in flash for one with a boot file. But in your case the boot partition is corrupted because it couldn't find it. On my computer the partition was so badly corrupted it needed reformatting and even a "firmware recovery" couldn't handle it. In fact all 3 partitions on my S5 were corrupted. One day the printer was printing fine, the next day, I had this. Anyway, if you get this error showing U-Boot, then you probably need a new linux board from your reseller.

@Peter_Oxford - I was speaking to your claim above. I was explaining that it does make sense. At least for me. If you look at the settings I mention, all of them apply to all materials. I don’t usually mess with temperature and that’s pretty much the only setting that changes for materials.

Oh! I'm glad you figured it out then!

It would also help if you posted a project file. Do "File" "Save...". I think only for the pimount file. Sorry to ask for so much.

@Aldo who wrote that plugin might have some ideas.

If the computer doesn't see the printer here are some debugging tips: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/4700-how-to-update-um2-firmware/?do=findComment&comment=60018

@WesleyFreitas - sorry this is the english section of the forum. Portuguese only allowed over here: https://community.ultimaker.com/forum/129-other-languages/ So Cura is made by Ultimaker for free. sidewinder is a competitor. But if they create a profile (or if you do) and submit it to the cura team they will include it in a future release of Cura. Maybe ask the sidewinder people to do this for you?

Good. The solution is above.

My most common change is to disable acel and jerk, set all speeds to 40mm/sec, use skirt, set initial horiz expansion to -0.3. If I change materials or nozzle size I want those mods to carry over.

Did you read the post just above yours? this problem is very common - most likely you installed the wrong firmware (UM2 for a UM2+ or the other way around or you modified your feeder for example by installing a bondtech feeder).

You may not have noticed the noise change over the years (you may be used to it) but on most "old" printers there is this creaking kind of noise. Like a creaking tree. Of course, only when the axis is moving. Kind of like lots of very fast "clicks" or "ticks". If you look very carefully at the belt teeth, they are no longer square.

I know but I'm too lazy to go find it and open it when I can just look at someone else's question and help them instead. If you had posted the code here I probably would have spotted the syntax error in 1/10 the time it would take me to go find the file. Also I'm a very fast typist so asking you to post the file is easier than finding it myself, lol (I'm always forgetting where the files are stored). Also you would be helping other people who are reading this thread (like tinkergnome) save a few seconds of their time as well.

To make things more complicated - cura when used with Ultimakers doesn't just have one profile for each material. Typically it will have at least one for each nozzle aka "core". Plus one for each intent (e.g. fine, draft). So if there are 3 intents and 4 nozzle sizes you would have typically 12 (3X4) profiles for one material (e.g. PLA). There are many hundreds of profiles just for the S5 alone and most of those duplicated for the other Ultimaker printers.

Whether you choose "keep" or "discard", nothing is saved to disk. No profiles on disk are modified. Yes I hope Cura becomes easier to understand in this regard. I have 2 things for you: 1) When you change to another profile (because you opened one or because you changed material, etc) you get the keep or discard popup. The idea is you have a profile plus on top of it some settings modifications (that aren't saved and won't be saved permanently). Each modification you may have noticed had a little circle/arrow (like Undo icon). The question is asking if you want to just open the new profile and DISCARD all the unsaved modifications you had made on top of the old profile. Or if you want to carry forward (KEEP) the changes to the new profile. For example if the old profile had temp 200 and you had changed it to 205 and the new profile has temp 201, KEEP means: after it loads the new profile it changes the temp to 205 (in memory only - nothing saved to disk). Discard would have the new temp at 201 and again nothing saved to disk. 2) Don't use profiles in Cura - there is another trick just as good. Profiles work pretty well, but when you upgrade cura sometimes not so well. What works much better (at least for me since Cura 2.X came out) is that whenever you slice, also do "File" "Save..." and save the *project*. This saves what profile you are working on (it saves a new copy I think) and what settings were changed on top of it (with those settings having the little "redo" icon). In addition it saves machine settings, STL files, transformations to the STL files, and everything else. So if you had 2 STL files and each was printed 9 times on the bed it will save all that information, where they were located and so on. "projects" just works better for me (and many others) - it seems to be more dependable, less buggy. If I want to print something new I can load any old project (not profile) that uses the same material and settings as I'm printing next and then delete the part(s) in on the bed and drag on the new STL file(s).

Prusa has their own slicer. I'd stick with that. It's really quite good and has some features that Cura doesn't. I think they did a good job of the default settings. Ultimaker seems to have fallen into a trap where they are afraid to change the existing profiles because people expect them to never change. I understand this sentiment. Prusa will probably fall into the same trap. This means that there are new tricks to get better results but they are all turned off by default.

Okay so I gave you miminal info as I wasn't sure if you wanted to go this route. I warned you that even for an experienced programmer this can take a few hours (not that you have to change a single line of code - but the compiler setup is very involved - lots of software to install and configure). Please follow that link to get the source code from ultimaker on GIT. Actually even better use tinkergnome's source code. Also on git: https://github.com/tinkergnome/ Okay, so there are 2 files that a complete noob/non programmer should be able to edit. One is "Configuration.h". I strongly recommend you glance at that and read the comments. It gives you an idea of the possibilites you can do easily - for example change the upper limit on temperature. But you will only need to edit pins.h. Find that file. Read it. Try to find the actual pin used for the second extruder and for the Y axis. Swap them. Make a comment of what you did as it's really really easy to get confused and swap the wrong pins or lose track of which version swaps the pins and which doesn't. Everything else you need to know is in that link I already posted that says how to build the firmware for UM2. Note that tinkergnomes build process (which is what I used) makes several at once if I remember right. There's the UM2 version, UM2+, um2go, um2ext, um2ext+, um2go with heated bed. I think that's it. when I last did a build I seem to remember it built several of those all at once. Anyway, please give it a shot. When you get stuck post in that other thread that talks about how to build Marlin for UM2.