gr5

https://www.3dprintergear.com.au/filaments/tpu/

Okay this is a print I did recently. I wasn't trying to get a perfect bottom. This is typical for me. This was 0.8mm and 0.3mm layers but not sure about first layer. Probably also 0.3mm. This is typical of my parts and I usually use 0.4mm nozzle and default first layer. I really think if I go 0.1mm bottom layer it will be much better. Especially if I level tight and make it squish hard.

Here is a decent first layer (part flipped over). I think one can do much better. I haven't really tried to eliminate these lines but personally, typically they are much better than this. I suspect that it helps to use a thinner first layer. Default is 0.3mm in most cura profiles but 0.1mm works just as well or better.

Okay - I think you are trying to fix the bottom layer with ironing instead of leveling properly. Some points: 1) If you were to print just the first layer and stop the print and cut the part in half so you can see the cross section of each trace - you would notice that the filament is flat where it hits the bed and flat where it hit the nozzle but the sides are rounded. This can leave a very very tiny gap of air running along the bottom of your part and make lines. Ironing won't help because that air needs to esacape somehow. 2) More likely you aren't leveling properly and need to move your nozzle just a tiny bit closer to your bed. here are some photos of perfect bottom layer squish amounts:

Well I could lecture about how Marlin works for 100 hours so I'm not going to explain much here. You'll have to be more specific. Are you hoping to do something simple like add a menu entry and have it change one parameter (like adjust Z position while printing). Or something hard like rewrite the path planner? You should probably explain your goal to start with.

@ChrisYu - do not get 1.75mm filament! Particularly flexible filament. Even a stiff filament like PLA won't work very well in an S5 if it's only 1.75mm in diameter. The hole is 3.1mm in diameter in the core and the hot filament will just come back upwards instead of going out through the nozzle (well some will go out the nozzle and some will go upwards). There are MANY other sellers of TPU filaments. Ninjaflex, Ultimaker, and many more. What country are you in? It's extremely rare for a filament manufacturer to make only 1.75mm but some sellers only sell one size. 90% of filament sellers sell both sizes. Sometimes it's called "3mm" but it's actually 2.85 or 2.9mm.

@srkinard - it might be helpful to the developers if you post the cura log file here.

The newest windows operating system on a computer that I own in my house is windows 7. I have 2 such computers. They are not my most-used computers but they are used almost every day. My wife has a "work laptop" that has some newer version (probably 10? or is it called windows X? I don't even care to know). XP is the newest version of windows that I really liked. I have it on some virtual boxes only. For security reasons they get wiped back to reference each time I restart the virtual box so if one gets infected with something it goes back to it's previous state quickly. It's unlikely for the XP machines to get infected since they are behind 2 firewalls and never run a web browser. Anyway, @sledjunk - to your issue. The answer is almost always in the log file. In the cura log file. I'm not sure where that is on windows, sorry. Perhaps %appdata%/cura/?

Could you please make a 5 second video demonstrating the problem? You can push the print head around by hand. You should get in touch with your reseller. The company that sold you the printer. Tell them you are good with glue. Try to find a solution that doesn't involve shipping the whole printer as the shipping services can bend your entire printer into a parallelogram so anytime you ship a printer it is at great risk. But if you insist, then shipping the whole printer is usually an option.

Language of this topic? No. There is a spanish section of the forum. Post there for spanish questions/discussion. Language of tinkerMarlin? Maybe! @tinkergnome?

I have no idea what you mean. Please show screen shots of the part in PREPARE view and PREVIEW view.

PETG is a wonderful material. I find that CPE, NGen, PETG are all very similar and they are the second most easy material to print (PLA is the easiest). This is partly because of their low softening temperature (which is higher than PLA). But also other characteristics. It's a little more flexible than PLA which makes it a very tough material. As far as I can tell, the only differences you need to worry about from PLA to PETG are: nozzle temp, bed temp, and fan. Except I use 100% fan I believe (whatever is in the CPE profile). Nozzle temp and bed temp you can get from the manufacturer. I raised the bed temp a little bit to get it above the softening temp for my particular spools of filament so that it would stay on the bed better. But the default profile for CPE seems to work fine for PETG. I also slowed things down. I have small prints (smaller than a fist) and so I tend to print all speeds at 35mm/sec. I also have a lot of printers (7) so I'm usually not in a rush.

Look for a CPE profile - I think it's the same material. Or close enough. I've been printing PETG on my S5 and using the CPE profile and it works great. Also I suspect nGen is a similar material so you could use an nGen profile but I don't think there is one.

Ultimaker published some "engineering" settings for S3 and S5. Here is a summary of what you do to get your parts as close to tolerance as possible: Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 35-40 (all speeds, except travel) Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3 Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclusive Combing Mode = off Outer before Inner Walls = Checked

In Cura, nozzle size isn't important. Ignore it. Instead set the parameters called "line width". There are several of them. By default they are sort of controlled by nozzle size. But nozzle size doesn't matter - "line width" matters. Set the line widths (all of them) to match your actual nozzle size. You can go a bit smaller - 10% smaller is fine (.36 line width for a .4 nozzle).

Maybe you issue is underextrusion. Please post a photo of your parts without ironing. Underextrusion will cause gaps. Underextrusion should be fixed some other way. Maybe you are printing too cold or too fast or your printer is defective in some way (bad feeder? bad hot end?).

Is the bottom layer also a top layer? If not then I don't see how that will help. I guess you need to show a photo. Maybe you haven't leveled nicely and your bottom layer is underextruded?

ABS is damn tricky to print. One of many reasons that it is not a popular material (weaker layer bonding, clogs easily, smells horrible, corners warp off print surface). I recommend not using ABS as there are better materials. Anyway, worry about temperature. Could it be that the second nozzle is heating up to the wrong temperature? You want around 240-245C for ABS. Another possibility is that it is heating to 240C and staying there while printing on the left nozzle. 240C for 10 minutes will bake ABS into a gummy clog that can not be removed easily! It can only be removed by manual labor and tools. Even 2 minutes at 250C is sometimes enough to get a clog started. You never want the ABS nozzle at printing temperatures unless it is actually printing and you want to do thicker layers with ABS (none of this 0.06mm layer crap for ABS) such that the material doesn't stay in the hot nozzle for very long. You can look the gcodes to see what is going on regarding temperature of the right nozzle.

You can't iron the bottom layer without flipping the part over, right? I'm confused. By default, most profiles have combing set to "all". Change "combing mode" to "not in skin" and that should make your bottom layer look much better.

Yes those 4 triangles are probably the problem. They are most likely in your STL. Did you create the STL? If not try opening it up in meshmixer and deleting them.

I'm guessing the mask gets very thin up there. Try checking "print thin walls" or set line width to a smaller value (just to see if that works).

Just tell it to move 10mm and measure how far it moves. Figure out the ratio (actual distance / desired distance) and multiply that ratio by the current steps/mm. In other words if it moves 10% too far than increase steps/mm by 10%. Then repeat but with the longest distance that is reasonable for more accuracy.

It's hard to tell what is going on without sound. It looks like the X axis goes left but never right. Does it make a horrible sound when it homes in the back rear corner? If so, check your limit switch - push the head around and try to hear it hit the X limit switch (on the top panel in the rear left corner. There are 2 screws that you can loosen and adjust it a bit or sometimes you can bend the switch arm. If it does *not* make a horrible noise then for some reason it seems like it only goes left. If you fight the print head with your hand (don't worry - you can't hurt the printer that easily) and you notice the X axis is much weaker then one of the 4 wires is probably open (not working). It could be that one of the 4 wires is broken at some point. Or it could be the stepper driver. It's pretty much never the stepper itself - always the driver.

Anyway, the language that Marlin uses is C++ but mostly it uses C features. C++ has more features (like classes) but Marlin doesn't use a lot of classes. So Marlin is simpler in that way so you could take a course in C. Or maybe it's taught in Kahn acadamy or code.org. There are probably hundreds of courses on C.

Do you truly need to change the logic? Or just some of the configuration files? When you change the printer mechanically, you should normally only have to edit one file: Configuration.h. It should have everything in there and well commented. Very very simple. Like if the steps/mm change from 200 to 180 you just change it from 200 to 180.