gr5

11m^3/sec should be fine with a 0.8mm nozzle. I've printed that fast with a .4mm nozzle (barely) and the 0.8 can do (in theory) 4X faster. I'd try lowering the temp a bit. (190C) I'd look at the layer view carefully to see if the marks are happening at movements. Exactly at movements. Larger nozzles are going to leak more. You can fix this by lower temperatures. Also check your bowden to make sure it doesn't move up or down on either end.

I forgot I had this: As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. Note that your "print speed" may be 40mm/sec but it may be printing infill at 80mm/sec so CHECK ALL SPEEDS. 2) Line Width larger than nozzle. In cura 3.X search in settings for all line widths. If any of them are larger than the nozzle diameter this can cause underextrusion. There are 8 of these in cura 3.2.1. 3) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 4) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 5) Bad core. Try a different core. It could be clogged, or something more complex like the temp sensor in the core. 5a) clogged nozzle - the number one most suspected problem of course. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) is the cure - from the menu do a few cold pulls. The result should be filament that is the exact shape of the interior of the nozzle including the tiny passage to the tip of the nozzle. If it doesn't look like that you need to pull at a colder temperature. You can do it manually instead of through the menu if it's not working right but learn through the menu initially. 95C is roughly the correct "cold" temperature for PLA. Higher temps for other filaments. Simpler cold pull (3dsolex cores only - doesn't work on ultimaker cores because you can't remove the nozzle): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 5b) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 6) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. You want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. You usually want the tension in the center. If the white marker isn't in the center, make sure the adjustment screw actually moves the marker. If not then someone put the feeder back together wrong. 7) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 😎 Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 8b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the wedgebot (link below) helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 9) Extruder mis calibrated. Maybe you changed equipment or a wire fell off. Try commanding the filament to move exactly 100mm and then measureing with a ruler that it moved 100mm within 10% accuracy. If not adjust the steps/mm (this is done by editing a json file on the UM3). 10) Z axis steps/mm. it's easier than you might think to double or half the Z axis movement as there is a jumper on the circuit board that can be added or removed. If the Z axis is moving 2X you will get 50% underextrusion. Your parts will also be 2X as tall. 11) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. Similar to 8b above - use the wedgebot to feel how much friction there is in the bowden. 12) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably insert filament that has the pattern from the feeder and fight the movement by applying 2kg force on both ends at the same time and then seeing how much harder you have to push it on top of 1kg force. UM2 feeders can push with 5kg force. UM3 can push quite a bit more. 5kg is plenty. 13) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. This shouldn't be a problem on the UM3 which has very good quality control but try a different core. 14) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 15) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip. The solution from Ultimaker for the um2 is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. This doesn't seem to be a problem on UM3 even though it's the exact same circuitry but they lowered the current in the firmware. But it's worth considering if air temp is 30C or hotter. It would probably happen only after printing for a while (air heats up slowly under the printer). 16) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the door of the head. You can hear it come on when cores get above 40C. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 17) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm core and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 18) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3). 19) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 20) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 21) Filament tangle - the end of the filament can get tucked under a loop on the spool and this tangle can propagate from then forever to the end of the spool until you fix it. It will cause many many jam ups and slow then halt extrusion. Repeatedly. The fix is to remove the filament from the printer, unroll a few meters and respool and put back on the printer. Never let go of the end of the filament spool until it's in the bowden.

Is it oldish? What are the hours on the cores (you can check the cores in the menu to see how many printing hours are on the printer and how many on the inserted cores)? First check the feeder. Using the lever put the filament only half way down the bowden, go to "move material" and move the filament a bit, then pull down on the filament below the feeder with a LOT of force. The feeder should be able to hold about 10 pounds or 5kg. If it holds less than 5 pounds then that's the problem (the feeder). If that's fine and if the printer is old then consider changing the bowdens. Or if you are doing single filament prints mostly then try the right core slow or swap bowdens. Do a few cold pulls. In the menu there is a "cold pull" procedure. Do at least 3 in a row. If you have a needle, when the nozzle is > 140C push the needle into the tip of the core to push any clogs up into the middle of the nozzle so it will come out with a cold pull. Also scrape the inside of the nozzle a little to get any caramelized filament off it. Finally, try a different core. Nozzles can get clogged. If you have a 3dsolex core then you can just change out the nozzle.

I have had similar issues that were fixed by using a different version of cura from @burtoogle here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0&lst=

As a programmer (not a cura programmer, not an ultimaker employee) it seems like thousands of times someone found a simple bug but I could not reproduce it. "just check this box". I did. Doesn't do it. "oh you have to raise it less than 1mm". Still doesn't do it. "oh you have to have this model with a curve on the bottom surface". Oh! Now it does it. It's frustrating as a programmer when people think the bug is so simple to find and duplicate yet I know I've tested this exact "issue". It's just that it didn't occur to me to do something a different way. So when the user puts in the extra effort of sending me the exact scenario, then I'm more likely to look at it. In your case that means either doing more testing or simply posting the 3mf file (in cura do "file" "save").

Oh! It might matter how much you raised the model. You only raised it a very small amount. How much? Does it still do it if you raise the model 10mm?

You'd be very surprised! Often the model matters. See if it still does the problem with a cube.

This post above might be enough. Developers would be more likely to look at this if you tried to duplicate this with a simple model (such as a cube or sphere), get the bug to occur and then do "file" "save..." which creates a .3mf file and then post the 3mf file here along with a screen shot of it not slicing. The more work you do, the less work for a developer to be able to understand and duplicate the bug. The next level would be to create your own github account if you don't already use github and post the problem on the cura issues area. Ideally search to see if the bug already is listed there. Probably not but this might be a known bug that is difficult to fix. I'm guessing not but really don't know.

relative extrusion and volumetric are totally different and unrelated. If you look at the gcode you will see mostly commands like this: G1 X123.4556 Y44.212 E233.4 These values are all in mm. Normally the E value, in this case 233.4, is the total length of filament since the start of the print so at this point in the gcode you have printed 233.4mm of filament. Your spool of filament would have 233mm less filament on it at this point in the print In relative extrusion you will never see E values greater than around 2mm. Each line of gcode has an E value for that particular line. Short lines will have small E values and longer printed lines will have larger E values. Does that make sense? Volumetric means that instead of 233.4 meaning 233.4mm of filament has been printed (which is a different volume depending if you have 1.75mm filament or 2.85mm filament) the E value is the volume of filament in cubic mm. In volumetric if E value increases by 1 then it's 1 cubic mm not one linear mm. The actual amount the extruder moves is different based on the filament diameter. It could be that the Ultimaker 2 is the only printer in the world that does volumetric printing. I'm not sure. I've never heard of another printer doing such a thing. I think this idea/concept might be Ultimaker only. I could be wrong. Relative printing is also rare out there although most printer support it I believe. There is a gcode to warn the printer that you will be doing relative printing instead of absolute.

When I have a bug that I don't understand, it helps a LOT to create a model just to test a specific issue. Maybe a 1cm by 1cm square that is only 0.4mm thick and suspended on a post 0.3mm off the print bed so you can get answers quickly to "is it fixed now?"

In your photo the progress bars appear to be infinitely thin. Infinitely thin is the same as air. Am I making sense to you? 1) What cad software are you using? 2) Make sure the progress bars are at least as thick as your nozzle width X 2. Or you can go a bit thinner if in cura you check the box "print thin walls". But cura will never print infinitely thin walls. So make sure your walls have a thickness. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so...

The other thing is that the separation of cores on the UM3 and S5 are different by about... 1/4 inch. So is it possible that you sliced for the UM3 and then printed that file on the S5? In addition to the XY calibration values which I think are in steps of 0.1mm and are very close to zero, there is also the default distance between cores stored somewhere. That plus the calibration value are added together. Maybe the default distance is messed up (did you upgrade firmware recently?). I don't know if this default distance is in Cura or if it is in the firmware of the printer. I can't find it in Cura but it's hard to find settings sometimes if you don't know exactly what they are called. Or it could be in a cura json file.

To clarify, you don't state this anywhere but you are talking about an S5, right? Sounds like the calibration data got corrupted. When you do XY calibration of any given pair of cores, you could write down the values you entered. That way if it loses this again you can just re-enter those values. I seem to remember a way to enter the values without actually doing the calibration print. So for example you might do the calibration print, enter an X and Y offset and then do a print and realize that you need to nudge it another 0.1mm and so it lets you change those values without re-running XY calibration (or it used to allow this anyway).

Well burtoogle above is showing you a screen shot from freecad. And I see a "repair" button so you could try that. Also there's a post above by ashton who has a link to a very very simple to use repair service. Also netfabb has a free repair service online (but you have to create an acocunt).

@Whitespace what kind of printer do you have? Your profile says you have only an S5? Is this on your S5?

That's underextrusion. But I can see the infill below and you might simply not have enough infill layers. with sparse infill like that the first solid layer tends to droop a bit so it's underextruded (that's normal for the first layer over infill). Then the next layer recovers a bit and by the 6th layer it's perfect. However the delamination of the sides - I can't see that clearly. If it does it on every layer then that's normal, unwanted, problematic underextrusion. It can have many causes. I don't know your printer. I have a list of about 30 causes for the UM2 printer but every printer is different. Some of the most common: printing too fast or too cold for your nozzle and volume combination weak feeder, damaged feeder teflon part in hot end gone soft due to age (and heat - the hotter it gets the faster it ages and goes soft and sags). If you print at half the current volume (e.g. half the layer height or speed) you are printing it should improve quite a bit (but probably still not 100% perfect). Or if you print 70% as fast and raise the temperature by another 10C. You can test the feeder by fighting it - UM feeders can typically pull with about 10 pounds (5kg) of force.

@cuq - nice find! I guess we should have asked him for his 3mf project file!

fbrc8 only services USA. For other countries talk to your reseller. I forget the terminology but each reseller reports to a distributor ("master reseller"? regional seller?). You might get passed on to that other company but at some point you will get instructions just like @TrueNorth did.

You could also try printing something old that is from before you installed the plugin.

It's not the plugin. The plugin only affects Z. Not X. Besides you removed it. It's a coincidence that it happened at the same time. Something is wrong with your printer. You can prove it by lowering the jerk and acceleration settings a LOT and it shouldn't lose steps. Try reducing acceleration and jerk by 3X. Most marlin printers let you change these values in the menu system. Or you can mark the stepper shaft and pulley and I suspect you will see that it slipped. There are many possibilities though - too much friction is another - the X axis when under high acceleration just can't fight the friction and momentum all at the same time. "belts too tight" can do it also as that can cause lots of friction. Things rubbing that shouldn't. stepper driver overheating (automatically these stepper drivers switch off for a fraction of a second if they get too hot).

Oh - and on the S5 there are deadly voltages under the cover and for a while I believe UM refused to let customers open that up but now they have some kind of document that they gave to all resellers and if you promise to follow the document perfectly then they are okay with you taking the cover off and reflashing. The UM3 and S3 don't have the deadly voltages issue as you can reflash without uncovering a power supply.

You don't have much choice. And it's really not a big deal to reflash. The only tricky part is getting someone to tell you where the "flash" versions of the firmware can be found.

Ah. Okay - so just run it through a repair service. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Here's another service - drag and drop mesh repair service: https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php Also - don't use raft. Ever. It's an old technology that is only needed with obscure materials like PEEK and even then shouldn't be used.

Well I see no red in your xray view which is great. so it's the "normals". Each triangle in the STL file has a "normal" which tells cura which side of the triangle is air and which side is solid part. I have 18 solutions but it would be easier if you told me what CAD you used. Or if it you got this from someone else.

If only one of X or Y axis shifts it's 90% of the time caused by the printer itself. Your printer may have worked for a while but something wasn't quite enough. It's almost always a pulley set screw. Does your printer have belts and pulleys that move the X axis? Check them all. Most especially check the one on the stepper. Tighten the hell out of those set screws. If you don't believe me mark the shaft and pulley of all the pulleys. Also make sure the belts aren't so loose that they can skip a tooth.