gr5

Well your "line width" parameter appears to be around 0.4 and you have it looks like a wall width of at least 1.2 (3 shells). So you won't get any "top layer" as you call it. You could lower the wall width to 0.4 and then you won't get any of those green shells. Just the red outer shell and then filled in with diagonal yellow "skin". However there are other things you can do to improve the top. You can use the "ironing" feature. Or I recommend getting the burtoogle version aka MB version of Cura here which does a really good job of thin parts like your text here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0&lst= The default settings will give you a more filled-in top layer (in real life - it's not as obvious in preview mode). Did you actually try printing these things? I bet they look better in real life than they do in preview mode. Also know that inset letters usually come out better than letters sticking out of the part.

@JoseAP - I think you want the nozzle (beak?) just a little closer to the bed. You can test this theory by pushing down a bit on the print head or up a bit on the bed while it prints the bottom layer.

@Guille_Fernande - this part of the forum is english.

I've never cleaned my feeder but I've been tempted. Tension should be fine as shipped from factory - I believe it's at the mid point. I wouldn't mess with that either for the most part. I think for some reason the feeder couldn't overcome something - maybe the filament caught inside the print head (I usually cut it to a point) or maybe there was a tangle on the spool.

Tell me what you mean by "plug in". Please include the project file. In cura do "file save" and it will create a "3mf" file that will include your model and all your printer settings and your profile settings and everything (so if your model is very private then don't do this!). When you say "ultimate 2" do you mean ultimaker 2? If so then your problem is most likely that you need to do the "bed leveling" procedure again: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011930859 Also pictures are usually helpful when explaining things. Although "base plate does not go all the way up to the nozzle" seems pretty clear I suppose.

Nozzles can extrude quite a bit more than they say they can so you can extrude 1mm line width out of a 0.4mm nozzle but you'll have to print a bit slower than usual. Try 25mm/sec for all printing speeds. But you can buy "AA 0.8" cores from any Ultimaker reseller in USA (which can much more easily do 1mm line width) or you can get 3dsolex Hardcore's which allow you to change nozzles and includes 1mm and 2mm nozzles. Matterhackers, 3duniverse, and myself sell a lot of 3dsolex hardcores. I'm at thegr5store.com: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3-noz.html

Wow. Did you save the gcode by any chance? If so, please post. I've never seen anyone mention this kind of thing before with Cura. Ever. Maybe it's just a display error. Are you using any plugins? Like the pause-at-Z plugin? If you use a plugin for one part and then forget, and slice something else the next day, the old plugin is normally still there and still active. If you have the gcode and the project hasn't changed then it would be great if you could post the gcode and also the project file.

That's not normal. Typically something keeps the filament from moving and if you keep trying you soon get this at the feeder.

You have to do the lift calibration again. Try reading the instructions on ultimaker.com. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011474120

Would you be willing to pay a developer for this feature? I bet @burtoogle could do this in just a few hours of his time.

I've never used one but I've seen many printers where the Y axis moves the bed (and therefore also the part being printed). These printers almost exclusively use Marlin firmware which has separate speed limits for X and Y axes. More importantly, separate acceleration for X versus Y axis. You can set these values on your printer (hopefully). Some versions of Mariln you have to set these values in Configuration.h and recompile the firmware. Anyway the manufacturer of your printer should have set these values to reasonable settings for your particular printer. You may be able to mess with them in the menu system - typically in a menu called "motion settings". So if you set the speed for example to 200mm/sec in Cura, the Y axis will be limited by that speed limit and shouldn't actually move that fast. And more importantly, the Y acceleration should be slower than the X acceleration.

I know you just created an account here but you will likely get better luck if you create an account and then an issue on github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues This is very cool what you are doing. Did you build this printer yourself? I have some custom firmware that autoretracts as you slow down to control nozzle pressure (high nozzle pressure at high speeds, low nozzle pressure at low speeds) and would really help your situation here.

So you can see clearly in the preview that Cura is printing those bumps. Something is off on your printer. I'm guessing that your first layer isn't sticking very well. It would be helpful to show the first layer of your print complete (and failing). Here is a video that explains well how to get the first layer to stick - VERY VERY WELL:

You showed the "prepare" view. Please show the "preview" view after slicing that part. I suspect the problem is more with the printer than cura but I need to see "preview" mode to be sure.

You have less Y travel on that machine. There is an end-stop switch for the Y direction. Push the head towards the rear of the printer until you hear the switch click. It should happen when the rod hits the switch (sometimes you have the opposite problem where the rod has slid through the sliding blocks and doesn't hit it at all). Anyway you want that click that you hear to occur another mm or so farther back. You can try bending the metal part of the switch but you might break it. You can also loosen the 2 screws on the left side of the printer that hold the switch, then slide the switch towards the rear of the printer and retighten. Go easy when retightening - there are no nuts - the threads are self-tapping in the plastic switch housing and it's easy to strip them so go a little easy on the tightening. Whatever you do, make sure when you push the head to the back of the printer, you still hear the click before the head stops moving.

Will the printer let you do a "cura connect reset"? That's on the printer menu. That fixes a ton of problems that have nothing to do with "cura connection".

In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then if that passes choose "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes".

It looks like your X axis is slipping. Usually that's caused by a loose pulley. Mark the shaft of the stepper and the pulley with a sharpie and print something and see if it is slipping.

Love it! I'm guessing a zip lock baggie in everyone's pocket would work also?

It might be a setting on the printer itself. I've seen this feature on some printers. Also note that cura has many temperatures so type "temp" into the setting window in Cura. Also you can open the gcode and search for "S215". It should not appear anywhere in the entire gcode file. If it does then it's a cura issue. If it doesn't then it's a A20M issue.

It's leveling. Try pushing up on the bed or down on the nozzle and you will see it's better. If you still have issues, please include photos.

if using blender you probably have reversed normals (or missing walls). You shouldn't be able to but unfortunately, Blender lets you set which side of a wall has plastic and which side has air (most CAD programs don't even ask or have the option to create non-solids but blenders lets you reverse these). Here's how to fix your model. https://www.katsbits.com/codex/flip-normals/

First of all - you can't just print an existing gcode file with a mismatched nozzle. You need to slice specifically with a 0.25mm line width. So I'm guessing what happened is it was trying to cram too much filament through that tiny nozzle and eventually it ground down the filament at the feeder. That's one theory. Another theory is that the nozzle was too far above the glass plate. If filament isn't sticking to the glass plate, try pushing up gently with your finger on the bed and if it starts working then you can just turn the 3 screws CCW (looking from below) 1/2 turn or so to raise it a bit. In general you want to print really small things - usually things smaller than 1cm (half inch) with the 0.25mm nozzle. You can do line widths down to 0.2mm and still get decent quality. Usually I have to print 3 or even 7 objects such that each one has time to cool while printing the others. You might want to lower the bed temp to around 50C if the prints are coming out a bit blobby. And print slow - like 25mm/sec or even slower. You want max possible fan - it might help to have a desk fan blowing some air into the front of the printer. And print on the cool side - lower nozzle temp by 5C or so versus normal.

Okay so zip files are files that store other files. Like a directory folder. So you need to first open up the zip file and take out the contents and put the contents into another folder. It sounds like you are on a Windows machine. So for example, double click the zip file will show you the contents - look around for all the STL files and then drag them somewhere (e.g. your desktop or a folder just for 3d printing STL files maybe). Then drag the files from *there* to Cura to see them in 3D view and to slice them and so on.