gr5

Next time please include a photo of your part.

I think you want to set "line width" for the second extruder. Also note that PVA can absorb water and when it does it starts extruding lots of steam and the pva comes out snapping/hissing/popping and it doesn't work so well. You can bake it back dry again on the heated bed under a towel for several hours - do a test sample fist to make sure you don't melt it and ruin it. Also note that PVA sticks to glass and other PVA reasonably well but will not stick on top of PLA at all (well- it barely sometimes sticks). So there is a feature called "horizontal expansion" that should be set to 3mm by default to help the PVA go "all the way down" to the glass. In other words the support in this donut hole should be connected to side walls that go down to the glass. So maybe you need to increase horizontal expansion.

Wow. Great article @SteveCox3D I don't understand about rounded versus angled fillets though. Rounded wastes less material. Both should have similar strengths. Is it that rounded is uglier? Is that the issue? If you really care about maximum strength with least material you would do a more complicated shape (maybe parabolic? Not sure). Okay I agree that the first large flat step seems like a waste but it's more efficient than the angled fillet when you include all those steps. It can use less material and be just as strong. So personally I believe the angled fillet is better than no fillet. the curved is even better but there is another shape that is even better than the rounded fillet. I suspect.

I'm not sure what you mean. "images"? "preloaded"? Are you asking about cura, the slicer? Are you talking about the printer "loads them into the bottom corner"? If so, which printer? What preloaded images do you mean? On the printer are there preloaded gcode files? Is that what you mean? So I think this is the "0,0 is center" versus "0,0 is corner" issue. I see it all the time but the way you describe it I'm not sure. So I'm thinking instead of "images" you mean your "gcode files" appear clearly but into the corner. In cura you can slice for delta printers which have 0,0 in the center. It will center the print at 0,0. If you then display that in cura for a non-delta printer it will show the print in the front left corner both in cura and in real life it will print that way. Maybe you could provide some images (screen shots or pictures of the issue).

This is because the model was created with sketchup and they didn't create a proper model. some of the parts in this (I think those corner diagonal things) have the triangles in the STL showing their normals backwards - the "normals" in the STL say which side of the triangle is solid and which side should be air. So when cura slices it gets confused. Always look at a part in slice view and if shows that it is printing somewhere it shouldn't - don't think it won't do that when you really try to print. Slice view tells the truth. So what's the solution? You have a few options. 1) You could easily fix the sketchup file - right click on the gray walls and select "reverse faces" to make them white. the skp file (the sketchup file) is included so I'd go this route. Because I've used sketchup a lot. 2) You could sent the STL through a cleanup program - this one is free but requires you to create an account: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php 3) There are some model repair options you could try in Cura. "mesh fixes". I thought there was normal fix but I don't see it.

How many do you plan to make? If you will be making hundreds of these but all different then I would definitely consider buying a printer. Probably a UM2go but it depends on what else you will print. the um2go is probably going to give you the best accuracy. And upgrade it to have an olson block and a 0.25mm nozzle. But before you buy a printer, I would send this off to shapeways.com and have them print it. Then also use 3dhubs to have it printed using an Ultimaker printer (preferably a UM2 or UM2go). You need to see typical quality which might not be good enough for whatever this thing will be used for. This part being only 7mm across should cost about $5 or 5 euros to print at shapeways. Similar price on 3dhubs.

Two thoughts. 1) that is the typical position for a tower. Make sure you turned off the "wipe tower". The new wipe tower is supposed to be round. That really really looks like a wipe tower. You can change it's position as you can set the X and Y position of the tower or you can just get rid of it. 2) If it's not a wipe tower then try rotating your primary part to see if that other thing moves as well.

I know that Ultimaker3's are made both in Netherlands and USA. Is the same true for the S5?

I'd love to see a picture of some part of fbrc8 as well!

Works for me in ubuntu linux. You need opengl drivers for cura to work. Do you have those installed? I didn't have to install anything but maybe you do.

Oh wait. I was looking at it wrong. Okay - if those are in inches or mm then it's probably printable.

If these dimensions are in mm then, "no". Ultimaker printers can't print this. Walls thinner than 0.2mm are quite difficult if not impossible. If these dimensions are in meters then again, no these parts are much too large to fit in an ultimaker printer. If these dimensions are in inches then it looks quite easy to print. How thick are those walls in your drawing? And what is the length of the longest dimension?

M302 S0 - allows cold extrudes. It should be sent all by itself if you want to extrude with the nozzle cold. Or you can just heat the nozzle to 180C and you can skip that step. G0 E100 tells the extruder to move to position 100. But if you don't know the current position you would have to do a command before that to reset to position 0: G92 E0 -- this tells the extruder that it is now at position 0. BUT YOU DON'T NEED TO DO ANY OF THIS. Instead you can just use the menus on the front of the printer. If you are going to do the above commands you can either put them into a gcode file (each needs to be on a separate line - not all combined together like you posted). Or you could hook up a USB cable to the printer and run pronterface (it's free software) and type these commands manually and they will execute as you type them. pronterface is great for debugging and calibrating and such but I don't think you really need it right now.

I have tinker firmware but isn't MOVE on the right side part way down? If not go to "advanced" and then "move material".

The gcode file looks fine - it looks like this: M92 E311 M500 The first command sets the steps/mm for the E axis (extruder) to 311 which is correct for the DDG (not the other bondtech product). The second command, M500, saves to permanent memory. there was a bug in the UM2 firmware where it wasn't reading all of the gcode file. I would consider adding a bunch of empty lines or lines with comments - you could change the above file to this and print it again: M92 E311 M500 ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file ;extra junk to make sure the arduino reads this whole file However if the above test I suggested moves the filament 100mm then you are all set. If you changed you firmware recently you might want to do a FACTORY RESET but if you do that you will have to print the gcode file again to set the steps/mm again.

Go to the "MOVE" menu and move the filament so it's near the center of the bowden. Mark the bowden somehow (you could just put your finger on it). Then move the filament 100mm with the MOVE command. Then use a ruler to measure how far it moved.

The algorithm could be much better. Cura puts the estimated total time and the total number of layers in a comment at the top of the gcode file. UM2 firmware (incorrectly) assumes each layer will take the same amount of time. The firmware measure how long the layers have taken so far and how many layers have printed and how long the estimation is and tries to correct the estimation. It shouldn't correct because the estimate from cura is usually spot on. So if your print is for example pyramid shaped with a wide base and narrow top, then the printer will over estimate. If your print is say like a table with many quick layers printing only 4 legs and then some very slow layers on top, the printer will under estimate. Ideally cura should put an estimate of progress in a comment at the start of EVERY layer and the firmware should be able to compare that to actual time and update the estimated total time. But it doesn't.

Most resellers have MANY more parts than listed in their store.

On UM2 you can alternatively send 2 gcodes that set the steps/mm and save it into permanent memory. So you don't actually have to change the firmware if you don't want to but tinkerMarlin is pretty great firmware. I have it on all my printers. It has lots of great features such as "resume failed print" and hundreds of other useful things.

For which printer? For um2 it is recommended to install tinkerMarlin which is made by tinkergnome on this forum. For um3 you have to edit a json file. Basically the only thing you are changing is the steps/mm. You could instead fudge it by lying about your filament diameter or setting the flow % but it's much better to properly set the steps/mm.

between layers? So normally we talk about *horizontal* layers. Anytime anyone mentions layers we are usually talking about horizontal slices. Is that what you mean? anyway I'm staring at this photo and I'm confused where the part is but I think maybe the part itself is where the arrows point and the rest is brim? Could you switch to the other color method please where brim is one color and walls are another and outer wall is red and inner walls are green? Anyway if I'm seeing this right then I think the walls of your part are too thin to print. Try setting the "line width" parameter to 0.2mm just to see what happens (that will allow walls up to 0.4mm) -- I could be totally wrong - maybe your walls are 10mm - not sure. Also there is a "print thin walls" checkbox that you might want to try.

What state/country are you in?

It's just a "T0" to go to the left core and a "T1" to go to the right core. That's it.

Next - will you be able to prime without hitting the print? Have your fingers on the power button if you aren't sure. I've continued a failed print on the UM2 but never tried it on the UM3. You should probalby eliminate the priming part as well. Leave all those comments at the top (they start with semi colon). Typical gcode for um3 starts similar to this: T0 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G92 E0 M109 S210 G0 F15000 X9 Y6 Z2 G280 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:105 ;LAYER:0 M107 M204 S625 M205 X6 Y6 G0 F4285.7 X110.836 Y74.325 Z0.27 M204 S500 M205 X5 Y5 ;TYPE:SKIRT T0 sets to tool 0 or left core. T1 to right core. Decide where you left off or plan to start up and choose that core. Leave the M82 alone M109 heats up the core (T0 in this case as that is the most recent chosen) Get rid of that G0 that goes to Z2 that moves to prime position and will likely hit your print Get rid of the G280 - it must do the prime itself - never heard of G280 Get rid of the E-6.5 - that's a retraction M107 is fan off. You want fan on. Change that to: M106 S255 ;fan on 100% (255=100% 0=0%) Leave M204 and M205 alone - those are for acceleration and jerk settings and will get changed most likely later anyway. Delete that G0 to layer Z0.27 (0.27 is the height of the bottom layer. In fact delete from that G0 F4285 (in my case) all the way to where you want it to start printing. Look at the first line where you want it to start printing - something like this: ;TIME_ELAPSED:1098.468254 ;LAYER:39 G0 X118.553 Y121.431 Z8.07 M204 S4000 M205 X25 Y25 ;TYPE:FILL G1 F1500 E343.49731 G1 F4200 X113.659 Y116.537 E343.57325 Note that in my case the first extrusion move has extruder position E343.49731. If you do nothing else it will try to advance the extruder 343mm which would be bad - lots of grinding. so instead, do this: M92 E343.49731 M92 tells the printer to reset an axis (in this case the extruder or E axis) to a particular position - in my case 343mm. Your start point will differ. That's it! Print it! I didn't see anything that set the bed temp so once it start printing go into the tune menu and make sure the bed is still set for the correct temp. Also have your fingers on the power switch if the head starts to smash into your part.

First step is to figure out EXACTLY what the Z was where it failed. You can often do this by comparing layer view carefully with the print. Ideally there is some detail that is different on the last successful layer so you can figure that out. Alternatively you can set the Z position very carefully with the nozzle cold and figure out what the height is exactly that way. It probably requires sending gcodes to the printer so you have to use ssh. Before you can use ssh you have to have the printer in dev mode. But better to figure it out by looking carefully (more accurate) at the print and in layer view.