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Printers are so easily damaged in shipping I would try to get the reseller to send me only the olimex board. I think if you showed them these images they'd be willing to send you one. I also think that "crc" error is the most serious thing there. It sounds like the boot image is corrupt.

Leveling looks good. That's most likely different things on your bed. For example, if you want it smoother than that then don't use gluestick. Or if you do, wipe it with a wet tissue to spread it much thinner. If there is no glue stick on your bed then it's probably oils from your fingers or maybe some dripped off the gantry. Or if you washed the glass recently you may have left some soap behind. You have to clean it really well if you want a consistent bottom. I like to wash with soap and water and then dry it with a paper towel and then wash it again with glass cleaner (Windex). But some say Windex leaves behind a barrier layer behind and PLA won't stick to it but I wouldn't know because then I put a very thin layer of PVA on top of that.

>My plan is to use a 0.6 3d solex steel nozzle for printing woodfill filament. >So I don't need to change anything else? Right. 0.6 and 0.4 aren't all that different. You shouldn't have to change temperature or speed or layer height or anything else. Just change the line width. I prefer to do 0.6mm line width for a 0.6mm nozzle but it will work just fine if you do a 0.55mm line width. Maybe even a little better result depending what you care about. The 0.6 might be slightly more dimensionally accurate. You can probably push up the speed more if .55mm line width. maybe.

Just use the AA 0.4 profile - even when I use an AA 0.8 core I still use the AA 0.4 profile as I find it to be better. At least for me. Then change line width to your nozzle width (in your case set "line width" to 0.6mm).

No I'm saying you can simply drill your own hole in the perfect position. As kman says, place the hole so the filament makes as gentle a transition as possible, eliminating any sharp bends. Eliminating as much friction as possible. Maybe the hole through the top is in the right spot but maybe not. If you have a drill and drill bits then how hard could it be?

If you issue just the M145 T0 command and then a quarter second later you issue the other command it will be too late. You need to issue both commands REALLY FAST together or the M145 will be reversed again. So robin recommends you do a cut and paste both in simultaneously.

The feeder on the UM2 plus is identical to the left feeder on the UM3. Same height. Same feeder parts. Same feeder. Basically I don't like the looks of that hole inthe upper *rear* of that polylbox. I guess if the filament came over the top of the spool and went straight out. Better to have the hole near the same corner but on the top face I think - maybe drill a small hole and transfer the o-ring/gasket to the new hole and plug the old hole? Not sure. I am cheap so I just use a gallon sized zip lock for nylon and pva and zip the bag mostly up except for a few cm to let the filament out. I place all of that either on the table behind the printer or on the floor behind and below the printer. Nylon is wonderful in it's flexibility. Very few filaments are as flexible as nylon so this issue with pva will happen with pla and ngen and pet and cpe and pc.

You should reply here. not by private message. That way someone else can help you. fitz says he did that but the box is still small in the cura display. Can you give screen shots please? One screenshot in the device manager where it shows the bounding box size in millimeters. Another screen shot showing the printer - each square is 10mm in this view. You can count things up. Is it possible that your bounding box is fine but the part you want to print is in the wrong units and is too big?

machine settings. In the top right corner there should be a chosen printer. To the right of the printer is a drop down. Choose manage printers and edit your printer - edit the x,y,z size there and other printer parameters.

This is a known problem. I forget if you need to install the latest openGL drivers or the latest drivers for you graphics card or you have to get a whole new graphics card. But it's one of those three things. If opengl doesn't support a feature needed to display adaptive layers then the option for viewing this is completely removed from the color scheme drop down.

Yeah this sure looks like a bug. Can you post this info on github? You have to create a github account if you don't have one (it's free though) but worth the trouble as this is much more likely to get fixed if you post there and please include the 2 photos: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues

I have seen that many times. That is what we call "severe underextrusion". You may be printing too fast or your printer may be defective. Try printing at 1/4 speed or communicate with other people with A8 printers.

Your plate is too far from the nozzle on the right side. Turn that screw (right screw) one full turn CCW from below to move the plate up. Turn the other 2 screws 1/3 turn CCW also. Also I recommend some kind of PVA glue. You can get away with no glue sometimes and with smaller parts but you should put on a thin layer of glue. There's 3 excellent ways to do this - one way is to use the supplied glue stick and use it sparsely (don't cover the whole bed) then spread it around with a wet tissue to remove most of it and to spread it very thin. Alternatives: hair spray, wood glue mixed with water (1 part wood glue, 10 parts water) spread with paint brush. Wait for it to dry.

Let us know if there is any red in xray view. if there is or isn't then we will try to think of another theory. Also could you move to a layer that shows these extra membranes you are talking about? I don't see what you mean in the photo. Also please zoom in (plus key on number pad or I think mouse wheel also works).

maybe. Possibly. Retract distance is too large. Try 4mm in S3D.

It's all here. There are no official release notes but you can see everything that happened in every version. Each commit has some comments. Overall it's pretty clear what each new version came with (features/bug fixes). There's actually a version 12.07 even! https://github.com/daid/LegacyCura release list (not all that helpful): https://github.com/daid/LegacyCura/releases?after=13.05 Do you know git? I strongly recommend you install git. Then do a clone (read about how to clone from github) onto your machine of "legacycura". Then there is a great graphical viewer in standard git (works on mac/pc/linux) called gitk. Just type gitk to see it. You can quickly scroll through the 2000 or so commits and the tags for each release are in bright yellow. I think you could combine 3 years of git commit comments into a page full of notes in a few hours. If you manage to do such a thing, maybe post it here? I'm sure Daid, the main author back then, who now works for Ultimaker, would love to see a nice summary.

I'm not sure but I think it's very similar to CPE or CPE+? UM has their own name for PET I think and they call it CPE. I think. I would just choose the CPE profile and adjust the nozzle and bed temps to match the manufacturer's recommendations.

I'm not sure what you want. There are probably 8 ways to change flow. Do you want to change flow for the entire print? Or just certain layers? Or what? If doing it for all prints, then the recommended way is to do it on the printer - on the right menus you can configure your material. First select the material (e.g. PLA), then customize it and change the flow to say 110%, than save it and select PLA. Now if you start a new print and after it gets started you go into the TUNE menu, you should see the flow set to 110%. There are some UM2 firmware bugs where you might lose this setting on power failure. I found I had to save it twice - or save it once, then edit a different material and save that as well, then power cycle and load it up and it should remember. You could also tweak the filament diameter. If you want to increase flow by 10% then you could decrease the filament diameter by square root of 1.1 (110%). The square root is because area is proportional to diameter squared. If you want to do all this stuff in cura of different flow settings for different areas of your part, then go into machine settings and create a custom machine. Choose "marlin" gcode flavor. Set x,y,z to correct values (200,200,300 will work but you can go bigger than that). printhead settings don't matter unless you do a print in "one at a time mode" where you are printing multiple objects all consecutively. These values keep the head from hitting the previously printed part and keep the part from hitting the x/y gantry rods.

Fixed it on my website just now. Thanks! Table above is still wrong - not so easy to create the table again as the data is all in json format now. Although I might write some code to output it into a table some day.

I recommend you stick with nylon. PVA works better with Nylon than many other materials. Nylon is a fantastic material once you learn all the tricks. I think instead you should concentrate on fixing the "warping" problems. When you say "warping" do you mean the bottom layer is lifting at the corners? If this is the only issue left then this is easily fixed. Please show a photo of the issue you mean - your "warping" issue. You use the blanked *during* printing. Right? You want the air temperature to reach about 35C. If you have a temperature probe you can check the temperature of the inner side of the printer. But this is only one of about 5 things you need to do for Nylon to stick well. The quick version is: brim, rounded corners, squish extra well, very very thin liquid PLA on the glass, fan very low or off (3% max), clean all grease and dust off glass once per month and clean off soap also, cover front and top to get air to 35C. I can elaborate on these after I know what you are already doing and what you mean by "warping". Photographs please!

The bug was in about 2 years of firmwares but it didn't show up until you had all 3 bugs working together.

glass preperation After "squish" the next most important thing is glass preparation. Keeping it super clean is important. Wash in soap and water and then dry AND THEN also wash with glass plus or similar window cleaner. This will remove the last bit of soap and oil. That's good enough for most prints but if you want it to stick even better I recommend a very thin layer of PVA. The most common ways are: 1) 3DLAC - you spray this on the glass. Easy. But expensive compared to: 2) Hairspray. I like aquanet unscented (blue can). Make sure to remove the glass from the printer so you don't get PVA all over your printer and on the z screw 3) glue stick - for CPE you want a very thick layer so you can get the parts off but for PLA, ABS, Nylon and most other materials use a wet tissue to remove most of the glue and spread it very thin. 4) Wood glue. I use Elmer's wood glue. Mix it 10 to 20X parts water to 1 part wood glue. I like to use a glass jar with wide lid. Shake it up well. Then open and use a small paintbrush to spread the milky liquid on the glass. Heat to 60C and usually right about when glass reaches 60C it dries. it should be thin enough that it's hard to see once dry. Rinse the paintbrush afterward to keep it clean. The strangest thing about PVA is the thinner you make it the better parts seem to stick. But obviously, at some point, you have no glue left. #4 is my favorite method but I've tried 2 through 4. They all work quite well. 5) Instead of PVA You can try salt water. google it. 6) For ABS you can try ABS juice. Google it. Make it yourself. I don't use any PVA glue for CPE as it can chip the glass (remove chunks of the glass) because it sticks too well. I just clean the bed extra well. Or I'm very careful not to squish the bottom layer much. Or some people put extra thick glue stick down for CPE to keep the part from bonding to the glass too much.

It looks like you have a leak just above the block. Or did that come from below the print head? I can't tell without seeing if your print failed before this happened. But I'm leaning towards the fact that you have a leak. You should contact your reseller and get a new one. Or if you are too shy do do such a thing you could (as a last resort?) try to fix it yourself. It's VERY delicate but this video will show you where it can break easily and how to take it apart and tighten it without breaking anything: AGAIN - THIS WILL VOID YOUR CORE WARRANTY

This is a recent known bug. 3 things have to happen together for this to happen. If you fix ANY of the 3 things this bug will go away. Hundreds of people had this problem. You can either: 1) Go to the latest version of cura or the version before from a few weeks ago (I think version 3.2.0 or newer). 2) Add lots of large comments at the end of every gcode file (latest curas will do this). About 20 lines of 80 characters is plenty. 3) Update to the latest um2go firmware Any of these 3 things will fix the problem.

Link doesn't work. [edit - works now] I have ubuntu and windows so building in either environment would be great. Preferably ubuntu but most people will perfer windows of course.