gr5

Well if you are on a tight budget go to aliexpress and search for "ultimaker original peek" and "ultimaker original ptfe". I don't know which UM resellers ship to Egypt and also carry UMO parts. I know USA market much better.

I made a correction comment in your original post. Is this the top layer? Because if this is the bottom layer ALL my answers change dramatically. Wait so you went through all 5 or so printing speed settings and set them all to the same value? Also what about layer height? If it was .1mm for cura 15 and .15 for cura 2 that would explain everything because it's trying to squeeze more filament through the nozzle in a given second and more likely to underextrude. Basically what you are seeing here is probably underextrusion. Although I'd like to see a better photo of both parts to be sure. And line width? Are all 5 or so line width settings set to 0.4 or the default 0.35? And what was layer height? Oh - how many layers does each slicer end up with? Does cura 2 end up with more or fewer layers after slicing? I'm wondering if the top layer is a partial layer.

What??? The left one looks better, right? Maybe zoom in more? It sure looks like it is touching just fine here. Anyway if it's the same printer and filament then it has to be something in the gcodes. So the main things are temperature, speed, layer height and line width. speed Both curas have at least 3 printing speeds, cura 2 has more than 2. You have to check *all* the printing speeds (infill speed, inner wall, outer wall) as any of these can affect the issue. line width Same with line width - check *all* the line widths in cura 2. And in cura 15 is your nozzle size an exact multiple of the shell? if not it kind of ignores your nozzle size. So for example if nozzle size is 0.4 and shell is 1mm it will do two 0.5mm wide walls and all the infill will also be at 0.5mm wide. temperature Like speed, there are many temperatures. infill overlap Should be set to 15% in both curas. Check that.

Oh sketchup has major issues. It is designed to make things look good but not actually be printable (manifold). But if you have been using it for over 100 hours you might want to stick to sketchup and double down (I switched to DSM - design spark mechanical but it took me about a year before I could do stuff without thinking and let my fingers just do their thing). sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ from labern: When using sketchup always use these 2 plugins: cleanup3 (may be 4 now) Solid inspector. Both of these plugins remove any problems with the model unseen by the eye and turn it into a solid model.

So there are 4 types of teflon that I know about: UM PTFE coupler UM PTFE glass filled 3dsolex TFT UM TFM coupler (same as 3dsolex TFT) 3dsolex TFN disclaimer: I sell 3dsolex products in my store (thegr5store.com) so I might be biased. For USA only. So These products are displayed in order of when they were made available for sale. As you go down I thought the products were always getting better. Now I'm not so sure. Now I suspect that the TFT part is better than the TFN. I'm not certain. Both are much better than the older PTFE. Much better. But even though the specifications are better for the TFN, it seems like the TFT lasts longer. So I no longer offer the TFN and I'm out of TFT for now. So I recommend you get the TFM from fbrc8.com at this point. It's much better than the PTFE part but does not last forever and is considered a consumable. Because UM considers it a consumable aparently they offer it at a very good price. I don't understand the logic but it's good for us users of the product. The only way I know to increase it's lifespan is to print at cooler temps. But you are already at 210. There is also the i2k from 3dsolex but I don't recommend that either unless you want to print at >240C day in and out. You can also upgrade your feeder. For $19 you can get the meduza kit from my store. This will almost double your extruding power (assuming you still have the black feeder. And let you ignore the degrading teflon a bit longer. NEVER BUY THE UM PTFE COUPLER. It's just not a good product and I'm not sure why it's still for sale.

If you have a lathe and some teflon you can make your own. But it MUST be made of teflon. This is the most important material in the entire printer. You can't 3d print it. It's only about 15 euros plus maybe 10 euros shipping? Hopefully you can get the budget for that. These parts for the UMO are all cad drawings so if you can open them in cad software you can measure the diameters directly. Where did you find this drawing? Everything is posted on github in the ultimaker account: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal

Are you using pva support material or is the printing material and the support material the same material?

It should work. What did you choose for your wall width? If you set that larger than your part size then it will have walls so thick it is also 100% filled. I think a screenshot showing your settings and what your part looks like in slice view would be helpful.

don't get the e3d print head. No good for pla. pla is the best filament. The best material. But the e3d print head only works with ABS and other difficult-to-print materials. ABS is one of the first 3d printed material that got popular but pla has better characteristics. Other materials are better than ABS like nGen. Unless you are absolutely sure you want to print ABS (it will require a heated bed most likely and you will have to enclose the printer and it will smell very bad) then the e3d print head is great. Just get the one part you need from 3dsolex - the UMO teflon part. Now those other parts. They are 90% likely to be for 1.75mm filament only. Unless they specifically sell 2 different versions, then they will be for 1.75mm filament and will not work for you. I know the text says "for 1.75mm 3.0mm filament" but that's deceiving. They just copy/pasted the description. There are two different sets of parts. They change those brass parts at the top and bottom and they also change the 2 extruder wheels depending if you want 3mm or 1.75mm version. Are there companies there that sell 3mm filament? Are you really in Egypt? What country you are in is very important. If you are in USA I have COMPLETELY different recommendations. I guess before you do anything look to see if you can even buy 3mm filament (it's actually 2.85mm filament - they just call it 3mm).

Here is that feeder - make sure you select 3mm:

Oh - that feeder you posted a photo of. Is it for 3mm filament or 1.75mm filament? I recommend you stick with 3mm. If you get a 1.75mm filament feeder you won't be able to attach the bowden tube to it. And if you buy a 1.75mm bowden then it won't fit the print head. You definitely want to get a 3mm feeder.

Wow - you are missing a lot. Well the teflon coupler is the most important - if you are missing that you are really screwed. You can get a UMO teflon part at 3dsolex.com Make sure to get the version for 3mm filament. The other parts I don't know about. Is there a UM reseller in your country? It looks like you might be in Egypt (moderators get to see countries of posters but it is an unreliable feature). Anyway, I don't know if there are any resellers there - in theory one could get the part numbers of those parts and the reseller could order it form Ultimaker. I think you are better off getting that feeder you posted a photo of. That one looks fine - you just need a way to position it somewhere. You can even simply hang it by string from the celing - it doesn't have to be held very securely. I would personally just hang it with some string initially and then the first thing I would print would be my own custom design to mount that to your printer.

Being able to select materials is a relatively new feature and very difficult to implement. It sets things like bed and nozzle temperature. You are just going to have to set bed and nozzle temperature yourself manually. Every printer is different so a 200C nozzle temp for PLA is great for an Ultimaker with a 0.4mm nozzle but change the nozzle or the printer or the layer height and now you probably need to change the temperature anyway. For example Ultimaker came up with about 60 files for just the UM3 and the 0.4mm nozzle. It's a lot of work to create these profiles and they aren't going to create them for other printers but maybe the "anycubic" people can create profiles? They're not really that useful though -- I mean you aren't missing much. Just go to the website of the company that makes the material and they will have a recommended print temperature. Start with that.

Did you print at 0.2mm? That's kind of at the extreme. I think it's something in your model - some floating point rounding error somewhere or something.

Oh and the 0.4 nozzles print pretty well from line widths of around 0.6 down to about 0.2. But if you overprint (print line widths wider than the nozzle) then you have to slow things down a lot. The quality will certainly be better at 0.3 than at 0.5 for a 0.4 nozzle. Similarly for other nozzle sizes - you can print down to about half the nozzle size and up to about double (barely). This practice works much better than most people expect.

Most likely that thicker region is in the original model. Maybe. When looking at "layer view" please change your line color to be "line type" as then it's easier to see what is "outer" wall, what is "inner" wall and what is infill. Although of course this is probably all outer wall. In cura - just above the "quality" section - enter "line width" as the search term. Look at: wall line width outer wall line width inner wall(s) line width Set all of those to the same value and play with the value. Assuming your nozzle is 0.4, try values like 0.3 0.35 0.39 0.2 and so on. I think you can find a combination that makes this go away.

Do you mean "bridge" speed? What was the bridge speed in slic3r?

The version invented by Anders Olsson (he made the first 20 or so at his place of work), then produced by 3dsolex for a while (they made the next thousand or so), and then produced by Ultimaker - all of those versions I believe have the same size screw which is a metric 3mm screw also known as a M3. This screw is the same threading as every screw (99% of the screws) on the printer. The head of the screw is countersunk whereas all the other screws on the UM2 are "button head". 3dsolex also includes a little M3 star lock washer that kind of bites into the heater and temp sensor when you tighten it. I don't remember if UM includes the washer. Probably they do. Because of how the wiring is bent and where pressure is applied, you can probably get away without the screw. Once the head is screwed together with the 4 long screws I think you'll find the heater and sensor are pretty securely inside the olsson block.

This is great! I love seeing some experimentation on the forum!! 1) Please show the first 2 photos again. Please show all the temperatures instead of just two temperatures. (please zoom out) 2) In the first photos - what speed(s) did you use for printing speeds and for bridging speeds. 3) Is it only the bridge speed that makes the difference? What happens if: bridge speed = slicing speed ?? I mean if in cura you slow down all the speeds to your bridge speed that you used in slicer will it really looks just as good? Or is there more that slicer is doing besides setting the speed? This is a really great post and maybe enough to get Cura designers to add a bridging speed feature.

Well maybe you could create a different machine for each type of filament? Then each machine could have different start codes. You could also create a plugin to do this easily and the plugin input value (the gcode) could show up as one of the many profile settings. This would probably be a plugin that other people would use. It's easiest to look at an existing plugin and just make the minor modifications to make it do your gcode insertion thing.

Are you using 1.75mm filament? If so you have to tell cura that. I think cura defaults to 3mm filament.

Why do you need ABS? If it's for high temp would ngen work? material property information available here: http://gr5.org/mat/

I don't know if the cores are destroyed but I have to admit it's a lot harder to get ABS out than PLA. Basically you need a heat gun and pick it out slowly over the course of an hour or three. The cause is when your part doesn't stick to the bed well *and* the part is much wider than it is tall when this happens. Those are the 2 requirements. Then what happens is the part is dragged around on the bed like a hockey puck on ice (if the part is taller than wide it is more likely to just fall over). The nozzle keeps extruding but it is on the same spot on the part - sort of not moving. The pressure builds up. If you have no silicone things are even worse and the problem gets into the head a little sooner. With the silicone it tries to stop this from happening but the pressure is high. The fix is to never ever let parts slip on your bed. For ABS this is harder to do but you can become an expert. Watch this video. I know it's long but it's full of valueable information. For one thing you need that bed at 110C for ABS and you have to enclose the printer anyway for ABS to get the air up to 35C or you won't likely get good layer bonding and your parts will be weak. Your pva looks to be much too thick - you want it so thin it's invisible and even better use ABS juice (google it - just ABS and acetone). And finally you need to squish the hell out of the bottom layer to get it to stick well. There are other tricks (rounded corners, brim) but squishing is critical, glass temp is critical, and a clean bed with very very thin layer of abs glue or pva is critical. Video shows 3 ways to achieve the thin layer of glue and how exactly to get the first layer squished extra well (hint - don't use autolevel).

Can I see a photo of the feeder when it's closed and ready to print? If you are new with this printer you might not be closing it properly (this is a common problem for first time users). Is this your first time printing or have you printed 100s of parts just fine in the past? With the nozzle at 200C and the feeder open such that the filament slides easily in and out you should push on the filament with about 5 pounds (3kg) force and see filament coming out of the nozzle. Does it squirt out just fine? If so the problem is at the feeder end and not the nozzle end. If it does *not* feed well one test is to remove only the nozzle (while hot - anywhere 120C to 180C) and then let it cool to room temperature and then feed the filament through the head to see if there is a tight spot somewhere - it should slide through easily with the nozzle removed and everything cold. I suppose there could be some hardened left over filament in the head so maybe you have to heat the block to about 100C and that should be plenty warm enough to slide fresh filament through without making a mess. Once it starts passing through the head lower the temp and pull out the filament - you don't want it stuck in the threads. Then try again at temps below 50C (52C is the softening temp of pla).

There's no infill pattern quite like that. That's why I said to make the wall width 1 meter. As walls get thicker and thicker basically it crowds out all the "infill" and so it doesn't matter what infill pattern you use as it's using the "wall" pattern. Which is to make concentric walls until you fill everything in. Is that clear? Again if you can make a model in cad and play with cura settings (set wall width larger than the print) things will be more obvious. I regret using the word "plywood". I think you misunderstood and now are using it in a way that I don't quite understand. when I mentioned it before it was describing something 3 dimensional. I don't think you are ready to think in 3D yet. I think we should concentrate on 2D - concentrate on what you want a single layer to look like. Your drawing is from above, right? My drawing was also meant to be from above. When I mentioned "plywood" I was saying that some layers look like our drawings, but then IN BETWEEN layers might look completely different. Maybe I was assuming all of our drawings were from above and you were assuming all of our drawings are a side view? If so that would explain a lot!