gr5

It's the power supply most likely. Or maybe a short circuit. The power supply does this - shuts off for just a fraction of a second - if the printer is drawing too much power. Do you specifically set the bed to 20C? Or do you set the bed to 0C and it just ends up displaying 20C? This is important. Because if you specifically set the bed to 20C that could explain everything - try setting it to 0C instead. The bed draws much more power at 20C than at higher temperatures and this could overload the power supply if you are powering everything (servos, nozzle, bed) at once.

I have the bondtech feeder (it says qty 0 but I have one), the olsson block, the 35W heater and I can give you a free ABS version of the aluminum ring. I don't sell the UM2 upgrade kit. But consider buying some of that stuff from my store maybe? thegr5store.com I also have some mark2 kits on the way and should be here in a few days.

Well make sure it comes with a teflon insert first then.

I don't recommend this unless you plan to never print PLA. If you get the 1.75mm version I'm told it has some teflon in it and this is great. But I hear the 3mm version of the e3dv6 is all metal which really sucks with pla. I've heard other people say the same thing - e3dv6 is great for ABS and such but not for PLA. PLA will stick to metal and cause you all kinds of jams and headaches.

4 minutes to 60C is about right. 15 mintues to 100C is about right also. If you are printing ABS you really need to enclose the printer as well and 100C isn't really quite hot enough - 105C is much better (less likely to warp off the bed). You can just use a box and place it on top of the printer without any cutting/taping of the box - if you can find the right size (the boxes you find near photo copiers that hold many reams of paper are perfect and need no modifications). And cover the front of the printer with saran wrap or similar. This should help it heat slightly faster and also the air inside should reach about 35C which will improve your ABS prints. Also with ABS you want the fan no higher than 3%. 8% is almost the same as 100% on the um3 fan (I don't know why) so you really need to go down to about 3% or even 1% on the um3 fan with ABS. If you don't do this your parts may look fine until you break one and realize how weak it is on layer lines (bad layer bonding).

Which version of cura? For which printer? This sounds like a custom printer so you can mess with the "start" gcodes in the machine settings. You can change these to whatever you want and cura will remember.

Well after 2 hours you might as well power it off and on and see what happens even though it tells you not to. At this point it's obviously stuck and nothing is going to change until you power cycle it. You might have to contact your reseller or use the "unbricking" methods referred to in the link above.

I see you have infill at 99% yet it's hollow inside. Is it important to be hollow inside? Basically you gave the walls a thickness. Which I hope is what you want. Probably what you want. But maybe you didn't also give the ceiling a thickness? Look at the part in xray view as well. If you see any red then that's the problem right there. Or if the ceiling is thinner than .1mm (your layer height) then that would explain the problem. If you see red then you can fix the model in cad - it has either not enough walls or too many walls. or that top wall is infinitely thin (and it plans to print it infinitely thin, lol). Or you could try fixing the model with a free service. But it sounds like you know CAD so maybe fix it in your cad software.

By the way, PLA doesn't really need all this but PVA and Nylon need it so bad I like to limit the exposure to air to just a few inches. I'll have to photograph my setup the next time I do Nylon.

If I finally understand then an arrow that points to the filament coming out of A2 and says "half twist"?

Oh - maybe now I get it. So A2 filament - as it is drawn out - has a half twist such that it tends to want to curve the wrong way.

I simply want two different minimum layer heights. One for top and one for under surfaces. This will only change maybe 3 lines of code in the current algorithm but add yet another cura parameter. Personally I would probably choose 0.06mm minimum layer height for top surfaces and 0.1mm mimimum layer height for overhangs.

To make this clearer - the A2 area should show the yellow filament coming from the TOP of the spool.

oh. Right. I get people confused. @ghostkeeper - please take note - my post just above this one.

I suspect the silent step sticks don't need smoothing but I don't know for sure.

Oui! Dans 3.2 beta.

@ahoeben take note: 1) feature request - 3d mouse support (how hard could it be?) 2) Also there is a bug if you uncheck "zoom towards mouse direction" and then you orbit the field of view - it orbits around a pivot point in the rear corner. Even if you don't actually zoom (I think). Certainly if you zoom only with the "+" button on the keyboard it still messes up the pivot orbit point.

What kind of filament? This has happened to me mostly with PET and also with meltink brand PLA. For small parts the solution for me is to just remove all the glue. For large parts that really need glue I make sure it's a relatively thick layer of glue. For me this is most likely to happen if it's a very very very thin layer of PVA. You might think you have zero glue on there but there's still some left. To get it all off you really need to run it under hot water for a minute and scrape it off with a scratchy sponge. So I put maybe one stripe of glue stick on my glass. Then spread it around with a wet paper napkin so it was very thin. This was fine and did lots of prints. Then a few weeks later (20 prints later) I decide it looks like a mess so I use a wet paintbrush to spread the PVA around more equally (making it even thinner than before as some of the pva left with the 20 odd parts). THAT is when I started having parts remove glass. The fix is to add more pva. Or remove it all. Note that glue stick, wood glue, hair spray - all use PVA as their primary ingredient.

This is a known bug in cura 3.1.0. Fixed supposedly in older or newer versions. Certainly in the 3.2 beta this should be fixed. It doesn't affect Ultimaker printers so the bug wasn't caught I suppopse in QA.

I think you should just use the latest version in branch Marlin_v1 referred to above. It's good enough.

That's not helpful because there are no tags called 2.6.2. I suspect it is byte for byte identical to the 15.02 versions. You could use a program like winmerge to compare the two files. Does has a compare utility (diff?) built in and unix has lots of them. If you look around the cura install folders you shuld be able to find several ".hex" files that are named things like umo, umoplus, umo_hb, um2, um2ext, um2go, etc. Find the one for the umo and see if it is byte-for-byte the exact same file as the 15.0X version. Probably is. Except maybe the version number and build date? Maybe? Probably.

Okay. What I learned so far. The 15.02.1 version is easy to find in git because daid tagged each of these in git each time he released one. It turns out that 15 of the builds are identical including 15.02, 15.02-RC1, 15.02-RC2, 15.02.1. And 15.04.4. And more. So these version numbers have more to do with Cura than with Marlin. I suspect this is still the latest code today for UMO. The ONLY change made to this branch since then is that Ghostkeeper changed the makefile to be "more reliable" in february of 2016. None of the actual source code has changed since january of 2015. This is the branch I'm talking about: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Marlin/tree/Marlin_v1 As for figuring out what comes with cura 3.1 (or cura 3.0.2 beta or whatever). I'd just install it. I wouldn't print with it but if you install it then you can use your ulticontroller to see the version (do you have an ulticontroller? If not you can check with pronterface). In fact you can use *any* arduino I suppose and check the version using pronterface. That way you don't have to lose any eeprom settings on your current printer while doing the research.

First let me say that it should be obvious but took me TWO YEARS to notice that the version number relates to the date. So "15.02.1" implies 2015 February and the ".1" means this was the second version built and released in february. I think. Or it means it's the first version. I think "15.02" would be the first version and "15.02.1" is the second. Maybe you already understood that but if you didn't - then this helps greatly in the research. I'm going to post this and then go look in github as I have some nice git tools I use daily and am familiar with.

@JohnG - this is harder to diagnose than you might think. If the nozzle clogs it will grind. If the filament grinds it will appear to clog. It's hard to tell which is the cause. For example if your print has tons of retractions (I did an eiffel tower with a half kilometer of retractios - a half kilometer!) and the same piece of filament goes back and forth through the feeder too many times that can cause the issue and the fix is to reduce retractions (cura lets you specify how many times through the feeder). But this is just one of many scenarios. So your problem may come back again.

@foulkn - sorry - I read it too quickly. The title of this topic mentions and the first post shows UM3 so that confused me. Your problem is "not the same problem" and should have been a different post but whatever. If you click on extruder1 and extruder2 in the top right in cura in layer view it makes the model darker/brighter. Brighter shows which models are printed with which extruder. Maybe you accidentally clicked on the button just above where you change between solid and layer views which assigns one of the models to one of the layers. Maybe you should just start over and avoid those 2 buttons. I think it would be helpful if you posted some screen shots of what you are seeing in solid view when you click on each part and when you click on "layer 1" and "layer 2" in the top right. And note which button is highlighted above the layer view button. I also use cura in Ubuntu. Yah Ubuntu! But sometimes the (assign part to extruder) icons go all fuzzy and I can't read them and I can imagine you clicked on one by accident.