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Those thin yellow lines? That is a known - very very serious - bug in Cura 5.4. Use Cura 5.3 or any other version until the fix has been released. My understanding is that this is the absolute top priority bug to fix in Cura. Maybe. Probably. I'm actually surprised Ultimaker didn't just shut down downloading of cura 5.4 because of this one bug.

when I say "speed" sometimes I meed volume per second. So increasing only the layer height is doubling the "speed" if that's what I mean by "speed". Other times I really do mean X and Y speed. There are settings to control the number of retractions on the same spot of filament. I've had to use these when, for example, I printed the Eiffel tower with it's hundreds of separated girders. It's a problem for Voronoi prints (google image search if you don't know what that means), and any print where there are hundreds of "islands" on a given layer. Like when printing hundreds of vertical fencing bars in an architectural model. The settings are: maximum retraction count minimum extrusion distance window I like to set the window to the same length as the retraction distance (I think it's 8mm on an S5). And then the count is set to how many times the same bit of filament can go back and forth through the feeder. 10 is a very safe number if the window is 8mm. The S5 can usually do 20 on a filament that doesn't grind too easily and if you aren't printing "fast" (there's more pressure in the print head so there is more grinding when printing faster). In my experience you will almost certainly fail (by grinding the filament to dust) if you set the count to 40 (and you have that many retractions in 8mm). Meaning the same spot of filament went back and forth through the feeder wheel 40 times. You can even set it to just 5 which should be very safe. This way Cura does as many retractions as possible unless you hit this limit so this will reduce the stringing and blobs on your print.

Did you change the printing speed or layer height? If you increase the layer height you should probably decrease the printing speed by the same amount. I doubt the retraction speed is the issue. You can probably go to infinite speed and the printer firmware should limit the speed to a safe amount. There may be too many retractions. Are you printing something with hundreds of small islands on the layer that fails? More likely you increased the layer height without slowing down the speeds. Type "speed" in the settings search bar and it will show you the 7 or so printing speeds. I prefer to print with the same speed for infill, inner, outer shell, top and bottom. So I would put the speeds back to default, then lower the fastest speed (usually infill) by 33% (assuming you increased layer height by about 33%: 0.2 to 0.28mm). Make sure all the speeds are below that speed. You don't have to lower all the speeds, just the ones over that limit (the limit of fastest speed X 0.2 / 0.28). Or set all the speeds to your current outer shell speed (and also make sure they are all below that stated speed limit I mentioned).

Also I usually only follow a topic for one week so if you wait another 2 weeks again before replying, 99% chance I won't see it. So send me a direct message if you reply more than a week from today.

Please answer my question number 3 above. A) You may have the wrong firmware and it thinks you have a um2go. Question 3 above answers this. B) You can try a FACTORY RESET which is an option in the menus. Sometimes the distance to move down before giving up gets corrupted and factory reset fixes it. C) The steps/mm may have gotten messed up. FACTORY RESET fixes this D) You may have plugged the fan cable into the wrong place on the PCB under the printer - there is a place for a jumper which makes the Z axis move 2X slower so the Z axis is moving at half speed and half distance desired. Did you remove the fan cable and then maybe put it back on in the wrong spot?

Actually increasing the layer height without going for a larger nozzle (.6 or .8) might be bad also. It's the feeder you had trouble with so it's probably the volume of filament that was too much for the feeder.

Retractions are only a problem if you have tens of thousands of retractions. Do you have tens of thousands of retractions? Do you have many hundreds of retractions in just a minute or two? Doubling the speed is a huge red flag. There are I think 7 speeds? Did you double all 7 of them? Search for "speed" in the settings search box and it will show you all of them at once. If you want to print faster, don't increase the speed, instead increase the layer height or use a bigger nozzle like a 0.8mm nozzle.

After a week with no posts I drop topics so I'm leaving this one. If you reply to me, please send me a direct message with a link back to this topic.

I'd put the right core in and out many times and watch the mechanism and understand what has to move, then try to get it out the left side. For example instead of squeezing the "trigger" you can push up on the nozzle with one hand and then pull from there and pull with the clear part (and trigger) all at the same time. Realize you may break the heat break but you need to get this out. Then throw it away. It's not from Ultimaker and it shouldn't get stuck. Or don't throw it away but try putting in a genuine UM core first. If you still can't get it out, I'd probably take the head completely apart and you may need a heat gun or even just a hair dryer to get the PLA up above 60C to then get it out. Videos on disassembly of print head here: https://www.ultimakernasupport.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004226246-Printhead UM3/S3/S5/S7/UM3extended all take the same cores. They are all interchangeable. Your printer should have come with 3 cores (two AA 0.4 and one BB 0.4). It may be that there is still some PLA in the head from the head flood and that is why the core got stuck. You can get genuine cores from places like Matterhackers. Learn how to NEVER have a head flood. Never. Before you do an unattended print.

PLA prints very fast at ABS temperatures (which are hotter temperatures). Most of these plastics get thinner (less viscous) the hotter you go. I'm worried you are printing too cool or too fast but as long as you aren't messing with speeds and temps, the existing profiles should be fine.

Is there any chance you are accidentally printing ABS with PLA temperatures?

Check the front fan. Heat up either print core and by the time the core gets to 60C the front fan (not the side fans) should be spinning. Push the head around to see if it shuts down when the cable is twisted one way or another. Jiggle the main cable a little to see if that affects the front fan. Open and close the front door to see if that affects the front fan. You say tensions is correct. Sometimes people reassemble the feeder wrong but if the indicator is centered then it's assembled correctly. Is it centered? Another issue is speed. You may simply be printing too cold or too fast. Another issue is retractions. For example when I printed the eiffel tower I had over a kilometer (yes a kilometer!) of retractions and that ended up grinding the filament because there were retractions non-stop and the same bit of filament went through the feeder too many times. Please reply to all my points and if none of these help I have a much longer list.

Hopefully @ahoeben will find this thread as I have no idea about the logging.

I didn't think I was condescending. I was just remarking that it would be a good idea to start a new topic. And I said "please". 🙂 Please assume all people are smiling when you only see their text. 🙂 With text only it's difficult to know their emotion so please assume people are neutral or happy and if they seem condescending or angry assume you are wrong.

In fact please start a new topic and then link to it from this topic. Just in case there is more discussion.

yes. It's not too bad. Slightly buggy: I think you might have to manually level twice in a row or some similar annoyance. Every time you change either nozzle you have to level again. It does not remember the "old" leveling (because you may have turned the screws in that time). Other than that it works pretty well and I did manual leveling for about 50 parts over a month until I decided to go back to active leveling (because I change cores quite often and it got annoying).

The problem is that many of these people have corrupted blocks as part of the formatting data (not sure what those blocks are called) , or partition data (I think it's called the partition table) and need to reformat. Because the partition itself or the formatting itself has bad blocks. So changing partition sizes is great because hopefully it forces a repartition and also a formatting. For people with this particular issue. If the bad blocks are only in regular files then no formatting is needed. Just reinstall the firmware. Fortunately the flash drive can detect bad blocks and automatically remaps them. Unfortunately it doesn't know what the data used to say so the data in the newly mapped block is corrupt (or probably all zeros? still corrupt).

FYI I sell heated beds for the um2go. the power supply would 100% fail if you turned the 106 W supply on full time but the tinkerGnome firmware for UM2go can handle this as it has power management features that can limit the heated bed to 60% on-time (60% X 106W is about 60W). The firmware turns the mosfet switch on and off about 20-100 times per second. I've experimented with this and the power brick doesn't care if you go way over the max power if it's for just 0.1 seconds. It's the average power over a full second or two. So you should be fine. Set the power management such that the budget is 60W, and then tell it that the bed is 106W and the nozzle heater is 25W (or whatever it actually is - UM2go original equipment is 25W heater for the nozzle). The power management feature will take care of the rest. If you don't do this, worst case, is that the power brick will shut down and then power back up after a second or so and your printer will reboot. I think the 100W will be fine until the moment the servos start moving. With a 106W heated bed you will have much more current going through the mosfet but the same board is used in the um2go and the um2 which has a 100W heated bed. So you are fine with that issue as well. Tinkergnome firmware is wonderful for many reasons. anyway you can get it here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases I've met him personally. Great guy. He is also somewhat active on this forum as @tinkergnome

I'm confused if your issue is that the printer doesn't print them very well (or at all) or if you are having a problem with the slicer. Please show what you mean with either a photo of the first layer or if you never actually print (because the issue is clearly cura) then a screenshot of PREVIEW screen in Cura. And actually please also post the project file: do menu "file" "save project" and post that file.

120W but if you are using the power budget feature - it only accounts for the heaters so for the power budget I think we use something like 60W? I forget but the default power budget value for the um2go is a good value to use (I'm talking about the tinkerMarlin firmware which has this power budget feature so you can have a heated bed on a um2go and not over tax the power supply).

He is indeed awesome! 🙂 And appreciated.

1) So during calibration it goes all the way down just fine? 2) Did you read this article about ER05? https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667411295373 3) Go into the firmware version screen. Under advanced maybe? Look around and there is a screen that shows the version number and name of the firmware. Make sure it says "ext" in the firmware name. If not maybe you have the UM2 plain printer. Also make sure there is no "+" in the firmware name if you don't have the UM2+ext and just have the regular um2ext. (plus has white feeders, regular has black feeders).

I'm going to link in an ultrafuse expert: @SteveCox3D Steve are there some easy tricks to print ultrafuse in cura 4.13? Choose some generic material and set certain settings and scale the part?

Oh. Ultrafuse. right. There are expansion features in a recent version of cura which isn't in cura 4.X. You can just manually scale x,y,z the right amounts using the scale tool in cura but it might be easier to use the right version of cura. I suspect it's called "ultrafuse 5.2" because before cura 5.2 the feature is either missing or has some simple but serious bugs in how it did expansion in earlier versions. When I say "expansion" I mean that you have to scale up X and Y dimensions because the part will shrink in X and Y (but not Z and a different amount in Z) when it gets sintered.

@Dustin might know. Oh wait. So I believe marketplace items (pugins, extensions, materials) all have a version number range built into them saying which version of cura they are compatible with. When a new version of cura comes out I believe that usually all you have to do is the owner (ultrafuse I guess?) would have to update the version. Although rarely/occasionally there really is an incompatibility. So I think someone from Ultrafuse needs to update it. Is there a way to force install it even though it says incompatible? I suspect the only correct answers are: A) contact ultrafuse and urge them to update, or B) downgrade cura. Try the latest Cura 4.X maybe. Or whatever version you were using before.