gr5

I replied to cca1. I will have the boards up on my store soon. I'm hoping they arrive to me this week. My kit will include magnets and screws, extension cables and circuit board. The only other thing you need is to get a plus kit or build your own equivalent or use an old "non plus" that was replaced by a plus kit. I only sell to usa, canada, mexico with a very few exceptions (things in my store not in any other store). My store: thegr5store.com

@iRoberti has dealt with this I think. I think maybe he uses a hair dryer? Don't heat up the BB core above 150C because PVA at 200C will quickly (many minutes) turn into a clog.

@nokian - the developers are very busy and won't add a printer to the profiles unless you make it very easy for them. As a minimum you have to create the profiles yourself and test them. But that might not be enough - better would be for you to get a github account, clone the repository and make your changes, push them into your repository and then do a PULL request. It's easier than it sounds. And it's a good learning experience if you are a programmer.

This is very vague. A photo would help. I'm going to guess you mean looking from the side the part tilts. Read this - 4th photo down on left side: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Almost certainly the stl file. Look at it in xray view carefully. There's probably a hole in the stl file at that layer height. If you see any red color in xray view then that's a problem.

The latest cura has this feature 2.* but you will have to configure it for the airwolf. If you google around the internet maybe someone already did this for you. If you aren't printing near the edges of your print bed (the hardest part is loading the shape of your build platform) then customizing cura 2.* to an airwolf might be doable for you. Certainly there are customizations for other printers so you could look at what they did (what files they edited) to get that to work. That's much more informative then looking just at cura by itself. If you do a nice thorough job you can then post your changes here in the forum and it will likely make it back into a future version of cura.

A friend broke his delrin and I gave him mine and then I just made one out of a plastic box I was going to throw away. If you have sheet plastic of the right thickness you can just cut it up with a drill and other cutting tools.

@neotko mentions that foehnsturm himself has seen this leaning parts issue. It is still probably a mechanical issue but maybe not pulleys. Maybe lost steps due to high forces. The docking magnets are quite strong and overcoming their force in order to undock is one possible issue. But some people have the head hitting part of the dock (or the side blocks hitting the dock) and that can cause lost steps in the other direction. If your tower leans *towards* the dock then try putting a layer of blue tape between the magnets to reduce the magnetic force a tiny bit. If they lean *away* from the dock then look for things hitting during the docking maneuvers.

Well when you get large parts you will have trouble with them sticking to the bed because you aren't squishing the bottom layer very well. In other words this problem is going to come back to you. Even though they say to use paper I recommend you then get even closer by another .1mm as if there was no paper in the leveling process. Retraction for bowden machines like the ultimakers is typically around 4 to 5mm. For printers where the feeder is mounted right on the head it's much smaller - typically 1mm but every printer is different. z-hop is great for delta printers but for "box" printers it tends to give you worse quality. There is a "first layer combing" feature somewhere so that you can do combing on every layer except the first layer - but not sure if you can do it the other way around, (all layers but first layer), lol.

@rudydg and @melka - My first thought is you have to tighten your pulleys some more. I've seen this lean many times. When it goes to pick up the other head the forces are higher and maybe one of the pulleys slips a bit. It even makes sense that it leans left if your tool changer is in the front right corner. Rudy's leans the other way - is your head in the left corner rudy? My second thought is you are doing so much force when doing the tool change that it loses a step occasionally. The X and Y steppers are 5 steps (not microsteps - full steps) per mm. But if it lost 1 step on every other layer (every tool change) or even then it would lean 1mm for every 10 layers (or maybe 1mm for every 20 layers if it only loses a step when picking up and not dropping off the second head?). That seems like more than you are seeing? Or is that about right? Of course the more it leans the farther it gets from the proper tool change location and so that starts to fail also (doesn't pick up the second head). Or it could indeed be a software issue but this seems unlikely. But maybe. When you change tools does the firmware just add the offest to incoming gcodes like it should? Or does it actually change the internal position of where it thinks the head is? The latter method could slowly add up to cause lean errors. Anyway I strongly strongly recommend you tighten the hell out of all the set screws in the pulleys. They need to be REALLY tight. The hex wrench should twist a little and if you use an L shaped wrench your fingers should hurt after. And most important to get the 2 short belts - the one on the motor and the one nearest the motor.

@nallath can you forward these to the appropriate dev?

Did you do the Z leveling? If the nozzle is just a tiny tiny bit too far from the glass then the filament will stick to the nozzle instead of the glass. If you *did* already do z leveling try pushing up on the glass during the first layer to see if that helps. If it helps then turn the 3 screws the same amount CCW to get the glass a little closer to the nozzle.

is polysupport PVA? The only risk is that it might melt/burn/caramelize inside the nozzle. But if you do some cold pulls as instructed it might work. If you have the 3dsolex hardcore then you can just change nozzles if you clog one up with support material. Plus it's easier to clean out a nozzle if you can remove it like you can with the 3dsolex hardcore.

I think you need to reboot the laptop also. The USB is probably in some weird state - or some weird baud rate - or maybe the microscope software has taken over the USB and so you can't connect to the printer anymore. A laptop reboot should help.

I strongly recommend you get the ulticontroller for the UMO. It allows you to put the print job on SD card so that the printer doesn't need to be connected to any computer while printing and you don't have to worry about windows update or dozens of other issues like this.

By the way if you don't believe me you can probably just push up on the bed a little and see the improvement while it's printing.

I looked at the new photo. I watched the two videos. Your nozzle is still too far from the tape. Do you have a leveling procedure? If so your procedure needs tweaking. Do you have bed leveling screws? If so turn them all a bit to move the bed closer to the nozzle.

@shaun167 - If a material won't stick to the glass, try cleaning it very well with water soap and then window glass cleaner. do this in a sink. Then re apply some glue stick and spread it around with a wet tissue. Put it back on the printer and heat it up and wait for the water to dry (by the time it hits 60C it should be done drying or seconds from completely dry). More importantly also you need to squish that pva into the glass when printing the bottom layer. I personally turn off auto leveling but if you use it then watch the first layer go down. If it's not getting squished flat like a pancake then turn the screws WHILE IT'S PRINTING. Turn each of the 3 screws the same amount CCW. About 1/4 to 1/2 turn should be enough usually. I have a whole video about this so you can see me doing it in action. It's a long video but it's full of useful facts for getting parts (including pva) to stick to the glass very well:

Hmm. Usually this is because of thin walls but these look pretty thick. I'm guessing the model has lots of holes in it and sometimes those holes line up with a layer. Cura is called a "slicer" for a good reason. It starts each layer by intersecting a plane with the triangles found in the STL or obj file. Each intersection results in a line. Cura tries to combine those lines into loops for a given layer. Sometimes the loops have holes or openings because the object you are modeling has holes in it. If the holes are very small then scaling the part slightly moves where the lines hit the holes. Try looking at the part in xray view and look for tiny red spots (zoom way in). The red indicates something wrong with the model (either internal walls or holes on the "surface").

Well your answer changes depending on version of cura. There are "hidden" settings in cura 2.* that you can expose by clicking on the gear. It's probably there that you are having problems. Printing speed is convered into the "F" command (for feedrate). Unfortunately that is in mm/minute. Not mm/sec. So multiply and divide by 60 to convert back and forth. So after you slice, open the gcode file and search for those F commands. Some control Z movement so ignore the ones on Z only or E only moves. For example: G0 F600 E1000.473 <-- that says to change speed to 10mm/sec (60*10) and then move to extruder position 1 meter plus .473mm (the extruder value tends to just keep increasing forever). Whereas G0 F6000 X10 Y10.1 <-- that speeds things up to 100mm/sec and tells where x,y should go. The infill is often done at a different speed as some of the shell and the outermost shell is often a third speed. You can see this both in cura and in the gcode file. Now on the printer itself you can set the % speed. This takes those F values and increases them by the percent you say. So set it to 300% to print 3X as fast or 10% to print 1/10 as fast. There are a few exceptions! In cura there is a minimum layer time. Typically 5 seconds. If you are printing something very small it might normally print that in 1 second so cura slows it waaaay down. This is likely your issue. Also due to accelration limits short line segments never actually reach the feedrate. So sometimes changing the % doesn't speed things up as the feedrate is the GOAL speed, not the actual constant speed. Although usually the goal is reached on most printed shapes.

I don't know if humidity is causing your issues or not. I'm just not experienced enough. So maybe not. But I do know that PVA can sometimes stick to PLA but it's hit or miss and you are MUCH better off having pva go "all the way down" to the glass. So increase the hell out of "horizontal expansion" until it's all connected. Regarding humidity - I have a gas oven but if you have an electric oven try that - I've heard great things about preheating nylon to dry it. I forget but I think it's only 1 hour. Don't know about pva as that has a much colder glass temp.

Yes. It's not mandatory. In fact if you measure how much it is moving up and down add that amount to 4.5mm and that should be your normal retraction. But it's better to just fix it. If you are lucky it will take all of 10 seconds. Remove the clip. Push down on the collet (the ring) and remove the bowden. Then while pushing down on the collet push the bowden back in and then lift firmly on the collet while pushing down (I found needle nose pliers help with this step) and then keep holding the bowden up and put the clip back on. If this doesn't work cut off 3mm off the end of the bowden and try again.

Also don't just set the power requirements manually. Think about what you are doing. There's no reason to lie about the actual power usage of the bed and the nozzles. So you should only be messing with the budget. The lower the budget, the less power you have for nozzles and bed. Consider oiling your axes. The stepper controllers in the UM printers use more current if you fight the stepper.

Note that UM sells two different ALMOST identical power supplies. But I finally realized the model number differs by one letter. The one with the T seems to turn itself off (hiccup - brief power off) more often and is more sensitive. I avoided using the "T" one for 6 months. Now it's in use ONLY for my um2go which doesn't need as much power.

You have a few problems including the one you mentioned. All of them are fixed if you move the nozzle closer to the tape. You need to squish that filament into the tape more. Also - unrelated - but the filament will stick better if you wash that blue tape briefly with a paper tissue soaked with rubbing alcohol (aka isopropyl alcohol) to wash off the waxy surface that i assume keeps the tape from sticking to itself when it is rolled up.