gr5

Heat both nozzles to 150. Get a hair dryer and heat the mess up. Pull it off with some tool such as toothpicks, small screwdrivers, needle nose pliers. Also before you do any of that pull the head to the front of the machine. If it won't move, turn off power. It will move with power off. The cause of this was probably that your ABS isn't sticking well to the glass bed. Try using "abs glue" (google it) or mix pva glue (glue stick or hair spray or elmer's glue) with water and spread it over the glass and let dry before printing again.

Looks like a bug. I strongly recommend you never use raft. It's an old feature from before the discovery of heated beds. It's no longer needed. The reasons are complicated but I'll go into it if you are really curious.

It should not move at the head but if you look at the top of the arch of the bowden it should move from pushing hard on the "ceiling" of the bowden to gently resting on the "floor" at the top of that arch. In other words the pressure should be removed at the head but no actual visible retraction. If air gets in the nozzle then you get other problems.

It depends how small you want to go with the fonts. Fonts are tricky. Make sure you pick a non-serif font. Like Arial or Helvetica. The serifs look bad when printed as some won't slice. Neo can print 2.5mm tall letters with a .4mm nozzle which is almost impossible. With a .25mm nozzle you should be fine. You can lie to the printer about the nozzle size. In other words simply set line width to 0.15 with the .25mm nozzle. If you really need a smaller nozzle than 0.25mm for text - you should probably just not print text that small. To avoid stringing and such as Neo says I would print quite cold - 180C or maybe even cooler - when printing the fonts and when printing with .25mm nozzle. I also recommend printing the text first. On the bottom layer. That way if it messes up you can cancel the print and start over and not lose much time. You will have to tweak the 3 leveling screws a bit. Consider playing with flow rate also. I found flow rate of 140% worked well (in tune menu on um3 while printing) for small fonts. .6mm nozzle is for lower quality but faster prints and .8mm even faster. These nozzles do great for thick layer heights. Everlast is only for abrasive filaments: CF, glowfill, steelfill. Woodfill I believe is fine with brass (not certain). The symptom is that the tip of the nozzle gets sanded flat and the shoulder (the area around the print hole) gets wider and wider and the print quality gets worse and worse. It's easy to see when you know to look for shoulder width versus nozzle hole size.

You are underextruding. Assuming there is nothing wrong with your machine there are 2 basic causes: 1) Feeder not tight enough. Try tightening the feeder tension screw quite a bit. 2) Printing too cold or too fast. Try printing at half your current speed to see if that helps. Here are suggested printing speeds/temps. Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle (UM Original, UM2, UM3): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA.

Well there's not much different between cura 2.4 and 2.5. However there are some bugs related to "clean installs". When you uninstall cura 2.4 it still leaves junk in the appdata folder. I recommend exiting cura 2.5, then deleting everything in the app data cura folder (something like C:\Users\username\AppData\Local\cura) and then restarting cura 2.5 (no need to reinstall).

Most of those settings in the profile are (or should be) formulas. Cura is wonderful in that you can create formulas in the profile settings. So if a setting is dependent on layer height then it should be a formula. The second problem regarding collision with other layers - well Cura should force a given Z height range to be a fixed layer height. So you can change layer heights as you move upwards on the part but you can't say print a standing figure with the left leg one layer height and the right leg a different layer height.

I didn't look but I was told that we can change layer height now in cura 2.5. You might have to enable that - the per-object settings by default only has a few visible but you can turn on several more that aren't visible by default.

You might need a new one. There are a few videos showing how to take it apart and replace it out there. I see you are in USA (do you know a "king_george_fn"? I know a moocow on AOC) so you might want to buy one from my store. The basic problem is something is loose. These go above 200C and even 250C (melting point of normal solder and pure lead solder) so they can't be soldered. Instead they are crimped (inside that metal cylinder). Sometimes after repeated heating and cooling the metals no longer hold the wire to the pt100 chip very well. Before buying anything I would take the bottom cover off and find the temp sensor wire and pull it off and ohm it out with an ohm meter. It could be that it's just loose on the board. But most likely it's failed inside the metal cylinder (the end inside the block) and not worth trying to break open and repair). Did you by any chance try to remove it from the block once? If so then you could have broken it at that time. It is very hard to get them out without breaking but I have the technique down. I"ve done about 15 and only broken about 2. None recently. My store is thegr5store.com. fbrc8.com also sells temp sensors for um2. If you don't already have an Olsson block or block v3 this is your chance to replace that at the same time! And get a 35W heater while you are at it if you don't have the "plus" upgrade yet.

It's probably a glob because it's printing too high off the print bed. Usually each printer has a little bit of customization that goes into Cura. I have no idea what a "maker select plus" is. Do they have their own special version of Cura on their website somwhere? Already customized for your printer? Or are you using some other slicer?

Which printer? Advice is very different depending on the printer. Basically though this is usually easy to fix. It's usually a loose wire. On UMO it's probably on the head near the green screw terminals.

It's allowed to do email addresses but spammers grab up emails from web pages and this is a web page. I don't want his email spams to jump by 100 per day. Yes, change "_at_" to "@".

Other people had this exact problem and fixed it by upgrading video drivers. Or use a different computer maybe?

Having it save and generate gcode doesn't mean much. It might just be a few lines of code. There are MANY reasons why it might not print part or all of your model. It would help to see a photo of the model in layer view and in normal view. Check your "line width" setting to make sure it's not something crazy like 10mm (it should be about the size of your nozzle - typically .4mm). I guess a screen shot of your settings might help as well. I'm confused thought what slicer you are using. You said it works in 2.4 but not the app? Did I get that correct? Again I've never used the app so if it works perfectly in all versions of cura except the app I guess I should shut up.

You can setup a static IP. One way is to put the um3 in developer mode, ssh into the printer, and you are now in a linux environment. Using google you can learn how to setup the ip address. I suspect you want to read about connman but not certain.

Yes you should be able to print nylon. It's important to squish it very well into the glass so maybe turn your 3 leveling screws CCW a half turn (and with autoleveling off!) to get it to stick extra well. Also use some pva glue (glue stick, hairspray or wood glue mixed with 90% water) and make sure it's very thin so if you use glue stick then take a wet tissue and spread it around well until it's all wet and very thin and let dry. Nylon shrinks quite a bit but because it's more flexible than PLA it doesn't need to stick quite as well to avoid warping. That flexibility helps it stretch a bit to spread out the forces. But also use brim. That helps it stick well also. It helps keep the air from slipping under the corners.

There's a circuit board on top of the UMO. That converts thermocouple to a voltage from 0V to 5V to represent 0C to 500C. If you insist on using a thermistor first realize that most can't take temperatures above about 230C. Secondly you will have to bypass that board on top of the printer and instead run a cable ALL the way from the thermistor - along the bowden - under the machine - and plug it into where the current temp cable connets. The current cable is 3 wires (power/ground/signal from head). The new method is just two wires (don't connect to power pin - but use the other 2). Also like amedee says you need to add a 4.7K resistor. google "Ultimaker 4.7K" and I think you'll find photos of where that goes for bed sensor or head sensor. Don't get the 2 confused.

I was able to fix this but forget how. It was probably the "support x/y distance" parameter. Or maybe turn off brim.

Layer view is your friend. You can see the part in layer view. In the top right region you can click on the left or right extruder and the layer view highlights in brighter colors what will print in that material. As a hack, if you can't get the slicer to do it, you can slice for pla but print with pva but alter the temperature (first find out default print temp for pla and pva then put the offset into the tune menu when it starts printing).

I have never seen this. I recommend also asking your reseller. But yes I would immediately change the usb stick to another brand. Get the smallest you can (I think I use a 4GB one right now but not sure). Does it get this part way through the print? It's possible to continue a failed print if you keep the bed hot or part will pop off. You have to know right where it failed (Z value) and then you mostly just edit the gcode removing everything up to that spot but keeping the very first bits. But I'm worried the gantry will knock over your very tall print when it goes to prime the nozzle. I dont' know how to disable the nozzle priming on the UM3. I've never continued a large print on UM3. Only UM2.

I used to use a pump but not anymore. I just leave it overnight and the next day there is tremendous progress. Sometimes still not done if there are deep cracks.

The power brick that comes with all Ultimaker printers can handle 120V or 240V. Just like most modern laptop power supplies.

Call reseller. You need a new circuit board. The smaller one. The red one.

Was this your first install ever of Cura or did you already have an older version installed?

Something is wrong with your model in those areas. Look at your model in xray mode. If you see any shades of red then thats a problem (either a hole in the wall of your solid or an extra infinitely thin internal wall. Most cad programs don't make it possible to create non-solids but sketchup is the opposite - they make it tricky to create solids. I don't know cadia. But even if you don't use sketchup - the photos in this article make it clear what I am talking about: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/