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1) Mainly I disagree with the calibration card. I recommend using no card and having the nozzle touch the glass barely. If you experiment you can do this consistently even more accurately than the card. This results in a MORE SQUISHED bottom layer. 2) Yes. Just do it. Anytime. Power on. Power off. while printing. Anytime. No need to calibrate anymore as the bed is probably quite level - just a little too far from the nozzle. PLA is more agreeable than PVA. You are probably not squishing the PLA very well either but because it has a little more tolerance you don't notice. 3) Yes! This tutorial shows all these things - how to just adjust the 3 screws. How I do the "no card" calibration. How to apply glue 3 different (and all excellent) ways. It's long but full of great information!

Flow should only affect the E axes. But if you are at the speed limit of the E axis (I think you are - this is VERY fast flow rate because your layers are so thick - 1.1mm) then increasing flow means you have to slow down the x,y,z axes. The E axis can't go any faster so instead the other 3 axes slow down. You might be able to increase the maximum E velocity and still print just fine. Usually when people tune the axes on a delta they pay more attention to the x,y,z axes and less attention to the extruder. In Marlin - in the menu system - under "motion" maybe? You should be able to set "emax" which is maximum E velocity. if you go too fast the extruder will make a funnty noise and not extrude at all. It's not bad for the printer but of course the part won't print so well. I would play with that. I would set emax to 10X your current velocity and play with flow rate until the extruder fails.

Try it without any support. It will be okay - just need a few minutes with a file. If you really want to do support with the simplest tool then definitely go for meshmixer. Tutorial: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ pay particular attention to how to rotate your part in the "annoyances & limitations" section and also note that there is a small error where he set layer height to "0.5" mm and it should be the layer height you print at e.g. .2 or .1mm.

I believe (I could be wrong!) this product is no longer being manufactured and so when stores run out I think they will all be gone. However try fbrc8.com. Contact them through their email. They are very responsive. Include any serial numbers of this kit if the kit has a serial number. Are you good with soldering? Someone on here can let you know that part number and you could just fix it youself if fbrc8 doesn't have any left.

I hate heater error. I disabled that error on my printer. Which firmware version do you have on your printer? You can check from the front panel in the menu systems. ======== heater error (as opposed to error stopped - temp sensor) You get an error if the heater can't move a certain amount in a certain time while driving full power (when it is close to goal temp it typically runs well below full power): Firmware Version 14.09 - does not have the feature 14.12 oct 16, 2014 - feature introduced. 20C in 20 Seconds 14.12.1 dec 15, 2014 - from 20C to 10C (still in 20 seconds) 15.01 jan 14, 2015 - from 20 secs to 30 secs (now 10C in 30 seconds)

You didn't answer if you have many retractions. When you increase flow it increases the amount the extruder moves: FOR ALL MOVES. Including retractions. So if flow is 200% and retraction distance is 4mm then it will retract instead 8mm. Moving a further distance takes more time. The purpose of retraction is to keep the nozzle from leaking when it is moving but not printing. I'd like to see what the part looks like. There is a feature in cura called "minimum layer time" I think. Typically I set it to 3 to 5 seconds. I think default is 10 seconds. If a layer takes less time than this then cura slows down the speed until it is > "minimum layer time". This code that slows the print down might not be smooth - it might have discrete speed changes. I don't know. Your printer has many values built into the firmware (Marlin???). Here are some of them: max velocity for X,Y,Z,E (4 settings) max acceleration for X,Y,Z, E (4 settings) max "jerk" (instant change in velocity at junctions) for X,Y,Z,E (4 settings) So far that's 12 settings. Also there is a default acceleration built into the firmware for X-Y-Z, E (2 settings) this can be changed with cura 2.X but cura 15.X and most slicers don't set this - it defaults to whatever marlin uses. Also delta printers are complicated and need to convert long arcing movements into multiple sub-moves. This code needs to do trigonometry (e.g. sin, cos, tangent) and so uses up excessive cpu time such that if you print faster it splits a move into fewer sub-moves but then the "jerk" parameter takes over and can make the printer go slower potentially. I don't want to get into this but it can affect long moves the most. Please explain how many retractions you have. Please explain more about your part geometry. Please say what firmware you use.

If you were in USA I could fix that for you. 3dsolex has spares of that part you bent. You could ask for a custom order to get just that part and try to replace it yourself. I have a video of how to take that all apart without breaking anything: Damn. Can't post videos with underscores or maybe an 8 followed by a D. Paste this into youtube search: um3 ultimaker 3 core disassembly The cores are amazingly delicate where you bent it. Realize that inside that area 3mm filament has to pass through so those walls are very thin.

I don't know the ultimaker app but Often models have holes or or walls too thin to print such that when you slice you get nothing to print. Therefore I recommend always looking at the model in layer view to make sure it will print the entire model and to make sure it will print anything at all. Does the app agree that the print is 0 minutes long? Does the app agree that it will use 0 filament? If so then it's the model. Try the full version of Cura and look at it in slice view.

PVA is trickier to work with than PLA. The basic problem here is that the second nozzle is too far from the bed. Either rerun the calibration procedure and do it manually and make sure the two nozzle are exactly the same height. Or maybe they are the same height and you just don't notice it so much with the PLA. So option 2 is to raise the bed just a little bit by turning the 3 screws counter clockwise about a half turn to get the filaments (both pla and pva) to squish a little better into the glass. They should be flattened like a pancake. Squish is the main problem but it also helps to put down a layer of PVA glue. Use the supplied glue stick and put down just a small amount (back and forth maybe 4 times with the stick with most glass getting nothing) then spread it around with a wet paper tissue. This wet tissue will help make it very very thin and also remove some pva which is good. Heat the bed to 60C until it's dry (just a few minutes).

Does the WASP use Marlin? I have spent many hours looking at the motion controller for Marlin and 3 other firmwares as well. They are surprisingly complicated. Since you only changed the flow (E=extruder axis) that simplifies what could have caused this. Some possibilities: 1) max acceleration for E axis 2) requested acceleration for E axis 3) max E velocity 4) E Jerk 5) retraction Regarding #5: Do you have lots of retractions? If so try reducing the retraction distance in the slicer by the same amount you are increasing flow. So if you set flow to 200% you can cut retraction distance in half. #3 I suppose is the easiest to check. photograph the extruder and look at it's speed during your print. Then try moving the E axis all by itself at top speed and see if it can go any faster. It could be your print is limited by E velocity. Regarding #2 I don't have any ideas unless you also changed the flow between tests.

Actually I don't think you need pronterface. In the advanced menu I think you can home the Z axis and check that the nozzle is just barely touching the glass. Then I think you can move the Z axis also in those menus somewhere. The tinker firmware is better though in that it shows you exactly how far you have moved. I think the standard firmware might not tell you that. So maybe you *do* need pronterface. Or tinkerMarlin.

I doubt it's cura but you could open the gcode file and search for the letter Z. It should typically be setting Z to 0.3 (0.3mm above the glass) on the bottom layer. If not you might have some cura settings messed up. How much does this distance differ? Did you calibrate the Z? Did you use the paper method? You can calibrate it such that the nozzle is touching the glass also - that's how I usually calibrate. I still don't know if your problem is that your calibration is a bit off, or if your z axis is moving 2X as far as it is supposed to. There are many causes for each of these issues. If you are good with computers then I recommend you install pronterface to help sort this out: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ (do you have a pc? I think pronterface might not work on mac) After installing and launching it, connect your computer to the printer with the USB cable. Connect to the computer with pronterface (that's the hardest part sometimes - there are many possible com ports - maybe look in device manager and a com port should appear when you plug in the computer). Try homing Z using pronterface. Check that the nozzle is just touching the glass. Then move to Z=10mm and measure that the nozzle is roughly 10mm from the glass. Doing those two operations will let us know if you have a Z home position error, or a Z steps/mm scaling error.

It looks like the nozzle isn't touching the print bed when you start the print. Is it? If it is then it looks like pretty soon (second or 3rd layer) the nozzle is *above* the print instead of touching it on future layers. So the nozzle should be touching the glass when Z=0. There syhould be some kind of calibration procedure for this. What kind of printer is it? Or you Z screw is moving much to fast such that when it should separate the nozzle and glass by an adittional .2mm it is instead moving maybe 2mm. If you think it's this second problem then move the Z 10mm and see if it actually moves about 10mm with some kind of ruler. Again - what kind of printer is this? Please put your printer type in your settings. It's okay if it's not an Ultimaker printer.

I guess I would indeed use pva for that. Does your pva really hang over air like in the second photo at the top of this topic (left side of part)? If so then that's a problem right there. Play with support settings - maybe increase horizontal expansion for support or decrease distance between support and part. And try the prime tower in the back center. If the tower is falling over you should concentrate on that issue. Mostly move the rear screw half turn CCW to really squish that first layer of the tower into the glass. Bottom layer squish is critical to getting parts to stick to the bed.

>he heater is a 12v 40w. WHAT?!! Is this a 12v heater on a 24V printer? If so that would be 160Watts (not 80W). I don't think the power supply on the UM2 can handle that at the same time as heating the bed. Could it possibly be a 24V 40W heater? Maybe you should measure the resistance. Wattage is VV/R (voltage squared over resistance). If it's 40W at 24V then try my PID values for 40W heater above.

If the filament isn't adhering to the plate but instead the nozzle then almost certainly you need to move glass closer to head. While printing the bottom layer push up and down on the glass to see if that helps. If so then just rotate the 3 leveling knobs the same amount. Please put ultimaker2 in your settings so I dont' have to reread every thread I post in and can just double check what printer you have by your name.

yes, pva is very hard to work with. I've had these same issues. If the pva absorbs a lot of water you can hear it crackling/sizzling as it prints and boils the water. More likely the pva just isn't sticking well to itself or to some layer of pla. I'd like to see a photo of the pva nozzle when it's not printing - how much leaks out before it starts printing again? For me it's about 1/2mm. One fix for this is a prime tower. You will still get these "holes" due to pva occasionally pooking a hole in your pla walls. But put the prime tower in the back center (not back corner where it defaults) because it is more likely to stick well near the leveling screw (back center) and so is less likely to fall over and make things even worse than without the tower. Having said all that I'd like to see what your print looks like after you dissolve all that pva. I suspect you don't need any support for this print.

Unless you are driving a car over this I don't think strength is an issue. A 200 pound human should be able to stand on that I think if it's made out of PLA. I agree with Didier though that the second orientation is probably best. Make sure you look at the part in slice view. Make sure the bottom layer is squished well and even push with a few pounds of force sideways on the 4 supports to make sure they won't come loose during the print. You want those 4 legs to stick like hell. I would use zero support on this part. Will save you a day or so. the underside of those arcs will be ugly but you can just file that off in a few minutes. Consider printing a 1/10th scale version as a test.

That looks like a model/slicing issue. Always look at your prints carefully in slice view before printing. Does it have weird issues in this area in slice view? For example maybe only printing every other layer?

Please mark in your settings that you have a UM3 as I was assuming this was UM2. This is interesting. This is a new one for me. Please take some photos with the fan door open and closed. I'm thinking the cores *did* move the tiniest bit. Keep in mind that -6 is probably something like 0.06mm. Not a very large amount. So to be able to see that kind of movement visually will be very tricky. HOWEVER, what you describe earlier sounds very different - it sounds like the head reached it's limit in either X or Y. Could this have happened at the very start of the print during homing? I guess you need to get the problem to be more repeatable and describe exactly where the head is when it happens and which way the print is offest. With pictures please also. The HORRIBLE noise that the printer makes when the heat hits an edge and the steppers keep going sound like your printer is destroyed but it's actually mostly harmless. This has probably happened to every UM printer out there and very few actually had any kind of damage. One of my printers has probably done this 30 times now with no reduction in quality.

I'd like to see a photo because about 60% of the time I give advice and then I see the photo and I have to retract everything. However from your description you need the glass and the nozzle closer together. Too big a gap explains both parts coming loose (aka warping) and also the brim not sticking at all. You need that first layer to squish more. Don't re-run the bed leveling procedure. Instead just turn the 3 bed screws a half turn CCW to move the glass up. More details in this video:

Well it's basic underextrusion. Judging by bottom layer I'd say about 30%. I don't know what causes underextrusion in a prusa. Basically high friction. The feeder could be faulty. The temperature might be too low (pla too viscous). There could be high friction inside the head - is there a teflon part in there? You need to move to a prusi i3 forum and ask about underextrusion causes. The UM2 has over 30 causes. Prusa probably has just as many but 3 or 4 of them cover 90% of problems.

It may be normal about the fans although I admit this is a very common problem. The fans on the sides often don't turn until you are on the second or even 5th layer. Try going into the TUNE menu during a print (or even before it starts when the printer is warming up) and playing with fan speed there. If it still doesn't work it's almost certainly in the connectors just above the head. Cut or slide back the plastic netting and there are white connectors in there. Two of the connectors are connected by a short loop (about 3 inches). Those go to the two side fans. The third fan - you should test that also - that should turn on either when power comes on or anytime the nozzle is above 50C. The x-axis is skipping? Can you provide more details? Like this? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide Like 9th (pink) or tenth (gray) photo at the above link?

How many watts is your heater? Here are some suggested PID starting values for various wattage heaters in the UM2. These values can be off by 30% and often still work fine as they are kind of self correcting somewhat but can oscillate if they are too far off: 25W PID 10, 2.5, 100 35W PID 7.5, 1.8, 75 35W PID 8, .5, 33 (neotko recommends) 40W PID 6.5, 1.5, 60 50w PID 5, 1.2, 50

Well those gaps are on the bottom layer. Do they persist on every layer? Probably not. I think you just need to level the glass and nozzle closer together. I don't know but does the prusa i3 have leveling screws or is it autoleveling. If autoelveling then that really sucks. I'm not a fan of autoleveling as you can get inconsistent results plus you have no control over the bottom layer and with this bottom layer so underextruded your parts are BARELY sticking and can easily get knocked off during a print.