gr5

Someone may correct me but my impression was that if you are talking less than 5 machines you should go with a reseller in the US that is education friendly. I think printedSolid.com is one of them so maybe contact them. If you are talking say 100 printers for a school system or a county or something then definitely you can get a discount.

BLAME THE SPAMMERS ON 500 Apparently the 500 error is because of a new spam filter which is great for me because there were like 100 spams per day. But apparently *every* post goes through the filter instead of just ones by new users. And the spam filtering service is a separate web service and if it takes one second too long I guess we get the 500 error. So this should hopefully be easy to fix. BUT WE WOULDN'T HAVE THIS PROBLEM IF IT WEREN'T FOR THE DAMN SPAMMERS

The M117 change in machine settings I assume is for non ultimaker printers only. But why do we have to change maximumLength from 10 to 32? That's not good because then the next cura update will delete that. Is that because the M117 line is so long? Can't you make the M117 flag shorter please? The MAZ plugin should search for "printing..." anyway to know when to start. Also will MAX plugin work if you print 2 objects in "one at a time" mode where the Z height goes back to 0.3mm when one print finishes and before the second one starts?

Nothing. Except (for me) a better user interface. You can see everything in a compact format.

It is possible a virus wrote itself into cura after you downloaded it. It is also possible that there is a virus in the official version of cura. But most likely there is no virus. Virus software use a kind of signature and often there are "false positives" meaning software that just happens to have a few of the same bytes as some virus. Still to be safe I would use a different version of Cura.

yes, bondtech feeder is great!

First of all, pull the head to the front of the printer and look from the back. YOu can touch it to see. Is it possible it just appears to be twitching but in fact is spinning in a blur? Twitching sounds like a broken fan to me. It does not have a speed control - just on/off and is not controlled with software but hardware I think (older UM2s just turn it on when power comes on). It's possible it's plugged into the wrong socket on the PCB. There are detailed assembly instructions for the UM2 somewhere on this website including where that cable goes. I think that fan is a 5V fan. I have some spares if you need one. Email me directly at thegr5store _at_ gmail.com. They aren't in my store but I have a few. They don't have any connectors on them so you would have to solder it onto the old connector. You could put 5V across it to test the fan. I screwed up and put 7V or so and destroyed my fan in about 1/10 of a second.

This looks fantastic.

If you buy an olsson block or a block v3 from me you get a free nozzle cleaner tool. Diameter .35mm. thegr5store.com. It's so nice to have the option of simply throwing away the nozzle.

If you don't have an olsson block or block v3 then I suggest that. It makes it so easy to just remove the nozzle and clean it out (or throw it away) (I usually put it in a flame - with ABS by now it's probably cooked to gum like conssitency but a toothpick can probably get it all out - or you can burn it all out).

I've seen other people with this exact same problem. It has to do with graphics drivers. See if you can update your graphics drivers. If not you are out of luck.

It's almost always a problem just above or inside the print head where the fan connectors are. As neotko suggests.

@RayvenMaker - sorry no those nozzles aren't long enough in the threads. But I *do* sell the hardcore which is like a UM core but where you can change nozzles easily. And I'll sell you just a DIY kit since I know you now know how to take it apart and put it together without breaking the delicate steel core. Or you can get a complete core already with the hardcore from my store and I'll pay you for your broken BB core. Or you can send in your broken BB core and I'll upgrade it. 3 choices for you if you are interested.

Also write down the values you chose for given combination (AA BB and AA AA) and always keep the same AA in the left side (mark it or just never ever take it out). Then if you do a print where X and Y position errors are more obvious you can skip the calibration printing on the glass like above and just enter a new value. But that only works if you remembered your old value I think. So write it down.

Are you talking about the XY calibration? Or the Z calibration? Anyway for XY calibration if you are entering a value larger than 5 or -5 you are probably doing it wrong. Don't even look beyond +/- 10. You want the pair of lines that are lined up the best. In the picture below I would say (assuming camera is perfectly overhead which it probably isn't but ignore that) -1, -2, -3 all look about perfect so choose the one in the middle: -2

Isn't PLA great? So that's underextrusion you are experiencing. Most likely printing too fast and/or too cold. What temp where you printing at for each material and what layer height, nozzle size and print speed were you at? Those 4 things combine to tell me if you should be able to print that kind of volume/second at a given temperature.

Brass is a metal but the bottom of the brass nozzle will wear out quickly if you print abrasive filaments. You can however get a steel nozzle for UM3 cores. Since you are in canada you should get it at my store: thegr5store.com.

Well I see two issues - the tripod legs are underextruded. I'm really not sure why that looks so good yet the part just above and below looks fine. Maybe you have infill speed set at a higher speed. That could cause the tripod legs problem (and also the stringing issue). The other issue is what I call "stringing". That shouldn't happen. It could be several things: 1) It could be cura is not doing retractions because it really hasn't printed much since the last retraction and one of the settings in cura is how much filament to print before retractions can occur. This keep the exact same spot of filament from not being retracted hundreds of times. If your retraction distance is 4.5mm and the minimum print before retraction is 0.45 then it will do no more than 10 retractions (4.5/.45) on each spot of filament. But for this part I think you need to lower it. In cura 15.X you can check in layer view as retractions are shown as vertical blue lines (strange but it works for me). 2) It could be that your have a long bowden or a large inner diameter bowden or a loose bowden (when you pull up on it it shouldn't move up and down - if it does it is not properly seated in the print head or feeder). If so maybe increase your retractino distance from default of 4.5mm to say 7mm (but of course if there are no retractinos here then that won't help). 3) lowering temperature helps reduce stringing. 4) Printing slower reduces the pressure in the head and so reduces strings. This will help with underextrusion and other quality issues. Try printing nice and slow at say 25mm/sec.

Please next time post a picture instead of an imgur link that will not still be around 5 years from now when other's might come looking at this topic.

That shouldn't be happening. Please show a 5 second video demonstrating what you are talking about. One though: cool head lift? Another: pauses? Maybe your filament is just a bit too hot. Or maybe too much pressure in the nozzle. A video would help a lot.

Actually zooming in maybe this *is* as good as you can get with white filament on horizontal banding. The remainder quality will look better at 0.1mm layer height.

@renarj please update you profile to show that you own a UM3 so I don't have to read your first post everytime I forget. Um - UM3 can do better than that with ABS. That looks like Z axis issues, or maybe temperature fluctuation. You can go into the tune menu while it's printing and see if it's fluctuating a lot - it would have to be at least 5 degrees to see that kind of difference in layers. More likely your z axis isn't always moving exactly 0.2mm when you ask for 0.2mm. If it moves less then you get a somewhat overextruded layer that sticks out a bit. If it moves more than .2 then underextruded and sticks in. Usually the fix is to clean the Z axis. This can be a frustrating thing to get perfect though and you might actually have to somehow figure out if it is the Z nut, the Z bearings, the Z rods or the z screw (z screw is least likely the problem). Pushing it up and down repeatedly and feeling if it binds (higher friction somewhere) might help. Some people put a brick or something on the back of the platform and sometimes that helps. Google about Z screw issues on UM2 and you will get basically identical answers for any possible um3 issues. People are often lucky - a quick 2 minute clean with paper napkin and suddenly it's all good. Also white and black filament shows up horizontal banding more than other colors in my opinion.

I'm just worried that with your simple "on/off" method it will extrude too much when turned on. There is less control. Whereas with the Joris method you don't need to buy any hardware and you get fine control of extrusion amounts. Plus you are less likely to damage your circuit board.

Where can I get adhesion sheets? I heard staples has something but I don't know what they are called at Staples.

Oh I found it: http://www.structur3d.io/