gr5

What do you mean by "nucleus"? I would normally think that means the center but how can you clean the center of the PVA filament?

My mom, age 87, my wife, my daughter and many others are at the #womensMarchBoston right now. My other daughter is at the one in Washington DC (you can see here in the photo above.... at the end of the street to the left). Zoom in and look all the way to the left at the end of the street. Okay - just kidding - you can't see her. This photo taken about 60 minutes ago. #WomensMarch (photo taken from roof of voice-of-america building).

I think the guy confused ultimaker with makerbot and 3dsystems with stratasys. I have the same problem - problems with names.

To remove the print core make sure there is no filament in the "trumpet" (that top part of the core). Then let it cool completely. then lift a bit on the nozzle while you squeeze the finger things together (the black and clear tabs). And then pull out firmly. If you are removing the right hand core I think it helps to lower it first but it probably doesn't matter.

Let us know if you are able to unclog the BB. Your issue could be several things. If you changed the default profiles and lowered the pva temp or if you sped up the pva printing speed you can get this grinding. But most likely the nozzle is just a little bit clogged. It could also be that the pva got too wet possibly if you spilled water on it. That seems unlikely. There are other possibilities if these don't fix the problem.

I changed my settings so that the infill speed was the same as the shell speed and that helped me quite a bit.

I've heard that noise before. It's nothing to do with the feeder - it's the stepper making that noise. It just can't keep up. I don't know what the solution is. Actually I do - don't load filament that way. Typically the solution would be to try to cool down the stepper drivers a bit. Instead just push on the feeder tab and manually load and unload filament. I don't use that silly menu item "load filament" or "change" or whatever it says.

Yes! soon. Can't say more.

It's basically the same stupid code. It should do the same thing. I'm 90% sure Marlin ignores G1 versus G0. No difference. One is supposed to be "linear" and the other "fastest" but Marlin *always* moves linear (none of this X axis gets there first crap). Anyway G1 versus G0 means nothing. relative Extruder position versus absolute extruder position should be no difference also. The only difference of any consequence is that the move afterwards is 250mm/sec travel versus 150mm/sec in S3D. That can definitely make a big difference. It can make a big difference in the move before that. Like I said earlier - there is a bug in Cura on speed changes. I'm thinking the 250 (plus a bug in Marlin I know about) is the problem. In the cura it's doing a 180 degree turn in the Y axis and jumping from 30mm/sec to 250mm/sec at the same time. The way the "jerk" code works it will limit the junction speed to I beleive 2mm/sec. Maybe the entire coast section is limited to that - not sure. That would explain it. Lower the travel speed to 100mm/sec just to see what happens. I guess I should point out this bug to someone someday. Hmm. I have a nice fix for it but writing it, testing it, and doing a pull request is a lot of work.

Well I just checked and you are right. Cura 2.X took the feature away. Well that sucks. So you need to multiply the layer height X nozzle width X speed. Or use Cura 15.X.

A photo would be nice but it sounds like your glass is too far from your nozzle. Turn the 3 screws the same amount CCW - try 1/2 rotation. More details here:

Also you have to restart cura after you create or modify Cura json files to get cura to read them in again.

The photo you showed of the diamond pattern in the filament is normal. That indicates you have a good tension on the filament. 60mm/sec at 210C and .2 layer height is quite fast. That's about the limit I can do on any of my 5 UM printers. I would never print that fast normally - I prefer to go about half that speed. Here is a table of limiting recommended speeds. ere are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C Of course the printer can indeed print that fast but barely such that the slightest problem can cause underextrusion and even failure. In your case I agree it was the tightly wound filament near the end of the spool which adds to the friction both in the bowden and especially in the teflon part in the print head. However I recommend printing either thinner layers or slower speeds or higher temperatures.

30% means nothing to most of us. 30% of what? The default cura speed? Well what's that then as each version of cura has a different default speed plus you need to know the layer height as usually we care more about *volume* versus linear speed. In cura 15.X you can hover over the linear speed to see the volume. I think cura 2.X might have this feature somewhere also. For 0.4mm nozzle I consider 1 cubic mm/sec to be slow and 10 cubic mm/sec to be about the limit of the machine (you can always go faster if you raise the temp and modify the feeder but many machines can't even do 8mm^3/sec let alone 10). Larger nozzles can print larger volumes. Smaller nozzles - smaller volumes.

FYI fbrc8.com made your printer - they assemble all the UM2 and UM3 printers sold in USA. They sell spare parts as well (although mine I like to think are better: thegr5store.com). I don't sell filament. Colorfabb is my favorite filament. Their ngen is great also but pla/pha is amazing stuff. printedsolid.com is my favorite seller of this since I know the guy personally. It's better to get a good quality filament like colorfabb versus cheap brands although even many cheap brands are okay. In particular you have to watch out for diameter as UM only prints up to about 3.00mm (3.1 much to thick!) and 90% of "3mm" filament is actually 2.85 or 2.90 but a few rare manufacturers call it "3mm" and it actually *is* 3mm. Mostly chinese manufacturers.

Ah. A delta. that changes things a bit. Still the speed changes comment is relative. I would go in and replace all speed changes so it doesn't change speed at the coast point. Remove the F720 (or change to F900) or if it only happens on faster layers remove do the similar substitution there (with global replace). I'm looking forward to seeing the gcode from s3d.

Um... @jimpeyton - I've seen this problem 100 times and seen it fixed 100 times. It's very simple. Neotko gave you the correct answer a week ago so no one added much to that.

But without 24V the temp sensors work fine. If 24V is not working then K1 is almost certainly the culprit. But limit switches no connected or shorted out can also potentially keep the servos moving also (at least in one direction).

Also we are comparing cura to cura here. It would be nice to compare s3d to cura to see how s3d implements coast. But only if my suggested test doesn't yield anything useful.

Looking at the gcode it looks like it should print fine. Basically it is drawing an approximately 9mm trace and then coasts the last .5mm meaning no extruding the last bit (looks like maybe a 10mm cube). However there is one striking thing. Having looked at the motion planner for Marlin hundreds of times and having poked through most of the lines of code repeatededly (and also looking though the motion planner for repetier and redeem) there is a bug in Marlin I found if you move twice in the same direction AND CHANGE SPEED. the bug sets the junction speed between 2 separate gcodes to an extremely low value in a buggy sort of way. This is the "jerk" parameter which limits changes in vector velocity at vertices but gets confused if there is also a speed change. Anyway I see you are printing VERY slow there so it seems strange but I would make all the speeds the same. So right now I see 15mm/sec for the printing move followed by 12mm/sec for the coast move. Try to make these speeds the same please. In fact for a test please make all printing speeds the same speed (I recommend 20-30mm/sec - I don't think there is much reason to go down to 15mm but 15mm/sec is fine also). However the nonprinting moves can still be fast but just for experiment lets keep them at 150mm/sec or slower.

>Its like asking someone to not use the glue because they might get it on their face, lol. lol! I do it over the kitchen sink. Or I do it the neotko way and spray on tissue. But usually I use wood glue as shown in my video above. I show all three glue techniques. Even with the glue stick, after putting some on the glass I use a wet tissue. Watch the video Another interesting technique which I have not tried is to use salt (salt water). It sounds like it works pretty well but I haven't compared it to glue.

We get a lot of spammers on here. The moderators take care of it so that you rarely can see any of them. They are usually blatant. I deleted 10 pages of spam today. the spammers don't realize that their posts are never visible to anyone other than moderators so they think they are successful. I'm hoping that will change soon. Sander has often joked that maybe we should allow the spam and Ultimaker should start selling penis enlargement pills. Anyway that one guy got through. He copied 3 posts somewhat randomly and changed a few words. It's extra annoying because I tried to help the guy with his question. Thanks to krys for noticing.

Just pick one of the instances where the machine makes the noise and find the 5 gcodes before and after that point. this should be easy to do - just print 2 cubes and it will retract between them. Do one shell width wall and no infill to keep things fast and simple. Ideally it will happen on the bottom layer. Then you can easily know where in the gcode the problem occurrs. Slice with both slicers and post the gcodes just before and after the event. I'm very curious about this. I suspect the movements have different feedrates "F" gcode from the 2 slicers and I suspect that's the primary difference. Although it's possible that s3d sets the acceleration or jerk parameters. Or cura might also set those. Typically acceleration and jerk are not setup by the slicer and that's a printer thing but there are gcodes for that.

Wait - neither motor ever moves? I would test that with pronterface first. If you don't do the home procedure you can place the head in the middle of the print bed (servos off) and then using pronterface click the x+10 button which should move the head 10mm. If it doesn't move then you have a problem with the 24V subsystem - I'm guessing the nozzle and heated bed won't heat up either. That is so easy to fix if that's your issue.

doh!