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Don't buy CF filament. It's no stronger and no stiffer. The CF is cut up too small to make any difference. I've tested some of these. It sure looks sweet though! Yes you will need a few steel nozzles and you will need a few per roll. Or get the hardened nozzles which last much longer. Anyway don't get CF but consider getting the Olsson anyway as you can then change nozzles and that's great all by itself. Which strength quality is a problem? If you want parts that aren't as brittle (can be dropped from very high) then you want it to simply be more flexible - not more strong. There are lots of great filaments for that. But if for example you are making a quadcopter arm then there isn't much (anything?) out there better than PLA. If you want it strong enough that a human just can't break it or can be driven over with a car then you want nylon. But still will not be good choice for something that needs to be stiff - like a quadcopter arm.

This is an EXTREMELY common problem but without a photo I'm not sure what you mean. It slips BOTH X and Y at the same time? That seems extremely unlikely. I'd really like to see a picture but here's one for you: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide 3rd photo down on right - bright pink. Like that? Sort of? That's loose screw on pulley - usually the one on the motor or just above the motor. Tighten the hell out of those screws. If you use an L wrench your finger should hurt a lot when you do it. You should twist the tool slightly - you should be afraid something is about to break. ALL SIX SCREWS on the axis that is slipping. UMO kit ships with replacement screws that are shiny silver. The ones in the pulleys are black. The shiny ones are much better (pointier) although I've been happy with the black ones because I TIGHTEN THE HELL OUT OF THEM.

No way to do comprehensive guide as people's desires are so varied plus you can't even recommend temperature as this varies even just by color of filament! layer height Anyway some guidelines - Printing up to around 50% to 75% layer thickness of the nozzle size is usually fine so for .4mm nozzle up to around .2mm or .3mm layers. For .8mm that would be around .6mm thick max (I'd stick to .4mm personally). And so on. e.g. I wouldn't go over .12mm layer height with .25mm nozzle. volume The area is the square of the diameter and resistance goes down linearly by the area so you can print faster (volume of plastic per second) on the "square law". Cura shows the volume if you hover over the speed (at least some versions do). So that means for example if you normally print .2mm layer .4mm nozzle 50mm/sec you can multiple those 3 numbers to get a volume of 4mm^3/sec . But with the .8mm nozzle you can do 4X as fast no problem. So if you should be able to print 16mm^3/sec easily (e.g. .4 layer height .8 nozzle 50mm/sec). and of course you need to print so much slower for the .25mm nozzle (or .15mm or .1mm nozzles) speed For very good dimensional accuracy (corners not blobby) it's best to keep the speed low. For really beautiful parts you want to go no faster than around 25mm/sec regardless of layer height and nozzle size. This has to do with speed changes at corners. The printer has to slow down to 14mm/sec on a right angle corner so only slowing by about 2X is barely a problem but if you are at 50mm/sec or faster the corners are noticably bulging. This is regardless of nozzle size or layer height. That's why it's so great to print with a bigger nozzle instead of just printing faster. temperature You will get consistently better quality at lower printing temps but this means you also have to slow down as it's harder to get filament through the nozzle. For high quality 210-220C is a good compromise. For extra high quality print extra slow (10mm/sec?) and at 190C. That way the filament is more like cement and is better at not moving in the second before it cools. But really 220C is my favorite temperature. For the .8mm nozzle and larger it's best to print hotter as it is hard for the heat to penetrate to the center (unless you buy a 3dsolex race nozzle) and so ultimaker recommends printing a bit hotter with .8mm and larger nozzles.

PEEK is very strong but you need a printer that can go up to around 330C. PEEK would probably actually work for this but I doubt anything else will - not PLA, ABS, NYLON, PET, XT, etc. There are CF filaments (carbon fill) but none of them are stronger or stiffer than regular PLA because the CF is cut up too small to help. But they look nice! I've tested many materials - they are all about the same ultimate strength as PLA - the main difference is in flexibility. The more flexible the more durable but that doesn't help with gears - you don't want it flexible because then it will last forever but it will also slip gears often. I mean nylon will last forever - no human can break a nylon gear without tools but it will slip due to it's flexibility. If you are a mechanical engineer and have solid works or other modeling program you can model the gear strength. The young's modulus, ultimate strength numbers are posted for many types of filaments plus I've tested these for a few filaments. Stick with gears from china.

You definitely have underextrusion. You might need a new teflon but whatever problems you have should be helped by printing much slower. Try 1/8 the speed you were at and then if it looks good slowly increase the speed in the TUNE menu on the printer.

Printing cylinders is pretty easy. Vertical round holes is much trickier. Please post a photo. Look at your part in layer view to see if there is something in the slicing stage versus the printer itself.

You have underextrusion. What material is this? PLA? Usually PLA doesn't peel off like that but that's common with ABS and easily fixed. Still - what material is this and what temperature (temperature is set on the printer, not in cura). I think the default temp is 210C and assuming PLA and with .3mm layer times .4mm nozzle times 50mm/sec that equals 6mm^3/sec. That's a bit fast for 210C and PLA. Try raising the temp to 220C and making your layer height thinner - try .15mm also slow it down a bit to 35mm/sec. That should fix much of the quality problems.

dropbox is free.

Well @prb4 if you want someone to fix this, please post an STL and the 2 gcode files created so someone can analyze what is different and maybe make an improvement to the latest cura. Really the entire gcode files need be posted as that will include any scaling you did, multiple objects, and will include all settings. You can't post them here so post them in dropbox or some other web site that you have control over (preferably not something that will only host the files for a month).

You have to turn off top/bottom infill also. That is not a vertical wall so the layers above/below are getting "top" or "bottom" infill. You can turn this off if you want but if the wall tilt is too extreme it won't connect if your shell is too thin.

Stick with the simplest test part. That ring looks great as you can make adjustments while it's printing. Try printing at 1/4 speed first and at 240C and up flow to 120% just to prove that it's really underextrusion. the difference from 215 to 230 while significant, is probably too small to see without really looking carefully. If you are getting this with the ring it is almost certainly underextrusion which can have dozens of causes. Here are a few - read every one and try to be very sure before you eliminate them one at a time: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp.

It could definitely be the tension on the belts - to tighten the short belts is easiest - loosen the four bolts holding the motor. Push down on the motor with a few kg of force while retightening the 4 screws. You many need to remove the metal cover first which is held on by 4 screws. However most of your part it *is* touching the walls. I would look at your part in x-ray view and make sure there is no red, and also look at it in layer view to make sure it looks like the infill is touching walls in layer view as I think this may be more of a bad model (not manifold).

18 frames! Might as well make it an animated gif then! I can't wait to see it.

yes. And there is the suggestion that having higher resolution means you can feed more precisely when printing really tiny amounts like making a tree frog smaller than a pea with a .1mm nozzle but I doubt even then it makes much difference. But I don't know. Maybe it helps.

I hope someone else knows more than me but I can tell you one thing for sure - enclosing the printer (even just the front) will help quite a bit. Just throw a big box on top, cover the front with clear plastic and let the bed sit at 100C (or hotter) for 20 minutes to get all the air up to around 40C before starting the print. Having the air at 40C instead of 20C cuts the shrinkage almost in half.

This is a common problem. You aren't plugging it in all the way because the circuit board isn't centered in the hole. Loosen the 4 screws holding the circuit board - just loosen them a little - then you can plug the connector all the way on (it latches permanently and won't come off unless you slide the latch on the power cord). Then re-tighten the 4 screws that hold the circuit board in place.

I've tested both. I even tested the pulling strength of the bondtech. It's much stronger than the UM2+. I forget exactly how much better but about double the pushing strength. Most people won't need to go over speeds that the "plus" feeder can't handle but the bondtech is just a delight in that it has so much power.

I think original poster just wanted "layer view" and hadn't found it yet.

I sell the conversion kit and you can get one from 3dsolex but if you can send the filament I strongly recommend you do that instead.

Some people cut the TFT smaller by the thickness of the i2k. I don't think it's necessary. If you choose to do this make sure it's very square - otherwise you can get leaking at the base of the TFT which will leak onto the top of the heater block.

Did you realize that 3 of us mentioned the back fan? Including in that post you claimed was useless, lol!

Good point!

Just 24V. The board converts that to 5V in some places and I think also 12V. The schematics are all easy to read and open source pdf here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1091_Main_board_v2.1.1_%28x1%29/Main%20Board%20V2.1.1.pdf

The power brick itself is cutting power. It is very sophisticated - I assume it actually has it's own computer. It probably has both a temp sensor in it and a current meter but I have messed with these causing them to fail on purpose and they will go VERY FAR over their rated values. So the 221W supply will go to 250W for several minutes no problem (at least the one I tested does) and will put out 400W for a few milliseconds. When they cut out they only cut out for less then a second. I suspect it actually trips on the voltage drop - when the output voltage gets down to around 23.5V or something like that it just shuts down and turns back on. This causes Marlin to reboot and not realize you were just in the middle of a print a second ago. The more accurate way to measure the current is to put your meter in amps mode and measure the current going through the wires (put the meter into the circuit). Or simply measure the resistance of the heated bed cold. It's not much different cold versus hot. current = 24V / R Wattage = 24*24/R When I did experiments I actually cut the power cable and inserted a high wattage, low resistance resistor in there and measured the voltage across this with an oscilloscope so I could see the exact current millisecond to millisecond.

Also - is this PLA? ABS can cook to a gummy gunk if you print too slow or too hot but this looks plenty fast enough.