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When printing this gray part in the "warped" region the left leg was leaning down too far and after it printed each layer the leg tilted over further and further. The printer kept bringing the leg "back" to the left to recover. It's a bit strange that it tilted so slowly and consistently. I'm wondering if it was above the glass temp in the base (bed too hot) but more likely it was peeling off the glass (not sticking well enough). The best fix is lots of cross bracing that your remove and discard after the print is done to keep things stiffer and less stress at the base of the print. I guess in addition you need more brim/glue/squishing to keep that part secured down onto the glass. Here's my standard spiel on getting things to stick like hell to glass: -------------------- lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model outline then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

I don't think you have underextrusion - at least not in the last 2 photos. Instead you are having troubles with overhangs. Colorfabb is less viscous - try much cooler - maybe 190C. Is the fan at 100%? You want it at 100% quite quickly as the overhang starts on the second layer. Also print even slower - try 35mm/sec.

This skirt was squished too much - see how it is transparent in spots?

You want it squished a bit. Here is an example where it is squished maybe a little too much - but still quite good. If it's more transparent (can see right through it and have trouble telling what color the filament it is) then it's squished too much). There is a tradeoff. If you level it such that it doesn't squish much the part doesn't stick well to the glass. If it squishes a bit more and is as much as this photo you get really good sticking on the bottom layer but the bottom layer sticks out a little bit so if it is a part that needs to be dimensionally perfect you might want to squish it slightly less so you don't have to file off the outer edge of the bottom layer. note that this is 2 passes on the skirt - not just one pass:

Oh yeah. That's such a common problem in the last 6 months. Filament sitting in a warehouse for 6 months - sometimes it's not so flexible after a while. Test your filament every month - bend it 90 degrees. It should not snap apart. If it breaks in the bowden it will cause your print to fail every time as the break reaches the print head and half the time it gets stuck there.

I lost track of what you tried. Did you try adding at least 1kg of weight to the bed? If not try that first to see if it helps. This might not be a final solution but it's a good test.

You definitely need to add some support structure to hold that all still while it prints. Have the support structure contact the main part only on a 1mm diameter spot. use some cross bracing to keep everything stable and steady as it prints.

@labern - I can see your confusion since you are upside-down on the underside of the earth. You must have to turn all the pictures upside-down to see them? Or do you just turn your computer upside-down?

@labern - it is in the orientation shown. He said as much. You can also see a little bit of brim that wasn't completely removed.

The left corner has more cooling because the fan on the left side is closer to the nozzle (is this UM2 or UMO? Please update your profile but still same answer just more so for UMO). If it's a UM2 then the front two beams get more cooling as when it prints one the other gets more fan but the rear one doesn't get as much fan. Were your fan(s) at 100% that is critical. I'd print it a bit cool - try 190C. And slow - try 35mm/sec. And with max possible fan. Also it would help to support that back strut a little higher up of course. The thinness is a problem like you thought but also the overhang is a problem. A perfectly vertical rod/strut is easier to print. Another possibility - where does it change Z layers. I would expect it to be random on these 3 posts but maybe it always changes Z on the rear one? And so it does 2 layers right in a row and the lower layer is still not cooled yet when it starts the second layer - so every other layer is placed on a liquid layer below. Anyway all of these issues are helped with more fan and printing cooler. It's easier to print 2 pyramids than one as one can be cooling while the other is being printed. You only need a few seconds (3 to 5) to cool but on this part you don't always get that much time. Let us know what you learn.

You didn't measure with the caliper the best way. The best way is to measure as many waves or threads as possible and then divide by the number of waves or threads. This gives you a more accurate result. That's what I tried to explain earlier. With your less accurate measurement I would say that 1.2= 1.4 to the accuracy of your technique and this is indeed a bad Z screw. It sounds like the left Z screw is worse but they might *all* be bad. I don't know any good way to test a Z screw other than to print a hollow cube and look for the waves.

If you pull the SD card out it will stop - the computer in the printer is an arduino and only stores about 12 commands ahead. For the layer height question - it will do 0.9 layer height. If bottom layer is .3mm (default) then that's a total of 7 layers (a .3 thick layer and 6 .3 thick layers). For this question you can ask Cura instead of humans and just look at it in layer view. To get extra smooth bottoms some people found it helps to print a thinner bottom layer - say .2mm or even .1mm. Also if you spread glue on the glass, you should use a wet tissue to spread the glue - if the glue is lumpy the bottom of the part will also be lumpy. If you print a bottom layer of .1mm then you need leveling all that muich better. Don't use the procedure but instead just adjust the 3 knobs while it's printing. Eventually you will get it perfect. There is a "pause at Z" plugin. It's fantastic - get it. It's meant for exactly this kind of thing - changing filaments at a given layer or inserting a part. Make sure the part doesn't stick up! If you want to do it the hard way, get tinker marlin - it's very very simple and easy to use and it gives you much more functionality including continuing a failed print, or showing the current Z position during a print. Having the Z value lets you sit by the printer until it is at the right height.

Another photo - this printer not so modified. Bowden goes all the way down to and inside of white teflon piece:

Like this - this photo is of someone who modified their UMO but the 3 green arrows point to the bowden. It should go ALL THE WAY down to the white teflon part. Not stop higher up. You can even see some red filament inside the bowden.

I don't understand how the filament gets from the feeder to the print head without the tube? You must have a tube or the filament will never be pushed into the head. You just need to slide that tube further down until it gets inside the white part.

If your fan was off then try 30% first. High glass-temp materials like ABS and XT will get bad layer bonding if you give it too much fan so if the fan had been off don't suddenly go to 100% otherwise you may get beautiful prints but they may be extremely weak and break easily along layers (bad layer bonding due to not enough heat to melt the new layer into the old).

More fan. I'm not an XT expert but what you show in the photos I usually call "bad overhang". It has complicated causes but the fix is always the same - print with more fan and possibly also lower nozzle temp. I'm guessing you had no fan and the heat from the bed had the XT above glass temp (sort of like melting point). Anyway it clearly was too hot so the overhangs didn't do well. If your fan was already at 100% then lower the nozzle temp but I'm guessing more fan is all you need.

Oh. Okay. Well there is a simple solution. But first this "starting inner shell at different spot" is because Cura tries to save time by starting the inner shell as close as possible to where it left off last which is probably a different spot on each layer depending on what it just finished. Um, it's hard to explain in just a few sentences - much easier to show in a drawing - but the point is it is trying to save a little time. Now - there is a cool gcode command: G92. This resets any axis to any position! It does just what you need. For example if you do: G92 E100 Then it is telling the extruder that "now you are at position 100!". If you then do a move to 101 it will only move the extruder 1mm (cubic of course). So what you can do is at the start of each layer reset the extruder position back to where the previous layer started. e.g. if the layer is like this: G1 Z1.1 /* move Z up */G1 X 5 Y 5 E7.3114G1 X 6 Y 5 E7.4114... Then add a G92 and set extruder to 7.3114 G1 Z1.1G92 E7.3114 /* tell extruder that it is now at 7.3114mm (cubic) */

Yes, L1 is an inductor. It is meant to discharge any static slowly to ground. If your laptop is truly not connected to anything such as an ethernet cable - then I'm very surprised - something is very strange here. I would measure the voltage of your USB with a voltmeter - measure the voltage between the shield and your house ground. Same with UM2.

I recommend getting the 35W heater instead of the stock 25W heater which has great variability and can be as low as 18W. Is it possible that your olsson block is touching the fan shroud? Check that also - often the bottom of the block touches the top of the fan shroud - look at it from behind the print head - see if you can slip a sheet of paper between Olsson block and fan shroud.

She. "she states". Chris is a young woman and is very smart. Very smart. I'm glad there is a firmware fix for this. The PID values tend to be stored in a special place such that upgrading the firmware might not fix it - you might have to also do a "factory reset" which resets all the eeprom values including the PID settings to their defaults (it also erases your history of how many hours you have printed so far and you lose your homing position).

I still dont' see the bowden tube. It should come all the way down inside your wooden print head and slip inside that white teflon part.

This symptom you show in the video is EXACTLY what I would expect if one of the 4 wires were bad. It means very very little power getting to the motor. The motor has 2 loops - 2 pairs of wires. One loop goes to the fixed coils and the other pair of wires goes to the loop that spins with the shaft. When one of the loops has no power there is still some left-over magnetism - enough for the motor to shake a bit but the motor will be very weak. If you help the motor a bit it can turn. Higher stepping speeds will have a little more power (more energy per second). Ohm out the 2 pairs. Each pair is twisted together. If you have infinite resistance on one pair but non-infinite (e.g. maybe 100 ohms? not sure) on the other pair - the infinite ohms wires are bad - the wire is most likely broken at the connector end or the motor end but possibly part way along the cable.

I haven't done this in a few years but try right clicking the "print" button. This feature may have been removed from Cura but I don't think so - it's just hidden slightly I think. You can certainly use other free (and better) software to print such as repetier host or pronterface.

The errors are too small to measure the error that way - if you move it 1.000mm it will probably move pretty close to that - maybe 1.010mm - that's enough error to see your wave problem but too small to measure. If you move 10mm, the problem is invisible because the error goes back to zero on a regular repeating pattern. Did you measure the distance between threads on the z screws? Is that the same distance between waves? Try this - print a small hollow cube near the left z screw and another one near the right z screw. If the left rod is bad but the right rod is good then you will see the wave pattern on the left cube but not the right cube.