gr5

You should tell us - don't be lazy please. Google it or start with this fact and you can do the math yourself: PLA is 1.25 grams per cubic mm - please let us know how many grams per meter of 3mm filament.

extruder won't move if nozzle isn't hot. You can disable this feature with a gcode: M302 (allow cold extrudes) or heat the nozzle to 180C

What's that transparent blue stuff? how you stretch it so tight and perfect?

How hot is it in Lithuania? What is the air temp? I recommend removing the bottom cover and adding a fan blowing under the printer.

That shouldn't matter. I think one of your pulleys might be quite as tight as it needs to be and the high acceleration on those jaggy lines is causing the pulley to slip. Is it slipping in both X and Y or just X or just Y? If just one axis you only have to tighten the 6 pulleys for that axis - most likely pulleys are the hardest to get to: the 2 pulleys on the short belt. So the one on the motor which is by far most likely to be the one - and the other pulley on the short belt. You can increase your skirt distance and the jaggies will be less severe but I suspect you have a pulley that on rare occasions slips.

Yes, that's good. That looks perfect - you want that feeder to have one hell of a good grip on the filament.

I listened to the video twice. None of the sounds seemed serious. Did you check that the two rods going through the head appear to be perpendicular? There are so many sounds - the quick vip when it does a travel move, the crunchy grindy sound when the Z moves to the next level, the rear fan, the side fans, the vibrations when it is doing infill, the hum of the steppers, it's hard to find crunchy bearing sounds among all that, sorry.

What's the problem? not watertight? Or you don't like the prominent layers? I'm going to assume the watertight thing - this is tricky - most people who print water tight items regularly like to overextrude - Joris is an expert at this with his cups. So you could set the flow to 150% - or even better use a larger nozzle. There's a guy in Oslo who sells alternate nozzles for UM2 at 3dsolex.com. I would be very tempted to use the 0.6mm or 0.8mm and overextrude about 130 to 150%. Best to do it in one pass instead of two .4mm passes.

That looks like severe underextrusion. Assuming that's the side of your model. There's many possible causes. What printer do you have UMO? UMO+? UM2? Other? Did you replace nozzle with another .4mm nozzle or a different size? It's important that the shell thickness is an exact multiple of the nozzle width - if not you get this kind of thing. This kind of underextrusion is most often caused by printing too cool or too fast - but first - what kind of printer? And secondly what temp, layer height and speed did you print at?

I strongly recommend using 3dhubs. You can choose which model printer (UMO, UM2, UM2GO, etc) you want and someone nearby will print your model and the price will likely be quite reasonable. When you go to pick up the model you can talk to the person who printed it and see their printer and ask them questions.

What? Don't do what you did? but it worked for you? I don't understand.

Doesn't cura already do this? When you scale an object in cura you can set the distance or scale factor. Try distance next time. Just change the largest number to 200mm.

Try take deep breaths and concentrate only on that. Then remember we are here to help you.

yes - that's very common. I've seen that many times. When it is thin enough it's very easy to remove with a candle or lighter or just pull them off with your fingers. Different filaments string more than others. I have found white filaments tend to be particularly nasty on this type of stringing.

The switches are only used in the homing procedure. So once that is done you don't have to worry about the switch failing 5 hours into a 30 hour print. but at some point if you have a friend with a soldering iron and some skills you should have them fix this.

If you have to replace one, Daid recommends pololu black: http://www.pololu.com/product/2128 More discussion here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4820-using-pololu-drv8825-stepper-drivers-on-a-um1/ http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1315-stepper-drivers-fried-replacements/

You can google "pololu current" and there are articles out there in the general reprap community that are better than discussion of this on the forum. There is a test point on or near the trim pot (depending on which pololu you have) and there is a formula to convert that voltage to a current. That is a reference voltage and the driver is careful to never go over that mount of current. I would disconnect the servo, measure the voltage and turn the trim pot the tiniest possible amount such that the value goes lower (lower voltage is lower current) and then continue in that direction and lower the voltage maybe 10% or so then connect it to the stepper. Don't do this while connected to the stepper as you can blow your stepper in well under a second if you turn the current up too much. Many people who mess with this have to order a new pololu (not expensive). That's probably why they are socketed.

No problem - the printer Joris messed with was a bigger deal: extruder plugged into extruder#2 so it wasn't turning, Z axis was at 2000 steps/mm instead of 200 (takes 5 minutes to spin the knob around 2000 times), heated bed power adapter was loose. But I had all 4 printers going at once this week printing up scans of teenagers at a 3D workshop a friend was running.

IRobertI has good advice - I wouldn't re-run the leveling procedure but definitely try unscrewing the 3 thumbscrews by about a half turn to see if that fixes it - this is what it looks like when the bed is just a little too far from the nozzle. But your other photo I think still had issues on the second layer so I didn't mention this.

This issue is about as easy an electronics issue as you can imagine. It's as simple as a light switch. Do you have access to a meter? Do you have a friend who knows how to use one? This is a 10 minute issue - not a 2 day issue.

@IRobertI - are we talking about the same issue? i think the issue was: "switch error, contact support" Right? So something is wrong with the wiring of a switch? Also this can be caused I assume by the Z switch. If you lift up the bed with power off you can see underneath there is a long screw - that screw fits into a hole in the bottom of the machine - sometimes a bit of plastic falls in there and the Z switch stops working. You can test it with a screwdriver or toothpick or inserting something skinny into that hole and listening for the click.

Just to explain why - the extruder is not good at speeding up or slowing down (or stopping) so you want very fast travel moves because... it's going to leak no matter what. So the faster you move the less will leak. That's why you want infill at the same speed as outer shell - if you have a speed change with the extruder it takes a little time to catch up (less than a second but that's still much too much) and the next 10mm of printing will be over or underextruded.

I let @SandervG have my printer for a few days when he was in boston 2 weeks ago and when I got it back it was making some weird noises (but printing fine). One of the steppers had skipped a tread on one belt and the two small rods that go through the head were no longer perpendicular. Fixed that and it's as good as new again. Didn't affect the prints as I did a long print before I fixed the noise. If you video the noise with your phone and post it we might be able to diagnose. But your retraction issue is more serious. did you increase or decrease the retraction? Also with some new printers people have been having troubles with E and Z axis which are fixed by *lowering* the current of all things! Very strange. M907 X1300 Y1300 Z1300 E1250 Does nothing because those are the default currents. You could lower extruder to 1200ma instead of 1250: M907 E1200 Just "hand" edit the gcode file and add those commands nearish to the top of your gcode file - the settings should get lost when you power cycle the machine. Not sure how to save those permanently without modifying Marlin (which isn't too bad but still...) But I think you should increase your retraction distance by 2mm from 4.5mm to 6.5mm to see what happens. If it gets *worse* then try 4.0mm, lol.

Wow - sorry you had to go through all that trouble! I've saved a link to this thread for the "next person" with this problem.

Yes. It couldn't do one 220X220 because of the clips but since one of your dimensions (172mm) is nice and small for the platform this is an easy print. Well, easy for me. The biggest issue would be warping off the bed - this is a solved issue but new people still struggle with it. Basically you would need to print some brim on the bottom layer that you can cut off with a razor after the print is done. You would need to use the heated bed at 60C and some glue (comes with the printer). You might be unsuccessful at first but post on the forums here and I'll help you get that cuboid to stick so well you will be amazed. Brim is a feature of Cura. I recommend you download Cura (it's free at UM website) and slice your cuboid and look where it places the brim (layer view) and where the clips are that hold the glass down on the print bed (they are shown visually in Cura) and you can rotate around and see it from different angles - you will have lots of margin. You can also rotate the cuboid on the bed. ABS is MUCH harder to print this large as it shrinks twice as much as PLA and I recommend PLA. You would probably have to enclose the top and front yourself to keep it sticking to the glass at those dimensions. If you want it water tight you will want to use a larger nozzle - I recommend a 0.8mm nozzle which can also print 4X faster (4X the area). You can get 3rd party nozzles if you as this forum how.