gr5

It looks like a shoe insert -- that is tilted up off the build platform. Can you "lay it flat" instead? Also you might want to sink it into the build platform a small amount if it's still not perfectly flat - this is under "advanced" "quality" I believe. Can you show this same screen shot but from the side view more? I think the object is only touching the build plate at one point. Also include the layer height slider in the view - that slider on the right side.

Those are just comments. They do nothing other than inform humans about things. @tommyph1208 - don't you realize you just got some kid to get to skip over doing his homework? Don't make it *too* easy or they won't know how to do the same thing next time.

I have a chunk of aluminum with 3 holes drilled in it. 1 at 4mm for a heater, 2 at 3mm for temp sensors. I put a random temp sensor in there and hooked them up to my UM2. Then I put the temp sensor to be tested in the empty hole. Run things at 260C and measure resistance of the sensor being tested when the temp is stabilized at 160C according to UM2. Use a PT100 table to convert resistance to temp. I tested 20 temp sensors and 80% agree with each other within 3C. After discarding outliers and taking average, I was a little lucky that the average was 260C meaning the random sensor I had picked was at the average. So I designated that one as the "reference" temp sensor. Also my chunk of aluminum is wrapped in a rag for insulation. Maybe I should have taken one at the low end after discarding outliers.

I had to to tweak my UMO Ulticontroller after about a year. There's discussion somewhere but it's pretty simple. Remove all the wood around it and inside is a potentiometer that you can rotate with a plastic screw driver. Play with that until display looks ideal. It adjusts brightness/contrast or something similar.

cut and paste response: lifting corners, curling corners, part sticking to glass 1) Make sure the glass is clean if you haven't cleaned it for a few weeks. You want a very thin coat of PVA glue which is found in hairspray, glue stick, wood glue. If you use glue stick or wood glue you need to dilute it with water - about 5 to 10 parts water to 1 part glue. So for example if you use glue stick, apply only to the outer edge of your model then add a tablespoon of water and spread with a tissue such that you thin it so much you can't see it anymore. wood glue is better. hairspray doesn't need to be diluted. When it dries it should be invisible. This glue works well for most plastics. 2) Heat the bed. This helps the plastic fill in completely (no air pockets) so you have better contact with the glass. For PLA any temp above 40C is safe. I often print at 60C bed. 3) heat the bed (didn't I already say that?). Keeping the bottom layers above the glass temp of the material makes it so the bottom layers can flex a bit (very very tiny amount) and relieve the tension/stress. For PLA 60C is better than 50C. 70C is even better but then you get other "warping" like issues at the corners where they move inward but if you are desperate it's worth it. For ABS you want 110C (100C is good enough). 4) rounded corners - having square corners puts all the lifting force on a tiny spot. Rounding the corner spreads the force out more. This is optional if you use brim. 5) Brim - this is the most important of all. Turn on the brim feature in cura and do 10 passes of brim. This is awesome. 6) Squish - make sure the bottom layer is squishing onto the glass with no gaps in the brim. The first trace going down should be flat like a pancake, not rounded like string. don't run the leveling procedure if it is off, just turn the 3 screws the same amount while it is printing the skirt or brim. Counter clockwise from below gets the bed closer to the nozzle. Don't panic, take a breath, think about which way to move the glass, think about how the screw works, then twist. This may take 30 seconds but it's worth it to not rush it. You can always restart the print. If you do all this you will then ask me "how the hell do I get my part off the glass?". Well first let it cool completely. Or even put it in the freezer. Then use a sharp putty knife under a corner and it should pop off.

You have to buy an entire hot end kit from fbrc8.com. I've never had this problem in years of printing. The filament goes mostly down - not up. For me. Not sure why yours curled up so hard. you could just use some kapton tape. aka polyiminide tape. And wrap it around the nozzle. That stuff can handle the hot end even at 300C. If you buy the white ring though it is incompatible with the Olsson block (google it if interested) and the Olsson block lets you change nozzles so you can print with larger or smaller diameters.

You shouldn't need to mess with the start code. I think you mean G28 Z0? So is it a disaster that it homes twice? As long as it prints just fine? Maybe you should post a 5 second video if there is still a problem. "ultigcode" works only on UM2 I believe.

I recommend you get a larger nozzle. It's easy to unscrew and screw in different nozzle sizes on the UMO. Make sure the nozzle takes 3mm filament and it should be the standard "reprap" thread. you can use the e3dv6 nozzles from either matterHackers.com or e3d-online but if you do you will need to remove or print out a lower profile fan shroud. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yafs-yet-another-fan-shroud-for-umo Anyway .6mm is a little more than twice the area of a .4mm nozzle and you should have much fewer clogs but quality will be similar. plus you can print much faster if you make the shell .6mm thick (one pass). Oh - I forgot, lol. you can get high quality e3dv6 nozzles for less money at my store in usa gr5.org/store/ or elsewhere start at 3dsolex.com. I can't believe I forgot to mention that!

What country are you ijn bgt? I've never had to do this but using a hot air gun is exactly what I would try first. some of the newer printers have a little tiny white ring that prevents this problem.

What happens if you do a G28 Z0? That should home the z axis only. If that works then try moving to 10mm: G1 Z10 If that works then you probably just need to add the g28 z0 to your gcode file. If you use cura use reprap mode and it should add this but if not you can add it to the "start gcode" section.

Please see this topic instead. I'm closing this topic: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/17410-imageprint-not-aligne

Print from jpeg? I dont' think that's the feature you want. If you want to print a cuboid (box) I recommend instead you download a cube from thingiverse and then set the x,y,z dimensions exactly as you want. Printing from jpeg is tricky. There are similar features in thingiverse - see "lithopane" if this is truly what you want.

Raft is an old technology. I never use it. Ever. It solves problems that we later solved with heat and blue tape and then even newer technology is glass with glue and heat. Only use raft in an emergency if you haven't figured out how to get parts to stick well. Also be aware that you can rotate parts using cura for the best possible orientation which is to have the large square on the glass. However this part will not look good in *any* orientation - it is difficult to print perfect. There isn't any way to get this part perfect. Most/many parts you *can* get perfect.

I like greet's theory. Sounds very likely. Alternatively sometimes chunks sit inside the nozzle. Regarding temp sensors. I sell them and I test every one I sell at 260C. About 1 in 10 are off by 8C or more. In both directions! Which I don't understand at all. To be off in the postivie direction (read higher temp) they have to be higher resistance which is very possible - you caqn have higher resistance where wire connects to pt100 for example inside the crimped cylinder. Or a bad wire that is only 1 strand. 10C error is (very roughly by memory) 1 ohm. But how the hell are they off in the other direction? Maybe there is a partial short between the 2 leads inside the cylinder? Seems unlikely. My impression was that the resistance was controlled by the amount of platinum and if it works at 20C it should work at 260C so either they are not tested at 20C (very unlikely) or something strange is going on. The temp sensors I use -- I'm not sure if they are the same ones Ultimaker uses but I've tested some of those and quality seems similar - about 1 in 10 off by more than 7C. Maybe my test rig isn't good enough. But the ones that are out by > 7C I usually let them cool and test them one more time and have always been consistent.

do a google of "reprap gcodes" and they are all explained in that web page.

255 is a little bit hot for ABS - that is hot enough to burn bits of it and also hot enough to cause a nasty clog if you print too slow. I suppose if you are at 3 cubic mm/sec it might be okay (to check printing volume speed hover mouse over the print speed - it's a combination of nozzle diameter, print speed, and layer height). Also the variation on temp sensors can be + or - 10C. So consider printing at 250C instead. Or even 245C. I can't go below 245C or I don't get good layer bonding. Also 70C bed temp is not hot enough to prevent warping corners off the bed for ABS. I recommend 100C bed temp and enclose the front of the machine if not also the top. Although if your part is sticking to the bed then I suppose you don't need to worry about the temperature thing.

More details here: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/15720-3dsolex-installation-support#reply-106396

"heating error"? I think there are 3 or 4 different errors and they mean different things. I don't remember which is which. There is a test in Marlin that if the heater PID is demanding 100% power for more than X seconds and the temp doesn't rise by at least Y degrees in that time then you get a failure and power is removed. Is that what you are talking about? There are about 4 different X and Y values depending on Marlin version. Typical is 30 seconds, 10 degrees. This is to detect if temp sensor or heater slipped out of the block and prevent a melt down. I may have skimmed your original posts too quickly the first time but I don't remember any mention of error messages so I may have led you down the wrong path on my earlier post.

The printer can lay on it's side or upside-down and printing quality doesn't change. Overhangs are still difficult and lose quality if more than 45 from vertical. Around 80 degrees from vertical they get very bad. Again - gravity doesn't have much to do with it. There is certainly the "lay flat" feature mentioned above that tries to rotate your part such that most of the surface is touching the build plate. I suspect this is what the other "gravity" feature did.

It's in both but I'd just fix it in Cura.

with no retractions i2k cools the bottom surface of the ptfe part to 100C versus 250C (assuming nozzle at 250C). This is huge. Remember that 4.5mm retraction at the feeder may translate to zero retraction at the head. Possibly. Most of that 4.5mm is coming from the bowden - if you have tons of retractions you can watch at the top of the arch of the bowden as the pla moves up to the top and down to the bottom of the tube. The actual retraction inside the head is... I don't know. Zero? Probably more than zero. So you are correct that heat gets transferred to the ptfe but how much? I really don't know.

What version of Cura? If this is in 15.6.* or newer then this is a total rewrite of Cura and the developers will want to know about this bug and please post it on the github cura issue tracker. (sorry I don't have the address - traveling today) But if this is 15.4.* or older that project is pretty much over. Also if this is 15.6 or newer I recommend you stick with 15.4 for now as they are still working out bugs with the "newer" cura.

Using both heater1 and heater2 on the ultiboard is a firmware nightmare - you would have to rewrite the PID code. I don't recommend that. Hopefully the single MOSFET can handle 7.7 ohm (50W) load. Your calculations were fine. Did you measure the resistance of the heaters? I would check them. They were supposed to be around 14.4 ohms but it sounds like they sent you the wrong heaters. How much heavier is your aluminum block than the default one? Even if twice as heavy it shouldn't be more than twice as hard to heat, right? Also what is the surface area of your block versus the original?

The "system that pulls the filament" is called the feeder. Inside that you can see the "knurled sleeve" which slips onto the feeder stepper motor. This knurled sleeve has a diamond pattern that creates the pattern you see in the filament inside the bowden tube. This is all very normal. Can you give more details on your extrusion problems? Is it extruding at all? Try heating the nozzle to 150C and then just pulling the filament out through the feeder - you might have to cut power if the feeder is powered but usually it is not powered. It should not take much force but the machine is tough and feel free to pull with 10 pounds force as nothing will get damaged. It could be something is jamming the filament in the bowden and you might have to remove the bowden at both ends by removing the horse shoe clip and then pushing down on the outer ring bowden holder while lifting the bowden firmly.

When the "new" cura is working better than the old Cura for 70% of models and has fewer bugs than the old Cura and has all of the features of the old Cura - well then there's no need to label it Beta anymore or distinguish it from the "old" Cura in the historical list of versions. Although I agree it would be nice if the "old" Cura had a code name similar to "pink unicorn" and those versions were all labeled as such.