gr5

Don't worry about the oil. For some reason it seems to have no affect on regular PLA either.

Stop using the leveling procedure. It has bugs. Or update to the latest firmware which fixes some of the leveling procedure bugs. Anyway my advice is to ignore leveling procedure and just turn those screws. One full turn is I believe .5mm. So try about a half turn on all 3 screws and then print the skirt and adjust live. Your initial description sounded like the nozzle was too far from the glass. And then your post #437 above sounds even *more* like the nozzle is too far from the glass. Don't trust the leveling procedure - just turn the screws instead.

Someone else complained of this recently. I've never seen the behavior. You can look through Marlin (the firmware) if you want - it's pretty easy to read and shouldn't be hard to find this code but if you make your own custom firmware and new features come out... or you can do a pull request. Let us know if you figure out if this is a Marlin thing and which version has the bug. If, in Cura, you choose "rep rap" flavor then it's controlled in Cura and in the gcode. You can customze the "start.gcode" setting in cura (only visible in "rep rap" mode - change this in machine settings) and set any damn start procedure you want. But I really prefer utligcode mode. Marlin source for ultimaker 2 is here on github: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

If you *do* have the ad595 solution, measure the output voltage of that board - it should be 0V for 0C and 5V for 500C and linear in between (200mv for 20C or room temp).

And please update your country in your "location" settings as advice often depends on country.

The UM has a AD595 tiny circuit board on the print head combined with a thermocouple. Is that what you have do you think? You should ask people in the makerbot forums (oh - right - they block this kind of post, :???: ). Well is there a circuit board to go with the thermocouple? Or is it maybe a thermistor instead? If it's a thermistor measure the resistance at room temperature and at say around boiling temperature and then find out which thermistor in the set of thermistor tables match the part you have.

By there way there are tons of parts for the Ultimaker's (either one) on thingiverse.com - such as custom heads, feeders, sliding blocks, etc.

The ultimaker 2 isn't necessarily any better than the UMO. The printing quality is the same as far as I can tell. Were you planning to buy the electronics for the "2"? I would concentrate on that detail first. There is another guy on the forums who built the frame of the 2 on a laser cutter. It looks really nice but now he has to figure out about the electronics. He decided to go with UMO electronics. He posted just a few weeks ago. You guys should talk. Here he is: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9729-um-pcb-v157-vs-v2x/ The UMO isn't called the "1" because it is constantly evolving and getting the best innovations incorporated back into it.

Other slicers have a feature better than Cura - they do a prime (just like um2) and *then* do a wipe along the edge of the surface of the print bed - far from the print (not sure what they do if the print reaches all the way to the edge). This works very well. Then they move the bed away from the nozzle a bit and zip over to the start of the skirt/brim.

Use your fingers you cowards! When I start a print I go into a zen trance (like in an elevator) until I hear the bed come up and I instantly come alert and get my hand close to the nozzle to grab the initial "priming" (like priming a pump). As the head moves towards the print I pull slowly sideways outward from the printer and I speed up faster and farther until the thread is so thin it's like a delicate hair than won't interfere with anything as it starts the skirt or brim.

If it stays cold but the temp is reading > 30C then it's the temp sensor you need to concentrate on. All of the possible error conditions are easy to diagnose and fix so we can walk you through it with more information. This is like batteries and bulbs. Not computer science.

More information please. Which error? Do you really expect us to read through 16 posts because you were too lazy to type the error? There are several errors: HEATER ERROR is one of the new ones. There is an error that mentions "BED" and another one that doesn't. There are at least 3 possible errors that I know of. There are 4 wires going to the bed. Two measure temperature. Two supply power to the heater. Either of these two systems can break but the symptoms are very different. If the temperature is working then you get the correct temperature even if it won't heat up (typically rooms are around 20C).

@Labern (and others) - Ultimaker will almost certainly give you a free teflon isolator if you convince them your's is defective. Even if your printer is out of warranty they are likely to give you one for free.

Could you post a picture of your e3d hot end setup please? Probably you should just go to firmware 14.11 or older (that's what I use) but I also had some unnecessary metal-to-metal contact that meant I was heating up more than I needed to.

No need to justify this! ABS is an excellent printing material.

I had some problems printing hotter than 210C with my heater block when fan was at 100% (fine at lower fan speeds) and it turned out my fan shroud was touching my heater block so I have changed this graphic to add the purple text!

http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ cura 13.04 was the final version with the older slicer. Fortunately you can have as many cura versions installed as you want as the installer tells windows that they are all completely different programs. I would be very surprised if skeinforge is any better. The problem is only for *vertical* nut traps and holes. It has to do with the material properties of liquid PLA. Does your friend print with ABS or some other material? Anyway there are 3 reasons holes are too small but the biggest reason is the nature of liquid PLA where it acts like snot or a liquid rubber band as it is being laid down and stretches towards the nozzle which is inward for holes. It wouldn't happen if the layer below supported it better but that layer also stretched inwards. There is no good fix for this and different types of material and color additives and other additives can change this property although ABS hardens much sooner so doesn't have as much distance to pull on as you "draw the circle" (lay out a round trace) so it isn't pulling inward quite as much. Now of course some slicer could compensate for all this. Outer corners also. I'm not sure if the error is consistent enough between printers, printing speeds, fan speeds and so on. Most people who use CAD will just design all their holes and such a bit bigger. I like to add .4mm to my vertical holes so 3.4mm holes for M3 screws. Smaller if you want M3 screws to "self tap". More information here and great ideas for designing parts: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

convex overhang surfaces are difficult to print. The plastic cools a bit in milliseconds and is already shrinking as it comes out of the nozzle and it acts more like snot than water. Kind of like a liquid elastic. The pulling forces towards the nozzle work in your favor under the lower overhang in the pyramid but under the 4 supports it works against you lifting those edges up which can get hit by the nozzle. The best fix is usually to increase fan but those are pretty good results - I don't think you can get much better than that on that kind of angle. More info here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4094-raised-edges/ Skip right to "page 2" and look at foehnstrum's video and read all the posts after that possibly. It's not until around post #39 and later that we really begin to understand what causes the issue.

I recommend you use 3dhubs.com and select any FDM printer to get an idea of what it will look like if you buy an FDM printer. This is very inexpensive and fast way to get a print made.

By the way - looking at your pictures, it looks like your model has many more triangles than needed. This means there are many more line segments than needed. You might want to "decimate" (remove some extra triangles) before slicing. Lots of software can do this. Here's an article about it: Meshlab: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/polygon_reduction_with_meshlab

I'm not sure what you mean. The pictures didn't help much. Maybe you could circle a problem spot? Do you mean "starts to go to the next area"? Or "layer"? Repetier host allows you to highlight just one line segment or a set of consecutive lines. Maybe using that feature would help point out the problem spot when you post the next picture.

You have to validate your email. Try validating again. Or check your spam folder for messages from ultimaker. Or if you really can't figure it out post here again and I'll send you an email manually and validate you the hard way but it may take a day or two if I don't check back here for a while.

You clearly sliced these 2 objects differently because I can see the diagonal infill is along a different angle. Do you still have the original gcode for the "good" one? Cura saves all settings in the gcode file on the last line of the file (encoded). You can reload an old slicing profile in cura by going to "file" "load profile from gcode". I would try that and reslice. I'm thinking maybe your infill is further apart or maybe because of the rotation of the part on the bed the infill lines aren't supporting the top layer as well. Or maybe you have thinner layers (say .05mm instead of .1mm) and the "threads" of filament are breaking.

Yes, I noticed that. Very strange. I'll get Daid to take a look at this thread. He knows Marlin much better than me.

Yes. Get the correct thickness. Ultimaker uses tempered glass but that's not necessary. Some people use more expensive pyrex glass. But Ultimaker doesn't. So just get the cheap glass. Have them grind the corners so it isn't sharp.