gr5

I like it. I'm not sure if it's any easier loose like that but I would expect... probably. Maybe. I mean it's not hard to work on when held in place either. You can push the head around and it stays there. But I'll try the blizz method next time.

RapidSeal?? I don't think we have that in USA. You mean this stuff? I don't think this is glue.

1) What value and part number thermistor do you have? 2) Did you plug in the 4.7k resistor - often you have to solder the 4.7K resistor in if you go the thermistor route. 3) Where did you get your Marlin? You might want to build a custom Marlin - for example here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ or https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ You have to select the EXACT correct thermistor. There are 100's of thermistor types but only 10 or 20 are in these versions of Marlin.

At some point you should download prontrface/printrun which can talk to your Marlin firmware and check out all the readings of temp sensors, end stops, and make the motors home and move: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/

In general most thermistors can't handle temps above around 240 or 250C (they get permanently damaged such that their accuracy changes by maybe 20% each time). So for that reason UM chose to use a thermocouple combined with the AD595 circuit board. If you truly have a thermistor - hopefully it is in the range of 100 ohms to 100k ohms in which case there's a temp1 or similar connection. When you build Marlin you have to select the correct temperature sensor for the nozzle (thermistor, thermocouple, etc). Note that there is typically only one type of thermocouple out there in printers but 100 completely different thermistors each with it's own 25C temperature (typically 100K) and it's own curve (alpha/beta values). If you have a heated bed - that's usually a thermistor.

You need to test them with a multimeter - test the wiring also. So disconnect them undereneath the UMO with power off and measure the resistance, then push the endstop. The resistance should toggle between open (infinite resistance or at least > 100K) and shorted (or at least <5 ohms).

If you are gluing large parts you can use heat or you can weld by putting some filament in a dremel and spin welding it into cracks. But this only works for welding large easy-to-get to corners. From reading above, it sounds like not all "super glue" brands are the same. Also of course it will work better if you rough up the surface first or if it is porous.

Make the post at least 10mm on a side. One post is usually enough. Place the post such that when printing it the fans are blowing on the part if possible to get extra cooling.

I found the schematic. I agree with anon. Just use signal (pin4 in schematic below) and either ground pin (2 or 3. they are the same):

Wow - fancy switch! It comes with a circuit board! Do you have the schematic? Can you post it? Well you can just remove that part from the board - that's probably what I would do. See those three labels: COM = common NC = normally connected NO = normally open Connect the COM and NO to the ultimaker but there looks to be an LED and maybe other parts that might get damaged from the voltages from the UM so I'd like to see the schematic first. Best to just remove the switch from the board.

This topic is moved here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/10282-where-do-the-endstop-wires-go/

What country are you in? Please update your location. You can get very different support depending on the country. Ultimaker will usually (not always) honor warranty even when you are past the end date. The board is around $250 I believe from my poor memory. Don't call imakr - contact UM support directly. I'm pretty sure they help you no matter where you bought it. Also if you want very fast support and you speak english, call their number during their daytime hours and you often get a human right away. But only call if you speak english (or dutch) - they all speak english fantastically well. I have 3 UM2 power supplies and they are very strange beasts. They must have computers in them or something. I would assume that's the problem as mine do weird things. I found that I had to power one down for several *hours* before it would work again. Try unplugging it from the wall, then turn on the UM2 to drain most of the charge - there should be a blue led that gets dim. Then maybe wait a few hours like that as it really takes an incredibly long time- maybe even a few days. Then hook it all back up normal (any order is fine plug in while machine is on is fine, while machine is off - seems to make no difference for me). I know you said the green light is on the board but I still recommend you do this test. Also if you have a multimeter you could test that it's 24V on the white board coming in and not, say 5V or 2V that I expect you are getting which is enough for that green led but not enough for much else.

So the switch itself has 4 wires? I think you have the wrong kind - those are probably optical end stops. You need simpler mechanical ones that are normally open. When you push on the tiny metal bar it should short out like a light switch turning on. The one in this picture has 3 connections - usually the middle one is common (connects to the outer 2) and one of the outer connections is "normally open" meaning it is open when switch isn't engaged. The other one is "normally closed" meaning it is closed, or shorted, or connected when switch isn't touched/engaged. You want "normally open" one. Check with ohmmeter.

Please post a picture next time. We would have noticed it was a vase which "changes everything". And who knows what other critical piece of info would be learned with a picture.

I don't think you mentioned it was a vase. This is very complicated and there's 3 major concepts/issues to overcome: 1) sticking/warping 2) proper shell width 3) Vases - special case sticking... How big are we talking about? The base of the vase? It helps to have rounded corners as sharp corners apply all the lifting forces to one point, then that lifts, and now there is lifting force on a new larger spot and then that lifts, and eventually you get a large enough corner that it stops lifting. Brim helps a TON. Brim feature will help hold that part down nicely. If you have heated bed, set it to 50C and if you have glass bed use some kind of PVA glue - a coating so thin it is invisible (mix with water and spread thin). If you don't have heat use blue tape. Clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol - super critical step to remove the wax. If tape lifts instead of part then use wider tape (50mm minimum - 200mm better). 2) shell width - for a non vase make damn sure you shell width is a multiple of .9 and make sure your nozzle setting in cura is .9. Did you do that? I asked you this question above but you didn't answer. 3) Vases - okay - for best vase results people usually do single-pass-walls. This is a very special way of printing and a special way of doing the model and using cura. You first need a CAD model that is solid. Sometimes you can simulate this by checking most of the boxes in "fix horrible". You want to first convince Cura that your part is a solid cylinder-like thing and it should show lots of diagonal infill where the water would normally go. Then you uncheck infill and uncheck "top" so that it has no top. Then you can also do "spiralize" if you want. If you don't do spiralize you can choose 1 or 2 shells on your own by setting to .9 or 1.8mm. If you check spiralize it will do single pass wall (and will also beef up the the joint between the bottom and the wall to prevent water leaks if you put water in it). If you do single pass wall and tell it the wall is 1.8mm now it is doing 200% flow to get a single pass 1.8mm wall out of a .9mm nozzle which may be a problem. Instead I would go no thicker than 1.0mm if you go the spiralize route.

The XY switch stuck/broken message and test has been removed from firmware 15.02.1 so you might want to install that. These messages seem to have caused more problems than they fixed.

I just learned that version 14.09 doesn't check the X,Y endstop switches. lol. So certainly you won't get the error there. I also learned the XY error message has been removed from version 15.02 (and 15.02RC2 and 15.02.1 but message is in 15.02RC1). So you might want to upgrade your firmware to 15.02. The Z message is still there. I learned just now from tech support that usually this error means you have a loose pulley and the X,Y or Z axis is drifting towards the 0 position (left or front depending on axis) and eventually the endstop switch gets hit. So the error usually means "loose pulley". If you have a loose pulley it's more obvious by looking at the part because each layer is moved over a bit (or a lot). If you are printing a part that is the full 230mm wide for example you also could get this error sporadically as the head comes within .2mm of hitting the switch while printing. So removing this test might be best.

@reibuehl - Would you consider downgrading your firmware to 14.12? You can get it by loading Cura from here: http://software.ultimaker.com/old/ Install Cura 14.12 (it will not affect your other copies of Cura - Cura is strange in that you can have many versions installed at the same time) then connect computer to printer through USB cable and the Cura wizard should hopefully prompt you to load the correct firmware (UM2 firmware). I have this theory (that may be wrong) and if I'm right, your limit switch problems (all of you possibly) may go away in version 14.12 or older.

rob - I recommend you take the bottom cover off - you have to raise the bed with power off by lifting firmly to access the 2 screws under the bed that let you take the bottom cover off. It's all quite easy to do. Then hook up a multimeter to the z switch under your printer and measure that it is open and then push the lever and make sure it is shorted (switch is "on").

You can do "load profile from gcode..." and see exactly what settings you used for things like speed and temperature and fan for an old gcode file.

#1 works MUCH better but both are better than doing nothing. In fact print 3 at a time. The one in the middle will be the best.

These gap layers are often caused by a tangled filament that repairs itself. But you are likely correct that it is mechanical. There is almost zero chance the problem is electronic. Sometimes a z screw looks and seems perfect but has a fault. Same with the 2 rods and bearings and the Z nut. I would run the platform up and down with the power off (UMO you have to spin z screw by hand but UMO+, UMO HBK, and UM2 you can just push up and down on the bed. See if you can get replacement set from UM (all the parts - rods, z screw, z nut, motor).

You probably don't need to do this "reverse cut text". Just print on top. That's what I did but the key was that the text was .1mm thick and the part printed on top was bottom layer .3mm thick (with no cut outs).

Please post a link to the files so other people can print these.

They are quite expensive. Just google the part number written on the supply. I bought an extra power supply myself.