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The isolator is the white part - it's teflon. Don't heat it above 250C (don't use a torch on it). Maybe you mean the "isolator nut"? You can burn out any remaining PLA or you can just turn on the nozzle heater to 150C and when temp is stable screw the nut on. Try not to burn yourself (use gloves and/or tools).

This issue on the top surface of the van is called "pillowing" and there is more detail here (search for 'pillowing') http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide The upper layers of your van have some underextrusion. The first thing to check is your layer height/print speed/temperature combination. For your reported layer height of .1 and speed of 50mm/sec according to this graph: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/ Your temperature needs to be at least 205C. If that's already true then something else is causing underextrusion. There are *so* many possibilities it's depressing. Google underextrusion for this forum and read about some of the causes.

Peter please do a few things for us: Please post a picture of your issue - all underextrusion issues are not the same. So please post a picture of the part that you are having trouble with - or at least the first layer which has special case issues (if there is a problem there). Also please report to us: 1) Type of printer you are using 2) Slicer (cura?) 3) temperature, layer height, print speed. These 3 parameters work together to give you either underextrusion or not: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/

Can you increase top/bottom thickness? Eventually it recovers and fills the hols in if you have enough layers. Usually .8mm is plenty but maybe you need more? Also using a layer thickness of about .2mm will probably fill in much better than .1mm. .1mm strands are more likely to tear. Also printing slower can help - say 25mm. So there's 3 things to try. Slow helps because there is an acceleration and deceleration at the end of every line and there is a delay in building the pressure back up when starting the next line. This means the filament is slightly undrextruded as it starts out and can snap. Same issue is why .2mm is less likely to snap than .1mm or thinner.

This is probably the longest part I printed with Taulman Bridge. It's the one labelled TB - third from the top. no lifting - the brim and glue held it down nicely.

So I've only printed about 10 parts in Taulman Bridge - it's just too flexible for most of my needs. Maybe 20 parts. Anyway - my notes say on Ultimkaer 2, clean the glass, then apply some elmers wood glue mixed with about 10 parts water to 1 part wood glue (it's not exact). Shake in a jar and apply to the bed with paint brush. Print nozzle temp 240C, bed temp 70C. Use lots of brim. It should stay down. Also fan at 30% max and 30% min. You will definitely get better results if you cover the top with a box and the front with plastic but I didn't bother. I printed quite a few things with this method - nothing longer than 120mm but this method kept the parts from lifting off the bed. In fact I have a note that said I needed 12 pounds of force to get a small 10mm by 10mm cube off the bed (used a screwdriver against a scale to see how much pressure was needed).

Whenever this happens I usually recommend wider tape. Illuminarti uses 6 inch wide tape (150mm).

going to bed but quick answer is in this guide - search for "pillowing": http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

Yikes so many questions. The UMO is designed to work with 19V, the UMO+ is designed to work with 24V. The UMO+ comes with a heated bed and the UM2 PCB which has extra connectors for a second extruder. The problem with the extra nozzle/extruder kit is that it will have the wrong temp sensor - you need a PT100. You can buy PT100 parts in many places but UM has a nice one that fits in the print nozzle nicely. The UMO+ *can* in theory run off 24V or 19V but it's best to use 24V. Yes you need a bigger power supply (more watts, more amps) and also the connector on the back of the UMO might not be specified to work with any more amps than it already does although it's probably fine. Alternatively you can keep the existing power supply and just not do heated bed at the same time as dual extrusion. So the tricky parts: 1) temp sensor 2) power supply (nozzle is about 30-50W so 50W more than existing (2 amps more) should be fine) 3) firmware That brings us to the firmware. You can download it and build it yourself. Changing it to do 2 extruders should be trivial - you just comment or uncomment the appropriate lines in Configuration.h. The file is 90% comments and very easy to understand (I think). The firmware source code is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin There's various places that describe how to build the firmware. There's basically the GUI way and the command line way. I prefer the GUI way. Here's my old notes on building Marlin: Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/ Actually I don't think it's the "mega2560" on the ultimaker 2 board. You'll have to google around or ask Daid.

This subject: emssivity, transitivity, reflectivity - how these 3 values always add up to 1 (or 100%), how emissivity ALWAYS exactly represents both absorbed and emitted light of a given material, how this affects dew, how this affects how things look in infrared cameras, how these properties can confuse infrared cameras, why there is dew on the windshield and why it is on the grass, but not the grass right next to the house - all of these issues are very interesting to me and I have spent 100s of hours contemplating them. If you want a little more detail... ask away for clarification - please try to figure out what part is confusing first.

Trnsmission does matter. But not for glass at these temperatures I believe because I think glass isn't transparent at these infrared frequencies. Glass is transparent in the near infrared but hopefully by the time you cool to 100C (from 6000C) it's opaque. I know for sure glass is opaque at the infrared frequencies when things are at room temperature. I know this because at night I get dew on the glass winshield of my car. If the glass was transparent down to these frequencies the dashboard would be the item getting "radiatively cooled" and the dew would be on the dashboard. Some materials like quartz are transparent down to these frequencies. The camera used in the above photos obviously doesn't use regular glass! But, yes, reflectivity of glass *does* matter. But if you look straight on (not at a steep angle) very little light is reflected and mostly you are seeing the "color" of the glass (the temperature).

The problem started in marlin 14.04. I have refused to update my Marlin because of this issue quite a few people had. It looks like the same issue as yours pm_dude (post #37): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6613-firmware-surface-kwality-bug-1407-vs-1403/?p=75597

pm_dude - that is definitely underextrusion and happening in a pattern of good/bad with a cycletime of maybe 30 to 90 seconds. Try going back to firmware from before 14.06. Somewhere around 14.06, 14.07 Daid has been making changes in both nozzle and bed temperature controls. These changes in the firmware I believe are causing these problems. In particular the bed is now in "bang bang" mode and it makes total sense that the bed is now turned on and off about once every 30 to 90 seconds (in older firmware it's about 20 times per second). This changes the power draw drastically when the bed is on versus off and somehow seems to affect nozzle temp. There are other changes to nozzle PID software - in a recent firmware change Daid increased the PID loop frequency by quite a bit so it adjusts power level to nozzle much more often. Not sure if this is better or worse than before. The fan may be part of the problem but I never used to have these kinds of problems until I updated the firmware.

If you report it on github include the stl model, and the following key settings to reproduce: 1) initial layer height 2) layer height 3) nozzle width 4) shell width 5) infill % And indicate a layer number in slice view that *does* include the inner infill and a layer that *doesn't* but has "plenty" (well... enough room) for more infill.

Did you use your fingers? Or pliers? You definitely want 2 pairs of pliers to install those springs - probably "needle nose" pliers. Right tool for the right job.

By the way, it's not just 3d printing that requires you to make the CAD model different from desired end result. This is true of injection molding where you even have to change angles, and cnc milling and so on. Other recommended alterations are in this amazing guide by IRobertI: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing

What you describe "should be done" is "what is done". The thickness of the red stripe is typically your "nozzle width" but only if "shell width" is an integral multiple of "nozzle width". By the way please update what kind of printer you have in your profile - it's perfectly okay for you to not have any ultimakers as long as we are discussing Cura. For example if you set nozzle width to ".4" and shell width to ".8" then the red line shown above will be .2mm in from the inner and outer edges just as one would want. You can verify this easily by looking at the gcode for a simple 10mm cube. This .4mm value would also be used for the spacing between inner shells, the spacing between diagonal infill and it would be used for the calculation of the amount of filament to extrude. HOWERVER, I'm sure you *are* still seeing vertical holes smaller than desired. Especially small holes for screws and if you have a square hold the edges are fine but the corners get cut off quite a bit. This is in the nature of PLA. When PLA is extruded at over 200C it very quickly cools - in milliseconds. When printing say a 3mm vertical screw hole it places it over the layer below but it's stretchy as it cools (it shrinks as it cools) and becomes like a liquid rubber band pulling inward. As the nozzle traces the inside circle the rubber band property pulls the filament inward a bit - especially since the layer below has already been pulled inward a bit. This is the major factor for why small holes are much smaller than desired. For a 3mm vertical hole I typically print it at 3.4mm. There are 2 other factors - overall shrinkage of the part from glass temp (about 60C) to room temp(about 20C). This is only 0.3% and almost too small to mention here. Also your cad software converts circles into polygons. If that polygon has say 10 sides those sides cut *inside* the circle such that the decagon is smaller than desired. If you have only 8 sides it's even worse. I recommend 10 sides as a good amount - or at least the minimum. So what is the solution? If you have the original cad files then increase all those holes by about .5mm. If not consider printing with maybe ABS which has a much higher glass temp and has different properties.

I assume you have problems only on larger prints. There are many solutions to warping PLA prints. They all work. The older methods have more drawbacks. Oldest method: use a raft. This isolates the part from the bed in a flexible bed that can take up some of the bending forces. Leaves ugly scar on the bottom. No one seems to do this anymore except maybe makerbots? Newer: heated aluminum bed with kapton tape. Works okay - not great. Unless you go the 75C route. At 75C (which you can do on UM2) for PLA the bottom 5mm or so stay *above* the glass temp. This allows the bottom layers to warp every so slightly such that nowhere is the force strong enough to even remotely pull off the bed. The downside is that if you so much as touch it at this level it will leave a fingerprint and the bottom few layers are as soft as clay for a while. Also you get a warping like curved inward corners because the PLA is so soft it acts like a rubber band as it is laid down and pulls inward. Also vertical holes are MUCH smaller than expected in this bottom 5mm or so. Newer: blue tape - clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol. That is critical step. It removes the wax surface that keeps the tape from sticking to itself. The drawback is the bottom isn't as smooth as if you use glass and it's more work as you are always tearing the tape and you have to soak the bottom of parts in a pan of alcohol sometimes for 5 minutes to get the tape off. Larger parts may need thicker tape (150-200mm wide) if the tape is peeling off the bed. Newest and best: glass with PVA glue. This method is so damn good the glass occasionally breaks off pieces and embeds glass into the bottom of your print. If this method isn't working for you then you are doing something wrong. glue stick, elmers wood glue (my favorite) and hair spray all have some PVA in them. I have tried all 3. All 3 work well for both ABS and PLA. My favorite is Elmers Wood glue mixed with about 10 parts water, 1 part glue in a glass jar, shake well, apply with paint brush, let dry. Actually 50 parts water might be better as I often later squirt with water for the next print and respread with paint brush and the more dilute it gets the stronger it seems to be. It's invisible when dry. Glass needs to be at 40C for parts to stick. 50C is safest temp as it is well above the (suddenly it sticks) temperature and well below the 70C warp-foot temperature. Other key points: 1) Squish the glue into the tape/glass - your bottom layer should be squished. If not, turn the 3 set screws 1/4 turn until it is flatter than tall. Warm bed (above 40C) helps the plastic flow and make good adhesion. Even for blue tape. 2) Brim! Lots of brim! 10 passes is usually enough. Sometimes not enough. This helps for SEVERAL reasons. One of which is that square corners have all the forces right at the tip of the corner. Rounded corners spread the forces over more area. Also the brim keeps air from getting in and keeps the lifting from getting started.

That above video has you take off the 3rd fan. This is completely unnecessary - just skip that step.

MAINTENANCE ADVANCED BED-TEMP I'm sorry you haven't found this yet. This is how I always turn on my machine - I hit power, heat bed to 50C, nozzle to 150C, then pull out the SD card and go off to my computer to copy the gcode file to the SD card. Come back later and it's warmed up.

That looks reasonable. I've seen much worse when the screw heads stick up and create an air gap between plate and glass. You will of course get better printing results for ABS if you enclose your chamber. But this is probably good enough for most prints. Why do you suppose the left side is worse? Maybe inspect the distance between glass and aluminum there with something thin like paper. Were the fans on? I try to print ABS with the fans off or at least on a very low setting.

As a general rule (there are lots of exceptions) hollow structures are just as strong. Think bones.

Perhaps you just have it in a colder room? Mine just barely gets up to 110C. I think it would help a lot to cover the front (and the top with a box). If you can raise the air temp by 20C you should be able to raise the reported temp by 20C. Plus you will get better results with the warmer air when printing ABS.

I still have 3 extra heater blocks and nozzle kits - anyone interested? I guess I'm not going to try to advertise too heavily until the next batch is ready. Or I'll just let swordriff do the advertising.

I don't have the UMO+ but I have UMO and UM2. I believe you have this white circuit board. All the connections are labelled pretty well. BOTH sides. Heated bed goes to the green connector as shown. "heater2" is for a second nozzle (dual print heads) so you can ignore that. These are UM2 photos but it's the same board: Similarly E2 (extruder 2 - goes to second feeder stepper) and temp2 (second nozzle temp sensor) can be ignored and should be empty. Heater wiring, stepper wiring, and temp sensor wiring can go either way. Fan's however matter (red wire goes to power or "+", black wire goes to ground or "-"). Click on images for larger image.