gr5

You can check the gcode more exactly with this simple web application - just drag and drop your gcode file onto it: http://gcode.ws/ Backlash can be caused by either too loose or too tight belts. What you say? If belts are too tight then friction is too high and when an axis comes to a stop the head hasn't moved all the way and the belt is tighter at that moment in one direction than the other. If belts are too loose obviously also it might not drag the head all the way. Often the end caps over the rods cause too much friction. You should be able to push the head easily with your smallest finger of each hand touching the blocks on either side and pushing (with steppers powered off). But still - I'm guessing you could tighten your long belts a tiny bit more. I recommend clothes pin springs placed on the opposite position of the belt from the blocks. Or it might not be backlash at all - it might be underextrusion. Test by printing at half the speed - if that fixes the gap then it was underextrusion. Or it could be a slicing error.

Fixed title. It also helps to use a screwdriver like hex wrench instead of one that is bent at 90 degree angle.

I'm not sure if anyone has dual printing working well. I've seen 5 color printing with 5 nozzles. It's not too bad I guess. Anyway if you are in the market for a printer I suggest this impressive printer comparison: http://www.3dhubs.com/best-3d-printer-guide

Yes, and click "raw" to get the pdf. Go to page 55 of 69 and in top right, step 16, examine the colors of the 3 wires related - one wire (green in photo) should connect the two fans together to make them "in series". Smell of smoke is a very bad sign. Check the voltage at the fan connectors - each fan should be 12V (24V across both fans). If one fan is shorted or open you will see 0V across one fan and 24V across the other.

Interesting. Maybe. I don't think so - you need some kind of conductor to jump the spark to the plate suddenly. You can build up a huge charge on the glass but unless the top surface is conductive - like metal conductive - or salt water then I think not. Because the top surface of the glass isn't conductive a spark at the edge would only transfer the charge at the local area and not relieve the charge on the rest of the surface. So it would be very little power.

Does someone out there know the wattage of the UM Original nozzle heater?

arjan consider adding a drop of oil to the filament before it goes through the feeder. One drop every meter or two. It works incredibly well and doesn't affect the print. It lets the filament slide through the bowden with much less friction.

lol. Yeah that was also mentioned above by peggy I think. "cool head lift". But like she said - you end up with lots of strings. Putting a tower slightly taller than your print, next to your print is a much better option. Or just print 2. Or 3 like you did.

This part of Cura has been redesigned in the next major release of Cura. It's *completely* different. You won't recognize it. Also you can set temperature and speed by layer and change infill by layer or part if printing multiple parts and all kinds of good stuff. That version of Cura is code named "pink unicorn" and there's lots of discussion but Daid seems to be working on non-software issues lately.

I can modify the title. What do you think it should say?

Portal is, I think, my favorite game. Up there with Myst.

Also I would put the 3 parts much closer together to minimize stringing. You probably wanted to increase the layer time by making the head move farther but that's not necessary as you really only need about 2-3 seconds cooling time per layer. Also if you are really clever you can have the fans on the side cooling one part while printing the next.

For something this small, printing slower won't help because the head will be touching the part and transferring all the heat into keeping the PLA melted kind of like a soldering iron. Anyway I think someone answered your question and you missed it. Under "expert config" in the "cool" section there is a setting called "minimum speed (mm/s)". You need to set this to zero or it overrides "minimum layer time".

I can imagine it is easy to destroy the FET inside the HBK with static electricity simply by touching the heated bed after walking across a rug in a very dry house. But I can't imagine how the FET could break (or the arduino controlling signal) just because you cut power. I'd have to see the schematic.

Not a complete disaster. Normally (if you don't insulate or cover the sides) the bed only gets to about 110C to 120C maximum I'm told.

Also did you try this marlin builder? Look at the Configuration.h file it creates and compare it to your file: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Teocreo - your english is very confusing and hard to understand. Plese write the post in Italian and check carefully for spelling and then use translate.google.com to convert to english. As long as your grammar and spelling is perfect, google does okay. I don't understand the firmware questions but I think I understand that your temperature is very unstable. How many watts is your nozzle heater? Where did you get the heater? If you don't know how many watts, then how many ohms? And you are using 19V supply?

As peggy is hinting - anything in red in xray view has extra inner walls that you need to remove. Sketchup is horrible with this problem. Sometimes playing with the 4 "fix horrible" checkboxes will let you fix the letters without having to fix the model in cad. Also if letters are too thin (<.8mm) you may have to cheat and tell Cura that your nozzle is actually .35 (and shell width a multiple of nozzle e.g. .7mm). Or smaller than .35mm.

When you weren't looking maybe your cat put the printer in the dishwasher. Cat's do all kinds of things while we sleep.

On the page describing the UM2 On the page with the "buy" button:

The pattern you are seeing is usually either Z screw or nozzle temp. I don't think it's possible to be anything else. I guess maybe on a delta.... but you said you had a Prusa. So you say you watched the temperature carefully during one of those cycles (looks like maybe 10 layers)? If it didn't change by more than 2C then it must be the Z screw. I don't remember how the prusa works - does the base move up and down? Or the nozzle? How many lead screws? Maybe the nut is loose? Try moving the bed up and down by 30mm repeatedly (maybe using pronterface) and feel the bed - see if the movement is smooth or wobbly. Look for horizontal movement *and* vertical speed up/slow down changes. What is the vertical spacing on your bands? What is the vertical spacing on the threads on your Z screw(s)?

I doubt it's steps per mm. You can calibrate it by marking the filament with a permanent marker, then moving the filament slowly forward (though a hot nozzle I guess) for 100mm. Then measuring how far the filament moved exactly. Adjust steps/mm to be = current value * ( 100mm / actual-distance-moved) Then power cycle your machine to make sure the value was saved and repeat the test.

For PLA usually 3 seconds is enough. 10 seconds should be enough even on a very hot day. Anyway please post a picture. What you call "looking kind of melted" we probably call something totally different. Like "pillowing" or overextruded or underextruded or "too much overhang" or who knows what. All I know is every time I guess what people mean, once they post a picture everyone is like "oh - wow - that's not what I thought you meant".

I recommend, in Cura, trying .31, .31, .32, .33 etc until it stops working and then go back. In other words try to get a little bit wider trace if possible. Also consider setting flow to 170% to compensate (.4/.3)^2=1.7. Or at least to 140%. Of course if it will slice fine with nozzle at .35 then you can set to flow (.4/.35)^2=131%

lol! When I print ABS I usually print at 110C bed temp. With some kind of PVA glue on the glass.