gr5

You might possibly want to tilt your UM2 on it's side and see if that square nut comes out and save it until you need it. I don't know much about this part of the UM2 so I don't even know if it *can* fall out.

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The Z screw grease is in a very small, clear plastic tube. The grease is green so the tube is green. It should be in the same bag as a screwdriver, a roll of blue tape, and I forget what else. You probably won't need it for a year or so. The grease is *only* for the Z screw. Don't use it anywhere else.

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Are you positive? In this case you want to UNCHECK all 4 of those. Please post the STL somewhere on the internet and supply a link to it.

google "pololu current". These parts are pin compatible with pololu drivers. One of the 2 pins on the adjustable pot is at the voltage you need to measure. There is a formula that converts voltage to current. I think you simply multiply by some constant but forget what the constant is. If you break one of these they are very inexpensive and you can replace with several choices of replacement. The key information is to know that they are called "pololu" and google will take care of you.

PLA white from printbl??? I have some of that also - not spooled. It works great. I used some yesterday and my white filament is over a year old. Is yours spooled or loose?

All of that is good. I like the "cut a few millimeters" solution but don't cut much more than that. Also make sure you loosen the 4 screws, shove it in there good, then after the clip is on and the bowden is tight, you tighten the 4 head screws a bit to make that bowden in there nice and tight. If this solution doesn't work the first time, don't try it again - it probably means some of the metal knives in the bowden-holder are broken. So try one of the other solutions.

Details here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

I agree. The tip is clogged. The simplest method to clean it is the "atomic" method (named after atomic bob who first explained it): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691 Steps 4,5 are optional. Step 2 is the step where you can injure your UM2 a bit so read all of step 2 before doing it.

Where are you? Canada? Well it takes about 3 days to ship a UM2 from Netherlands to USA so I don't think the distance is relevant considering the long lead time before they ship it. I've had UM ship small parts to me and those also only take 3 days. So I'm not sure the distance is a consideration.

I didn't notice you were gone for the first week but after, what has it been? 3 weeks? 4 weeks? I don't know but I've been wondering for a while now. I'm glad you came back for a visit!

I guess I can't help you then. Well - you could try another slicer. Kisslicer is pretty good - it has a nice gui similar to Cura. I'd love to see what your model looks like (in zbrush or actual printed even if you did already smooth it). I'm trying to understand the complexity.

It could have been a collision or an earlier failed print or maybe the nozzle leaks a little around the threads. Anyway, simply remove the fan shroud (2 screws each side) and let that hang by the wires and then heat up the nozzle to around 100C for at least 30 seconds and then remove excess with pliers or something. If it continues to leak you should figure out where exactly it leaks and then consider fixing it. As long as it doesn't drip on your part that you are printing it won't harm anything.

I think your first solution to your first problem will work fine. As for the second issue - If you put the bowden in boiling hot water (95C is plenty hot - it doesn't actually have to be boiling) then it will be easier to get the extra filament out. Actually 70C might be better so that you can use other PLA to push it out without having that melt also. Maybe cut off a 4 foot piece of pla, put in freezer, then heat up bowden by dipping the bad spot in hot water, then wait 30 seconds, then remove bowden from water, remove 4 foot cold PLA and slide through quickly while the PLA in the tube is still soft? I've never actually done this but other people have managed to get their PLA out of the bowden somehow.

Try slicing it anyway. Carefully check those layers in slice view to see if it has a problem. Consider checking "fix horrible A" or "fix horrible B" but only if there is a problem. Usually the red areas are extra parts that can be deleted, but I'm not sure.

His feeder is probably on a custom spool holder behind the machine. He posted that somewhere else I think.

The filament probably had a thick spot and it took that long for it to get through the bowden. While it was stuck in the bowden, the feeder slipped many times.

Those are so similar that I would say there is no difference. In general, oscillations are made worse if you increase P or I or decrease D. But your changes are so small - I would have expected P or I to be cut in half or D to be doubled in order to dampen those oscillations. Anyway, I'm glad you got it working.

??? Where does all the extra material go? Does it turn into a gas? Is the diameter 2.85mm? Maybe it is slipping? It must be slipping. Try printing slower? Some people say you have to print as slow as 10mm/sec with flex materials. Some people recommend a drop of oil inside the bowden but I don't know how to get it in there!

This post shows my print settings for the above - and I printed 2 robots so it took a long time: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality/?p=28588

The robot is not the easiest thing to get to look perfect because it has quite a few overhangs. I spent some time trying to get the perfect robot once. This was the best I could do after about 10 attempts (on a UM Original which prints as good as a UM2 I think as long as nothing is wrong with it):

Cool head lift will *only* improve the 2 antennas. You can get even better antenna improvement by printing 2 robots side by side. The problem is they are so small they don't have time to cool as the nozzle is making physical constant contact and keeps them above melting temp. With "cool head lift" or by printing 2 robots the nozzle moves away long enough for it to cool. These are tiny improvements as they only affect the antenna. You didn't answer the question about travel speed. What was your print speed and what was your travel speed?

Those curves didn't look too bad but it is definitely PID issue. My UM2 overshoots once - then slowly recovers. Can you publish the "old" and "new" PID settings? Someone else might want to try your values.

Cura manual is first big blue button here: http://software.ultimaker.com/