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Or go with a 1 megohm if you are worried. Or even 10 megohm should be enough to notice this problem. johnny - for my UM Original, if that wire is loose, I get a max temp error instantly.

You can change the speed *while* you print. There is a percentage that starts out at 100%. The feedrate. If you sliced in cura at say 50mm/sec and then set the percentage to 50% it will print 25mm/sec. 200% 100mm/sec. And so on.

Robert made a video of how to post images: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/&do=findComment&comment=38618

Robert made a video of how to post images: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4525-how-to-upload-an-image-to-the-forum/&do=findComment&comment=38618

Did you check this yet? This would explain why the pla softened enough to create that disk in the first place. Although more likely your bowden just wasn't seated properly.

Yes of course, but if no plastic is flowing this will have the opposite effect - create more blockage. Don't go over 240C for more than a minute if no plastic is flowing.

The trick is explained here. This is the third reference to the below link in this topic: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?hl=%2Bremove+%2Bbowden&do=findComment&comment=33691 Quick answer: loosen the 4 long screws first, get the bowden as tight as possible, then tightening the 4 screws will get it nice and tight. It's very easy to damage your bowden when removing. I hope you read the above link before you removed it. Too late now of course.

Something is wrong with your printer Schafe. I suggest to start with a thorough nozzle cleaning. Also I strongly recommend you never go above 240C. You can cause the PLA to gunk up your nozzle at that kind of temp. You might want to take the nozzle completely off and "burn it clean" in gas flame of some sort. Try not to get it *too* hot - just hot enough to burn everything to ash but not hot enough to melt the metal.

You are going to have to be more specific and include drawings, photos, or diagrams, or screenshots of Cura. Are you talking about the thin wall issue? Walls thinner than 2mm are complicated to slice but cura can usually handle down to .81mm thick walls. Your words in your post make me think of 8 different issues and I'm not going to guess which one you are asking about.

FYI - leaving pla at 250C or hotter is a bad idea unless things are flowing nicely. 250C is enough to turn it into a hard sticky gunk that you will have to burn out with a gas flame later. 260C of course is even worse. Leaving PLA at 260C for 10 minutes is a very very bad idea. Please don't ever do this again You are going to have to take the whole head apart. It's not so hard - just get started. Read the link carefully about removing the bowden tube as that is the only tricky part where you can damage it if you just pull up on it without retracting the 4 metal blades first. You will probably need to heat all the parts up to around 100C -180C to get everything apart. It sounds like there is melted PLA all over the upper parts of the head. Possibly stick parts in boiling water before pulling apart if they are stuck. When you get a chance check to see if your 3rd head fan is working. If it isn't it would explain all your original symptoms that lead up to this problem. The rear head fan should come on as soon as you power up the UM - even before the lights come on.

Joergen speaks truth. Although I think I already mentioned this. On this very thread. So simmonstrummer. Read all the posts in this thread please! You certainly didn't read all of my very first post.

This isn't stringing - the pattern is regular. This is a purposeful support layer. *and* it's visible in Cura. In cura you can slide the layer slider on the right side down until you can find the problem layer. DO NOT print anything until inspecting the layers first. Robert's suggestion, although it may sound bizarre, is very very likely the fix for your problem.

Until then, try printing at 1/4 the normal speeds you are used to.

Don't know what you mean by blocky. The only thing I can think of is that if these are 3d scans. 3d scans look real good because there is an image wrapped onto the model making it look much higher resolution than it actually is. When you remove the "skin" or image" you realize how crappy the scan actually is. Is that what you are talking about? If so then it's the scanner - they aren't as good as people make you think. If not then you need to show us a picture.

The community (and also I'm sure Ultimaker) welcomes your modification. I think you might be required to post using the same license as UM posted with but I wouldn't worry about it too much. I recommend choosing the CC attribution with or without the non commercial addition. I'd probably skip that as then Ultimaker can't use it themselves. Please eventually post your design on youmagine.com also. Thingiverse has a click license when you signed up that gives them all rights to do whatever they want with anything you post there. Youmagine does not. Do you have a heated bed or are you going to use another heater (100 watt lightbulb?), or what? I found a heated bed to be sufficient for PLA. Are you going to print ABS? Most of the shrinkage/cooling issues happen from the glass temp to air temp if the model isn't done printing. So for PLA the glass temp is around 60C. For ABS the glass temp is around 100C. For PLA, heating the air from a typical room temp of 20C to 40C will cut the shrinkage and lifting forces by 2X. 50C even more. Any hotter than 50C is too close to the glass temp and you might have trouble printing. For ABS, raising the air temp from 20C to 40C will only reduce shrinkage/lifting by about 25%. So for ABS you might need to mount your steppers *outside* the frame. Although they get in the way, this is very easy to do and requires no drilling and no additional parts. The motor can be mounted outside the frame and the pulley sticks through the hole to the inside of the machine. The direction needs to be reversed which can be done by rebuilding the Marlin firmware. If you use robot fuzz it is trivial.

Put a 100 or so ohm resistor in there to fool the printer. Then, yes, you can print on cold glass or on blue tape. If cold glass you will need to add some gluestick: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ If you print on the blue tape, make sure you re-level after the tape is on and also clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol to remove the wax:

The problem is when you want to raise the nozzle temp from 0 to 220C it takes 220 steps to get there which takes too long as it is. Cutting the steps in half would make it take twice as long for me to set the temp to 220. I prefer the way it is now - at least for setting nozzle temp. Same for fan speed (0 to 100%) which maybe should be in increments of 2 or 5%.

I just checked and your account isn't validated. Did you lie or mistype your email? Please validate your account first and then you can post images. The validation involves an email process. Maybe the email got sent to your spam folder.

1) First of all you have also multiply by the width of the nozzle (.4mm). Volume is height X length X width. So at 60mm/sec .1 layers that's 60*.4*.1 or 2.4mm^3/sec. Even Nico can print to 4mm/sec at 230C and he seems to think is printer is broken. You shouldn't have any skips at that volume at 230C or hotter. 2) The retraction blobs can be improved by increasing retraction speed to the max (I think it's 35mm/sec) and lowering temp to 220C. 3) 250C is dangerous - I don't recommend that. If you stop the print or if it clogs you can burn the PLA a bit and cause nasty gunk in the nozzle that needs to be burned out requiring complete disassembly (not that bad really) and putting the nozzle in flame. 4) Are you *sure* it was skipping steps? Could it have been the retraction you heard? 5) How is the feeder doing? I recommend you put the filament on the floor like this:

My understanding from the original poster is that the part itself came out fine. The "problems" are only with the shield and were caused by shrinking/cooling and didn't occur on the actual part. So true! But the steppers will get hotter.

It's the machine center 0,0 thing. The center of the plate is *not* 0,0 (it's roughly 116,116). So uncheck that. You probably didn't select an ultimaker2 as your machine so you may have other issues also.

I think photoshop's new 3d thing that they have been promoting can probably output to STL which gets sliced in Cura. Anything that skips the Cura step has it's own slicer built in with it's own options to tweak. Much easier to learn just one or two slicers than to have to learn photoshops slicer and Cura's slicer and the microsoft one and kisslicer and so on.

On the top left corner of THIS PAGE look for "gallery" link. Once there the upload button is HUGE.

Maybe put the least important thing in the top 10 pixels then. Such as the name of the print. Wait - what do you mean by "stand in front of machine". If I crouch down with the display at eye level can I see the top 10 pixels then?

That robot came out okay but you can do better if you slice your own. The leveling is PERFECT! At least it looks to be perfect - the skirt looks just right - flattened a bit. The drooping strands on the overhangs (under his belly) can be improved - this is a little tricky. Typically .1mm slicing will do a little better on those. 100% fan is needed for overhangs - also slightly cooler temps might help - maybe 210 instead of 220 or 230. Lower temps have a downside though - you are more likely to underextrude.