gr5

As you mature it will be a calming experience like watching a fire.

I just saw this cool concept - a "tall skirt" which keeps the part warm from the heat from the heated bed. This is in ABS:

Are all 3 fans working on the print head?

Bitte zeigen Sie ein Foto.

Yet people sometimes rush it on their very first print. This is just one of 30 things that one may have to tweak to get a better print. Like bed temp.

I think the default bed temp for PLA is 75C which I found to be too high. 70C is much better. 75C often results in lifted corners.

Make sure the bed isn't at 75C as this is too hot. 70C works great for me. Other people say 60C is even better but I haven't tried. 75C is definitely too hot.

You have to get levelling right so don't expect first print to be perfect. It's a trial and error thing. Don't think of it as "I want the first print perfect". Think of it as, "the first print will tell me what to adjust to make the next print better".

Oh - ultimaker 2? It's even worse as I dont' think the feeder can close all the way and modifying the UM2 is not as fun as modifying the UM Original.

Return it. It's possible but not worth the trouble. Ideally you have to replace the clear bowden tube, replace the nozzle and the peek part leading to the nozzle and modify the feeder so that it can clamp onto 1.75mm (this last might not be necessary). In practice you can sometimes get away with it but if you print at reasonable speeds the pressure is too high and melted PLA shoots back up the nozzle into the upper chamber of the print head and cools there and causes horrible blockages. So you will have to print at 10mm/sec. So a 1 hour print will now take 10 hours. Just return it. You can get the new filment faster than your second print finishes.

On the other hand, cold glass as a build platform works really well. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

I'm glad you like them. But it sounds like they don't measure skipped steps so well when rpm < 1. Maybe that's good enough? edit: changed to "skipped steps"

Hot motors is normal. Did you try loosening one of the endcaps on all 4 or the rods with endcaps? This video is great for long belt tension. Not sure if it covers short belt tension:

Encoders are very good at telling backwards from forwards. Don't ask me how that works. Once you start to go all encoder, and you have powerful computer (ARM computer) you should be able to throw away all those steppers and use ordinary motors with more torque and less weight. And less wasted energy when nothing is moving.

Don't you also then need a door on the *front* of your UM? I would think the print head is also interesting to a cat maybe?

You also need to keep IC1 cool (the 12V regulator).

It simply means you need to keep the stepper controllers cool. So if you remove the cover you need a powerful fan and you need to keep checking the temperatures often so they don't melt. Maybe a desk fan.

It seems a little silly to go beyond 2 decimal places (.01mm) when the nozzle diameter is .4mm. But it looks like Daid pointed out to you the file to edit (gcodeExport.cpp). Are you going to try to rewrite Cura also? Or just the firmware. You should know that Erik Zalm (not a UM employee) who maintains the "primary" open source version of Marlin is working hard on a ARM processor version of Marlin.

You can practice slicing with Cura now. It's a free download and you don't need a printer to get started: http://software.ultimaker.com

These changes are great. I'd like to see rotation easier. Can't I just tell it that Z is the "up" axis instead of "Y"? Some kind of permanent setting so I don't have to rotate before adding support and then rotate it back in my slicer? There's also a bug in the rotation feature for some (large) parts where the rotation tick marks are too tiny to see or maybe they are off the screen.

The heated bed typically is in "bang bang" mode meaning it turns on when temp is low and off when too high. Like my house thermostat. In PID mode the bed switches on and off I believe only about 10 times per second. But ginge Marlin builder defaults to bang bang mode I think. It works just fine: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

The other workaround is probably to have the initial layer height the same as the other layers.

I just got good at holding it half way between steps when needed. For menu items it's fine though, right?

disk full?

I don't know. I saw you put in 275C. Did you build this and upload to your UM Original? Search the entire code (all files) for "260". It might be hardcoded somewhere. Beware you might damage the PEEK part if you go over 260C.