gr5

Um. Yes. That's definitely a lot. That was probably it. You got all 6 set screws for the slipping axis? Even both of the short belt ones?

Several people. SEVERAL (including me) have had the side fans simply not connected. The connectors pull out during shipping. YOu don't need any tools. Just slide up the net mesh above the print head. Slide it up the cable until you expose the wiring inside. There are 3 fan connectors - they all have red/black twisted wires going to the 3 fans. The side fans connectors (coming from inside the UM) have a different color and the side fans have a common wire connecting them together. These connectors pop out during shipment easily. Waiting for the 10th layer of a print before the fan is on is too time consuming. Instead print a random print and immediately go to tune menu (before it starts printing) and adjust fan there. You don't even need filament in the machine. You don't need to level. YOu don't need to start the print - just go to tune menu and it will not start printing until you leave the tune menu.

The problem is almost certainly: 1) A bad solder joint such that the DIR signal does not make it from the arduino to the stepper. The DIR signal tells the stepper which direction to go. It can only be high or low (5V or 0V). If this is a bad connection the stepper will only see a floating input and interpret that as always the same direction. 2) A limit switch is stuck. Both of these are VERY EASY to test with a voltmeter. The limit switches are even tested as part of the Cura first time wizard - I would run that first. #1 is easy to test also - run pronterface and move the axis in one direction several times. Look for the 5V or 0V coming from the arduino. Then reverse the direction and expect the opposite signal. After confirming this at the arduino probe the input to the stepper driver and expect the signal to make it there. If it doesn't than that "green board" you refer to has a bad solder join. There are only 2 solder joints so you just heat up those 2. If the signal instead is fine at the stepper driver than it is the stepper driver that is the problem (ignoring the DIR signal).

Those dark spots are almost certainly an older filament that was in there and FINALLY came out after such a long time. If those are ABS then that could definitely be related to the problem. The simplest solution is to just print even slower. It seems like you are having intermittent trouble either in the nozzle or with the feeder.

Oh - you keep mentioning the bearing hole is in the wrong spot and for that I got the impression that it was off by more than just a tiny bit. Did you compare it's position to the official drawings that I sent you the link to?

I just watched watched up to 3:00 in your video. You should know that I had to do hours of filing to get everything to fit. The slots were just a little bit off. Not hours for the panels alone - actually the bed was the worst. But wood expands and shrinks and the slots were all too tight (better too tight than too lose I guess). It's been over a year but if my memory is right there wasn't a single slot that fit the first time without some filing. And not only were they too tight - I had to do a little more filing on one side than the other sometimes. I have a set of very small files that fit just fine in the slot holes and sanding would have taken much too long. So I guess I'm just asking - can't you file the slot a bit and make it slightly larger to get this to fit? I also painted mine (although not as many coats) and this made everything larger and warped the wood ever so slightly but it wasn't a problem for me. While you are waiting consider assembling the head or the z stage as these can be done out of order (I may have already mentioned this to you but a few weeks have gone by so I'm not sure anymore - sorry if I already did).

I'd love to see a video when it is printing the "bad" portion. I want to see where it is approaching from an instant before.

I think the gray ribbon cable has a red stripe down one side of the cable. This red stripe normally indicates pin 1. 180 is talking about degrees. If you rotate something 180 degrees it is now rotated opposite. So you want to plug it in so that the red stripe is closer to the switch. Whatever that means.

That's not good. You shouldn't get it on startup unless you are outdoors in freezing temperatures. Or if you put your UM in an oven. resets? What resets? The screen resets to blank and reboots? This just all sounds seriously bad. I think maybe you should see if you can send back the entire PCB including the Arduino. After all the things you tried already. Contact support at support.ultimaker.com

Actually what illuminarti describes can also happen after a print finishes because it does extra retraction then and then might not re-insert properly.

I've also had zero clogs. Is your 3rd fan working? Or is it like illuminarti said and only happening when you change filament?

Me too and instead I use the menu where you can move filament slowly in or out of the head - I back it out 10mm and then put it back in. It usually takes 2 or 3 tries. But of course this doesn't help the OP.

You took a great photograph of the problem in your original post in this thread. But I can't really see the right panel underneath. Could you take a photograph of that also? That combined with the photograph of the left panel on top that you already took - and combined with the pdfs - maybe that can narrow down a specific dimension so that you can say "only ship me the left panel if the distance from the bearing hole to the edge is X mm". Something like that. UM is probably going to think you simply put the right panel on inside out. Or something like that. So if you show a photo of the right panel installed properly it is more convincing.

Have you compared the panels to the drawings? https://github.com/Ultimaker/UltimakerOriginal The above link has drawings of all the panels. Maybe you should have figured out which measurement was off (if any) before requesting a specific panel. Sorry about your frustration. Click on the above link, select the panel you care about, then you can select the pdf drawing and hit "raw" to just get the file. Or you can download the STEP file if you have autodesk, solidworks or a few other cad systems that read it. Personally I would probably just get a screen shot of the pdf, load it into photoshop and setup the mm/pixel in photoshop to match the drawing. Then make measurements directly with photoshop. Or I would photograph all my suspect panels and compare them visually on the computer screen on top of each other with the pdf images.

The UM1 is an excellent machine. I'd stick with that.

I don't know but if you are looking for the setting Robert mentions, it is under "machine settings..."

The machine instead should be designed so that no matter what combination of crash you do, nothing is damaged.

190C is very cold - toothpaste consistency for PLA. Although I often print at this temp. But when I *do* print at this temp I print slower. At 240C the PLA flows like warm honey. 210 to 220C is typical. I prefer much colder (190C) when I have lots of stringing issues but I don't think you have any stringing so for this particular part I would consider going up to 210C rather than slow it down more.

Your X axis is slipping or missing steps. Usually the suggestion is to tighten the set screws (aka grub screws) on the 6 pulleys for that axis. However when it slips such a small amount it is usually caused by missing steps. Here are some things known to cause this: 1) Power off machine and push the head around - x and y should feel about the same. Try lubricating the shaft or possibly loosening the tighter belt. Personally I wouldn't touch belt tension unless it was twice as tight as the "good" axis. 2) belts rubbing the side. Particularly the short belt between the motor and first pulley. 3) Motor rubbing side of machine. Some people recently had some kind of movement where the pulley was starting to rub against the outside of the machine. I would take off the metal cover for the "bad" axis (x axis? Right?) and look very very carefully at the belt and make sure it is well clear (a few mm) away from touching anything. While you are at it tighten the heck out of the tiny set screw in the motor pulley.

Good to know! It didn't occur to me that you could lift it farther up and it would bite harder. lePaul and I are pretty sure the filemant tangled. It was on the floor on it's side even though it was spooled.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

This is typical underextrusion. You areprinting the infill either too fast or too cold. I guess I'll go with too fast. Cura allows you to do a higher speed on the infill. This is not a good feature. Set this to 0 so that it goes at the same speed as the rest of the printing. Alternatively slow down the entire print or raise the temperature to allow more filament through the nozzle.

Consider also cutting the X and Y acceleration and max-jerk settings in half. If you don't save these it will go back to defaults when you power cycle the machine.

This is probably the best place although Daid reads this forum often also: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues

You have two choices. The UM2 comes with 2 materials in the menu system: PLA and ABS. You can either: 1) Create a new material called "CUSTOM1" that has the bed temperature and other settings that you want or 2) Modify the existing material called "PLA" to have the bed temp you want. Doing this is very confusing. I was able to do it but I don't know how I did it and it wasn't obvious what I was doing. You just have to play with it until you get it right.