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If those channels are tubes. Like straws. Then this is not hard. 3D printers can "bridge" easily. See here post #17: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=25304 The shorter the bridge distance, the easier to print.

You can post a picture anywhere on the internet and link to it from your post. Or go to "gallery" in top left corner of this page and upload your picture. Then create a new post and click "my media" next to the smiley face. 220mm is 15mm too much for the UM Original so you would need the UM2. Other than that the picture is too small - it looks like it something flat with ribs - looks extremely easy to print so there must be something I can't see.

Every print has challenges. This one isn't too bad. Please show photo and settings. Show all 6 retraction settings. Also speed and temperature and layer height.

I've only done this step cold and just use my fingers. Ha! I don't think so. The nozzle and the heat chamber is all one piece. No clogs yet though.

If you had something the same dimensions and thickness of the glass you could replace the glass with that.

About 10 iphones worth of weight. I have a 1/2 inch aluminum 8X8 inch plate. It weighs about a kilogram. Z works well.

As Illuminarti says, .8mm and turning combing back on should help with the bumps somewhat. This is optional, but to improve the look even more you can lower the temp and lower the speed. If you aren't in a rush, try 200C and 30mm/sec and .1mm layers. It will take "forever" but it will look nicer. Don't lower the temp and keep the same speed though as 90mm/sec, .2mm layers is too fast for 200C. You should add a brim also to reduce the lifting of the corners of this part. And clean your blue tape with alcohol. Those two things will keep the 4 corners from lifting.

I call that "stringing". I can usually get stringing down to zero if I print very very slow (20mm/sec), cold (190C) and turn on retraction to 4.5mm with both the expert retraction settings set to 0mm. Although some filaments still string a little bit no matter what but these are very fine hairs. Layer height might matter also - not sure. For small parts like this coin you need as much fan as possible (100%).

Wow - I like that theory. Unless the filament is wet of course. DoktrMIke - I recommend an experiment. This will help you with other issues as well as it provides you with a new set of tools. Download pronterface. It's free. Go half way down this page: https://github.com/kliment/Printrun And follow the installation instructions. Hmm - I got a different simpler version from somewhere. Then experiment with max speeds for the extruder. It used to be that if you asked for 40mm/sec you got 20mm/sec but if you asked for 20mm/sec you got 5mm/sec or something like that but there have been changes in the firmware (not in Cura though) and if you somehow got the latest Marlin 40mm/sec is much too fast. My max speed is 25mm/sec for the extruder and it seems fine so when I ask for 40mm/sec I get 25mm/sec (I have the latest Marlin). You need to learn the gcodes for setting the feedrate (F) and for setting max speed for extruder: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code See M203 as in: M203 E25 Sets extruder to 25mm/sec max so if you ask for 40mm/sec then it only goes 25mm/sec. BUT DON'T DO THIS PERMANENTLY for marlin that comes with cura as that one has a bug and 25mm/sec is much slower than you want. Anyway you also have to save your final max speed which you can do with ulticontroller or with printrun: M500 If you don't do M500 then when you power cycle it will go back to the previous values.

Nice experiments! Yes, 220 is too hot. The rest look reasonable. Going by these pictures 190 looks quite good but often with colder temps you get bad adhesion between layers so I would recommend some destructive testing now that you have taken your pictures.

Yes - that's what I have experienced. I assume this is the same thing. I suppose it could be a blob on the currently-top-layer also. Clipping has many meanings but one is a sports term where player 1 collides with player 2 but player 1 keeps moving and is mostly unaffected. Player 2 however is usually affected and unhappy. Happens in basketball, hockey, football (american) and football/soccer.

It's not good but it happens all the time. It tends to happen like I said when the edges are lifting. It has to do with PLA shrinking - it has nothing to do with the accuracy of the UM. Upper layers of PLA pull in and the lower levels get compressed horizontally and if the part is shaped like an upside down pyramid, the walls rotate upward and get hit by the nozzle. In theory the solution is to have a heated chamber above the glass temp of PLA (around 65C) but in practice I can fix this with the right shaped support.

And here is the image jet loaded. Jet next time after loading to gallery, when you make your post, click "my media" next to the smiley face.

Not sure. Would be best if you could photograph the shape of the supports before they break off. Or post a picture of what it looks like. You designed the supports yourself? I'm really surprised they would break off in the middle, and not at the bottom. I guess you just need thicker supports maybe? And try to make them mostly vertical. There is a problem with supports or objects that "lean outward". When the PLA shrinks it pulls to the middle and tends to rotate the upper (current) edges of these parts to the vertical which causes them to be tall enough to get hit by the fan shroud. So try to stick with vertical supports and don't let the supports get wider as they get higher - make sure they either stay the same width, or get narrower.

Well it works fine from the Cura print window so why not use that? Did you make sure there was an M1 command in the gcode?

I recommend skipping right to the part where you remove the nozzle. This skips over the part where you loosen the 4 screws and I've had more problems with the nozzle than further up the print head.

What country are you in? UM is planning to ship from USA at some point. Not sure if ulticontroller and other "parts" is included in that plan yet. But I see makershed.com is selling the dual extruder upgrade along with the UM original kit (with UC) and UM2. But no UC alone yet. Maybe if you wait...

Just to clarify - the vertical movement is graphics only - it's just an indication, not a movement - the Z axis doesn't actually move. The extruder does.

No. You have to enable retraction checkbox and you might also have to set the to "mm" distances to 0 in the advanced settings. You can tell which moves have retraction because at the start of the blue line there is a vertical movement. Of course you have to select that layer first with the slider scrollbar on the right side first.

Well, yeah, but slowly is usually like maybe a half second. So the problem should be very fixable by simply slowing it down. 30mm/sec should be slow enough. I'm confused though as you said you tried this already?? Are you sure? Maybe you have a fluctuating temperature? If the temp got down to 170 while printing at 30mm/sec that could also explain this problem. I'm wondering if maybe you ground up the filament a bit and the extruder eventually "got lucky" and started working again. I mean I have to admit 90mm/sec at .2mm layers at 230C is quite doable but on the fast side of things. Make sure your extruder spring is around 11 to 11.5mm long when closed on the filament. You should just try it again but at 40mm/sec or so. No other changes - just lower you feedrate to 45%.

I already looked at it illuminarti - it's fine.

That's not 100% true. I don't know about printrun but the print window in cura understands about the pause and you can continue on the pc using cura and it somehow sends something through USB to continue the print. If I were you I would just insert an M1 very very early in the print gcode just to see what happens from printrun. Then abort the print once you know the answer.

YES, DAID? LISTENING? That would be a nice feature.

Yes. Each will need different settings. You will slowly get very good at knowing what settings to use.

Love it. Here's something similar that I printed - lithographs: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:40709