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Yes. Meanwhile you can use cura 13.10.

You can do it. When I said "yes" I meant "yes". You *can* take an STL file from thingiverse and import it into *almost* any cad software and then do as many edits as you want. When the model is a gear, this is easy. When the model has 1 million triangles, it's not so easy. If you have really good expensive software like solidworks you can do boolean operations and mix two models together. Also there is lots of free software out there to do things like add an arm to the top of a rabbits head. Autodesk has some free 3d printing software that does lots of great stuff like this. Autodesk has quite a few free applications geared towards 3d printing. I'm not sure how useful they are - I'm a bit skeptical. They seem a little buggy to me. But the answer to your question is "Yes, you can edit these models".

Try cutting P and I in half from original and leaving D alone: M301 P18.30 I0.76 D110.03 Also how much more powerful is the new hot end? If it is 50% more watts then I would reduce all the values by the inverse (multiply them by 0.66). power = p*(current error in degrees) + I*(integrated error) - D*(slope of temp change) (D term is actually +D*(slope of error change) which is the same as -D*(slope of temp change) because the set point doesn't move much).

Oh! I see you already tried M303 in your photo. Sucks! Well I guess you need to go for option #2 above.

2 things: 1) When you do do autotune you set the goal temperature. Simply lower this goal temperature to avoid the abort issue. For example download and install pronterface/printrun (it's free) and you can now send gcodes to the printer by typing them. https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/ Search for M303 in the above. Again, use a different goal temperature for the tuning. The nice thing is it displays the calculated P,I,D values in pronterface when done. 2) I recommend this article on PID controllers: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller There's tons of information in there. I guess the thing you want to understand: P is the most important factor. You can set P alone and it will work but it will oscillate if too high or it will take forever and never quite get up to temp if too low. I helps long term to find the exact right temp. It integrates the error over the whole time you've had it turned on and adjust accordingly. This is what makes it eventually work perfect after a few minutes. D reduces oscillation and over shoot - it sees that you are heating up too fast and puts on the brakes so to speak. Daid has a mode in the latest marlin that lets you see the contributions from P,I, and D as a graph in Cura. I don't know how to enable all that. To get the latest Marlin you would have to build your own as this isn't offerred with any Marlin's that come with Cura. So if you have oscillation you want to increase D a little and decrease P and I a little. But it could take weeks to figure this all out with many trial and error. So hopefull #1 above will help you.

Yes. Most models are in STL format which you can import into most CAD programs and edit. STL is not the best as it doesn't store all the original design information but it is usually okay. For example the original cad may have many parts grouped seperately so you can easily move them, delete some of them, change the size of just part of the model and so on. With STL it's just one big model. One color. Some of the models also include original cad files which is great if you have that particular cad program.

The second photo - the black and white one - shows you what underextrustion looks like on side walls but it is not as obvious on the side as it is on the top: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Ahh - good - I'm glad the keychain isn't wavy/wobbly and it was just because the part was still hot. BOTTOM LAYER GOOD: The homing height is hard to get perfect. .1mm is the width of a piece of paper. If your bottom layer is for example .2mm and your bed to nozzle distance is .1mm closer than you thought then it will in effect over-extrude and you will get a beautiful bottom layer. Maybe you aren't off by 50% - maybe only 30%. Maybe your bottom layer was 30% closer to nozzle than you thought (.066mm if .2mm bottom layer .1mm if .3mm bottom layer - by default bottom layer is thicker (.3mm) in cura to compensate for errors in leveling). Also Cura tends to print the bottom layer slower than other layers. Although maybe not for this case. Plus if you have heated bed set over 70C that might help the plastic flow nicely into a thinner flatter layer. But I doubt it is this last thing - more likely homing height. When I look at the top of your cuboids and keychain I see huge gaps. Almost as wide as the filament. It looks just like underextrusion. I wouldn't mind seeing a side view to see if the sides look underextruded also - that's a different look that is hard to describe. If (on the fly) you set flow to 200% you would get a nice beautiful top. Also your walls seems to have a gap between each other - this also can be caused by underextrusion (and other things). How did you calibrate your extruder steps/mm? Was it something they told you to do in the instructions? There are jumpers on the stepper board and if you add or remove one the steps can be off by 2X.

Yes. But leaves skirt on. You can click on the object and scale it to 0.9 (90%) and let it slice and look at the bottom layer to make sure brim and skirt are definitely off and to see how close the part is to those gray squares. If you are really sure it isn't going to hit your clips then for now I would just slice with cura 13.10 until this is fixed.

There were probably zero retractions for that part. Well - it looks like serious under extrusion. Also the fact that your wall is wiggly is scary - makes me wonder if you parts are loose or if your rods are straight or what - something is all wobbly. Anyway - the underextrusion is the main issue. This can have many issues. I'm going to guess you are printing too cold. For a cube, where I don't care about retraction, I would print at 230C. Just try it and print the cube again. You might have the extruder miscalibrated. I mean it looks like you are getting a flow of 50% (half of what is needed). Consider doing a test where you extrude 10mm of filament and see how far the filament actually moves. Make sure you do this nice and slow. What speed did you print these cubes? 185C to 195C is quite cold and PLA tends to be like thick toothpaste at these temperatures - some brands/colors won't extrude at all at 185C although usually it's fine if you print slow enough and if your extruder is strong enough. My extruder can pull 22 pounds of force on the filament. Consider testing yours. At 190C I print slow: 20mm/sec. Because any faster and the risk of grinding the filament to dust with the extruder increases.

ABS and PLA parts look almost identical. There is no "finer detail" with either one. I have trouble telling them apart. The biggest problem with ABS is it shrinks much more than PLA when it cools. This causes all kinds of problems! Some of these problems are fixed with a heated bed. Some parts will require a heated chamber. The worst thing about PLA is it can't handle temperatures in a hot automobile with windows rolled up in the summer.

But he mixed his settings - some used "." and some used ",". Can you do that? I just checked. It works fine. So "1,2" is fine.

@mark hale - Try removing brim and skirt - go to advanced settings and set skirt lines to 0.

I don't understand. Do you mean nozzle *doesn't* continue to print? Please post a picture of the failed print.

yes. Ultimaker2 only as you need a heated bed for most ABS printing. ABS printing creates smelly gases and is more difficult due to shrinking. But yes. http://designforcraft.myshopify.com/collections/filaments/products/abs-v0-flame-retardant-3mm

1) Go to "file" "machine" and make sure the dimensions are correct there. 2) Go to "machine" menu and make sure ultimaker2 is chosen 3) Turn off brim and skirt. In fact I don't think you can turn off skirt without going to expert settings and set line count to 0. It's probably the skirt that is messing you up. If you look at the print in "layer view" you can see if it was the skirt that was messing you up - look at layer 0.

What's a cuboid? It doesn't sound like something that has retraction. Please post picture. This could be underextrusion or play or cooling issues - a photo will say it all. Sorry if you already said: is this UM1 or UM2.

I recommend you first call makershed to verify the availability. If it's true don't tell anyone until your order is placed I'm skeptical but it *is* possible. I'm confident you can cancel your order through UM but I can't promise anything - I don't work for UM. If maker shed has them available (which I kind of doubt) then I would PM Sander directly here to inquire about cancelling your order: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/user/423-sandervg/ My understanding is that Sander is not involved in manufacturing or shipping schedules but that he is the head of sales and support. He's a very nice person and treats customers very well.

It is possible you need to create 3 to 5 posts before you are allowed to upload to the gallery. You could use imgur, facebook, google+, picasa, dropbox, or many other free services to post a public image on the web and then link to it from your posting. Channels should be very easy. You only need "support" for things in the air. Printers print a layer at a time but if there is nothing in the layer below than there is often trouble with a few exceptions. It can print angled overhangs (imagine a wall tilted) well past 45 degrees - sometimes even 80 degrees tilted wall but quality gets worse after 60 degrees tilted. Also bridges aren't too hard (I linked to images of bridges in my earlier post). Your biggest challenge is probably warping for a part this large. You might need a heated bed (ultimaker2 as the Ultimaker original doesn't come with heated bed yet - they are working on it). What happens is as you print the upper layers on large parts (more than 4 inches) they cool and pull and the bottom corners of the part start lifting off the print bed. A heated bed keeps the bottom 5mm above the glass temperature of your print material so that it can't pull so hard and also helps it stick better. There are many solutions but some of them require some room past the edge. Also the UM2 can physically print to 225mm but I think there might be still some bugs/defaults that stop it at 205mm so you might have to do a few simple tricks (change 'machine settings', possibly rebuild firmware) to get that to work. Also that bug might be fixed soon before your printer arrives anyway. Check out the many things people have printed using UM1 and UM2 here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/467-post-your-latest-print/

Note that you only showed 3 of the retraction settings. There were more in the "expert" "expert settings" which I mention in my post above.

1) did you stop it early? Or did it stop printing? 2) Try these settings: Change shell thickness from "1,2" to "0.8". (1,2 = 1 which is bad. 1.2 is okay also) Change speed to 20mm/sec (if you want beauty you need to print slow). Change layer height from ".25" to ".1" Change temperature from "210" to "190" (this might be too low but try it anyway - it should be okay) Change support type to "none". Change fill density from "20" to "0" (for this part only - most parts I use "20") In expert/expert settings under "retraction" change "minimum travel" to 0 and change "minimal extrusion before retracting" to 0 also. This is important. "combing" doesn't matter for this part - I always leave this checked. If the part doesn't stick to the bed well, try printing the first layer at 230C and then the remaining layers at 190C. Also your first layer is too high off the bed so raising the bed a quarter turn of all 4 bed leveling screws would help a small amount. This is not critical. Try this and post another picture.

Yes. Pretty much anything that can be printed at 250C or lower will work in the UMs. The UM2 especially can handle high temperatures well. I suspect you can go much higher than 250C as long as the rear fan is working but the default firmware won't allow this. I have printed PA6 nylon on the UM2 and it works fine. The Ultimaker 1 and 2 is a superior design in many ways but one drawback is that it can't handle filament larger than 3.000mm as it can get stuck in the clear plastic bowden tube. Also it has more trouble than most printers with rubbery filament (solved by adding a drop of oil to the filament and printing extra slow) because it pushes the filament through the tube instead of pulling. I notice that this flame retardant filament is 2.9mm so this will work fine in the UM2.

The printer will think a wire is broken if the print head gets below 5C (what country do you live in ifti? Please update your profile to show your country). This is resolved by holding it in your hand for 20 seconds. Dust on the filament is very bad. The dust can get in the print head and cause a clog. So a dusty garage would be bad. A clean garage is fine. But you can add a cleaning device around the filament just before it enters the feeder. This might help. Keep your filament as dry as possible. Over many months PLA will absorb some water and it will turn to steam in the print head and cause tiny holes or other ugliness. I store unused PLA in plastic food bags.

You can use other slicers with the UM or UM2 just fine. And Cura works with other 3d printers. But it's strongly recommended to start with Cura as it is easy and is customized a little for the UM machines. Try it. It's free and you can learn a lot by playing with it. Get an STL model from thingiverse.com or youmagine.com if you don't have any.

No but a lot of learning. However this forum will help you. As long as you post pictures of your failures and what settings you used we can tell you what to change. Nozzles can get clogged. You have to be brave and take it apart. It's not hard - just scary and annoying. Dust can be a problem. All FDM 3D printers (printers with a nozzle) will have this problem sometimes. I have only had 1 clog on my UM Original, and zero clogs on UM2 but others have had clogs. Push it through.