gr5

Probably not. More likely the later - nothing comes out and pressure gets high enough that the extruder motor simply "clicks" and jumps back and misses steps. No big deal as long as there are a few more layers with similar foot print. The default for cura I think puts the bottom layer at .3mm.

You can't? You don't need to heat the bed to print - but you *do* need to heat the nozzle. I would think there is enough power for the nozzle and the steppers. No? You can print cold on the blue tape (you have to relevel of course) and there are tricks for printing on cold glass here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

The UM2 has software controlled stepper current. There is a way to control it but you would have to add a special gcode command to your gcode file before copying it to the SD card.

Dual nozzles just doesn't work very well yet. The "off" nozzle drips and makes a terrible mess. Also increasing the speed on infill reduces quality as you get over extrusion when it goes back to the skin. But if you are making parts that no one will notice (like the feet on ultimaker or gears burried in a mechanism) this could be useful.

I used to see this often when I used to do USB printing (I don't any more so it might be that) and also I upgraded my firmware last January and haven't seen it since (also did more upgrades this past spring). The version of marlin you get from here is much much newer than that which comes with cura. And it has some very nice and minor feature improvements - try it and if you don't like it you can just reinstall the version that comes with cura: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ So I'm thinking it is a bug related to USB printing or maybe a bug that was fixed in Marlin.

Because of the flexibility of the clear bowden tube there is a springiness to the pressure on the filament in the nozzle. So when you speed up you are getting higher pressures getting that PLA through that tiny nozzle, and when you slow down it reduces pressure. But there is a delay to the pressure. So when you have a path that is a long rectangle, on the long edge you are extruding faster at higher speeds. When you get to the corner it slows down and over extrudes a bit as it approaches the corner, it then goes around two tight corners slowly and then as it accelerates out of the second corner for the long edge you get underextrusion because of this delay. That's why the angel wings have that underextrusion just on the corners. You can even tell that it was a counter clockwise movement on the right wing in the photograph at head height (underextrusion). The upper portion of that wing is probably showing a z-scar. All of this is fixed with a slower speed as you don't have such extreme pressure changes in the nozzle because you don't have as extreme speed changes (the short distance is at the same speed but the long distance is slower than before). This "half way through" has nothing to do with the height of the part that is being printed and has everything to do with the geometry or path that the print head goes in.

I don't remember that at all. That's a pretty amazing print speed for 200C. I had NO IDEA it was a makerbot. I was assuming all this time it was a reprap. Do you know how he got the antennas so good? With such a small area the nozzle never lets the plastic cool long enough - maybe he has a better slicer for antennas - cura prints 2 layers on one antenna, then 2 on the other. Instead of alternating. Saves time but you get more melted antennas. So Weiin - how did my robot photos compare to your sample from the rep2? You never answered that question. Please compare the pictures in post #6 above to the rep2 made robot in your hand. And realize that if my pictures don't fill the screen you aren't zooming enough - first click on a picture, then right click and select "view image" then click again to get full size. They look about the same to me - I don't see either being better than the other.

Wow! Nice paint job! I thought this was an 8 inch part until I looked at the other image that includes your fingers!

Ha! I don't buy it. I'm not convinced the UM1 can't do just as good if you print just as slow and have your retraction "tuned".

I personally think it's too early to say. I suspect the UM2 extruder drive isn't as powerful as the UM Original. Quality and speed of prints is going to be similar - identical maybe even. However... The UM2 is much more beautiful. Probably much more reliable - especially - well everything from electronics to clogs (um original more likely to clog). I suspect it can print hotter. It has slightly larger build volume It is quieter. It is easier to use (the leveling part - almost everything else is about the same but levelling is a pain so this is sooo much better on the UM2). Also extruder is easier. And you can print more materials than just PLA. UM Original is pretty much pla. But if you wait 6 months their (hopefuly/likely) upcoming heated bed for UM Original will fix that. UM 1 is much more hackable. And if it breaks it's less scary for most people to just fix it (not that it's easier but who cares if you have to add a wire tie or drill a hole in the UM Original).

I love printbl.

pc or mac? Is this for a class? Is this for a project? Will you only be doing console (text in and text out) stuff or gui (like buttons and graphics and text boxes and such) also?

Wow. Wow. Yeah it looks compatible. Usually these types of boards need minor modification (swap a cable around or cut a trace) to work with Ultimaker but in this case it appears to be compatible (don't know for sure). I hope they published their design and parts list and so on. If they didn't they may be in violation of the license.

I'm guessing the panel slipped at some point while it was being cut. I know one other person who got a bad panel where it doesn't align but I think this only happens to maybe 1%.

You can send gcodes by hand also if you learn them. There are descriptions here: great reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code scroll way down to the gcodes on this page: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/

:-P Yes, it's very nice. Notice that when it connects it determines all kinds of things about your printer. For example the PID values of the nozzle and the max acceleration and so on.

See post #10: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=17300 Try: more fan more top/bottom layers MORE FAN try filament cooler (200C?) and more fan! Check your side fans. Make sure they "blow" and not "suck"

Try doing only a home, then an M84 gcode. After that are the steppers on? Can you move the print head? Or are the servos still on? Slice with some other slicer that works for you - then look at the gcodes towards the end.

There should be a little pack of green grease that came with your UM2. With the blue tape and screwdriver. If you don't already have lots and lots of grease on the z-screw then add it! If you touch the Z screw the grease should get all over your fingers. A "pea" sized drop is good, then move the bed up and down 3 times to spread it around.

By the way, I looked it up and both alcohol or acetone works to remove flux. Even the best flux can cause corrosive damage to your circuit board over many years so it is best to clean it off although most electronics don't as most electronics aren't designed to last more than 5 years.

Solder has mixed in with it a gunky brown material called "flux". Flux helps the solder flow but once you are done soldering it is no longer needed. Some people wash the flux off with a powerful solvent such as freon (alcohol works I think). Flux looks VERY SIMILAR to heat damage. But it is not damage. If you touch it then it should feel sticky. It should clean off with powerful solvents (not water). To post a picture you can upload anywhere on the internet such as imgur.com but if you insist on uploading here click "gallery" in the top left corner of this page, then click upload. Once your picture is uploaded, start a new post and click "my media" next to the smiley face icon. New users (under 3 posts? 5 posts?) can't upload to the gallery.

Ah!! Smart! This is the first I read about that but have been wondering. Daid, is there any way to set the home position with a gcode? I mean in pronterface could I 1) move z to -.03 and then 2) send a gcode to set this has "home"? I'm hoping I can at least do #2 but I suspect I can't do either. Instead I think I would have to re-run the homing procedure or turn the 3 screws a bit.

Nice. I assume those wrinkles are in the STL? And that tiny hole is because the wrinkles got too close? I like the look of this material.

Damn you Weiin for keeping secrets!!! :evil: You win. I can't do it any longer. Weiin will probably brag (in private) that he can get just as good quality on some other printer at 40mm/sec and I won't be able to say anything because I didn't try other speeds. It's hard to win your contest Weiin when you keep secrets and only post blurry pictures. I did those white robots on the UM1. I haven't done much retraction on the UM2 but 4.5mm doesn't seem enough so I recommend 5.5mm retraction (which Illuminarti had good luck with on the UM2). Here are the UM original settings: I printed on blue tape with no heated bed. 1) The trick to get antennas is to print 2 robots so they have time to cool (what a waste! without the antennas I could have printed only one robot, 2x faster and at 210C although when done you get 2 robots). 2) To minimize stringing (I had none. No cleanup!) I set temp to 190C (and enabled retraction and set retraction expert minimums to 0mm) 3) To get good quality at such a low temp I did 20mm/sec (I normally print at 100mm/sec) 4) I did 3 shells (1.2mm shell) to keep infill or other stuff from making the outer edge ugly. 5) .1mm layer height I did this back on October 5 so I'm not sure what version of Cura was out then, probably 13.06.4. I still have all the settings in the gcode file so here it is converted to a profile: [profile] layer_height = 0.1 wall_thickness = 1.2 retraction_enable = True solid_layer_thickness = .4 fill_density = 20 nozzle_size = 0.4 print_speed = 20 print_temperature = 0 print_temperature2 = 0 print_temperature3 = 0 print_temperature4 = 0 print_bed_temperature = 0 support = None platform_adhesion = None support_dual_extrusion = False filament_diameter = 2.85 filament_diameter2 = 0 filament_diameter3 = 0 filament_diameter4 = 0 filament_flow = 100 retraction_speed = 50 retraction_amount = 4.5 retraction_dual_amount = 16.5 bottom_thickness = .3 object_sink = 0 overlap_dual = 0.2 travel_speed = 150 bottom_layer_speed = 30 infill_speed = 0.0 cool_min_layer_time = 0 fan_enabled = True skirt_line_count = 2 skirt_gap = 15 fan_layer = 1 fan_speed = 100 fan_speed_max = 100 cool_min_feedrate = 0 cool_head_lift = False solid_top = True solid_bottom = True fill_overlap = 15 support_rate = 75 brim_line_count = 6 raft_margin = 5 raft_line_spacing = 1.0 raft_base_thickness = 0.3 raft_base_linewidth = 0.7 raft_interface_thickness = 0.2 raft_interface_linewidth = 0.2 fix_horrible_union_all_type_a = False fix_horrible_union_all_type_b = False fix_horrible_use_open_bits = False fix_horrible_extensive_stitching = False plugin_config = (lp1 (dp2 S'params' p3 (dp4 S'pauseLevel' p5 V.4 p6 sS'parkY' p7 V190 p8 sS'parkX' p9 V190 p10 sS'retractAmount' p11 V5 ssS'filename' p12 S'pauseAtZ.py' p13 sa. object_center_x = -1 object_center_y = -1 [alterations] start.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F90 E6 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G4 P2000 ; pause 2 seconds G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Printing... end.gcode = ;End GCode M104 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning start2.gcode = ;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time} ;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density} ;Print time: {print_time} ;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g ;Filament cost: {filament_cost} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm T1 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-{retraction_dual_amount} T0 G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{travel_speed} M117 Printing... end2.gcode = ;End GCode M104 T0 S0 ;extruder heater off M104 T1 S0 ;extruder heater off M140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it) G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the way M84 ;steppers off G90 ;absolute positioning support_start.gcode = support_end.gcode = cool_start.gcode = cool_end.gcode = replace.csv = nextobject.gcode = ;Move to next object on the platform. clear_z is the minimal z height we need to make sure we do not hit any objects. G92 E0 G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressure G1 Z+0.5 E-5 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even more G90 ;absolute positioning G1 Z{clear_z} F{max_z_speed} G92 E0 G1 X{object_center_x} Y{object_center_y} F{travel_speed} G1 F200 E6 G92 E0 switchextruder.gcode = ;Switch between the current extruder and the next extruder, when printing with multiple extruders. G92 E0 G1 E-36 F5000 G92 E0 T{extruder} G1 X{new_x} Y{new_y} Z{new_z} F{travel_speed} G1 E36 F5000 G92 E0

Don't email ultimaker. Open a support ticket at support.ultimaker.com Be aware that they have already gone home for the day as it is noon here in Boston but 6pm in The Netherlands. They will likely send you a free one promptly as of course they are in stock and it will probably take about 3 or 4 days once they ship it. While you are waiting for it consider assembling the Z stage and/or the print head as those can be done "out of order" and take a while. Also the ulticontroller (although that doesn't take long at all!). The Z stage took a very long time for me compared to everything else. I had to do a hours of filing.