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Any light oil should work fine but preferably without a lot of additives (WD40 has additives).

If it's supposed to be right handed he can just mirror it in Cura or in cad.

Oh! Yes, cold solder joint. Get some reading glasses or a magnifying glass and get some very bright light. google "cold solder joint" and select "images". This will show you many examples of what one looks like. Each one you see you can fix by touching it to a soldering iron for a few seconds. Don't leave the iron on there for more than 20 seconds or so.

Were you careful to flash with UM1 firmware and not UM2 firmware? I think you have to select "machine" first.

Also can you get it to do it more often if you push down on the bed?

Did you look at the z screw? Is it rotating when this happens? I have 10 theories that might cause this. I'm not excited about any of them. Lets try to eliminate some things. For example the Z stepper might be too weak to hold the bed up. If so you should be able to see it rotate on every "pop". Or the linear bearings might be defective. Or the vertical friction might be extreme and the Z axis might move in a mixture of small and large steps. Or there could be a cura bug that is moving the Z on purpose or many other things. Or the Z nut might be loose and rotating. Try to get some video of the z axis to see if it is rotating. Try to get some video of one of those 2 vertical rods that shows the movement when the "pop" happens. for the rotation of the z axis it might be better to video from below the bed but don't let your phone or hands get crushed! Also it would be good to show the extruder motor in a video while the popping occurs. I suspect the popping is caused by 2 different things: 1) Extruder motor 2) Something to do with the Z axis And the videos you posted only showed #1 possibly. #1 could possibly continue after printing is stopped but only 2 or 3 times.

Just to explain further, this is difficult in sketchup (unless there is some plugin I don't know about). You would have to probably duplicate the threads and shrink the copy and then put the copy inside the larger threads where the smaller threads would be the inner wall. Then you would have to give your threads a top and bottom. For me this would probably take hours. Much easier to give the threads a top and a bottom. Also I recommend "spiralize" if you want it hollow and I recommend lowering the part below the bed a bit (in cura quality settings) and also make the shell thickness between .4 and .6mm only (any thicker and spiralize doesn't work so well).

Nancy already answered your question. Your walls MUST HAVE THICKNESS. Do you understand? For example if you wanted a hollow vertical cylinder/tube you would need to have TWO cylinders - one inside the other to represent the inner and outer walls. You would also need a "ring" at the top and bottom to represent the top and bottom of the solid area. So as this applies to your bolt. Put a top and bottom onto your bolt. That will make it a solid object. If you really want it hollow then you can tell cura not to print a top and bottom (two seperate checkboxes and you can tell it to do zero infill. But the model must have a top and bottom. Or you can do it the hard way and give your walls of your bolt some thickness. Make it at least .8mm thick if you go this harder route as Cura usually won't slice walls thinner than .8mm.

I know the feeling. I always look at Cura "layer view" before printing. Carefully. I sometimes zip through every layer 5 or 6 times looking at it from a few different angles and staring at a different portion of the part.

My values are: P 22 I 1 D 114 I think these are the default values.

Bed level only affects the first layer. Sometimes the second layer. Consider simply lowering the P value by 2X. More about PID here: http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9gulateur_PID

Should be 9 amps, not 5.0A. So that's your problem. Create a ticket asap at support.ultimaker.com and they should get on it first thing tomorrow. In the mean time you can print just fine on cold glass. Create a new "filament" that wants the heated bed to be 0C or change the existing PLA filament to want heated bed at 0C. Then either print on the blue tape cold (but first cleaned with alcohol to get the wax off the blue tape) or you can print on cold glass if the first layer of PLA is at 240C and if you put some gluestick on there first. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/

double negatives are confusing. You mean the temp oscillates between 190C and 216C? Yes that could be a problem. At 190C the plastic is thick like toothpaste and tends to underextrude. UM Original? Do you have an ulticontroller? Consider re-running the Cura first-run wizard that autotunes the PID values for your nozzle. You will need to connect your computer to your printer with a USB cable to do this. Make a note of the PID values. If not displayed by cura there are 2 other ways to get them (pronterface or using ulticontroller). The PID values control how the UM sets the temperature. If P or I are too large it will oscillate. D reduces oscillation but if D is too high or P is too low it will take a long time to reach the desired temperature.

Ultimaker accidentally shipped the wrong power supplies for some UM2 machines and they just discovered it today. Please send a photo of your power "brick" that shows the amperage to Ultimaker support and they will ship you a new one immediately. In the mean time, I recommend putting some blue tape over the glass (should have been included) and print on cold glass. You can even print directly on cold glass if you use the glue stick, use hot PLA. More details on printing on glass here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ edit: for example print first layer at 240C and use glue stick and you should be fine. You can lower the temp when it starts the second layer.

You can do a simple test to determine if the problem is the nozzle or the bed or neither. On controller do: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Then either: Heatup head or Heatup buildplate Increase the temp until it is above current temp. At that moment power will be sent to the nozzle or heat bed and if this causes the failure then you probably have a short in that system. If both by themselves are fine, try heating both at once. Maybe your power supply "brick" is wimpy (defective) and you need a new one because it can't supply the full needed power.

Try taking a video and looking at the video.

>start to warp, miss lines, or extrude too much. Sounds like 3 different problems. Maybe 3 different posts? Well I'll address just one issue - around the area of the angel's wings there is some underextrusion (holes). This is caused by changes in extruder speed. Easiest way to fix this is to slow things down and also make sure your fill speed is the same as your normal print speed (movement speed should stay fast!). If you want it to be really beautiful print really slow - like 20mm/sec. Alright two issues - if you want to reduce strings, lower speed *and* temperature. Try 190C or even 180C. These are dangerously cold (you can get underextrusion easily if you don't print slow enough) but temps below 200C can usually eliminate stringing. I usually go for 195C as a compromise but the best temperature depends on the color and brand of PLA: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

For mobile covers I would download one from thingiverse and then edit it myself. My favorite covers are those that have a pattern of holes in the phone that match an image. Like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97805 This is my phone cover: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case Actually I redid that cover and it looks better now. Don't have a picture though. For fashion - do you mean maybe jewelry?

So Luxy - if you got that - Valcrow and I both think you need a new nozzle - a better nozzle. Consider sending a PM to illuminarti as he might sell you one. Or get one from UM. The nozzle you have now - I'm not sure if you created it or if it came from Ultimaker but it looks very bad.

I use sketchup quite a bit. Unfortunately it's too easy to create internal faces or holes in a face which confuse slicers. The way the slicer works mostly is it finds the intersection of a plane with every (every!) polygon in the stl. This results in many unconnected lines. Then it looks to see which lines end at the same point and tries to create a loop. If it can't create a loop and if you didn't check any of the "fix horrible" checkboxes then it discards that. Then it takes the loops and figures out which loops represent an external wall and which an internal "hole" in the part. Anyway the point is your model must be perfect for this to work. If 2 polygons don't quite meet then it won't work - one of the fix horrible will assume lines touch if they are "close enough". Other's try to repair holes and other mistakes. If you view your part in cura in the "xray" view it will show most of the problem areas in red. If you see any red at all I recommend going back to sketchup and fixing those spots. You can also try this which removes internal surfaces (but can remove important surfaces also if you aren't careful: http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html But again - it's not just internal faces that are a problem - it's also holes in your surface that mess up the slicing of layers that intersect the hole or gap.

Cura centers the part in X and Y on the center of the machine (around 100,100mm - maybe 102.5,102.5?) and raises the part so the lowest point is at z=0. There should be no other transformations unless you purposefully scale the part.

Sounds like the arduino got damaged somehow. Or maybe a bad solder joint between the arduino and the stepper driver. What country are you in? (please put that in your profile). Here in the USA you can get a new arduino for $20 including shipping. In other words, they are so cheap you might as well have an extra one or two sitting around.

That won't help. Instead model a tower next to the part. Or just print 2. I recommend printing 2 because then you end up with two. lol. It won't help because the problem is that the print is too small at the teeth - the nozzle never leaves the melted pla so the pla never has a chance to cool.

How does it smell??

That is a very strange looking nozzle. It has a huge flat area. And it's more spherical - mine is more shaped like a cone. Are you sure it's a .4mm nozzle? If that's a .2mm nozzle with a 2mm flat area... There's something weird with this nozzle. Here are 2 pics of the nozzle that came with my ULtimaker Original. It works great!