gr5

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1056-printing-directly-to-glass/

Yes. Place glass on top of existing print bed. Use glass small enough not to cover leveling screws. The purpose of the glue is because PLA doesn't stick well to cold glass. You need the glue. Then use something like this to attach glass to bed: http://forums.reprap.org/file.php?263,file=18853

picture please!

Nice! 1) On one side there are vertical lines caused by infill showing through. You can fix this by increasing your shell thickness some more. If you were using 0-.6 then try .8. If you were using 0.6 to 1.1 then instead try 1.2. 2) The stringing is fixable but I wouldn't bother with this print as there isn't much and it's easy to clean up but you could give it a quick shot - make sure "retraction" is checked and in advanced set the two distances to 0 (I don't think they should ever be non-zero). 3) "Bottom" Those are the easy fixes. Here is the hard one: I can see the tape marks in your print - the wrinkles in tape. To fix the bottom I recommend getting some glass from your local glass store - spend the $5 or so to get a cut piece that fits nicely on your bed but doesn't interfere with the leveling screws. Get a thick piece if you can (5mm). Be very careful when you home the bed not to break the glass! Because the new home position will have moved - a lot! Also buy a glue stick from an office supply store. Coat the glass with some glue stick before you print. Use a damp cloth to spread the glue stick evenly and thinly and wait for it to dry. Print the first layer at 240C and then switch back to whatever temp you printed this at after first layer is done. Consider pre-heating the glass just a little - 30C is good with a hair dryer if the glue stick isn't enough. Clamp the glass to the bed with large "paper clips". The kind that can clamp 80 pages of paper.

By the way - if it is a slicing issue, try the "fix horrible" settings. There's 11 combinations but usually "A" is the one you want.

1) um1 or um2? 2) This looks like it could be a slicing issue. Did you look at it carefully in cura layer view? If you didn't use cura try repetier host (it's free) to view the gcode. Remember that in cura layer view the blue lines are non-extruding lines. Look at the bad areas carefully in cura. Maybe post your gcode - upload it somewhere and post a link to it - and I'll look at it with repetier host. I've seen underextrusion when you go from slow to fast but not this much! This is excessive.

In this case probably more temperature (see post #17). Can you go lower temp for the pet? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=25304

That vibration pattern is called "ringing" by most people. You can get rid of it by reducing acceleration and your prints don't slow down as much as you might think: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2532-prevent-ringing-wobbly-surface-after-sharp-corners/?p=18006

Yes. But I set these to 0 for almost everything I print. With most PLA filaments (and ABS is better) you can often get a "zero clean up" print with zero stringing. But this is *not* easy. It takes experimenting and some filaments string no matter what you do. In general I print very cold (maybe 190C depending on the brand and color filament) and very slow (20mm/sec). Some prints are meant to be beautiful. Some prints are meant to be functional. Some prints have no "holes" to jump over *and* are meant to be beautiful. So I do different printer settings for different prints. Here is an experiment I did with stringing: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

Also in Cura create a new machine and select as shown with "dot" (circled):

By the way, do you know how to set the max velocities for all 4 axes? If you have an ulticontroller you can do it from that but don't forget to save the values (or they will get lost next time you power cycle). Also some versions of Marlin have a bug where some of these settings don't work until you power cycle anyway. If you don't have an ulticontroller, you can do this with pronterface (free download) and using M commands e.g. M500: great reference: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code scroll way down to the gcodes on this page: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/

The F command in a G0 or G1 move sets the "feedrate" or mm/sec for all 4 axes. Once you set the feedrate it should stay that value for all future moves. It's best to control the max speed seperately with the marlin firmware. You can set the max velocity for Z and E independent of X,Y. So if you ask for a feedrate of 300mm/sec and leave it there, and then move Z axis or move E axis, Marlin will only move at the max velocity for that axis and not 300mm/sec. If you move 3 axes at the same time, the speed will be determined by the distance and max speed for each axis.

Make sure they are *smaller* than .4mm, lol! you want 28G (28 gauge) or smaller (29G, 30G are good): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_gauge_comparison_chart I don't recommend going smaller than 30G as they just get more and more delicate. So stick with 28G,29G or 30G.

1) 180C is quite cold. try 220C. 2) Can you show the other side of the tardis? I'm confused as to what the problem is. But are you printing in mid-air maybe?

I agree. You do not need to change speed. You are already using glue. Your ONLY problem related to curling now is that you are printing too high off the bed. Two of us have mentioned this now. Leveling properly is really really important. The PLA should be SQUISHED into the glass somewhat.

In expert settings, set the two retraction values to 0. ESPECIALLY minimal extrusion. If you have this as low as 1mm, it still takes about 200mm of horizontal printing (at .1mm layers) before it has moved enough to retract. Just set these both to 0mm and you will be safer. edit: arrg. edited this 5 times. It's about 200mm. Math: 2.85 diameter versus .4mm diameter nozzle means 1mm extrusion of filament is (2.85/.4)^2 or 50X as much or 50mm of .4mm diameter extrusion. 50mm extrusion of .4mm at .1mm layer height should be about 50 / 0.1 (layer height) gvies you 500 dots of extrusion times about .4mm length of each dot gives you about 200mm extrusion.

@GBR1 - you have under-extrusion on your bottom most layer almost certainly due to your Z height. You have the lowest layer set to .3mm so it is trying to exude .3mm worth of filament when z=.3. When you levelled, if you used a piece of paper then your z=0 is probably actually: nozzle .1mm above the bed. Instead of z=0 means touching the bed. You can fix this by leveling a little closer (nozzle closer to bed), or by increasing flow by 33% for the first layer. This is important not just for the look but also to get good adhesion so your part doesn't get knocked off too easily or so your part doesn't warp so much when the PLA shrinks (for larger parts).

@aad - This is a hardware issue. I recommend talking to customer support. They will have you remove your larger cover under your UM2 and then re-route the 2 gray flat ribbon cables. Even just removing the cover may be enough - but talk to (or email) UM Support. You did use SD card, right? USB not officially supported because it is flakey.

I doubt there are buffer problems. you have me very confused. Initially I thought the printer was still moving around on the first layer but no plastic coming out (clogged nozzle, cold nozzle, or extruder ground up the filament) but now it sounds like maybe it just skips over part of the printing and jumps to the next layer before it finishes? Which is it?

Yes. That's it. Chamber at 50C. Can steppers handle this? Maybe. But only the steppers go outside - the belts stay where they are. I have not done this but others have and it's quick and easy.

champion - what country are you in - please update your profile. If it was me, and in USA, I would just order an arduino - $20 on ebay delivered rather than have one shipped from netherlands. UM Support is great and will likely ship you a free part - contact by phone (english) or email. They work roughly 9am to 5pm Mon-Fri Netherlands time. >but still says device malfunctioned and did not start. I think I got that error once but it still worked - I forget. I definitely got that error once but I forget what happened after. In device manager if you see a COM port then note the value e.g. COM3, COM12, etc. Then run Cura and specify that com port in the cura settings. Try to re-install the firmware (make sure it is UM Original and not UM2).

I'm still a novice. Before the UM2 came out, experts recommend 70C and that is what I used with UM1. My understanding is if you only care about sticking - 60C is plenty. But if you have curling at the edges - this is a warping effect due to shrinkage, then you need to add "brim" feature in Cura and also 70C is better. The "glass" temperature for PLA is around 55-65C (depending on color and brand of PLA): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polylactic_acid#Chemical_and_physical_properties and if you can keep the bottom 5mm of your part above 65C then you won't get much lifting because it is too soft to pull up. I think this is why the new Cura keeps the fan off for much more than 1 layer now. Just make sure the bed cools to 50C before removing your part.

Usually it's better to push them through than to take the bowden off. Each time you take the bowden off you are in danger of scraping/damaging it with the thin metal blades that hold it in place.

Having the motors stick out the sides of the UM makes for more things to bump into and your motors mean you have to position the UM farther away from any walls and it's uglier. And the short belts work fine for me. If you transport your UM often you will be glad the motors are out of the way. However I've been thinking of moving mine to the outside (but still using the belts). It requires no extra hardware, no holes drilled, just swap the X,Y direction bits in software (or in hardware jumpers).

Photo please.