gr5

This happens a lot on both UM1 and UM2 when printing through USB. Did you get the ulticontroller I hope? If not the solutions are to vary the USB in some way. For example try a different computer (laptops seem to be more stable for some people plus they have built in battery if you lose power) or buy a $10 USB hub which amplifies the signal or route the USB cable differently or try a better USB cable. But if you can print through the ulticontroller, this kind of thing doesn't happen. I have successfully continued "failed" prints but it's a bit of work - you basically remove the gcode up to the spot where it left off. Plus leave in the homing code and you have to do a trick to get the extruder not to suddenly extrude a meter of filament because it thinks it's one meter into the gcode. But it's not too hard to do. The trickier part is figuring out exactly where it ended up (stopped).

Why do you have to wait for the build plate to cool? If it is a failed print then you don't have to worry about damaging the print and you can just scrape it up with a putty knife while still hot. And if it's a "good" print you only have to let the build plate cool to 85C or so before carefully prying it up.

Before you claim it's the z scar please back that up with evidence. Look at the finished printed part and at the same time look at it in Cura in layer view and locate where the z axis moves up a layer. Actually it's MUCH easier to see in repetier host. If you install repetier host (it's free) and then simply run it and drag and drop the gcode onto RH you can them pan, zoom, rotate around the part and see where the z movements occur.

I think it's the power cycle bug. If not then you are using "bang bang" heating instead of PWM/PID heating. I know that is an option for the heated bed but I don't think that's even an option for the nozzle heater.

Depends how hot and how big the part is and how solid but usually it would be "ruined". If for example it was under a paper back book it would be ruined. Even just sitting on the dash board or on top of the seat - even if it was a simple cube it would likely get ruined. Something like this would probably be fine: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74322

Oh! I meant people who printed taulman on the UM1. They are pretty similar as far as the extruder and the bowden are concerned. I think the bowden tubes are the exact same tubes (why would they be different?).

Better that they spend their time getting all the UM2's built and shipped than replying to tickets about "where's my UM?". Right?

Under your UM, on the electronics board, you will see 4 smaller boards. One for each of the 4 axes (plus a socket for a spare extruder if you do dual extrusion). These are sometimes called "stepper drivers" or "pololus". There is a small potentiometer on there that you can rotate. It sounds like you might need to increase the current a tiny bit. If you turn it too much your stepper will gradually get very hot. http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Electronics_build_guide#Tuning_the_stepper_motor_drivers You could instead swap two stepper drivers and see if the problem moves. If it does you can write a ticket and they will probably ship you a new one for free on Monday. If you choose to remove a stepper driver, it is easy but do it very slowly and carefully. Don't rush. Use something like a screwdriver to pry up one side part way. Then switch to the second side. Then go back to the first side. Go slow. It should take 2 or 3 prying tries. If you go too fast you will bend the pins.

Regarding the bumps. I had some bumps and got rid of them by changing speed. This is on UM1 (post #12): http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/?p=24010

Several people have printed with some of the taulman nylons. I've printed PA6 with no problems. With the taulman I think you have to print extra slow because I think it tends to stick a bit in the tube. So I think 20mm/sec is recommended. The diameter has not been a problem as far as I can tell. Why don't you do the work and search these forums. Someone definitely posted here or over on the ultimaker google group.

At the glass temperature. For PLA this is 50 to 60C. This is water that is hot but cool enough to put your fingers into. For ABS around 105C. This is a little *above* boiling! So there is a huge difference. But even when PLA is above 60C it doesn't exactly melt. It's just that if you pick it up it will slowly form to the shape of your fingers. So PLA at 70C sitting on your print bed will be fine - it won't melt - it will stay in it's proper shape. But if you try to pry it off the bed before it cools to 50C it will deform. Try putting a piece of PLA filament into hot water that you microwaved. Hold it in there for 20 seconds and then pull it out and bend it. This is very informative and will be a useful lesson. It was for me! There is no substitute for actually *feeling* what happens to PLA. The transition is rather sudden. Yet the melt temp is closer to 180C!

You won't have a problem with temperature issues for that part as that doesn't get hot. I would just take some of the extra plywood and cut a piece to the right shape and drill a hole in it. Actually I would drill the hole first. Also you can print up entire blocks. Go to thingiverse.com and search for "ultimaker banana block" to see two nice designs.

Picture please. Usually you *want* it to go faster when it isn't extruding. That's the "travel speed" which you can change but usually works best at 150mm/sec minimum. 200 to 300 works even better and tends to leave less blobs. Instead you probably want to enable retraction. There are 6 retraction settings in the 3 different settings menus. Make sure it is checked and in the "expert settings" section change both distances to 0 mm. Without retraction you get what we call "stringing". Strings that connect parts that weren't meant to be connected. You also often get blobs at the start and/or end of the strings. Or maybe you aren't talking about stringing at all! Please post a picture.

What exactly is it hitting? 1) The side plastic panel? 2) The side aluminum (dibond) panel? 3) The rear metal stepper cover? If #3 then you might need to raise your fans by 1mm or so. Maybe you could take a photo with the machine off at the position where the head hits the "side of the case". The 2 side fans should be symmetrical - same height and same distance sideways. The folded metal part that holds the side fans has been a problem for the early UM2's and yours might not be bent properly (not the right shape). Or your fans might be loose - not only has the metal been in the wrong shape, the screws that hold the fans on keep getting loose and sometimes fall out. Some people have added a rubber band to hold it together better (so it is quieter). UM is experimenting with different types of screws and rivets.

The ultimaker robot was sliced probably years ago. I dont' think it was even sliced with Cura. It was sliced for the UM original and contains gcodes that explicitly move the head away at the end. The new way of slicing skips the codes to set temperatures and also skips some of the startup/end gcode and the UM2 does this automatically by itself. Somehow the UM2 looks over the gcode and decides if it is "old style" or "new style". If "old style" it just follows the gcode blindly. If "new style" it homes, warms up bed and nozzle, and at the end retracts the bed.

Why is rear left corner the worst? I think it has something to do with the 3rd fan - the rear fan. And the nozzle placement. The nozzle isn't centered in the print head. Also maybe something to do with being far from the center of the print bed where things are warmer.

Most people print ABS with the bed at 110C. The glass temperature is around 105C so if you go over that then the material is still relatively solid but you can bend it - it is soft. Soft enough that it won't lift off the bed. Make sure the bed is below 90C before removing your part!! Similarly the glass temp for PLA is around 50C to 60C depending on additives. It's fun to take a thin sheet of PLA or ABS - the dimensions of a thin coin. And place it on the bed and set the bed to just below or above the glass temp and you can let it heat up for 5 minutes and then try to quickly pick it up and bend it or use pliers. I made 20 of these "coins" and I should leave them on the bed and then I can let it cool 1C at a time and try to find the glass transition.

Not too many people with replicators on this forum . Well I seem to remember that the rep has it's own compressed gcode format. I think you need to compress the gcode that comes out of cura to the compressed format (is the compressed format called x3g). There are some free compressors out there to compress to x3g. Maybe this has nothing to do with your problems - I don't know. I would ask google. Or ask around to other people who got this working. Maybe ask in a makerbot forum? I hear they moderate their forums heavily and might block things like this but it seems like using open source cura should be okay with them.

That make sense if there is a loose wire. When the bed moves down the wires flex a little and so something is probably loose where it connects to the heated bed in the back. I haven't taken apart my heated bed yet and I haven't seen any photos of anyone else doing it either but most things on the UM are easy to take apart and examine. I guess you should contact support like it says on the screen. They will be available Monday but of course they will have a whole weekend worth of tickets to deal with. If it were me I would just start taking it apart (the bed). There should be 4 wires in the back somewhere - two thick ones to supply the heat, and 2 thin ones for the temp sensor. It's the temp sensor. Be aware that when power is off you can just turn that long vertical screw by hand in the back and your bed will go up or down. You will get grease on your fingers but you can wash that off.

The other thing is your arduino may have been damaged. This is a very inexpensive and not difficult part to replace. If you are in USA I would spend $20 (includes shipping) and get one through ebay. Don't get one that ships from china though.

That sucks. It's hard to believe this could be caused by unplugging it. I would try turning it off, unplugging the power supply for a LOOONG time until that blue LED goes out. Might be 20 minutes. Then plugging it in and *then* turning it on. There are weird fail safe circuitry in power supplies sometimes. If it still gives the error than it is almost certainly a loose wire between the printer bed and the circuit board. The main circuit board is under the larger cover. You only have to remove 2 screws. Most of the connections are pretty well labeled. Test the wires and connectors for print bed temp sensor on both ends (under the UM and where it goes into the bed). I think someone had a loose wire related to the heated bed on their new UM2 recently. Also consider calling support on Monday. Or emailing them.

That recent? I thought it was more than a year old.

when you start pronterface it queries the UM for the PID values. Check those values to make sure they agree with what you set them to (after a power cycle).

This should turn it off when you ask for high temp. So yes, I agree, the PID values aren't doing anything.

Side view looks good - it isn't extremely underextruded but you can get 30% underextrusion and still have the sides look that good. I'm still going to go with "raise the temp to 220C or so". You might get better adhesion between the layers also (i.e. stronger part).