gr5

What? The fan on the electronics board caused ... what? Caused the platform to wiggle? What was the solution? I hope you didn't just unplug it!

It's very common to get a clicking sound related to the belts riding up the pulleys slightly and slapping back down. It is very difficult to see but easy to fix - you loosen the tiny screw in the pulley and then line the pulley up with the belt better: slide the print head close to that pulley so the black plastic block gets close - then you can see where to line it up). Basically straight over/under the metal rod.

I meant "Marlin". I fixed the post. Thanks for pointing that out. Yes, you are right - you definitely were successful in changing the acceleration.

The next time you turn it on, set it for 95C and wait until hit its there but while waiting put some water on the print head and make sure it doesn't quite boil. If it does, and the UM is reporting say 80C or 50C or 20C or 0C, then shut it off before you melt your peek part.

It could be the arduino also. Someone had a problem with their arduino that was causing one of the axes to only go one way. He probed the arduino pin and saw that it was the arduino at fault. His situation was different though in that it was very consistent and didn't require "warming up" before it started doing it.

It would only cause it to stop moving in one of the directions (towards the limit switch that is falsely triggering).

1) Where did you get the UM2 schematic? 2) Good detective work on the DIGIPOTSS_PIN define. Do you think this is a bug? Do you think I could mess with this and rebuild UM2 Marlin?

If you are printing something that you want to look nice - such as artwork - such as yoda, it's best not to have a different speed for the infill. This can cause over extrusion at the speed change when you switch to the "skin". Also it's best to print slower if you want it to be pretty. Consider 20mm/sec if you aren't in a rush and want it to look very good.

I think illuminarti's question was because he was wondering if there was a bug in Cura. When you change things on a layer, it can change areas that *should* not have changed. So you didn't really answer his question. Seeing inside doesn't help as we can't see the upper piece. Better to see it in "layer view" in cura.

I still can't see the photo :(

By the way you can turn on the side fans without printing - just wait till nozzle is < 200C, then choose "print" then while it is warming up the nozzle, choose "TUNE" and then it will not start printing as long as you stay in the tune menu. In the tune menu you can put the fans at 100%. When done experimenting kill the power so it doesn't start printing.

There are 2 problems, yes. My side fans were fine but a few people's side fans arrived with loose or missing nuts/bolts. Tighten all 4 of them and if there is a screw without a nut, rescue it before it gets lost. The other sound could be a belt riding up the side of a pulley but much more likely - it is the extruder losing steps. Look at the extruder on the back of your UM when you hear the click does it rotate backwards? If so you are printing too cold (or too fast). Here is a table of how fast you can print with the UM2 and with the blue pla that comes with um2 and with various temperatures: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3418-um2-extrusion-rates/ I'm pretty sure you are going WAY over those limits. Just raise the temp based on your printing speed. e.g. at 100mm/sec with .2mm layers you need to be at least 230C.

Actually if you want it to deform with gentle squeezes then you need flexible pla. Here is a video explaining how to print on a UM as it is difficult due to it easily getting stuck (it's rubbery) in the bowden tube: Skip to 0:50 in the video.

Nylon would be good also. e.g. google "taulman nylon filament 3mm".

There's nylon also. I plan to try some tomorrow if I can get to it...

Something's wrong with "theeasypc.co.uk". Can only load a tiny piece of that photo. Please go to "gallery" (top left corner of this page). Then upload your picture there. Then start a new post and click "my media" next to the smiley face and insert your upload picture into a post. I refreshed this page 9 times. I loaded a debugger. I just can't get the photo to load more than a little bit. It's still transferring now as I wrote this but nothing is happening.

>Precisely in time Precisely in time. In other words if you send a gcode to change the acceleration (or do it from the front panel) it seems to happen about 10 line segments *after* that gcode because Marlin has already planned 10 line segments in advance. I don't know if it's exactly 10 or if it's 20 or what. But I would guess between 10 and 30 from my experience with how long it takes to speed up or slow down when you mess with the feed rate. It's the same amount of delay. Edit: changed "cura" to "Marlin". I meant Marlin.

Finally when things are dialed in print a real big version! It will probably take 10 hours but it will be worth it!

Printing 2 at once will help with the top but you may get stringing. But to print 2 make sure you set your "gantry height" in machine settings to 0. Verify that it isn't printing one at a time in slice view. To reduce stringing keep things cool and print possibly even slower. For example 190C at 30mm/sec is about right with this blue PLA filament on the UM2. You might also want to turn off the heated bed and use the blue tape on cold glass. You might have to relevel with the blue tape adding a small thickness. But try without leveling first as the UM2 tends to just have it's extruder motor do some "clicking" if the head is too close. No big deal.

First make sure nozzle is not super hot - must be below 200C or so (you'll see why in a second). Then choose "Print", then choose anything to print. At this point it heats the nozzle and waits. Then go to "TUNE" Once you are in tune it will not print until you exit so you can take your time. Go to fan setting and turn to 100%. When done testing fans, hit the power switch (otherwise it will start homing and printing).

Strange! Mine is the other way! https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos?pid=5945427785042169890&oid=116840894901841820072

There should be one missing - the one for the second extruder which I assume you don't have.

Printing from USB is possible but unsupported and not recommended. USB is flaky and if you print a 5 hour print and it fails half way through you will not be happy. However by all means go for it - hopefully someone else will actually be able to answer your question. I think this question was answered on these forums in the last 2 day or so - probably by Daid.

1) Does the green light come on and stay on when you power the UM? 2) Does the fan underneath the UM come on? 3) Do you have a volt meter? Check the voltages at IC1 - remove the fan and cover - it is in the corner near fan and gets the most air from the fan and should be lifted into the air path. It converts 19V to 12V. It has 3 pins. One is at 19V, one at ground, the other at 12V. Don't leave UM powered up without the cover and fan for more than 20 seconds at a time as this particular part will get very hot. 4) If everything working so far, consider removing the Arduino and plugging it in separately through USB. The USB cable powers it up. If you remove it TAKE YOUR TIME - be careful not to bend any pins - pry on one side, then the other, then repeat gradually. Arduino's are very inexpensive and available everywhere. UM will send you a new board or new Arduino or new power supply once you diagnose this or you can just fix stuff yourself.

Strange. Okay so when you measured 5V at the pink/blue was that with no connector connected? I don't even know if these are supposed to be 5V or 12V fans. I don't think the schematic has been posted online yet. I think it will get posted 6 months from the shipment of first UM2. If I were you I would download pronterface (it's free and simple). Connect a USB cable to the um2 and connect to it with pronterface. Then issue this command to turn on the side fans fully: M106 S255 (255 is full 127 is 50% and so on). M107 turns fans off. Make sure the side fans come on, if so, disconnect one and plug in the rear fan. This will test the fans for sure. You can also measure the voltage to see if it is 5V or 12V for the working fans (although they are in series so maybe it will be 6V? I don't know how it's supposed to work!). edit OH! You can turn the fans on with the maintenance menu! I forgot. So you don't need pronterface.