3dcase

I will share it on Youmagine when it fits (like to try first myself :shock: )

Hi, update on the printhead :(. Ordered myself a roll of PLA90 in Germany. The ABS stuck that good on the glue and glass... Higher up in the print I have cracks of the internal stresses I guess.

Hi, Printing on glass with a gluestick... The ABS sticks on the glass very well!! But next problem is the stress, up higher in the print. Still might need a heated bed to solve that :(.

I think it's a Beautiful brim!!

thanks for the answers, I will order some of that pla90. For now I 'stick' with the abs and gluestick on glass thing, added some extra supports ( to be cut off) For now it holds :ugeek:

found a gluestick video from dec 2012.

Hi there Helsinki, welcome. woohw, not much response on your question yet... I hope you have a pretty good experienced printer operator in the library. First of all... if you designed it yourself it's a super model!!! But to complex to print I Guess, a lot of details will get lost in the process. Might be good to download a slicer yourself, like Cura, and see before hand on the monitor wich details get lost. And where you have to add some supports (to keep the hands up while printing) Could save you a few hours of rented printertime. If you have a 3d model i'd like to give it try for my own use ( won't sell it ) Would be a nice challenge to try my new PVA support material.

Hi there, scanning the posts back to 2012, still not convinced what to order.. Made myself a new printhead to get my dualextruder working, works and looks great, for a while. But the points hitting the aluminium plate get soft. I'm looking for a material printable without a heated bed, but with a higher glass transition temp. than the standard PLA, any 2013 ideas? Read about PLA90, pet, nylon. will one of those stick on a cold bed?

Sorry, No stupid question, here comes a stupid answer..... I was weaning too fast :(. Ordered a roll of PVA last Friday, I let you know when I tried for real....

grrrrrrr.... okeehj 5 . I keep trying...! working by the book, brings nothing new..

Ai..... that's a shame. Until now thought that PVA was THE support material. Hoped I had a second life for my dual extruder kit. As you read this thread, one might conclude that printing PVA is even a bigger hassle than try working with 2 colours? :shock:

Woehaahh, Have to show that picture to my wife, next time she calls me a printer junky :-P.

Hi Augusto, Thanks . It's Flex Pla directly on glass, cleaned with some kind of solvent (smells like thinner). The first one warped a little, so I used a Brim. Bottom layer, printed at 225° with 15mm/sec bottom speed, 0.1 layer and 110% flow to get a flat solid first layer. Still like to know who came up with this idea? Should be nominated for some prize or reward :-P

Just wondering... Spending a lot of time, filtering the right info for yourself as a reader. Is it time for a separate UM2 Thread/Forum, with all the UM2's flying all over the world this week? Guess they will have some different tips/tricks (no problems :-P ) than our old printers.

Hi Ian, when there is or comes a heated bed upgrade or kit, I order one. but for now I had to try the gluestick. And my daughters Prittstick from Henkel, is easy to remove with a knife. or some water.

Hi Andi Ein wenig Öl macht wunder, für eine Weile. :cool:

Ai.... should have made a B/W picture.. Infected by the Black Pla from an earlier print :???:. If you like I, could run it trough Photoshop, but ain't gonna make a new one!! :-P

Nobel Prize shortlist!!....... I think we have to put the guy/girl who came up with the glass plate idea, on the Nobel prize shortlist for 2014! as well as the one who came up with the idea of using a 50ct glue stick on that same glass plate!!! Best update/upgrade ever. Yesterday I was surprized by the effect of printing FlexPla directly on the glass. Today I finished a ABS Fanduct with only a little bit, 0.5mm warping, will warp back if I bolt the fan on it. Without a Heated Bed.... First one directly on the glass was a disaster... But then I stole my daughter's 50ct Glue stick. Put it on the glas plate and woohw.... It worked :eek: Not a nice print.. stringing and oozing, but I don't care, it's functional... . All Credits to the Glue on Glass Guy....

Plastic2print? Cheap, fast delivery, good service, nice guy.....

@LePaul, have you actually tried one of the cone like clamps yet? (can't find it in your posts). Using it for almost a year now and it's one reason less to throw prints in the trash. And a lot easier to get the bowden tube out again, you don't end up with a to short tube (because of cutting the ends clean again to give it another try) And as said somewhere above, it's almost impossible to turn the nut to tight and cause more friction. @MatEngi, considered to give it a try with a FlexPla cone? Next Flex Pla run I will try some soft cones, should give more friction I guess.....

Woohw... Count me in as believer.... Flex PLA on a piece of glass.. I'm convinced. :shock:

same problems here....:(. Any tips and tricks on storing PLA? New rolls are obvious, but what with the opened ones? For welding rods I used an old refrigerator, with a timer for the light bulb, to keep them dry.. Would that help? (If the moisture is the problem?)

Hi sander, I use a 0.2 nozzle sometimes for small modeltrain parts, works well, gives you more detail. But have to print slow, gives a higher pressure in your tube, to force it trough the hole. will a bigger nozzle help you in speeding up the printing? I wonder, will the heater be big enough to heat up the bigger flow? More variation in nozzle diameters would be a good thing for in the ultimaker shop, can't remember where I got the 0.2mm nozzle, it fits but is higher. So you have to adjust the endstop. Would be nice to have a range with the same outer dimensions.

eindelijk... een NL gedeelte waar je gewone praat praten kan

In my case the hotend clogging gives more problems is the older hotend, the new one that came with the dual set is better (but almost new). I think, in the old one the brass tube and for sure the white Teflon thing are worn out, and do not guide the filament anymore. For the towers, you can switch colour in the tower(s) as well. In this Youmagine thing I used TweakAtZ plugin en and angled cut in the tower to prime the 2nd hotend. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/tin-tin-rocket-dual