3dcase

Glad everybody is happy with the result!! :-P But I like to make an off topic comment on the above mentioned and printed banana tensioners. I use them myself, but at night when I can't get to sleep, I dream about a better tensioner. These tensioners have the bad habit to lift the belt, so its out offline, I mean the beltparts are not parallel anymore. Therfore while moving, the tension changes. Perhaps the tension equals itself left and right, but than the corresponding 6mm shaft has to disalign itself. In my (humble) opinion, you need two parallel parts. so a tensioner almost as the original one, but than with a banana like construction in the centre ( where now that little wooden tensioner is) To be adjusted separate from the 6mm shaft clamp. Making any sense? what's your opinion?

Pssst Hern 'tweakAtZengineer' Aka Dim3ensioneer... I have a request, you as a Plugin man, is it possible to make a graduate speedchange in de tweakAtZ plugin? Changing temperatures with the plugin takes some time, so has a 'rampe' up and down, takes a few layers to heat up or cool down. It would be nice if changing feedrate would work graduate aswell. Slowing down and lowering the temp, is not that bed. But speeding up and higher temperature is tricky. Would be nice if you could spread the speedincrease over a few layers so it corresponds better with the temperature. Not a software guy, so don't know how to do it myself.. but the result could be the same as the way cura increases the fan speed. For now I use the workaround to make more changes, but it would be nice to have it automated. Do you think it's possible? Regards Kees

Would be nice to know what all the excitement is about... :-P Everybody complimenting each other is hilarious to read. But almost without any pictures It feels like being the only one drinking soda in the bar :???:. Some more pictures or files would be welcome, to figure out what's going on here...

testing

The Flow depends on the temperature as well. perhaps you are printing with a high temperature? Measured temp can be 20° off between printers. You could measure/check your filament diameter as well. 2.8 or 2.9mm makes a aprox 7% difference.

@Daid, Morning.. When planning to make some changes to the support. Please take a look at the support distance settings. Perhaps I think the other way around as You do. But decreasing the distance between support and mainpart, should (imho) result in more support. Since V13.10 I have to use a higher distance to get it closer to the part. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3472-cura-1311-support-lost-direction/ Regards Kees

Nice Project!!! Received 'My' stone today:) Living around the corner, I think I will do the delivery by Bike, would be nice to see something of this big operation . If you can use a 'physical' helping hand or last minute 'emergency' printing time let me know. Groeten Kees

Don't have a Mac myself, I thought it was discussed in that other post. You might better reply in that other post as well, could trigger other mac users.

http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3746-no-plugins-appear-in-the-enabled-plugins-box/

An addition on Priming.... I usually try ( sometimes I forget) to prime every time a print starts. Specially with repetitive smaller parts you better change the standard start- and endcode. Might miss something, but how I read the code, I see in the end code a retraction of 6mm. Startcode says that's A total of 0,0mm, so every time you start a new print you are 6 mm short of filament. Very Roughly 300mm printinglength? Exact mathematics are for Gr5 or illuminarti So I try to remember to turn the extruder by hand before the print starts.

't zelfde en veel mooie prints...

I'm still looking for a volunteer to build a separate second flow adjustment function in the Ulticontroller, for the dual extruder. Anyone ?

Surprise.. Perhaps it was always there and I have never seen it. But In my ulticontroller while printing, in the tune menu there is an option, Change Filament, Push the button, retracts filament, ulticontorller starts beeping, change your filament, prime a little bit, pudh the button again and off you Go!!!. Perhaps I totally missed it before, but I suspect the option was a free christmas gift, came with the marlin update with version 13.12. Anyway, Glad with it :-P

Gefeliciteerd jongens! Ga ik nog maar ff verder om mijn ouwe UM1 te pimpen :-P

Hoi Coen, I think and hope the officials are around the Christmas tree. :roll:. For a unofficial answer see this post; http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3818-cura-slicing-error/ If you are in a hurry, try version 13.10 PS.http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3654-nederlands/

Sorry, was hunting the turkey... http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3818-cura-slicing-error/

Hi Burki, You might want to read this post, it's concerning support as well. You could try version 13.10 for now.

OMG indeed a nice picture :wink: I don't see much wrong in your picture, perhaps the tiny spots you mention, I think you can solve that with more top layers. when you have a layer thickness of 0.1mm you can set Bottom/Top at 0.6, with less infill (Larger squares) you might need 10 toplayers. The hot air in the squares is expanding and wants to pop out, so you could also try more fan (cooling) . The toplayers might have underextrusion, so you could slow down. I rarely print faster than 50mm/s (some people like the speedrace on this forum :( ) Temperatures are hard to compare between machines, might be 20° off. So.. I don't see why you need bed levelling help. You are using a Raft, you cant get anything more level than that to put the first layer on... You could use the brim option, than you have a nicer first bottom layer. When you use 10brimlines you have more than enough time to level while printing. More toplayers, temperature from 205 to 215, speed from 60 to 50mm/s. should do the trick..... I think

I don't see any Health issues , give it a try and see what happens. Í have 5 versions installed at the moment, you might want to walk through the settings if you import settings from a gcode sliced in another version. And you miss some updates, but hard to tell what and which.

Hi, I remembered seeing something alike, do not know wich cura version Simon is using?. I see a part of a 2 in the screenshots, so I guess a newer version. Reading, Daid wants to see images and examples... This is what I found, printing a 1:160 model train. Notice the brim in the front part. 1st solid view 2nd An 'older' version 13.10 this is what Simon wants to see, and you might suspect.. 3rd Newest 13.12test. (13.11.2 gave same brim) Like Simon's screenprint.. All examples using same settings..

Heehj no Preview :sad: best wishes

Haha, Nice pictures, Great idea.. Careful with the beard and the timingbelts bitte...

Hi, for non moderators, non software engineers and non computer specialists ( like myself :shock: ). A 'how to save from github tutorial' may be useful. The above link can be saved with a right mouseclick. But the ones from github need to be saved as .txt files, underscores have to become dots. and .txt removed again so the extension becomes .py. Only when it looks something like this "TweakAtZ.3.0.1.py" it works.

Van Harte Cor!!!!!! Op naar de volgende.....