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3dcase

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Everything posted by 3dcase

  1. Looks like most dual extruders are dismantled? Not much happening here.. I'm still watching it print. Anyone wondered... Would it be better and cleaner if the printhead only did one layer at the time. Now it prints two layers per extruder. At 0.12 perlayer thats. 0.24mm difference. So the shoulder of the nozzle (the area without the hole) moves the other extruded material away? Before printing you've levelled the nozzle's with a piece of paper say, 0.1mm? The way I see now is: as long as you print 0.05 layers you'r fine. thicker layers would give a mess? I might be wrong..... More opinions welcome...
  2. eeuhm.... You could say... :shock: Metal printing evaluated into a ultimaker like FDM Printer? Filament, Bowden tube, hotend, isolators, steppermotors etc... almost exact copy's http://www.robots.com/images/welding%20robotics.jpg
  3. Hi there to, Indeed I use Glecerin/glycerol for the Soft Pla. I am no chemist, but as far as I can see, it did no harm to the print. Saw a video of guy making his own PLA with it. You need only a dropplet in the tube. So no harm done I guess.
  4. I'm using 13.11 but setting that value from 0.5mm to 0.0mm makes no difference, using 0.01 neither. As far as I can see, the 'problem' occurs with/while/after separated (I mean more spots per layer) infills
  5. Okeehj, did not notice that. so print screens take 2, both layer 55. I assumed that a 0.7 xy gap and 0.15 z gap would come up with bigger distance between main part and support. But as shown in the layerviews and total grams a setting of 0.2 xy and 0.10 z results in a bigger gap and more grams used for the print. I suppose there is a logic in it, but I have not found it yet... Edit... PS. note the empty brims in the 0.2xy 0.10z view. Have not printed it yet in 0.2xy and 0.10 z version, could until then be only a visual problem.
  6. Hi all, can somebody please point me in the right direction. Using Cura 13.11, and printing with support 'Touching Buildplate'. I want my support material a little closer to the main object, so when I reduce the x.y from 0.7 to 0.2. I suspect a bigger support area and closer to the object. Apparently Cura thinks the other way around :shock: . I'm trying to quit smoking and might think in the wrong direction :mrgreen: , so better check first before reporting a bug. Regards Kees
  7. I'm working in Cura 13.11, but i guess partly the same problem. Combing is enabled, retraction is set, min. extr, before retraction =0.0. Printhead moves while filling the four corners, the shortest way from one to the other corner, without retraction. That's a little lie, sometimes it retracts but have'nt found exactly when and why? See if I can upload the gcode somewhere. Renaming from .gcode to jpg was a to simply tric :( Edit.. http://3dcase.eu/Zooi/LampPart8.gcode
  8. Hi, I'm struggling with this retraction thing as well, pretty sure my 13.11 doesn't retract atl al blue lines, even the 50mm long ones and with more than 0.5mm feeded filament. But why? I don't know jet, still observing what happens. But on the picture of your fanshroud, It looks to me that 90% of the stringing is because of the steep overhang. I assume You've printed it with the fan mount facing down. So the inner wall perimeter is not touching the lower layer enough. The shrinking makes it even look worse. But some of the strings, for sure the ones crossing straight from one side to the other. are strange (Non)retraction things.
  9. Hi, Made myself these 2 40mm fanducts for my dualextruder (Standard Umltimaker) printed in ABS.. the PLA ones only lasted 10 seconds . Running around 30% gives enough flow. Better circulation around the print I guess,(Doing where they are made for) So 4 of your 25mm's are more than enough!... Guess you Might consider 1 on each side. I do like the idea off that UM2 kind of Heatshield (I guess it is) under the heating blocks. But when I'm printing dual colors it gets pretty messy sometimes :(. Don't know what the UM2 users have experienced until now?, but I'm afraid of piles of burned Pla in between that shield. Or it should be very easily removed.... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/40mm-fanducts-for-dual-extruder
  10. I don't see the enable combing checkbox in your settings, or is it gone when using a UM2?. That should follow the the oustside lines back, instead of crossing the internal of the vase. I'd like cura to retract at all blue lines when moving from one point to another, but I have not found a solution for that yet. To avoid stringing I stiil have a 13.04 version, Might not work for a UM2, but the downpoint is 13.04 gives a large Z-seem. (layershift on the same radial point). Following this topic for other input
  11. Hi, assuming you are using the latest cura version, and found the fill density settiing You could can give a wider shell thickness, but if the model is hollow, you can only make it solid in you cad program. Or take a look in the expert settings, and check a box at fix-horrible settings, might help, (Perhapssssss)...........
  12. haha... your the one guy who downloaded my tin tin rocket from youmagine? it's a nice one.! An ultimaker+ ? than I don't know. I find it pretty confusing already reading this forum with a UM2 around :shock:. Could be there's a limit in cura. Wait and See what others have to say..
  13. Hi, I tried loading your gcode in cura, but its to big indeed. would be a mess if cura would start printing. The stl file is to big as well. You could try to scale with the middle icon to the maximum size of your printer. But I would try a steady factor ( with this stl) of 0.5. would be a height of 143.2 mm in my cura. even less if you (with the settings of your Gcode) won't wait for 7 hours printtime. And (seen this cloud before I Think) check the size of the spaceshuttle you want to put on top
  14. Solved, motor connector had a wrong wiring....
  15. Hi there, while helpdesking a new Ultimaker user. One problem left. Extruder motor is running backwards. in cura printmenu. clicking on retract=extrude extrude is retract :shock:. It's a new kit. running cura 13.11 on usbcable. updated the firmware. it's pretty difficult to put the wiring wrong way round.. but it looks that way. any ideas? Oeps, checking the ultimaker or ultimaker2 checkbox first...
  16. Thanks... it worked.. right click on your last link and saved as, worked.. it's in the curaplugin tab now.
  17. Oh oohw, Like to use that updated tweak AtZ plug in. But how to download it, from github? :oops: Copied it pasted it renamed saved as a textfile, but won't show up in the cura plugin tab. Can't download it as a file?
  18. That's That's a nice next project, when the PLA90 does not work. I had in mind to build me something to mount the feeder on top of the printer on a kind of tripod (seen on thingiverse). To shorten the Bowden tube, for printing the soft pla, that's a PITA now with the long bended tube. Need to find a way to include your roof in that design. But first finish the dual extruder printhead, than I need to try that roll of PVA as support material.. and then.. and then... need to have some payed prints ... and then pffffffffff :-P
  19. kijk nou moet het goed komen :-P nog een Dutchman, zag ik terwijl ik zat te typen
  20. Het klinkt of ie al bewogen heeft, lijkt me of niet? De printkop volgt wel ongeveer het patroon wat je in cura ziet? Met die ringen dingen bedoel je waarschijnlijk de polies? daar kan zo heel veel niet aan verkeerd. Die polies zet je met de schroefjes vast, het enigste waar je op moet letten is dat de assen ( waar de printkop aan zit) recht zitten en dan op alle 4 assen de beide polies vastschroeven. Met recht zitten bedoel ik, netjes parallel aan een houten framerand, dat zou je kunnen meten. Wat je wel goed moet checken, of je alle eindschakelaars hoort klikken, voordat er iets mechanisch vastloopt. Ook de 2 van het platform, onderste en bovenste stand. In Cura zit onder het tabblad 'Expert, een first run wizard, als je dat doorloopt komt er ook iets langs om te checken of de eindschakelaars goed aangesloten zijn en werken. Dan zou ik eens kijken of je platform goed staat. Ik zu dat eerst met de hand doen. als je die lexan plaat op het platvorm schuift, moet je zorgen dat de 4 schroeven ongeveer een 2mm ingedraaid zijn. Zodat de 4 veren die kunststof plaat op zijn plek houden. Dan draai je met de hand de draadspindel tot je die boven schakelaar, Links aan de achterkant, hoort klikken. Dat is de hoogte waarop de 1e laag geprint wordt. Je moet dat zo af zien te stellen, dat je een stukje kopieer papier, tussen de nozzle en blauwe plakband kan schuiven. Scheelt die afstand veel, dan kun je de schakelaar iets verschuiven, het fijne afstellen doe je met de 4 schroeven. Als je die papier truc bij elke schroef doet, moet het goed komen. Als laatste kun je ff checken met de handbediening vanuit het cura printmenu. Die papiertruc moet je regelmatig doen, dat wil wel eens verlopen als ie warm of koud is. De invoer van je PLA. Ik neem weer maar aan dat je het tandwiel ziet draaien? Je kunt controleren of je veer strak genoeg staat, door te kijken of je kartels ziet op het stuk wat al ingevoerd is. Als je printkop verwarmd is (zet hem om te beginnen maar eens op 230°) dan moet je door met de hand te draaien een strraltje gesmolten pla uit de printkop zien komen. Ik hoop dat je er wat wijzer van wordt. tot lezens weer maar.
  21. Yes its ABS. next try will be the PLA90 when it arrives
  22. Dan houden we het hier toch gewoon op nl! :cool: Lukt het nu? hoever ben je, welke problemen heb je nog? heb je een ulticontroller of print je via usbkabel? welke cura versie. Die ventilator bv. begint vaak pas na een x. aantal lagen te draaien.
  23. Hoi Marlot, dat herken ik, gewoon willen vragen wat je weten wil, zonder je druk te hoeven maken over het engels :(. Wat mij betreft mag er best een apart subforum in het nederlands komen. Denk dat hier mensen genoeg zijn die je willen helpen in het nederlands hoor. Als je wil kun je ook een persoonlijk bericht sturen. Groeten en suc6 Kees
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