3dcase

Mine is running with a switch retraction of 12 mm, for me the 16 mm standard cura gave the same clogging.. Until now I'm using two separate walls or parts, one for each extruder, to keep it primed, and it helps cleaning the nozzle's. Or/and use a plugin to heatup the 2nd nozzle at a certain height, but even than you need a separate part for the 2nd to start printing and priming a couple of layers before your main part. But i'm in for other ideas!!

Nice car! Nice reconstruction! would you share it as step or stl file?

Hi Fabbers, Are you using dual extrusion? This cone clamp keeps my tube's in place now. But I had problems after a few layers, running dual extrusion, because the 16mm standard retraction was to much for one nozzle. Have to look in to it, but I think the none extruded filament cooled down in gap somewhere between the brass tube and the nozzle. Resulting in the Bowden tube pops out, or grinding in the feeder. Setting the dual switch retraction to 12mm solved that problem.

Hi, no heated bed expert all, but they seem to have a day off, so.... As an engineer i'd say, the rotation force for the motor should be no problem. But I think you might reinforce the wooden plate where the motor is mount on. And you want to make a separate bearing to take the (axial) load of the motor bearing(s).

@ ji11 Those are tiny little hatch clamps for a model ship........

Nothing fancy, weird, dual color or very special. Just something that helps paying the bills :-P. Could use more of those.....

I use a dual extruder setup, there's a diffenrence between the 2 hotends. say, printing white pla in extruder 1 I can go as low as 180°. but same rol in extruder 2 needs 205°. I don't care too much about the real temperatures, but like the readings to be the same. Need a lot of notes now, to remember what I did :(.

Thanks for the quick and detailed answer!! But euuhm, I'm more a toolbox guy, Glad with myself if I can find out how to work with the software :cool:. The writing and mod's I leave to you guys. In my last year in school we spend 1 hour a week looking with 20 guys on the green monitor of an early apple with only a tape deck. Blame the guy who put that antique in a dumpster... Afraid i'm to old to keep up with software development........ :(. I might give it a try with a resistor or potentiometer......... Regards Kees

sorry, mist your post earlier... Change the wiring would be enough I guess. Mounting of the hotends is the same as well, so you should be able to adjust the front one a little higher. While printing you need them at exactly at the same height. X/Y offset's can stay the same, when selecting the print in cura, remember that (standard) green coloured part is for hotend 1 and the red is for 2. I think youre printing area is about 20 mm smaller, be careful with that!! Hotend 2 hits your bed levelling screws in the back, countersink those anyhow to avoid damage. But the print will fall of the bed. you loose 20mm in the front of the machine.

Hi U2, After a few weeks of using my dual setup, don't see it as disappointing yet.... But for sure it's difficult and very time consuming. Up till now it's just a spare part kit :eek: . The printing is not my problem, it's more the stopping(Oozing). It's a dirty mess and takes a lot of cleaning of the part. THe printhead has to move fast, as low as possible temperatures, start over again when it's too low (underextrusion). Print extra walls too clean the nozzle. To keep the oozing as less as possible I use very low temperatures, 20° lower as with single printing, 110% flowrate to force it trough the nozzle. And I use the threated Bowden clamps with the cones to keep the tubes in place. Made myself an other printhead that's more robust and easier and more stable Height adjustment. ( will post some photo's tomorrow) The original one was a nice design for using the standard parts and the difficult named springwashers, but it was wobbling all over the place, because you could not tighten the screws. I'm hoping for some cura extra's. Like being able to choose which hotend to use. A single print using hotend 1 or 2 i.e. use a 0.4 nozzle in hotend 1 and 0.2 in hotend 2. Would be nice to have an extra to control the temperatures by Height (like AtZ plugin). youré in trouble now when you want to start the second color 100mm in the print But I keep trying!! Don't say we don't try!!! :roll:

hI, Posting the question here, don't now if it is a firmware, ulticontroller, cura or electronics question. Is it possible, somewhere, to calibrate the temperature readings of the hotends? Using dual extruders now and there is a 20°C difference between the hotends. same filament needs a 20° C higher temp on 1 or the other hotend. No life threatening situation, but would be nice if I could calibrate it. I know I could check or reinsert the heater and sensor, But don't want to try and get them out if there is another way. Regards Kees.

Switching the wiring should be enough, the hot ends are the same.

thanks, I better be careful

Hi, Troubleshooting.... Am I in trouble? I'm only a mechanical engineer, no electronics guy, so perhaps someone else can help me. Something weird here, just found out my printer can act as a generator aswell. No cables hooked up, moving a steppermotor lights up the ulticontroller display and thermo prints led's. Something wrong with the electronics, or/and can you damage them when moving the steppermotors by hand? Another thing is, is it possible and easy to come up with something to shut down the usb when the printer power switch is off? Led's are on and the electorinics fan keeps running (slowly). Another other thing- Is there a USB problem with my computer, or something in cura? In cura 13.04 i can run a print by the usb cable, but in later versions i can only control the printer but it willl not print. Regards Kees

welcome on this part of the forum, not to much happening here..... :( More input would be very welcome :-P .

Hi, Looks a lot like my last print, printed it without fan, due to a technical problem, because I stuck a screwdriver in it while levelling the platform :shock:. And indeed you need the ten layers of solid top infill to straighten the top. I do not hope it has something to do with the neat strong square infill, you might not have this problem (or less) with cura 13.04, doing a more open infill. Ever thought of soldering or welding a pressurized tube or steam pipe. :???:. But I hope it's the fan or a too high temp.

oeps.. edited.... I've changed the title afterwards..

Hi, Your a frequent poster and reader, I see. So when you've checked all your temps and feeder bla bla... I would give this part a try. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-bowden-clamp Not my own design! :shock: Just uploaded as a set to try and save some frustrations with other dual experimenters. Will work for a single extr. aswell

Hi, Those Federscheiben M6 should fit, 6.4 should fi over the hose.

Hi, that should be enough ( worked for me). You should see the 2nd temp reading on your ulticontroller at once.

http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/ I've just downloaded this one, newest version is from today, I'll give it a try when my printer is finished.

Morning Daid, "Reading the pixel colours" made me wonder after a night of sleep. I was running my screen on 16bits (trying to save memory), But switching to 32 bits solved the selecting problem!! Now I can move the parts around as long and much as I want, choose the extruders the way you explained above. But the layershift problem using TweakAtZ2 still occurs. Made some srceenprints to show. . Would be nice if you could look in to that (if you have the time). For speed and a clean print, it would help a lot if you can automate the temps and speeds printing dual. But for now I can do it manually. Regards Kees

reading "drawing the object twice" made me wonder, can this question have something to do with it as well? Don't want to put you on the wrong leg :cool: Drawing something on screen might be different from what's in the actual g-code? Might look messy on screen, But perhaps it works well in the printer? http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/2993-tweak-atz-plugin-cura-dual-extrusion-shifts/

tried with a win7 64bit system, and a vista system, tried it on both computers with a 13.06.4 and 13.07-support test2. But made no difference, to be sure I was clicking in the right places , looked up the cura manual but that's not available (yet) on the site. (nice to have the retractions options back :cool: in 13.07, cures the blobs on infill in thin wals, thanks..) If you can tell wich files, logs or info might help, i can try to mail them.

For one reason or the other, the cura selection procedure does not work with me, (or on my computers). when i left click a part, the merge option is gone from the right click menu. The only option for now is to see wahat cura wants, and then swap my filament and TweakAtZ settings :shock:. When I try to load multiple parts (as project planner) in 13.06. I can not select any of the parts aswell.?