3dcase

Hi, spend some time trying, seems to work now. thanks

I'm not in the modern things like UM2's, but because it stays grey, pretty sure it is to big for your platform settings. Try the "scale to fit" to button, and you see how much to big. Perhaps (Try careful!) when it's about a few mm's,try to set your platform values a little higher .

Hi, anyone found a TweakAtZ version that works with cura 13.11.2? Downloaded ver.3 but can not get it working...

Here it is https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dual-printhead

Hi, yep same problem here, but can't tell you what to do about it. In my case printing through USB cable works with an old version (13.04). But with the newer versions it will not print, other controls like Jog, temp and extrude work. For larger prints it's not a problem to copy them on the sd card and use the ulticontroller. But for smaller things the USB cable is more convenient I'm going to follow this topic, hope it attracts someone's attention who can come up with a solution.

Solved for now, back to I.E. 10. My biggest worry was loging in at autodesk to write STL-files, was impossible due to some script error. computers, woman and second hand cars.... pfffffffffff :angry: altijd hetzelfde gedonder... ( every time the same thunder )

Hi, It's a shame, yesterday my laptop decided to update Internet Explorer. Now I use version 11, but since, it is impossible to Quote or paste/insert links. More users with these symptoms? What to do about it, use other settings? Thanks, Kees

Hi Daid, a bug fixed, the same one as dicussed in this thread? #9 for an example . http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3453-problem-with-1310-cura-retraction/ Would be nice, see if I can find me an update.

please...... :roll:

pfffffffff......

Hi Anybody, posting this question in dual extruder gave no response, so I hope more people are reading his part of the forum. Looking for someone who has an idea, or is capable to change the firmware? I use the ulticontroller and a dual extruder setup. Is it possible for somebody, to make a sepparate Flow adjustment per nozzle? Now the one flow rate adjustment is supposed to work for the both extruders, so I like to have a an extra one for the 2nd extruder (like with the temp.). I know you can adjust it with the filament diameter, but would be handy if it worked on the Fly. Regards Kees

I hope Ian makes up his own mind. Might become a surprising building if he takes all our hints. :wink:

Hi Augusto. Don't worry, The one from that picture was not the first one, could have been the third. I have not tried a flexPLA phonecover since. Printing flexpla is a PITA. Printing directly on clean glass, only worked with flxpla until now. For normal PLA i still need the gluestick. Otherwise only the first 2 layers hold until the print starts warping, than it's sweeped of the bed. I checked and as far as i can see loading the profile again from the gcode. I used a Brim. bottom layer 230° 0.1mm 15mm/s other layers 225° and 25mm/s. shell and top/bottom 0.6mm 40% infill. With these settings my cura says, printtime 2h.53min. but i remember it taking 5 hours. so speed was even lower 60% ? The phone cover that came out the printer is easily torn apart (delamination). In my opinion the printingtemp is not set for the best adhasion between the layers. but my problem is the resistance in the bowden tube. You have to use a (perhaps too) high temp. to keep the pressure in the hotend as low as possible. Printing in the front of the machine helps, and a cool room with open windows helps aswell. Only print while freezing... I use Glucerine for lubrication, Aplied trough a hole just above the feeder.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:48646. But you can't use to much or it starts smoking and puffing all over the print. :wacko: I use the black flexpla from the ultimaker shop, no idea about the origine, they seem to be in love with formfutura. So might be formfutura. I measured and the diam. is 2.85, but i used 2.7 in cura, so that´s a flowdifference as well. 106% If I´m right. Even with that increase i might have turned up the ulticontroller to 120%flow. to squeeze the 1st layer on the glass. But as said before, have not tried it since, so might not work with me neither for a 2nd time. In my opinion the drag in the bowden tube is the worst factor. So this solution is high on my ´things to do´ list. should give a shorter and straighter tube. http://www.calumdouglas.ch/3d-printing/ultimaker-3d-printer/vertical-down-filament-feed/

Heuh? (that's dutch) Would like to help you, my guess is you don't need a mechanical engineer (like me), but a architect or something. If it was a quiz, i would go for CV = Central heating. Someone might need a piece of RC Table to put is overclocked Ultimaker on :cool: ?

Used Primetower and ooze shield together, looked good! Pretty clean on the bed. Even better after just breaking away the ooze shield, no further cleaning done.

Well, what I did is... I wanted a strong sturdy dual printhead, so I tried to combine the heat resistance of PLA90 with strong normal PLA. Thought the zigzag should help to bond the 2 better together, (That works ). Might be an idea for other material combinations as well.....

Heuh? OMG.... am I in trouble now:shock:. where did you read that? No one told me... the machine and the kit are paid fore, so mine I assume. :cool: And I obviously did not print it for the nice colour combination.. :mrgreen: Let's hope the NSA is still asleep..

Look what I found in the printer this morning! Might be, somebody tried it before in 3DPrinting, bit I thought it could give a lot of new possibilities. The printhead in standard Pla melted/softened near the aluminium. The ABS (on a cold bed) delaminated, used a to low temp. to prevent warping. The PLA90 held the temperature, but in my opinion not 'mechanically' strong enough. (softer and more flex than normal PLA). Now see what happens when this one is build in. Hope the Idea was a good one :shock: . Else it kept me of the street :cool:

Anybody, has an idea, or is capable to change the firmware? Is it possible for somebody, to make a sepparate Flow adjustment per nozzle? I know you can adjust it with the filament diameter, but would be handy if it worked on the Fly.

Aha, similar opinions I see. Z stage hangs, what I thought.... See the roll of Lead, between the lexan and the wooden logo plate. Not a scientific solution but it works :cool: For a couple of months already..

Haha....., Halve a million dollar Phone case empire!!! The other half was mine before I threw that dream out of the window :mrgreen: .

Oops, sorry, have a link, but you might want to check using normal drugstore thinner first.. http://www.bison.net/en/products/643-thinners/product/864-thinner-for-bison-kit/features/

You right, me wrong, daid.! Watched it print again, and indeed no extra gaps. Not sure about Round Robin, I'll try that one out when my dual support is up and running. My tilburgse Google came up with obesitas birds? But I guess you refer to the Algorithm or sequence scheduling... Ooze shield checked, and approved! Ooze shield works cleaner then the tower i guess, wipes from every direction.

I do not know if I am wright, tried to write it as question, because it's tricky. Let's say you print 2 towers. layers 0.1mm With single extruder; left layer 1, right layer 1, Right layer 2, left layer 2, left layer3 etc. etc etc. Normally, but for sure in this case, the (Theoretical) clearance is always the paper and layer thickness I started with. But now I make 2 towers extra, 4 in a row.. The movements at least in 13.11 are the same as for 1 extruder. So color 1 from left to right. Z down. layer 2 from right to left. Next comes colour 2, that has to drop 2 layers down? As far as I can see it. And for sure hits a little bit the other colour? As I said before, I give it another try tomorrow to be sure, might be wrong. But for now I think the clearance is 2 layerthickness(es) or none. It would be more precise if it printed one layer at a time, so finish one layer before stating another one.