ahoeben

The problem is, you did not improve the status quo, you replaced it by something else altogether. If you want to improve something that is already functional, it is almost never a good idea to throw out everything and start over. Here's a good read-up on that: http://www.joelonsoftware.com/articles/fog0000000069.html I'll continue posting issues and liking other members' issues as I have already done. This topic does not seem to be a particularly good place to list specific complaints on the new forum.

I may never have been as active a user as Titus, but I agree with him. The new forum looks like a classic attempt at fixing something that was not broken; Ultimaker had an active, functional community, and I am affraid you may have broken it in trying to make it somehow "better". This started by turning the community off for a week. For your loyal community members ("stamgasten") this is like closing down the pub where they hang out all day to meet their friends. And now you've reopened an uncomfortably remodeled boutique restaurant with a bar and kitchen that are not yet working quite right, after requiring all patrons to get a new id-card. I hope a lot of the fixes being suggested now will be implemented really really quickly before yhe forum looses most of its stamgasten that made the community so vibrant and functional.

@TheDeugd, a list of the latest active posts is something entirely different from a list of active posts since my last visit. You want us all to remember what replies we have already read? That's not what we have computers for. We need links to the first new comments since we last visited a thread for each thread, and preferably a "mark all threads read" functionality.

I'm not sure if you want the feedback to the new forum in one big collection topic, or separate issues in separate topics, but here goes. When scrolling through a long thread, the Ultimaker top bar popping over and disappearing every time you scroll up or down gets annoying real quick. It is also extremely large on say a wxga laptop screen, obfuscating a sizable chunk of the message body display.

Yeah, that's me . Looking forward to screwing my printer to the wall! cheers \ aldo

Bwa, external holder for the pen... Wouldn't it be a nice idea to use that spare hole in the head? You know, that set of holes that will not be used any time soon?

@rooiejoris, I don't know if you can edit the body text of the kickstarter page once it has launched, but I noticed it has a different price in the text for the XXL early bird option.

On my non-heated bed, I often fix a print with instable (thin, high) parts to the bed with a couple of blobs of PVA glue after a couple of layers. Works a treat.

Aww, just when I received my heated bed kit... Any reason why this would not work with a heated bed? Extension cables would be needed somewhere I guess.

Ooh, nice. I'm tempted to jump in and experiment, but I won't have time until april.

260C for bronzefill, are you sure? I print (and copperfill) at 205C-210C (which is much closer to what ColorFabb recommends)

With all the talk about tumblers for polishing here, you would almost forget about elbowgrease. These two were polished the oldfashioned way:

That was me, I guess. http://instagram.com/p/ps5UKQxYyz I filled in the hole in the head, and sanded out most of the lines. The material is very sandable. Most PLA/PHA colors from ColorFabb are less glossy than your average PLA. This seems to have changed about a year ago, because the sample-pack I ordered a long time ago has much more glossy filaments than the spools I ordered recently. The mask was printed with "recent" PLA/PHA. Especially when sanded, the print feels almost chalk-ish.

No teflon problems sofar, but I did take extra care not to leave the material in the heated hotend so heat can't creep up. It makes perfect sense that this could be a problem, because copper is more heat conductive than bronze (and certainly more conductive than pla).

The model (nicknamed "punthoofd") is my universal testbed model, designed to print fast. It is a spiralised print, and prints in 35-ish minutes on my UMO. I still have to get around to fixing the hole in the head (which is a fundamental issue with spiralising, not so much a printing problem).

Here's my first print with copperfill: Compared to bronzefill: In my (limited) experience it takes a bit more elbow-grease to get copperfill to shine, but when it shines, it is more reflective than bronzefill. The copperfill print seems to be slightly softer than the bronzefill one. Edit: Compared to the official photo above, the unpolished print looks a different for me. The color is - for a lack of a better description - a bit more belony (leverworst) color; more pink, less yellow.

Not true. Some fans blow

Found this application that optimises the placement of many parts to be printed simultaneously: https://github.com/RobotsWar/Plater Would be nice to have something similar in Cura, because it can be quite a challenge to place multiple objects that push eachother off the buildplate.

Just type 'pip list' in a terminal.

How about a heated bed kit upgrade party? Attendees could order a kit and you bring it to Utrecht...

The connectors are commonly refered to as JST connectors, but it may be tricky to find the correct ones. The bits that you crimp around the wires are called connector contacts. http://uk.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals?isRedirect=true

The weight is such a nice feature of the material. Once you are done polishing, you will also notice that the object will feel colder to the touch. Not as cold as if it were 100% bronze, but colder than normal pla prints.

Personally I get good results with steel pot scrubbers ("rvs pannenspons") and lots of elbow grease. Finer steelwool just desintegrates, but the pot-scrubber works for me. You get a slight silverish finish, because you are depositing a bit of the steel onto the object. When I am done scrubbing, I use Brasso metal-polish on a soft cloth. This serves to remove the silver-ish shine, and really brings out the bronze. Make sure you polish off as much of the Brasso as possible, because it will tarnish the bronze. Then again, the tarnished look helps making it look like bronze again...

Postprocessing prints: Support removal, sanding, polishing, smoothing. Chemicals, tumblers, etc.

It was good to hear some of the solid reasoning behind the colorfabb material choices. For some time now, I have been hoping for a PLA/ABS hybrid (combining low-shrinkage from PLA with smoothability from ABS) but now I know why it won't come from Colorfabb (styrenes are baaad). I'm looking forward to using more metal-fill filaments. Bronzefill really made me "fall in love" with my printer all over again. If I could suggest something to set Colorfabb apart from many (if not all) other filament producers, it would be a line of colored matte (non-glossy) filaments. High gloss accentuates surface imperfections, and hopefully a non-glossy surface would be sandable.