Nicolinux

Hi, and welcome to the forum. When does the bed not stop any more? When it goes up or when it goes down? When you first start a print, the bed tries to go down first. There it hits the limit switch - it does a kind of bounce movement, first triggering the limit switch and then going a bit up and down again. Then it waits for the nozzle to heat up. After that, it goes up and stops a few cm before the nozzle. There it waits until the nozzle starts extruding some filament and then the print starts and the bed goes all the way up to the nozzle. Where does it exactly fail? If it is the first - when it goes down, then most likely the mechanical limit switch at the bottom might be dislocated or the switch's arm bent so the screw underneath the bed does not touch it when it reaches the bottom. When it is at the top and the bed tries to go higher, then you might have flashed the wrong firmware. If you have an Ultimaker 2 and would flash the Ultimaker 2 Extended firmware, then the printer thinks it is taller, and would try to move the bed further up.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. The UM2 does not support 1.75mm filament. It is possible to mod it to work with this kind of filament but that's not something I'd advise - especially if you are starting with 3D printing.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Which model do you have exactly? The Ultimaker 2 Extended+ or "regular" Extended? If it is the +, then you'd have the so called Olsson Block and you need to follow this guide: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/18805-changing-nozzles If it is the regular UM2 Extended, you need this guide (skip to step 3.): https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/252-disassembly

No, it looks something like this: ;CURA_PROFILE_STRING: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

Hey Dan, welcome to the forum. You need to provide your slicing settings in Cura or else it is impossible to see what's up. Either post screenshots or slice and save a .gcode file and then post the profile settings inside the .gcode at the bottom.

Hi Bernie, and welcome to the forum. The marks on the top surface are a "software issue". The printer moves the head over the (pretty) top and leaves a mark. I don't remember how this can be prevented, maybe someone else can chime in. The warping of the piece is a sign that your bed is not leveled properly. Go into the material settings and start the bed leveling wizard again. Make sure that when you are asked to move a sheet of paper between nozzle and bed, you don't push down on that paper because it pushes in turn the bed down a bit. Grab one edge and slide it between nozzle and bed.

I assume many of you use OctoPrint too with this firmware. How is it supposed to work? When I connect with OctoPrint I see the following on the printer's display: Lights go out and the printer freezes. OctoPrint shows the following: I assume OP tries to cache the entire sd card contents and takes quite a while. Sadly I wasn't patient enough to wait for too long, but I did it twice and it "hang" on the same filename in the OP terminal. I guess that's more of a OctoPrint question than firmware related. So sorry for misusing this poor thread yet again...

Thanks Guglielmo, that's a good idea. It is very nice that you can do this kind of stuff on a Mac easily. Oh man, Tinker's firmware is super cool. Not only the display style but also so many convenience features. One can even PID autotune directly from the menu. I'll need to wrap my head around the code, but for now, looking at it from the user perspective it is very very nice. @tinkergnome you rock!

Alright, thanks. I'll try again (from scratch).

About the warnings - you are right, but not ignoring implies understanding the issue - and that I did not. I looked at electronics_test.cpp but since I know very little about the project structure, I couldn't make up what it does other than you know... testing the electronics (ok, maybe communicating with the hardware is involved too). This comment in the header file reinforces my feeling that I can safely ignore it: However, there is still one thing that I don't understand. What is the difference between these two git repos? https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin and https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware Looking at daid's package.sh script, it checks out different repos for different UM2 variants. Tinker's package.sh does not do that but creates firmware versions for different UM2 printers. I am asking because I have finally compiled my own firmware with a modified version of Tinker's package.sh and the first run wizard just tried to crash the heated bed into the print head because it thought I have an UM2+ Extended (with lightning fast reflexes I switched it off before tears where shed.)

I know, I did that too but it fails due to other reasons. It was one of the error scenarios from my previous post (3. Tinkergnome, Arduino 1.6.9). I saw that Tinker did catch some changes in the directory structure with the new Arduino IDE 1.6.9 but it still fails for me...

Ok, I found it. I had spaces in my directory structure (yes I know, if you Unix, then that's stupid). My path was: /Users/stefan/Projects/3D Drucker/Ultimaker/UM2 Firmware/nicolinux/Marlin and the $TARGET from the Makefile (created with "TARGET = $(notdir $(CURDIR))") was: 3D UM2 Marlin Fixed it. Now the firmware compiles but I get these strange warnings (I'll ignore it since it occurs in "electronics_test" and hope it is just a test that fails): [...] CXX Servo.cpp CXX /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/Tone.cpp CXX /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/main.cpp CXX _Ultimaker2/Marlin.elftarget: Marlin_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x2e): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x30): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x32): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x34): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x36): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x38): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x3a): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x3c): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x3e): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x40): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x42): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x44): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x46): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x48): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x4a): warning: internal error: out of range error_Ultimaker2/electronics_test.o:(.progmem.gcc_sw_table+0x4c): warning: internal error: out of range error COPY _Ultimaker2/Marlin.hexAVR Memory Usage----------------Device: atmega2560Program: 134910 bytes (51.5% Full)(.text + .data + .bootloader)Data: 5999 bytes (73.2% Full)(.data + .bss + .noinit) text data bss dec hex filename134614 296 5703 140613 22545 _Ultimaker2/Marlin.elf

Hey guys, Thanks for the help. Sadly it doesn't work for me - compiling fails due to missing files/dirs. I am on a Mac and I have two Arduino IDEs installed. Their respective "Java" directories are: Arduino 1.6.9 - /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java Arduino 1.0.6 - /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java 1. Vanilla UM2Marlin, Arduino 1.6.9 I copied over the package.sh script from @daid. I had to hardcode the Arduino version because the automatic detection doesn't work. After cloning the git sources the script stops with this (sh -x for debug output): + make -j 3 HARDWARE_MOTHERBOARD=7 ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR=/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java ARDUINO_VERSION=169 BUILD_DIR=_UltimakerMarlin_250000 'DEFINES='\''VERSION_BASE="Ultimaker:_15.04.6"'\'' '\''VERSION_PROFILE="250000_single"'\'' BAUDRATE=250000 TEMP_SENSOR_1=0 EXTRUDERS=1'make: *** No rule to make target `_UltimakerMarlin_250000/wiring.o', needed by `_UltimakerMarlin_250000/3D'. Stop. 2. Vanilla UM2Marlin, Arduino 1.0.6 This time it starts compiling but then stops because of a (presumably hardcoded missing directory "UM2"): + make -j 3 HARDWARE_MOTHERBOARD=72 ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR=/Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java ARDUINO_VERSION=106 BUILD_DIR=_Ultimaker2 'DEFINES='\''STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR="Vers:_15.04.6"'\'' TEMP_SENSOR_1=0 EXTRUDERS=1' CC /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring.c CC /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/wiring_analog.c[...] CXX Servo.cpp CXX /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/Tone.cpp CXX /Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java/hardware/arduino/cores/arduino/main.cpp CXX UM2 CXX _Ultimaker2/3D CXX Marlin.elfavr-gcc: avr-gcc: avr-gcc: UM2: No such file or directoryUM2: No such file or directoryUM2: No such file or directory 3. Tinkergnome, Arduino 1.6.9 Used Tinkergnome customized package.sh script and commented out the Arduino detection code to force it to take the latest Arduino version. + make -j 3 HARDWARE_MOTHERBOARD=72 ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR=/Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java ARDUINO_VERSION=169 BUILD_DIR=_Ultimaker2 'DEFINES='\''STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR="Tinker_16.03.1"'\'' TEMP_SENSOR_1=0 EXTRUDERS=1 FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN=30 BABYSTEPPING HEATER_0_MAXTEMP=315 HEATER_1_MAXTEMP=315 HEATER_2_MAXTEMP=315' CC /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/cores/arduino/wiring.c[...] CXX /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/cores/arduino/new.cpp CXX /Applications/Arduino.app/Contents/Java/hardware/arduino/avr/cores/arduino/main.cpp CXX UM2 CXX _Ultimaker2/3D CXX Marlin.elf COPY Marlin.hex/bin/sh: line 0: [: too many arguments+ cp _Ultimaker2/Marlin.hex resources/firmware/Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2-16.03.1.hexcp: _Ultimaker2/Marlin.hex: No such file or directory 4. Tinkergnome, Arduino 1.0.6 Same error as Vanilla UM2Marlin and Arduino 1.6.9 + make -j 3 HARDWARE_MOTHERBOARD=72 ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR=/Applications/Arduino106.app/Contents/Resources/Java ARDUINO_VERSION=106 BUILD_DIR=_Ultimaker2 'DEFINES='\''STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR="Tinker_16.03.1"'\'' TEMP_SENSOR_1=0 EXTRUDERS=1 FILAMENT_SENSOR_PIN=30 BABYSTEPPING HEATER_0_MAXTEMP=315 HEATER_1_MAXTEMP=315 HEATER_2_MAXTEMP=315'make: *** No rule to make target `_Ultimaker2/wiring.o', needed by `_Ultimaker2/3D'. Stop.+ cp _Ultimaker2/Marlin.hex resources/firmware/Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2-16.03.1.hexcp: _Ultimaker2/Marlin.hex: No such file or directory Reminds me why I didn't want to do this in the first place. Programming is fun but package management and dependencies are not :/

Hi, and welcome to the forum. I'll make it short: yep, that's bad. You don't want molten filament there. It looks like filament is leaking somewhere and you'll need to take the head apart to remove the filament. That's not very hard to do. Just make sure you find the source of the leak. Maybe something is not tightened down well enough. Most likely the nozzle.

Ok, now I understand what you mean. I am not aware of such a functionality in Cura. But it is a nice idea for a plugin.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Sure it is possible to print slower. Take a look at the Cura manual: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/16586-basic Also check the "advanced" tab. There you can set different speeds for different movements.

Hi und willkommen im Forum. Teste erstmal ob die Glasplatte an sich schief ist (das hatte ich mal). Einfach auf einer flachen Oberfläche auflegen und mit dem Finger die Ecken abklopfen um zu sehen ob es kippelt. Wenn der Drucker an sich schief ist und etwas kippelt, dann ist das eigentlich kein Problem und sollte die Druckqualität nicht beeinflussen. Wenn das Heizbett allerdings schief hängt, dann könnte das mehrere Ursachen haben: die zwei dicken glatten Stangen sind verbogen (oder eine davon) die lange z-schraube ist schief das Gehäuse ist so stark verzogen so dass die glatten Stangen schief stehen Mir fällt leider keine einfache Möglichkeit ein wie man das mit wenig Aufwand testen/beheben kann. Ich habe bei mir die Linearkugellager ausgetauscht und musste das Heizbett komplett ausbauen (Kabel habe ich dran gelassen). Als die glatten Stangen und der z-motor draussen waren, habe ich alle Schrauben am Gehäuse (seitlich, aussen) gelockert und mehr oder weniger leicht auf dem Gehäuse rumgedrückt. Danach die glatten Stangen eingebaut, die Linearkugellager justiert und den z-motor eingebaut. Danach hat das Gehäuse nicht mehr gekippelt. Schau dir auf jeden Fall das Montagehandbuch vom UM2 an: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/um2%20assembly%20manual%20V1.1%20_english.pdf

Hey guys, Sorry for hijacking this thread. I'd like to understand how the UM2 firmware works and thought that if I'am gonna do it, why not start with TinkerGnome's branch and maybe fix something in the process (or break something else badly ). @TinkerGnome: Where do I find the source code for the UM2+ branch? The repo here contains only the .hex files and two empty source archives: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Marlin_UM2plus And maybe you have a pointer or two about how to setup the toolchain. I am on a Mac (10.11.4). thx

I knew about the influence of the heating algorithm (pid vs. bangbang) but I didn't think it would influence the quality that much. Since the printer is able to produce superb quality just by switching off the heated bed (or changing the heating algorithm in firmware), at least we can say that the issue is non mechanical but software/firmware related.

Hi and welcome to the forums. If you like to apply for the reseller programme, take a look at the reseller page. There is a link at the top right where you can join: https://ultimaker.com/en/resellers If you need more informations or need to talk about a custom business partnership, I suggest to contact Ultimaker directly: https://ultimaker.com/en/contact

Hi and welcome to the community. I don't remember the exact details, but in x/y direction (left/right), it shouldn't be less than 0.5mm. In z direction it can be as low as the layer height you print with (0.1mm is pretty fine and you can go lower but it takes ages to finish).

Hi and welcome to the forums. You don't really convert an .obj file to .gcode. A Gcode file is nothing like a 3D object but a long text file containing movement and extrusion information for the printer. Your .obj file has some errors. Maybe that's the reason Cura did not display it correctly. Check out Netfabb Basic. This is a free tool that's very useful for repairing .stl and .obj files: http://www.netfabb.com/basic.php

That's overkill... I am not printing with ABS so I won't use a build chamber only for that. I guess I'll need to switch to the @TinkerGnome firmware.

I do the same, although I don't like your metaphor. How about "wiping the schnozzle"?

DAMN it is the heated bed!!! Check this out: White is old and has perfect smooth walls. Red and Teal are new and have shitty walls. On the left printed with heated bed on (bad quality). On the right printed with bed OFF and has perfect smooth walls. I still don't know how to solve it yet, but at least I know what was causing it... I upgraded the UM2 to an UM2+ with the +Kit. Firmware is the latest stable: 15.04.5. Recapitulating - you don't need fancy (and expensive) new linear bearings and smooth shafts from Misumi. The stock ones in the UM2 are fine. You don't need a new z-nut either. My new one has a bit of play (up/down) but this does not influence quality at all (with the heated bed off...). And one more thing. I disassembled the z-stage again because I thought the issue was mechanical. While doing it, I also loosened all screws that hold together the frame. I then pushed (more or less gently) on the frame from all directions and now the frame is square. The printer does not wobble anymore. However, without the z-screw which is attached to the z-motor, the bed slides up and down very smoothly. But as soon as I attach the z-motor the bed doesn't move smooth at all and won't move down past a certain point. I have to exert quite some force to move it to the bottom. I can lift the entire printer just by grabbing the bed when it is at the bottom. @neotko suggested to loosen the screws on the z-motor and wiggle the bed up and down while tightening the screws back one by one - but it didn't help. The z-motor is moving the bed up/down fine, but I still suspect there's something up. But whatever it is, it does not have any impact on the print quality. If anyone wants to give the stretchlet a go - here is the .gcode file. Takes around 25 minutes @ 50mm/s, 230°, 0.2 layer height and uses spiralize, 0.4mm nozzle. https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vlk55g7kyo781p/stretchlet_banding_test.gcode.zip?dl=0