Nicolinux

Ach.. Ich habe "I"glase gelesen und habe es nicht mit T-Glase in Verbindung gebracht Wie gesagt, ich hab T-Glase hier habs aber nicht großartig getestet. Ich denke nicht dass du mit dem Filament was kaputt machst. Nutze einfach eine andere Nozzle und dann wird es passen.

Hi, Just wanted to ask if any of you (still) play games these days. Would be nice to play with some of you. We have even a Steam Group! Right now I am playing Destiny on the PS4. I am Nicolinux on most gaming platforms. See you there (if you like).

Hi, das hört sich interessant an. Hast du zufällig einen Link zu Iglass? Mit PLA ist mir das nicht bekannt, ausser mit einer sehr dicken Düse (0.8 oder 1.0) zu drucken. Es gibt dazu noch XTC-3D welches Taulman hier verwendet um sein Filament T-Glase noch klarer zu machen. Vielleicht funktioniert es auch gut mit PLA. Ich habe es hier aber kam noch nicht dazu es zu testen.

Hi, Thanks for the info and sorry for the trouble. I informed Ultimaker and expect them to act soon. Which platform do you use? Windows, Mac or Linux?

Hi, auf Anhieb fällt mir keine direkte Ursache ein ausser "Zufall". Das Heizbett ist relativ einfach aufgebaut. Aber vielleicht ist der Temperatursensor und nicht die Heizplatte kaputt oder hat einen Wackelkontakt. Schließe den Drucker an einen Rechner an und starte das Tool "Pronterface" (oder Printrun für die Mac Version). Dann verbinde dich mit dem Drucker und achte auf die Temperaturkurve für das Heizbett. Dann wackle vorsichtig hinten am Heizbett wo die Kabel angebracht sind. Wenn das nichts bringt, könntest du auch unten die Board-Abdeckung abnehmen und den Temperatursensor vom Heizbett überprüfen.

Oh I get it. Yep, these little suckers made me swear a few times before...

Why are the board spacers in two pieces? Shouldn't be. You could print a proper one yourself any time

It looks like Cura confused your machines and tries to control it like a cartesian printer. I'd suggest to delete the Delta from Cura and add it again. Or maybe you just forgot to switch to the delta when you started the print and the UM2 was selected.

Hi, these setting is problematic and should not be set to 0 Initial layer thickness: 0.0 Could you take a photo from the side. Are there gaps too?

Hi, welcome to the forum. You can add a new machine in Cura (the Rostock Max) and switch between the two when you slice objects. In Cura select "Add new machine" from the "Machine" menu. Then follow the wizard to add the Rostock Max.

Hi, welcome to the forum. It depends on the model. If it is flat and wide then it should probably stick. But I wouldn't turn off the bed completely. Then it is guaranteed to shift. You could use the "TweakatZ" Cura plugin to change the temp after 8mm height. Turn the temp gradually from 60° down and see where it starts to become problematic.

Weird, I have the same garbled screen when I turn on the printer, but it goes away and the printer works perfectly. I assumed it was just a harmless boot-display-firmware-glitch. I think it is the same for you but after the firmware goes to the next step in the boot-up process, it hits a problem and halts. If it is not something else externally (bad wall socket, power supply, damaged power supply cable), then maybe the board died. Where did you buy the printer?

Uhh I am sensing a "Movember"-style contest. If the others are up to it, I am in!

I even beat the Sander-Beard... but although peer feedback was great (e.g. ladies), one morning I decided to remove it because I wanted to look like 27 again

Hi and welcome to the forums. Does the display show something when the printer stops? Something like "Error Stopped Temp Sensor"? If that's the case, check first it the metallic fan shroud does not touch the nozzle. This puts extra stress on the heater and might trigger a temperature failsafe mechanism in the firmware. If that's not the case, check for any loose wires at the bottom of the printer. You can take off the board cover, it is held in place by two screws at the bottom.

Alright, thanks!

I wonder... this feature was needed by many so why aren't there any workflows in place to simplify it. Something like a digital mold from an existing object.

Freezer is a good idea. That's how I got a flat object off the glass. And if everything fails you can always put it in very hot water. You will most likely destroy the print but at least you'll save the glass plate.

This might be an OctoPrint issue. Take a look at the OctoPrint system logs on your device (Raspberry Pi I guess). Should be in the home dir where you put OctoPrint.

No problem, I'll hang around and wait for it

I think I understand what you mean. Something like this?

The WedgeGripperUltiBot!!! Could you share the source file? (.stp if possible).

Hey wayit, if you modify the hand to fit 2.85mm filament in there, then it could be used to "park" the filament after you have removed it manually (because if you let it go half the roll might unroll).

Haha, very very cool!

Alright, I have quite some spare time and I'll use it to spam this contest with "useful" entries [print=3424][/print]