Nicolinux

Hopefully you've had a little less reality than I did

Hm, that's really hard to say. But since you have an UM2+, do change the nozzle and print again. If it happens again, you could exclude the nozzle from the list of possible causes.

Alright, mom needed help so I stepped in. A shelf pin disappeared and rendered a kitchen cabinet partially useless. I thought, pffft. this little sucker, _of course_ I can print it! Measured it and created a 3D model. I thought it would be easy but I had a hard time with the supporting area (stupid boleans are stupid sometimes). And then I went on and added a filet here, a little touch there to make it nice™ But reality is a bitch sometimes Ok in the end played a bit with orientation and support and got this. Not super pretty but it will do.

Hi, hatte auch einen Bowden von Carl und keine Probleme damit. Vielleicht hast du ein Montagsmodell erwischt. Frag ihn doch mal an.

It looks like it is always on the same height, that's why I'd suspect the z-stage.

Hi, I assume there is something up with the z-stage. Take a closer look at the long screw that moves the heated bed up/down. Maybe something got stuck in there. It might be a good idea to clean the screw and then apply a bit of the green grease that comes with the printer. Move the heated bed up/down a few times and listen/watch for any new clues.

Hi, I don't know if it depends on the nozzle too. If you print wit different nozzles, but at the same layer height (within the boundaries of what's possible), I would guess there should not be any differences. Check out the latest blog post. The last paragraph talks about tolerances for holes: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/20113-3-design-tips-for-fdm-3d-printing

Well I did set P, I and D to 0 first and it still aborts. It does so while the temp rises well over the target temperature.

I tried auto tune at 150, 200 and 210. And it aborted every time. So it must be something else. I did take the values that came with the +. On my printer these are: M301 P10.03 I1.50 D70.00

Yep. I thought that's the syntax: M303 S C

Here is an update. After installing the Extrusion Upgrade Kit I am unable to perform the PID-Autotune anymore. It aborts again with temp. too high - even if I set PID to 0...

Damn, I was hoping it was the other cosplayer (canceling OKC search)

Meshmixer kann super viel, ist aber nicht ganz einfach zu bedienen... Hier ist das Handbuch: http://www.mmmanual.com/

@neotko: Good tip about PID-Autotuning at the most used temp... I didn't think of it...

Ok, dann bleibt die Möglichkeit Support manuell mit Meshmixer anzulegen.

Hi, Were you able to witness such a restart? What does the printer do? Do the lights go out and then it starts again? Does the startup-animation play on the screen? If yes, I'd suspect a loose cable somewhere.

Hi, I'll respond in Germany since you are from Germany. Schau dir mal den Drucker genau an wenn der anfängt zu drucken. Sind irgendwelche Geräusche zu hören hinten an der Filament-Führung? Es kann sein dass sich dort etwas verhakt hat und das Filament kommt nicht weiter. Du kannst im Menü am Gerät die Düse auf z.B. 230° heizen und dann hinten am "Feeder" den seitlichen Hebel anheben und das Filament heraus ziehen oder drücken. Vielleicht ist das Filament angefressen und wird nicht weiter transportiert.

Did you follow these steps? https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18625-solved-um2-pid-autotune-failed#featured 150 was the temperature that I have chosen to run the PID-Autotune.

Hey who said that replacing a fridge handle can't be useful _and_ fun (left original .stl, right the finished fridge handle) [print=3294][/print]

Ok, this indicates that the temp sensor is not accurate. You could perform PID-Autotuning next: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18625-solved-um2-pid-autotune-failed

You can measure the filament to be sure. Ok, next I would check the temperature. This is somewhat hard to do if you don't have an adequate thermometer. You could try the "water boiling test". Heat up to 90°. put a drop of water on a flat surface and carefully let it touch the nozzle. If you see small bubbles moving up then it means the temperature more or less fine. This is not an accurate test - by far, but better than nothing without a thermometer.

Hi, This looks like good old under-extrusion. Here some ideas: temperature readings are incorrect and filament can't extrude properly partially clogged nozzle filament diameter inconsistent What did you try so far (so we can rule out some things first)?

Hi Kevin, it could be both. Check for loose cables at the back of the heated bed. Also take off the cover at the bottom of the printer (it is held in place by two screws) and inspect the board for any loose or broken connections.